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S30TRBO

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Posts posted by S30TRBO

  1. Just picked up a set of NISMO 550cc injectors for $500... I also picked up the Walbro GSL392 for $100.

     

    Does anyone know where I can get -6 AN barbed fuel fittings? I just got my Aeromotive FPR from Summit and it has no barbed fittings either....

  2. Well I ordered my cam through Ron at Isky yesterday. He was very helpful, nice guy and had some great stories too.

     

    Here are the specs:

     

    *Custom Ground

    *Lift 490 intake, Lift 480 exhaust

    *290 intake duration, 280 exhaust duration

    *1/14 lobe center ??

     

    He said this cam will keep overlap down, help increase throttle response, and assist in my quest for no turbo lag. Other than that I'm stoked. I'm also getting springs,retainers and lash pads from him. So the only thing I need is new Nissan rocker arms.

     

    He did have a great story on port matching if anyone wants to hear it, not long.

  3. If I were you, I would get a $7 can of engine paint and call it a day. I wouldn't want the stress of chipping the powdercoat on installation. With paint, it's easier to touch up in the long run.

     

     

    I think your right. However, I do plan on getting the valve cover, lower alternator bracket and diff coated to match my suspension.

     

    I just **** $2000 at MSA so I'm not feeling the $600-$800 powdercoat job. Plus I would hate for something to happen to the block then all that money will be wasted.

  4. Its very difficult to advise someone else specifically on wheel fit unless you are familiar with their car and the wheels. You can't go wrong by measuring what backspace will clear everything and then projecting the various widths you have in mind to see if they clear.

     

    Forget measuring offset for that purpose' date=' [b']backspace[/b] is the important one.

     

    I've seen two cars apparently the same involving identical wheels where one fits and the other doesn't. Inexplicable but true :)

     

     

    Well I had these 16x7 0 offset 16x8 0 offset with 225/50 245-45 on my 240Z on a loan type trial from my friend. Now without my coil-overs it would be close if not impossible to make those work.

     

    DSCN0859.JPG

     

    Joji said he was going to call RS Watanabe and see what offset will work on my stock fender, none flair 240Z. He should be calling me back with an answer today.

  5. Here are my choices:

     

    For the fronts will 16x8.0†zero offset work? I have fitted 16x7 Epsilons with 225-50-16 with no issue.

     

     

    and for the rear here are my choices:

     

    16x8.5†-6 offset

     

    16x9.0†-13 offset

     

    16x9.5†-19 offset

     

     

    I don't plan on running flares, the fenders and quarters are stock 240Z.

     

    Does anyone have any insight on this??

  6. I had the same idea for my 1979 810 Hardtop. The 810 L-series block has a front sump oil pan (like the RB’s) so that would remedy the usual problem concern with the crossmember interference. In addition the battery location and the air intake location in the engine compartment is the same between the 810 and the Skyline

     

    I decided not to for several reasons. First' date=' there is just no room on the 810 for a front mounted intercooler so you either have to use the stock side mounted R32 Skyline intercooler, or use the non-turbo RB25DE engine. Also, I was not sure that the RB air intake tube (that passes over the valve cover) would not rub the 810 hood. Cost was a major concern as well.

     

    I elected to go with a 3.0 liter modified (re-drilled oil passages) L28 block in my 810. I had a just obtained a free 280Z engine with the N42 head and I had a spare diesel crank, 9mm 240Z rods and a set of new LZ22 pistons.[/quote']

     

     

    zcarnut,

     

    Do you have any pictures of your 810? I just completed the auto to manual conversion yesterday. The motor swap will start today. I also added Koni/cut springs on front and Bilstein/Quickor (280ZX) on the rear. I'll take some pictures today of how low she is. You, I and sblake01 from classiczcars are the only ones I know who have 810 coupe. What is your vin#?

  7. I guess you are past the trust kit' date=' but couldn't you have spliced in another U joint and relocated the steering rod for clearance?

     

    running that setup would be really rare and I'm guessing really powerful too.[/quote']

     

     

    Yea, I could modify the stock steering but I don't to mess with the geometry. The setup I will be doing now will be just as, if not more powerful then the twin turbo kit.

  8. Forged slugs good' date=' but prefer Arias. CR 8.5:1. Swaintech coat dome and skirts. O-ring block. Need ECU with more cells...Motec, especially at high boost. If Tec3 then use crank trigger. Add cam trigger for sequential inj. (Anyone on list fabbed?) TIAL wastegate at least 37 mm. 3" exh with Dynomax.

    I had no luck with that cam....not for street, had 3" Hg vac at idle at soggy below 3500, but have 3.5 cc unshroud from each chamber. Even tried 260° durn and got only 9 " Hg. HP down also. Have data if interested. Got 435 RWHP on my DynoJet at 20 psi boost with Racer Brown 246/226 @ 0.050 grind. Ask Frank at Schneider about that profile as I'm sure he has it from when I had my bumps repair welded.[/quote']

     

    dapiper,

     

    Thanks for the reply, your horsepower levels are right where I want to be. Can you post or PM your specs? I have read up on Swain Coating is it really worth it in your experience? What exactly is O-ringing the block, this is my first build up? What are your thoughts on Isky or go Schneider all the way?

     

     

    BTW I will be using TEC 3.

     

    Regards,

  9. I dropped off my valve cover and misc engine pieces to my powder coater. He asked me what are you doing to the block? I said I don't know just paint it black "like factory turbos came" and clear it. He said why don't we powder coat the block, pan and front cover? I said hmmm....

     

    I talked with my machinist and asked his opinion and he said let me ask around and get back with me in a couple days. He thought it would trap heat and I said my powder coater said it dissipates heat.

     

    I just got off the phone with him and he asked on the Chevelle forum and they had 2 or 3 motors done and didn't have any problems i.e. bores warping since the parts have to be baked up to 400-450 degrees.

     

    Has anyone had this done?

     

    This is the color of my suspension and the valve cover is getting coated the same way except for the lettering and trim, regardless if I get the block done or not.

     

    f61ad20e.jpg

     

     

    My machinist is going to ask around some more and said call me back on Friday. He also mentioned if we did it how would the logistics work. I asked is it better to get it coated first then bring it back for boring,honing, decking or vise versa. Also moving it around the machine shop what are the chances if something happens even though the finish is not glossy. I told him I'm getting a textured finish so it won't scratch very easy.

     

    My powder coater quoted me $600-$800 to do the block, pan, front cover ,valve cover and some brackets. My machinist said that he has had lots of painted blocks and knows of a guy that he did his motor for and he is a painter and said he might be able to paint and clear mine for $100-$200, but didn't know for sure. He said this guys block (the painter) was painted 10 years ago and still looks great.

     

     

    I wonder if it's a waste of money. I'm debating because I can use the money else ware towards....I don't know a set of these maybe:

     

     

    mumei.1.jpg

    16x7/16x8 RS Watanabe

  10. You bastard! You are the devil incarnate!

     

    Now I know how Ian feels when I danlge tidbits I find on E-Bay in front of him all the time!

     

    You are not in collusion with Ian to stop me from this tendency' date=' are you? LOL

     

    Right now, I am in Venezuela, and up to my ankles in funeral trip debt, and nephew graduation trip debt, so no goodies for Tony until I get some of it knocked down to a managable level...

     

    Good luck on the auction, though, that is a nice piece, and would look good in the 71, 75, or 78 RHD vehicle..... Muahahaha!

     

    Why on earth did you sell the Box? I would have lost nuts to keep that. And my friend working in Aberdeen right now would have probably traded you his three Z's and his girlfriend as well as ex wife for that car!

     

    Now I have to "cut and paste" you post into an e-mail and send it to him to let him know a Box Skyline was in Md, and he didn't even know about it!

     

    LOL[/quote']

     

     

    3 days 8 hours left, just think you can pay for it and everything through the Internet and it could be waiting at home, wow what a pleasant surprise that would be

     

    Ok a little more temptation: :)

     

    10_3.JPG

     

    I sold the box because we were building a house and I needed the funds for the "extras" that the wife wanted. I know it was a big mistake and I regret it dearly. I sold it to a guy named Tom in Killeen Texas (71hakosuka on zcar.com). I have tried contacting him many times and he has never replied. However, I did find a car domain page and it seems that he is restoring it completely. http://www.cardomain.com/id/71hakosuka

     

    Here is a pic of her before the flat bed came and took her away from Andrews AFB.

     

    joes-sky-1.jpg

     

    I got back to the states from Okinawa in 1998 after 4.5 years and unfortunately sold it in 2000. The good news is that I have some contacts that can get me a 2 door box for around $15K. So one day I may have one again. stupid,stupid.

  11. 400 RWHP? Now we're talking turbo cams' date=' not NA. In which case stock is fine.

     

    Another innovator Tony left out of his dissertation is Don Potter, builder of Frank Leary's "Giant Killer" turbo Z's that regularly beat Electramotive and BRE back in the day. Sadly, Frank was killed a few years ago in a private plane crash as he and Don were beginning to discuss restoring Frank's car for vintage racing. Potter, who was on a first name basis with Ed Iskederian and Harvey Crane, has forgotten more about L series cams than either of those guys. Don's also the one who took over FAR performance from Dolf Von Kersten (sp?) and turned it into D.L.Potter Engineering. However, I'm not sure Don is in business anymore.

     

    Tony is right when he hints that most aftermarket L series cams are copies of copies of somebody's mod to an original BMW grind. I'm a Sunbelt fan myself, because I know they've done the most recent original development.[/quote']

     

    katman,

    Thanks for the reply. Yes thats the horsepower I'm shooting for, if I get more great....

     

    Here are my plans in case you missed my other thread:

     

    *L28ET (don't know how much over bore I need as of yet)

    *Forged Wiseco Pistons

    *Race Prepped 240Z Rods

    *Port and Polish P90 Head

    *Ferrera Valves

    *RC 550cc Injectors

    *Walboro Fuel Pump

    *Custom S/S Intake Manifold w/ Q45 T/B

    *Custom S/S Exhaust Manifold

    *Precision GT Turbo (no specs as of yet)

    *Custom Intercooler

    *Oil Cooler

    *R200 3.9 Clutch Type LSD (From a Nissan Skyline)

    *'82 5 Speed

    *TEC 3

     

    This is just a start for now, lots of other misc parts still to come.

  12. I will chime in and say that Isky is probably one of the few originators of the Assymetric Cam grind for the Datsun developed by Ron Iskendarian when he returned from the service and started working on R&D in conjunction with E'motive team at the time.

    The others would be Racer Brown' date=' and from what I uderstand now, Sunbelt.

     

    Most Z-Car cam grinds are simple copies of the original Billets Isky ground in the early seventies, which were based on BMW Cams, and were not a real "priority" for the company at the time. Rons uncle took something that looked like it would work, ground it, it performed decently, and it went from there until Ron came back from the service, with his engineering degree, and started working in earnest on the cams for E'motive. Nissan was at the time as secretive about their assymetric grinds and they are today, and even to top competitors in the field of racing was not forthcoming with information on why the cam was ground the way it was. Ron had to work backwards on his own to figure it all out.

     

    For the money, I would talk with Ron, tell him what you want, and they will grind it for you on proper billet, with proper profile, for a reasonable cost.

     

    The stock of Racer Brown is in the hands of JWT (Jim Wolf Technology) and are excellent cams. Racer Brown was another engineer (see a pattern here) that could actually explain WHY he ground his cams the way he did, and not just say "we did a bunch and this is what worked the best for us"...

     

    When Isky and Racer Brown ground an experimental cam, they knew what they were doing beforehand.

     

    They were the innovators, not the immitators. Many times you can bring a cam into Ron and Isky, and he can profile it, and tell you if it is a generational knockoff of one of their original BMW grinds.

     

    Sunbelt seems to be the latest group of people with a cam machine that have "rediscovered" what Racer Brown knew in the 70's, and what Ron Iskendarian reverse-engineered and knew in the 80's... They are doing things with lower vavlespring pressures due to proprietary assymetrical ramp designs from what I understand.

     

    I'm not saying anything bad about Schneider mind you, I'm just stating some facts about Nissan Cam Development.

     

    For the money on an N/A engine, I would buy and old Racer Brown Cam, or one from Isky. For a turbo, since the development work Ron did was 10 years more advanced from what RB did in the 70's, I would go with an Isky, hands down. RB did have some turbo cams... But I think the Isky will work just fine given IMO more development time with better turbos and not the stuff available when the first units were out there (580HP at 20.6 psi on a .040 280 engine at 7500 rpms ain't all that bad!)

     

    Ron at Isky will tell you all you could ever want to know about a cam, and same for Jim Wolf. Both those guys know their stuff.

     

    From what I have seen, Schneider sells because it's inexpensive, and performs decently. For the small outlay of the camshaft proper (the big cost is in the lash pads, springs, and new rockers) I myself would spend the extra $5 (Last Isky Cam I know that was bought was $180 on a CUSTOM GRIND L7/L9 split configuration timed per customer specs.) and get the billett from Isky.

     

    BTW I have an Isky cam in my turbo Corvair, too! Now you know [i']why[/i]!

     

     

    Tony,

     

    That was some great reading. I think I will give Ron a call and for the heck of it call Sunbelt too.

     

    P.S. You wouldn't be interested in my Twin Turbo Kit for one of your RHD Z? I've got that plus 36 other parts up on EBay now..

     

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7973765319&category=33742

     

    http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZ240ztt

     

     

    Thanks,

  13. What is your desired HP? What will the car be for?

     

     

    Isk

     

    Isk,

    400RWHP. For now my 240Z will be used primarily on the street with an occasional trip to the drag racing track. Our local Z club from time to time has sanctioned Auto Cross events that I would like to test the Z performance at.

  14. Your choice between a fuel cell and a surge tank depends on what you intend to do with the car. If you plan on doing any type of sanctioned competition I strongly recommend a fuel cell for safety reasons. It also helps when trying to get a highly modified car through tech inspection.

     

    If its a street car then the surge tank is a cheaper' date=' easier solution. Just make sure the plumbing is well thought out because you're adding some significant points of failure into your fuel system.

     

    Regarding keeping the tank 1/4 full: when I autocrossed my 240Z with the stock fuel tank I could run it down to 1.5 gallons and still not have fuel starvation problems.[/quote']

     

    Thanks John. For now my 240Z will be used primarily on the street with an occasional trip to the drag racing track. Our local Z club from time to time has sanctioned Auto Cross events that I would like to test the Z performance at.

     

    Do you run 1 fuel pump? I'm wondering if one on either side of the lines would help keep constant pressure on the system, or would one be plenty and do the job?

  15. I have been reading about camshafts on and off all weekend long. For my target horsepower would I be better going with one of there off the shelf cams or a custom ground? I'm not that versed on cams where I would know how to figure out what custom ground unless the ones they carry won't help me reach my horsepower goal.

     

    Any recommendations on either one? Or is there another manufacturer out there (i.e. Web Cams, Crane) that will help me better than the two I listed?

     

    http://iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/2004-05/page176.pdf

     

    http://www.schneidercams.com/cams/50.htm

     

    Thanks,

  16. I have done some research and from what I've read when converting a 240Z to EFI you need to build a surge tank or swap in a fuel cell.

     

    Something interesting I read on this board was that someone said all you have to do is keep a 1/4 tank of fuel in the tank all the time. Is this a fair statement?

     

     

    Also while on the subject of fuel is it recommended to place only 1 electric fuel pump outside of the tank after an inline fuel filter? I heard of people running 2 pumps (240Z Turbo), is this a upgrade or a necessity? Is it common to run them in tandem or 1 on the main line and 1 on the return? Do I want to run an additional pump on the return line? Overkill??

     

    I plan on running RC 550CC injectors, 1 electric fuel pump, 2 inline fuel filters, 1 AFPR. My target horsepower is 400RWHP. I'm still trying to track down the injector size to horsepower calculator, I'm wondering if 550cc are going to be big enough, any other recommendations? I haven't purchased anything on the fuel side yet..

  17. Yea' date=' don't buy that car...it sucks!

    Joe, I saw you listed a GT turbo from Precision? Call me for a good price on a new GT turbo.

     

    Joe,

    If compression permits ditch the P90 and opt for an E88 or N42 head. Contact TimZ for details on the shop that did his head. 225cfm on the intake ports and he can also help you with a good cam selection. Remember, his car is ~525hp@wheels on 94 octane @23psi.

    James[/quote']

     

    James,

     

    Good to hear from you. Yea that car sucks and the paint is different colors. Remember when you got it painted and I pointed out that the doors were different from the body, *lol* a lot has happened with ol' yellow lightening since. Is it still for sale? How is the RB26DETT AWD S13 coming?

     

    I'm using the Nissan L6 Engine Builder as my guide from http://www.zcarclub.com.au/pages/lseries.htm From what I've been told it's a great tool to use.

     

    With the P90, HKS 2mm, Flat tops with no over bore C/R is 7.99:1

    With the P90, HKS 2mm, Flat tops with .020 over bore C/R is 8.07:1

    With the P90, HKS 2mm, Flat tops with .040 over bore C/R is 8.16:1

     

    I still don't know what my over bore will be but I heard the standard is between 20 and 40 over.

     

     

    Everywhere I have read and searched and the shop that is handling my fabrication says turbo compression 8.00:1 - 8.5:1 is ideal, anything lower than 8.00:1 you need a serious turbo to get you going. Is this a fair statement?

     

    I plan on having full boost at 3500rpm and I would like to have 400RWHP at a minimum is this feasible with my current plans?

     

    Thanks for the insight, I'll call you up to b.s. later after I get caught up at work.

  18.  

     

    Your kidding, why would I want his Z? No offence to James but I would rather build my own instead of buying something that someone else did. There are things anyone would want to do different. I think it's more about pride in ownership and knowing that "you" built it and not something that someone else built and you claiming it's glory.

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