Z24O
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Posts posted by Z24O
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check for leaks everywhere very closely.
Make sure the calipers are installed such that the bleed screws are pointed up.
thanks guys
bleed screws upwards
240z m/c was too small(not enough volume of fluid to operate the calipers) as the pedal was dangerously close to the floor with new pads...would run out of travel when pads wore....i know this for a fact as it happened on another like conversion(these twin pot calipers are off a 4000lb car operating 330mm discs)
the main question or clue is why is there resistance on the pedal until the engine is started(vacuum assisted)
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is it possible that the one way vacuum valve [installed inline with the vacuum line from the intake manifold to the vacuum booster-vacuum must flow from intake to booster'] is either missing or installed backwards?
thanks guys
booster worked fine before
have drums on rear
have right m/c
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hi guys,
just finished a search with no luck
i have just upgraded my front brakes to larger calipers and ventilated discs so as suggested i fitted the larger 15/16 master cylinder off a 280zx(rebuilt)
i bench bled the master cylinder before installing it then bled up the brakes
the pedal seemed reasonable-resistance from 1/4 to 1/2 on depressing-however upon starting the engine the pedal went from go to whoa without any hint of resistance
i checked that fluid was still being pushed through the calipers and it was with no apparent air
anyone got any ideas as to what the problem could be??
paul
ps i checked the rod depth into the master cylinder by measurement and it seemed ok
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see link above ....i bet this makes you stateside guys cry....we've got rb30's a plenty over here(australia) they are worth pittance,lots of guys use them as boat anchors ,lol.
....must be the only performance part we have cheaper over here!!
paul
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interesting
so what's the rule of thumb for sizing converters for turbo cars,i posed this question some time ago and got no joy
i have a 240z with a jatco 3speed+overdrive behind an rb30et,looking to get the motor on boost asap off the line,currently running a manual and see very little boost in first gear(too low?,not enough load?) about 7psi in second then 14psi in the top 3
paul
ps sorry to hijack your thread
Matt' date='That is sort of a misconception for this application. You can go as low as 3K on the stall for the 8" converter. Just ask John T as he runs this setup on his street car. The converter will only stall when sufficient torque is applied and the RB makes no torque until the turbo comes alive. That is part of the difficulty in properly sizing a converter for a turbo application.
A v8 is another story since they make lots of torque at the lower rpms. Bottom line is that you can have a very streetable turbo car using an automatic and 8" converter. Driving around and part throttle will not cause the converter to stall as that only happens when sufficient torque is applied. BTW, I ran around for 1 year with the PG and 3700rpm stall with no issues and my original 4N71B auto used a converter that had a 5700rpm stall. The converter wouldn't slip just cruising, but when I laid into the throttle it did stall and the turbo came alive very quickly.
Another thing to consider is that because the Z car is so light it does not create as much load as does a heavier car.[/quote']
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hi
the guy i got the motor off bought the bellhousing from the states at a cost of $1500!!!,custom HD clutch was another $600,and the box (r154)was new from japan and was $1500 with shifter......the whole lot has done less than 1000km
i am selling the lot for $2500 in australia if anyones interested
not sure about the celica box/bellhousing,it was in the car when i got it
as i mentioned this box has taken some real punishment since mid 80's and still drives like new....a testimony to the strength of toyota gearboxes,the r154 i'd imagine would be even stronger with ratios to suit Z/v8
regards
paul
hello' date='i was wondering how you bolted the celica trans to the 302?
is there a company that makes the proper bell housing?
i was looking into the supra r154 trans behind a 302/5.0 injected
any info would be great thanks![/quote']
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that would be appreciated
Tad bit grainy at the expense of size...but I can upload a clean image to photobucket if you like....
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thanks for that
I am just doing a N/A conversion so the gearbox should be ok for that (hopfully)
Ash
hi ash
if you want to be sure get the turbo vl mx7 box(make sure you get that starter too)...they are pretty strong
why are you avoiding the rb25 box,there would be quite a few around i would think....? cost,i have heard they are better than even the mx7 and obviously perfectly suited ratios for your application
you may want to look here for lots of info http://www.calaisturbo.com.au
good luck
paul
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Some non turbo shafts are u-joint type. These will not interchange with CV type shafts without also changing the companion flanges. All ZX axles are 25 spline and companion flanges will interchange. I don't know if the 240 axles are the same 25 spilne as the ZX's.
all early 260 and 240z rear-ends are 25 spline companion flange on the r180(the turbo 280zx splines are the same as the 240's) i beleive,the later 260z's were 27 spline
so apart from cv's vs unis....what are the differences between turbo and non turbo 280zx halfshafts?
some 280zx non turbos came out with cv halfshafts....at least i have seen them in australia...ARE THESE DIFFERENT IN ANY WAY TO THE TURBO ONES
cheers
paul
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Darrel' date='
You forgot the 280zxs have R180 also and those axles will not work. The axles must come from 280zxs with R200 and non turbo. However I've seen late model, non turbo 280ZXs with R200 and CV axles.[/quote']
what's the difference between the 280zx turbo and non-turbo halfshafts?
a knowledgeable member on this forum assured me the 280zxt ones he sold me would work for r200/240z with 240 stub axles with the 280zxt companion flanges....can anyone confirm this WON'T work?
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Hey mate
Currently ive got the engine mounted and tranny mounted but i still have to build the motor. Im planning on going with afr heads and im aiming at 400bhp. im also useing a ba xr8 5speed. It will be street legal. I havent given much thought yet about what im going to do with the suspension or brakes yet. I have a 5week holiday coming up and hopefully i can get alot of work done over this winter break.
btw: your car looks awesome have you got more pics?
-how many zeds do you have' date=' whats the set up like on your rb30 zed?
-Have you had any problems running the lpg with a manual box (backfireing etc)?
Cheers[/quote'] i've got 3x240z
silver one's got the boss n/a 302 and celica steel case 5 speed currently.....i've got the 302 turbo to go in(bought it off a guy that had it in a 260 2+2 with a single turbo on it....i've got a couple of bb turbos off the rb25 skylines as well as the twin gra gas set up)it's got the latest supra 5 speed behind it but i'm going auto(probably AOD)
black ones got an rb30et...wolf 3d,fmic,T3,bosch 044,etc....with the vl turbo 5 speed....also got a strengthened jatco and high stall to go in....i'm over manuals,you are reaching for gears too quickly when it's on boost
the other one is standard but needs a resto or an injection of horsepower!!
any increase in horsepower needs better brakes,mainly front(i have used vented dba rotors ala valiant redrilled for datsun 4 stud with alloy calipers,as well as vt commodore with redrilled calipers/discs on the silver one....need 15"wheels
i have r31 skyline discs on the back mainly in case i sheer a stub axle so the wheel doesn't fly off!!
i'm in the process of putting an r200 quaife lsd behind the V8....haven't decided on a ratio yet
also looking at stiffening the chassis on that car....not sure which way to go there yet....ANYONE GOT ANY SUGGESTIONS?
send me your email addy and i'll send you some pics
regards
paul
trying to decide whether to get a nissan r32 gtr and sell my rb30et z atm??
also just bought a mexico short block in case the turbo one grenades over 500hp,lol
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hi mike,
got your email and will be in touch
regards your fuel pump dilemma.....i wouldn't skimp as lack of fuel pressure/flow at the wrong time will cost you big bucks(melted pistons or holes in them)
i would recommend the bosch 044 with a surge tank
i would also look on the forum about the wiring to the fuel pump mod for z's as they can suffer from voltage drop which can really mess with advertised flow rates
the bosch 044 is used by many racers and maintains flow rates across all the pressure range(not many pumps mention this fact)
i got my 044 for $270 delivered brand new with bracket,saw on another aussie forum they were being offered by a sponsor for $240 if memory serves me correctly
finally the 044 has screw in fittings that allow you to secure the high pressure side better than just clamping it.....handy to know when you could have the equivalent of a petrol bowser of fuel pouring into your engine bay
it is also worth noting that these pumps can suffer premature failure if the have to suck fuel up to them....eg if pump a long way from the tank or mounted higher than it against gravity....just thought i'd mention that in case mounting position is a dilemma
regards
paul
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hi guys
could someone explain why only the zxt halfshafts can be used in the r200 into 240z and not the zx ones(if indeed this is the case)....presume the lengths are the same,so is it the bolt pattern of the companion flange??
cheers
paul
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Sounds a good deal, want to say who the supplier is?
no worries....as soon as it arrives and i can recommend the supplier from a positive experience
paul
ps i haven't heard back from amax regarding their discrepancy in international versus domestic pricing policy
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by twin GRA carbies, do u mean gas research? how much do thoes this retail for?
g'day s30
yes they are gas research australia carbies......got the entire set up for $700 off an xf ute (250c.i turbo running 11's)
i already have a boss 302(not windsor/cleveland) and older steel cased model supra 5 speed in the car, and have the 302 windsor(previously single turbo) and new model supra 5 speed waiting in the wings
i am going auto so will be getting rid of the manual
i am very impressed with the strength of the supra gearboxes,even the old model one is as good as new despite several diffs giving up the ghost(courtesy of one of previous owners)
they both fit in the existing trans tunnel
how far you got with your conversion?
will it be street legal in victoria?
what are you doing for brake upgrade?i've got valiant alloy calipers and ventilated discs up front with r31 skyline discs on rear on my rb30t 240z
and i have vt commodore discs/calipers up front on the v8 240
what are you doing for a diff?i am going lsd r200 on the v8....not sure whether quaife/viscous/clsd....probably the former for strength and low maintenance
pic of my boss 302 240z below
paul
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just thought i'd update you all...esp those in aus.....managed to find a supplier(overseas)that will ship the r200 quaife atb to my door for the same price as the aussie product....herein endeth the quest.
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are the kaaz carriers as strong as the quaife atb and is there much difference in price?
i was under the impression that the quaife is set and forget with 100% lifetime warranty....including if your racing it,now that's peace of mind,lol.
paul
ps i got a price of AU$1550 for the quaife units(US$1160)inc delivery to australia
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...difference is i bet a chinaman could still buy the tacho in china for $5.
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Amax in AU make an excellent R180 helical LSD, here is a link. [url=http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/diff.htm]http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/diff.htm[/url'] But as far as I know they don't make a R200, which is not needed anyway unless you have big power or drag race.
not sure how this guy can sting locals over AUD$1400+10%gst yet sell to our american cousins for US$850.........i've done the maths and we are being gaffed
couldn't support a business like that when drax can supply a quaife for US$1350 regardless of which country you are from.....it's about time aussie businesses woke up to internet shopping
'nuf said
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hi guys,
anyone shed any light on who's got the best price on a quaife ATB unit to suit the R200(model QDF7L)
i am in australia,but it may be cheaper to ship it internationally
cheers
paul
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looks like an R200 diff to me
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blowzilla....is that the kenne bell s/c? if so have heard they are good but pricey
i have got a twin GRA 400 carbies and twin B2 converters,one of my concerns is if the single gas outlet from the tank will supply enough fuel to support 500hp+
my other dilemma is whether i need to go EMS to manage the timing....i have a spare wolf 3D but was hoping to keep things simple if possible,possibly get the dizzy regraphed?
any comments/ideas welcomed
paul
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g'day S30....
after exhausting my search for a blower for a windsor it looks like i will be going twin turbo...probably a couple of r33 skyline turbos off the rb25DET motor...........i am also thinking of LPG so that i can raise the compression ratio to assist with off boost(low rev) torque
let me know if you have any input
thanks
paul
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don't want centrifugal because i want off idle instant torque....otherwise might as well use a turbo
regards
paul
"just say no to lag"
Brake pedal works until you start the engine
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted
thanks guys
in answer to recent posts..........
checked the sticky's before this upgrade,the actuator rod in the booster was not disturbed so i don't think the disc is the cause nor the booster
when bleeding the calipers i am not getting any air in the line and that is after the car sat over night,i would expect ANY air to have risen to the bleed nipples
feel uneasy about seeing if the brakes stop the car when the pedal goes straight to the floor without resistance with the motor running....i figure this is about as close as you get to confirming you have no brakes without actually running into a pole
booster worked fine before,i think this is barking up the wrong tree,i may be wrong?
what would cause a hard 1/2 pedal and then NO pedal with vacuum assist???