Z24O
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Posts posted by Z24O
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sandwhiched a (bolted a plate through either side)mounts on the trans tunnel then mounted the gbox plate mount across the bottom of them
rb26 head/manifold flows well and has seperate throttle bodies.....nice....rb25 can still make big power,use the NA one to avoid the VVT crap,you can also fit better cams in it
ali spacer between the chassis and front crossmember gives more room (depth)in the engine bay....you won't need it with the rb25/26 head
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Hi Paul' date=' are you suggesting I should use the VL Commodore mounts rather than standard 240Z ones with the Castlemaine brackets?
regards Mike[/quote']
g'day mike
it's a while since my conversion was done,have a look at the commodore mounts compared to the stock Z mount....if they look interchangeable i'd go with the commodore one as it is designed to handle the rb turbo's torque
failing that have a look at my car when you get time
regards
paul
ps i drove my silver Z round to your place last saturday arvo,you were obviously out
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g'day rob
i've got an rb30et in my 240z with std inlet manifold/throttle body ie crossover pipe goes over rocker cover,i got it to fit by spacing the body off the front suspension by about 10mm so you shouldn't have any difficulty with the rb26 twincam head as it won't need the crossover
mounts the same for 240 and 260's
you'll need to cut the "ears" out of the trans tunnel which form the original mounts to clear the jatco
keep us posted
paul
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With a hardened lock up shaft it is good to 450 max....if assembled correctly.
bugger!!!
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hi guys
a friend of mine fabricated a set of mounts for me 4 years ago....before the aussie mounts were available
he originally used the 240/260 rubber mounts but said that the weight/hp of the rb30et was too much for the datsun rubber blocks,as well as the fact that they don't have a failsafe steel locking system incorporated in them
he ended up using the donor engines ones which are the aussie vl commodore
my friend has an engineering background and the mounts he made have worked well......anyone had problems with failure of the rubber mounts with the castlemaine kit
might as well know before you use them
cheers
paul
WA
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is 350hp the limit of this tranny??
i hope not,otherwise it's back to the drawing board!
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thanks guys but i really want the low rev spool,hence leaning towards the smaller turbo,agree tho that the gt35r would be the choice for racing
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anyone got any suggestions as to which of these two gt30r variants would work best on an rb30et(fmic,bosch 044,wolf ems,standard manifolds,std sohc,2 1/2" mandrel exhaust)
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant...tegory_Code=GRT
looking for good street performance,ie quick spool at low revs/gears with manageable traction....will be running a strengthened jatco 4 speed and 2800rpm hi stall
which size turbine housing?
int or ext wastegate?
just curious how many revs later would a GT35R spool up,how would this effect street traction when boost comes on with the auto??....better/worse than one of the above??
thanks in advance
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I just made a big leap forward' date=' I sold my block, head, turbo and all the bits and parts I was collecting for $2000 because... I just found a rb25det that has 18 000 KM on it with transmition, uncut harness, ecu and afm for $2600CAN. So, has the car will soon go into hibernation out goes the ol' L24 and in goes the RB, wich me luck and I'll try to upload some pics as i go along to make somekind of a "How to" manual. + Me and a friend just found, in a field of a farmer he knows, a 1949 Buik Roadmaster, the car was left there 10 years ago by a guy from the village who asked to park the car there but, never came back, so we called the police, the car is'nt stollen and belongs to a dead guy so, we're filling forms to gain posession of the vehicle trough the farmer. FREE!!!!!! I'll try to post pics of that to,
restoring a framed car is a joke compared to are small unibodys.[/quote']
....what happened to the RB30et idea,i thought you had a few engines coming from aus?
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Will this turbo do what I want?
hi guys
looking for opinions as to the suitability of this turbo for my 302 240Z.....
forged 8.5:1 pistons,eagle rods,edelbrock performer heads,roller cam/rockers,have performer intake with injectors as well as tuneable engine management system but am contemplating going staight propane instead(have twin GRA gas carbies and twin B2 converters)
really want to minimize lag and keep boost threshold low(revs) so wonder if the turbine A/R is too large(1.11),was considering using half the tangential inlet(ie 1.11 divided by 2) and running a 50mm external wastegate through a muffler to atmosphere(hoping to keep back pressure/heat down in the valve/heads)would love to be able to switch the wastegated gas thru the second half of the tangential housing at higher revs like a variable turbine....anyone have any thoughts on this??
compressor is supposed to be good for 55lbs/min or roughly 550hp which is about all i'd want to put a 302 block thru
feel free to give your opinion and experience
oh and forgot to mention i plan running an auto and 2800rpm stall converter
GT3782
.58A/R TS04 compressor cover with 4" inlet
59mm inducer
82mm Major
1.11A/R T4 turbine housing
66.5mm exducer
72.5mm Major
Full floating oil cooled CHRA
3" V-band outlet
thanks guys
paul
western australia
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hi guys
looking for opinions as to the suitability of this turbo for my 302 240Z.....
forged 8.5:1 pistons,eagle rods,edelbrock performer heads,roller cam/rockers,have performer intake with injectors as well as tuneable engine management system but am contemplating going staight propane instead(have twin GRA gas carbies and twin B2 converters)
really want to minimize lag and keep boost threshold low(revs) so wonder if the turbine A/R is too large(1.11),was considering using half the tangential inlet(ie 1.11 divided by 2) and running a 50mm external wastegate through a muffler to atmosphere(hoping to keep back pressure/heat down in the valve/heads)would love to be able to switch the wastegated gas thru the second half of the tangential housing at higher revs like a variable turbine....anyone have any thoughts on this??
compressor is supposed to be good for 55lbs/min or roughly 550hp which is about all i'd want to put a 302 block thru
feel free to give your opinion and experience
oh and forgot to mention i plan running an auto and 2800rpm stall converter
GT3782
.58A/R TS04 compressor cover with 4" inlet
59mm inducer
82mm Major
1.11A/R T4 turbine housing
66.5mm exducer
72.5mm Major
Full floating oil cooled CHRA
3" V-band outlet
thanks guys
paul
western australia
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One thing to keep in mind is that a big single will operate more efficiently at higher boost levels where as two smaller turbos will be efficient at slightly lower boost pressures.
does this mean that the twin turbos will boost earlier(more responsive) in the rev range but run out of puff higher up the rpm scale?
thanks to you all you guys who contributed
paul
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1) A T66 or T70 would probably be fine for your needs. Contact ForcedInductions' date=' they'll get you better answers on that.
2) You'll be fine either way
3) If properly sized, they'll come on the same
4) External
5) If you want tq, then yes, very much so[/quote']
thanks for that info
you're right the T66 and T70 compressor maps both look good for the 302,my question is how do you predict spool-up characteristics at lower revs(ie torque on the street).....should the points plotted be in the highest island of efficiency for most of the rev range?
the reason i ask is i have an rb30et in my other Z which has a T3 and is quite responsive above 2500rpm however when i looked at the T3 charts it looked ridiculously small as far as turbo choice goes,the TO4 looked better but i know these are laggy as hell on the rb30et at lower revs
this turbo choice is about as straight forward as voodoo i reckon
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hi guys,
i was considering twin turboing the 302 in my 240z but after getting hold of a couple or garrett BB turbos off the r33 nissan skyline and mocking up in the 240's engine bay it's amazing how it goes from empty to full....and that's without all the plumbing!
anyhow i've already got the manifolding to run a single turbo upfront near the harmonic balancer but had a couple of questions ..................
1] what do you suggest as a suitable single turbo(motor has forged 8.5:1 pistons,edelbrock aluminium heads,eagle rods,roller cam/rockers)
2] is it worth the extra to get a twin ball bearing turbo?
3] how much slower is the boost likely to be with a single compared to twin turbos....i really want low rev torque not high rev/boost
4] internal or external wastegate?
5] would the single turbo be better than a centrifugal supercharger kit?
any suggestions and advice welcome,especially from anyone who's been down this path
regards
paul
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I test fitted a AOD in my 71' date=' the way my engine fit is with the oil pan behind the cross member. With that placement the back of the engine is right at the firewall and the tranny fit but I cut off the little blocks on each side that hit the firewall and I had removed the Z's stock tranny mounts off the tunnel.
I didn't mess with it much as I am going with a T5.
Good luck
Don[/quote']
many thanks don,
the 2 blocks you refer to? are these the alloy pieces on the AOD bellhousing?
how do you find your T5 for hooking up ie traction
paul
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hi guys
tried searching without success
anyone fitted an AOD auto trans in their Z?
wondering if the trans tunnel is big enough?
also wondering how strong these transmissions are (HP) and how the ratios compare to a C4......really need the overdrive
cheers
paul
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I made my manifold stok distrutor eaton 90 cid
hi andy,
was this an off the shelf item or custom made??
any chance of a few pics
paul
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how about an Eaton 112 siting in Utah for somwhere around five hundred got it don't need it running a 90cid Eaton
thanks andy
considered this but the manifold and distributor position pose some questions.............anyone done it?
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Well' date=' I think the kid has allready made up his mind as he's talking about getting the harness back from Mc stealers. The thing is, if you sre willing to wait, you can get away quite cheaply. You see, i have 4 RB30 bottoms comming my way, 3000$ with shipping to my door, (I'll sell 3, won't cost me a dime. Heck, I'll maybe even make money out of it.) I RB25 vari. cam, 500$ a used T3/T4, 100$ (will do for now) will look into donor injectors a 100 max (used) etc. One thing though, I'm a certified BMW TECH so wirring dos'nt realy scare me. If the kid is as smarts as he sounds and with
UTI training, I'm sure he'll puill it out. I think we should encourage him instead of telling him to go L28T.[/quote']
the budget will be heading north rapidly if he decides to go the rb30DET route as he'll be up for a rebuild staight away!!
btw the non VVT head is a better option for the rb30det conversion
paul
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The R33 RB25DET 5 speeds are expensive down under arnt they! Mine cost me $2k.
anyone want to pitch in about the pro's and cons of the mx7(rb30 turbo vl commodore) box vs the one behind the rb25det....as they are easier/cheaper to get hold of in the land of oz
i beleive the mx7 is very similar to the nissan patrol 4wd,and they can take a pounding
slightly off topic but may help ash to decide which way to go
paul
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thanks guys
looks like i've got some leads to follow/check over the weekend
will post how i went next week
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thanks guys
update
definately no leaks of brake fluid
i have been concentrating on re-bleeding the front brakes as i primed the m/c before fitting and the rear brakes were ok before
the pedal stays hard at the 1/2 way point if you keep pressure on it with the engine off....turn it on and it goes straight down with no effort at all....revs rise slightly on pumping brake pedal indicating vacuum being drawn
i can't help thinking it's to do with the actuator rod,even though i measured the static depth in the m/c and it was within a bees privates......lets say the rod was too long or too short-what symptoms would i see????
thanks for your patience
paul
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i beleive the genuine nissan unis are the strongest of all.........partly due to the absence of the grease nipple which degrades the structural integrity by providing a stress point
....but if you want to be sure fit the cv 1/2 shafts from the 280zxt....i am presuming you have the r200 diff
good luck
paul
Will this turbo do what I want? 
Will this turbo do what I want?
in Ford V8Z Tech Board
Posted
thanks for the input guys
anyone hazard a guess at the spool up characteristics revs wise?
how much quicker to boost would for example be a gt35r?