Z24O
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Posts posted by Z24O
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when do you start seeing boost with the 1.06 turbine housing?
how close is the turbo to the bonnet(hood)
anyone know if the 6Boost hi-mount exhaust manifolds give the GT35's enough clearance in the Z's??
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to those who expressed an interest in the oil drains they are US$40 each plus post
quality CNC diy part,easily fitted and removed if you ever choose to sell the head stock
PM me if you want any and specify -8 or -10 (by the way both sizes have been tested on an RB26 at revs and they flowed oil almost identically)
payal is available for payment
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i wouldn't have thought so,unless you were travelling vertically,but then i am not claiming to be an expert,but...
that's a big drain hose
G's can't be constant in direction unless it is oval track racing
the rocker covers would be full of oil first if there was that much lateral g force
for 99% of most applications i would say this is a better option than the restrictor method
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One of the problems of the RB26 can be that at high performance levels they tend to flood the head with oil and starve the bottom end.
Some people fit oil restrictors in the galleries to stop too much oil getting up into the head but this can lead to inadequate oiling at low revs.
The best way is to fit an adequate drain to quickly get the oil back down into the sump.
This fitting is a simple,reliable method of achieving this that requires no machining.
It simply replaces the core plug at the rear of the head and allows either a -8 or -10 right angle fitting to screw on and drain the excess oil (via a flexible line) back down to the sump,either by another entry or T'd into the turbo drain.
If a few people want these I can get them machined up.
Let me know.
Can also get crank collars machined up out of 4140 high tensile steel and machined on a CNC for accuracy and high quality.These are mandatory for r32/RB26 and RB30 cranks which only have the narrow oil pump drives and are renowned for cracking the oil pump collar.
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budget option for RB25's are of course the RB26 rods
but i agree,SPOOL rods FTW
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That is some local humour. D.o.C = Department of Conservation ie they look after all the rare and protected plants, birds etc.
The Takahe is such a bird and a D.o.C staff member shot one thinking it was one of the other native birds that is not on the rare list.
google "doc Takahe shot"
i like the fact they are thinking of going to shotguns instead of using .22's(put away the scalpel and pull out the chainsaw)
that should help:confused:,why not just call in a "precision" airstrike
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the post referring to case by case for the quality of knock-off products is right
however in this age of internet buying,sight unseen,you pay your money and you take your chances.....so how much do you want to pay and how much of a chance are you prepared to take
i know of at least 2 Greddy copies that were porous in the ports,so bad they couldn't be welded up...others have fitted them and been happy
personally i would always go with improving the standard one(extruded honed/ported) or buying a custom fabricated local one that has R&D results and a reputation to protect(not to mention funding a local business)
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the kit is the one to suit the RB30,also fits RB20/25/26
http://www.rodshop.com.au/mounts.htm
EM81 3 Litre Turbo RB30 To Datsun 260Z...near the bottom of the list
pretty sure the nissan patrol (with the rb30 in it) sump also fits the rb25,pick up available new from nissan over here...i have one that i can measure the bolt spacings if you have an rb25 block
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castlemaine rod shop in australia do a kit
i made my own,cut the ears off the trans tunnel and made a mount like so _/ that bolted up the sides of the tunnel with plates inside the car _// and bolted together sandwhiching the tunnel in between for added strength
ps don't use the L series rubber engine mounts if you make your own,they are not as strong as the RB ones and from memory don't have the locking steel failsafe either
good luck
ps if you have any probs ordering the aussie CRS kit,let me know,i can help you out
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I have 2 quick questions.
I have rb25det series 2 on my 240z and I just got it running with the stock 280zx turbo fuel pump, you think it will give it enough fuel pressure to drive?
Also anyone think I will have any problem using the series 1 MAF on my series 2 motor? I got the wrong Maf at the moment.....
Any help will be appreciated.
-JT
can't help you with the Maf issue but regarding the fuel pump,get yourself a fuel pressure gauge at very least,however personally i wouldn't trust an old pump as it is the easiest way of burning a piston on boost
why risk having to completely rebuild a motor for the sake of a new pump....you guys have a cheap walbro(hope it's not made by walmart:tongue:) option that would be a step up,personally i would do it right first and get a bosch 044
don't forget that if you are going to run more boost or a bigger turbo you may need to upgrade your injectors
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fit a surge tank....cheaper,easier,better
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depends what sort of horsepower you are aiming for
i notice you mention you don't want a 3 speed auto,the easiest solution would be to use the jatco 3 spd + overdrive ("L4N71B") which can be built very tough (almost as strong as a C4 but not as cheaply),they have a very minimum of electronics(think only for kickdown,but easily converted to vacuum),i believe these boxes came out behind later model vehicles with the L28,eg nissan patrols 4X4 in australia anyway,but you can change the front housing over to the earlier 3 speed anyway
if you opt for a non-nissan 4 speed auto eg supra 340E,it will be very expensive and complicated and those trans are fully run by an onboard integrated computer....not retro Z friendly
if you opt for a GM/Ford 4 speed auto eg TH700 or AOD,you once again have the bellhousing,torque converter,speedo,electronics(not as bad as supra),tailshaft adaption problems and the need to spend big money to toughen these trans up for big hp....the 4th gear is always the weak link
if you are building a big hp combo then undoubtedly a C4,TH350/400 would be the cheapest most reliable option...but you are stuck with a 3 speed unless you do eg a gear vendors overdrive conversion,++$
summing up
L28 up to 350hp-L4N71B Jatco 3 speed+O/D
L28 350-500hp -C4/TH350
L28 500hp+ -TH400
if you have enough hp you won't miss that 4th gear unless you do a lot of highway miles
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i decided to go RB30 block/RB26 head due to the number of RB26 blocks that i personally know of that have had problems,and they weren't even high performance engines...porous bores,cracked blocks,bearing problems,castings cracking.
i always worry when a manufacturer brings out something as integral as an engine block and then offers a factory high performance option,after all weren't ALL gtr's a high performance cars,and secondly,why keep selling the original block in later models when it has been demonstrated they are not up to the task....why not just upgrade all models to the better design N1,after all they already have the casting molds and how much more can a couple of kilos and better metal cost at that stage of production(answer-a very small proportion of the asking price for the finished car)
you very rarely hear of an rb30 block sh1tting itself and there are some very high horsepower ones running in australia,probably due to the fact they were from an earlier time when good metal was readily available and one block was used for every application,including commercial heavy duty offroad vehicles....they couldn't afford mass failures in a commercial or bulk passenger fleet,no-one would have bought another nissan car again,especially as they couldn't blame it on rev head abuse
the above is purely based on my observations,thoughts and personal conspiracy theory
i have several conspiracy theories but am reluctant to divulge them as you never know who is listening:lmao:
oh and also went rb30 block as they are $50 instead of $500 to replace IF they do ever fail.....in Oz anyway:grin:
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all i would add is don't skimp in this area or take any short cuts,leaning out under boost can be an expensive exercise with an rb26
use a quality fuel pump(or 2 in case 1 fails),make sure you have adequate voltage under ALL road conditions(don't rely on 30 year old Z wiring in this area...see an auto-electrician if you have no idea),remember that pumps are rated at certain voltage for flow,some sound good until the voltage drops,can't go past the bosch 044 imho.
like mike,make sure you run a surge tank because the Z's are not well baffled in the tank area and you don't want the pick-up starving or sucking air.
make sure that none of your fuel pumps are sucking up-hill(their efficiency is drastically reduced,they can cavitate and get hot which shortens their service life),this means having the first one as close to the tank pick-up and below the in tank fuel level
i replaced the in tank pick-up with 1/2" metal tubing,but not sure you need to for 400hp??
use good quality race fuel line(won't distort under heat thus reducing flow)and solid fittings(not walmart 10 for a dollar type)
a fuel gauge is handy to keep an eye on your fuel pressure as there is no safe way of seeing if there is a problem in that area
if you use 2 pumps of differing flow rates be careful that you don't have the bigger one overpowering the weaker on and doing funny things with the fuel flow
remember that there is also a regulator in the circuit that establishes line pressure(40psi+),don't be tempted to go for a rising rate regulator to boost fuel flow through your injectors if they are maxing out at a given HP,some say this is a cheap fix.....until an injector fails without warning to cope with the excessive pressure and seizes followed quickly by the demise of your engine!!!. rule of thumb work on 85% max injector duty cycle,above this play it safe and get bigger injectors
worth also getting the stock injectors tested ,(who knows what they have been subjected to by the previous owner),for fuel flow and pattern,they should be within a few percent of each other
last but certainly not least,make sure you have adequate filters in the system,don't use crappy small ones that can severely limit flow if only slightly dirty....i use the type with the screw on metal filters the size of an oil filter,think they are designed for trucks(look much the same as a remote oil filter setup)
i know the above sounds a bit daunting,it's not,mainly common sense and a bit of thinking about what is doing what,it's worth doing it right in the first place as you should not have to worry about the fuel side of things after that
good luck
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I had a 260z with a VG30DET in it,man it was a tight fit,they are a tall wide motor but they are built for boost...better head sealing than an RB due to the head bolt setup,hate to have an extra turbo in there and then try and work on it though
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A nissan shop in USA would be wise (and enterprising) to connect with one in AUS to arrange for a dozen RB30's to be brought over on a pallet, etc.
i offered to do this at my end but no serious takers:confused2,presumed you blokes were happy with your little RB's(sorry couldn't resist:tongue:)
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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
You cannot interchange rb20 and rb25 intake manifolds.
Evan
actually you can if the rb25(N/A) is from an r32 skyline,but this is the only RB25 that shares the intake side with the rb20,you can spot the head because it does not have the VVT solenoid that varies the cam timing
it is sought after in Aus because it is a simple bolt-on to the rb30 bottom end without having to tap an oil feed for the VVT
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i thought only the early RB25 out of the r32 cars shared the same inlet with the RB20, ????the exhaust sides all fit though
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Wouldnt happen to be that your in aus. now would it?????
haha,sure am,we use the RB30 blocks for boat anchors over here:lol:
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McKinney had the 200ZR pans on back order when I went to their shop a week or two ago so I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't have any around. You could probably put in an order to them for one if all else fails. They are good guys I'd recommend them. However it probably wont come cheap ($400-$500).
one of the reasons i decided to use the RB30 bottom end,$20 for a sump and pick up......oh and also for the extra torque:lmao:
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Has anyone dealt with ss-autochrome.com?
I have placed an order for a single turbo manifold for the RB26 over a month ago and I'm getting the runaround, anyone know of a diferent source for the single manifold?
thnx
consider it an omen;-)
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6boost out of austrailia(sp).
There was a group buy on nico on these.
Evan
not sure the std 6BOOST high mount will work with a Z,i have one of his RB30 high mounts and from my measurements the turbo would hit the hood on the RB30 in my 240Z,the rb25/26 manifold looks like it would have the same problem....also that was only using a baby GT30 turbo,anything bigger would be even more of a problem
anyone used one of the 6BOOST manifolds in their Z and can confirm the fit?
BTW his manifolds are top shelf,steam pipe construction with lifetime warranty
a low mount may be another option but very squeezy to work on at a guess
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i think a factor often overlooked is the profile of a tyre
if you look at a slow motion picture of a drag slick launch you will see the tyre deform elastically into a semi eliptical shape(bit like an oval in a wave motion)
this has the effect of increased contact patch as the tyre balloons ahead of itself in contact with the track
i do not think that eg 18" rims with very low profile tyres have enough side wall give to allow this effect to occur
lowering your tyre pressures really help too
as usual a street car is all about compromise,unfortunately drag racing set-up is often in direct conflict with circuit racing requirements....depends what you really want to do best
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about 27c is the cheapest LSD i've ever used......may cost you a bit more if you need to buy the welder to attach to the electrode,lol
Anyone interested in a complete RB30ET conversion?
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
hi guys,
i am selling the RB30ET conversion out of my 240Z
from fmic to diff and all the drivetrain in between...
reconditioned motor,head and turbo(done less than 1500KM),complete wiring harness,ecu,sump,mounts,turbo 5 speed manual gearbox,new clutch,radiator,tailshaft,intercooler and piping,bov,mandrel stainless exhaust
complete bolt in conversion(probably take you a weekend)
very reliable and fast
asking US$7000 including delivery to your nearest port.
PM me if you're keen