Z24O
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Posts posted by Z24O
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I have a TH400 it fit with no massaging in my 75. However the fit is tight.
thanks fellas
tkach...how did you go routing the exhaust,what size can you slip in there?
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....thanks but no nissan options
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surely someone knows
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looking at putting a strong auto behind an rb26/30 in my 240Z
does anyone know if a TH400 will fit in the tunnel without any "massaging"?
was also thinking C4 but was quoted $1500 for a custom converter from RB to C4,anyone use one and get around this issue cheaper?
i like the C4 idea as there is a custom bellhousing for RB-C4....the TH400 uses a steel adapter that sandwhiches between the RB and the TH400,also has an adapter to use std torque converter(see cheap)
any info/advice welcome from those that have been there,done that
ps considered powerglide but car mainly street driven,if going to trouble of THXXX i would rather use the TH400 than the TH350 as it will not need any fancy parts to keep it alive and i can spare the 10hp:)
OD not essential, and would be a weak link imho,running 3.54:1 diff
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Dont forget the nitrous!
You will need an adapter kit. I purchased the RB20 bell housing and sent it to the company developing the kits. They modified the bell housing and shipped it to me, along with the rest of the parts.
i see
who are they and what did it cost?
do they sell off the rack?
do they do one for a C4/10 to RB?
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that's what i've been hearing too. SPOOL rods are two piece and have the big end punched out to redirect the grain direction, making it "like a knot in wood"
Anyone who's tried to hand-saw wood will attest to the multiplication of strength required to saw through those little buggers and the wood surrounding 'em
if anyone is interested in buying a set of Spool rods to suit an RB30 i am selling a brand new,unused set
willing to ship stateside and take paypal
PM me if anyone's keen
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awesome combination...turbo/rb26/th400....a match made in heaven
what was required in modifying the RB20 auto bellhousing to fit the TH400
i am really interested as i was tinkinf of buying an adapter kit but your set up looks much neater
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Hi guys, I did the search before i ask this question. I've done a rb25det swap to my 280z. Apparently, my car is lowered...and my oilpan is kinda close to the ground (approx. 3-4"). Any solution for it? My friends suggestion was to put a x brace at the bottom (he drive a S2k, i'm not sure if s30 has something like that.) I hope you guys can give me your suggestion for this problem.
Thanks, Dave
can you raise it in the engine bay by an inch or so?,there should be lots of room if you have a forward facing plenum instead of the standard one that has a crossover over the cam covers
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http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R34-Gt-6-Speed-Getrag-Ge-t216865.html&hl=getrag
this guy lives in my city and he wants AU$3100 for the Getrag 6 speed gearbox and transfer case from his R34 GTR (RB26)
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one point worth noting with standard RB turbos is that most of them have ceramic turbine wheels (for low inertia quicker spool) however these tend to grenade centrifugally if you push them much over 12 psi
having said that ,12 psi through an rb25/26 is pretty exciting in a Z,however when you get to wanting more it can get pretty expensive so set your HP/torque/$ goals early and pick your powerplant accordingly
another thing to consider is that no matter how much power you have,it is no use unless you can get it to the pavement early....especially on launch,this i feel is one of the big advantages of a turbo engine,with a new engine managment system you can dial in the boost for each gear and so tailor traction
in your stateside situation i would go turbo 302 windsor,easy reliable 500HP
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I know a bunch of people that run Eagles with no issues, but for awhile they did have that negative image, but I think it was due to a bad batch like a lot of manufacturers run into during their product life. In my last built motor I ran Pauter rods and CP pistons and loved them but I am not sure what I will be using for my upcoming RB30... seems like options are pretty darn limited there.
SPOOL rods and CP pistons for the RB's are a winning and proven combination in Australia.No denying that Carrillos and Pauters have the reputation but SPOOLs have held together in some big hp low et RB powered cars
You can usually get the rods for about $800,I got my set for $600 unused.I scour the forums for new unused parts....CP's go for $800-$1000 usually
(all $ are AU)
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RB30E pistons will work for you giving around 8.5:1 with the RB25 head on RB30 bottom end.....RB30ET pistons will be too low compression at around 7.5:1
RB26 pistons will be too far down the bore due to the different pin height to RB25 and RB30's
have a look on skylines australia forum for more info
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I am not sure about running the fuel line down the trans tunnel,if ever the tailshaft let go it would more than likely sever the line dumping fuel everywhere.
Not a criticism,just a point to bear in mind.
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guy over here in Oz has a manifold for sale if anyone needs one
http://dragster.com.au/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=14634&forum=6
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you are correct.....you have read it wrong
1- gear sets are interchangeable only like to like eg short nose r200 to short nose r200 and likewise for long nose casings
2- carriers are physically interchangeable between all r200's(you CAN put a carrier out of a short nose r200 into a long nose version) but you CANNOT interchange the gears.
3- if you use a VLSD short nose carrier in a short nose r200,you MUST use the accompanying halfshafts that came with the VLSD......that is not to say you cannot bolt it into your long nose houing and slip in your 260Z halfshafts---it DOES mean you will not have LSD as one of the splined axles will be too short to engage fully
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i'd look at the TO4Z as a compromise,quick spool big hp
look on here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com
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have a read thru some of the info here www.skylinesaustralia.com
just bear in mind that the RB heads probably breathe a little better than the L28,but at least you are in the ballpark
my comment regarding sizing the turbo would be GT3076 with 0.82 a/r turbine housing for quick,low rev spoolup and good street performance
and GT3582 for top end horsepower at the expense of low rev spool,better for all out racing but a bit doughy at low revs
there are several other factors to consider.....
-auto trans with higher stall converter allows use of bigger turbo and masks turbo lag
-better flowing exhaust manifold,custom or power ported standard cast iron,can really aid spooling up of a larger turbo
-no point going for a large compressor side unless your motor can get rid of the air through the exhaust side,if it cant due to small turbine side or restrictive head(2 valve,poor design,non ported) or poor exhaust flow....then this will result in a big back pressure differential which will develop a lot of heat,place stress on valve train,overboost internal or small wastegates and generally not help in power delivery
-small turbine housings generally cause boost to come on like a light switch rather than gradually,not good for street driving around bends or traction in an S30
-static compression ratio has a lot to do with power goals,low comp engines run big HP on big boost,but there is a lot to be said for running higher comp(around 9:1 to 9.5:1) with a bigger cam to bleed off cylinder pressures and avoid detonation whilst being quite lively to drive off boost on the street
-a .82 a/r turbine housing in a GT30 is about the same size as a .63 a/r in a GT35
- i doubt a GT30 will get you 500rwhp(without insane psi and everything needed to support this) on an L28 but it will be much more fun to drive as a street car
as with most things in life,it's all about compromise
work out how you want to drive the car most of the time and match the turbo accordingly
don't get hung up on horsepower figures unless you are all out racing,a formula one car has massive horsepower but would be a pig to drive to work daily
keep us posted
paul
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gear sets (ring and pinion) should be interchangeable between all short nosed R200 carriers,
changing carriers(+ gears) is not always as option due to the different half shafts....the VLSD has one side that is much longer than the other side and wont work on a non-VLSD carrier
just check that the ring gear bolt holes are the same size,i know that the earlier ones(for long nose R200) were 10mm and the later 12mm
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After peoples opinions on the pros and cons of these 2 engine swaps
I have a Boss 302 in my 240Z,fantastic to drive,very torquey in such a light car....however my other Z has an RB30 turbo in it and is significantly faster but not as much fun to drive off boost(nowhere near as much torque)
Here is my quandry...
I have a turbo 302 ready to go in the Z however an acquaintance of of mine is singing the praises of an LS6 (hence the dark side reference) Z conversion with a better flowing intake(there is even a carby version available that integrates with the LS6 electronic ignition without the distributor)
I am concerned at keeping the weight down and so the 302 has aluminium heads and EFI intake...i believe it should weigh in dressed at 425lbs or thereabouts
Now the LS6 auto dressed weight is around 460lbs i believe,not a huge difference
I am hoping for 450-500hp at the wheels,this will be approaching the limits of a 302 windsor block but should be achievable with a turbo(although i have a mexican block to use as well),the LS6 standard pumps out 385 hp@6000rpm and 385ftlbs of torque at 4800rpm
It is obvious that my driving style favours torque over HP,but....is the LS6 likely to be too much torque for the little Z,would i be satisfied with the torque of the 302 cubes with the extra kick from boost,would it make a better daily driver?
The sensation of driving my 2 Z's at the moment I can best describe as a steadily increasing push back in the seat feeling from the NA 302 vs an elastic band feeling from the turbo,slowly pushing you back and then snapping your head back as it comes on boost(it's quite a rush but with normal sedate driving you don't get it as you are changing gears before the boost comes on)
Opinions appreciated,room for lots of 2c in this thread.
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the biggest hurdle is i doubt that the carbies will be functional,the fuel would have evaporated years ago and the seals/jets/diaphrams would have suffered....you may be able to try firing it up by spraying aerostart into the venturis while you turn the engine over...you may be lucky as the fuel is drawn through the carbies by the engine vacuum and they start running
the fuel pump(manual or electric)is also likely to be US or leak!!!....i would buy a cheap electric fuel pump and plumb it up with a temporary fuel tank(like a gallon can with a fitting for the fuel line),put some aligator clips on longer wiring that you can clip to the battery to power up the pump with adequate,clean fuel(taking sensible precautions to avoid endangering yourself with the petrol in the can igniting....check the system for leaks before trying the ignition)
the other thing i would do is pull all the spark plugs out(opportune time to put new ones in,correctly gapped)and spray WD40 or CRC(spray pack lubricants)into all the cylinders....leave it for 24 hours then repeat before trying to turn the engine over,manually if you can otherwise with the starter motor......then put the plugs in,check adequate oil and water and try firing it up
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try these guys in australia
have a very good reputation amongst drag/street racers
i am sure they can advise and help you
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This was the day I got her (Nov 26th) She is now about 5 months old:
I live in St. Charles Terry
i thought there were supposed to be horses under the hood:eek:
BTW i will be interested to know if that cobra intake fits under the standard hood....measurements on mine dictated i will have to use the standard 5.0 intake which is about 1 1/2" lower.....i had it Moss ported to get it to flow a little better
keep us up to date with the project
paul
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First, don't start telling me to search, i have for the past 2 days and still no answer.
I like to know witch trannys that will bolt up on a RB25DE, the reason why, is that i have a RB25DE on my hands, but its with 5 speed auto tranny and i want to go manual.
The swap is for a 240Z
Thanks
Chris
thought about a manual valve body for the auto trans?
best of both worlds
like a clutchless manual,the gear you select is the gear you get regardless of revs or roadspeed,pretty cheap to buy(around $350 new in australia) and easily installed
hook this up with a mild histall converter and good oil cooler and you have a very lively transmission,perfect for tough street/strip driving,faster than a manual
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i had a turbo jatco box built by a guy into the drag racing scene in WA
he is a whizz with C4's and reckons the jatco has similar strength parts available(used a few parts out of a nissan patrol auto,extra clutches,different overdrive setup,etc) ,and as you mentioned,much better bearings
the overdrive is the weak link,doesn't recommend shifting into it on full boost if you want the box to last
he can't figure out why guys bother messing with the trimatics(traumatics as he calls them)in preference to the jatco
if you don't want the overdrive he reckons stick with the jatco 3 speed out of earlier nissans
Using Porsche CV Shafts
in Drivetrain
Posted
I'd be more worried about the stub axle myself,especially if you thought you could just bolt this conversion in and have a bullet proof rear end.....remember those original stubs have had 30 years of potential abuse already
at the very least swap them out for new OEM ones.
also for those guys with the weaker 240z stubs it's probably worth upgrading to the stronger/more splines of the later models