GrayZee

The member that did that is "ZR8ED" member# 131 He has got a website with pics of his swap, looks like the biggest part of the swap was modifying the steering shaft to go around the turbocharger. http://zdriver.com/articles/full_article.php?ID=65

Personally I think that you Yanks should have gave up that old crude form of measurement 20 years ago when the rest of the world did!

You are saying that the stock 280zxt "engine" can handle 25psi??? That's a big ole can of WHOOPass!

What year is the L28 engine? Although I don't think the n/a L28 bottom end is as strong as a turbo one I can give you a suggestion. If your engine is 1980 or older you'll have dished pistons and a small cc cylinder head chamber. Pull the head off and replace it with a P79 or a P90 head (1981 or newer) The larger combustion chambers will lower your compression ratio and allow you to get away with more boost. If you are not already aware, the lost power from the lower compression ratio is more than made up for by allowing you to run more boost. As for how much boost you can run, well I'm not really sure I would guess it would handle 6 or 7lbs but you'd best wait for a answer from one of the members that has been nominated for "TURBO-GOD" status.

Yeah I would love a crank fire system one day too. I know about the support inside the timing cover. I just didn't think it would hold up at high rpms. It is still a fairly loose fit if I remember correctly, wouldn't it grind out that aluminum eventually?

Pardon me but I got a question that I haven't seen anyone address yet.. Don't you need something to hold the other end of the oil pump rod? Otherwise it would just bounce around in there, no? I know the chevy 3.1's have a dummy distributor to brace the oil pump shaft.

Well you'll have to get all the electrics from the 83 anyway. (AFM, fuel pump, harness, computer, fuel pump modulator, ect.) but it'll make no difference that your 77 is a manual trans. Just bolt the flywheel, clutch and 5spd trans to the 83 engine. (make sure you put a pilot bearing in the new engine though) Use the 77 driveshaft and don't worry about the diffs. You won't find a LSD until you get to late 80's 300zx turbos. One thing that is different with the automatic cars it that they come with a engine oil cooler (that's a good thing) Another thing you might wanna know is that 1983 is the ONLY year that 280zxt's had hydraulic lifters. Not a bad thing but just hope you never need to replace them!

I did this swap as well, I used a piece of styrofoam insulation. I used a knife to cut it to the desired shape and made a spacer from it. Then I wrapped them with electrical tape to keep any flakes from getting into the vents. It was easy, cheap, and turned out really good! Oh, I also had to poke a hole through the center to make way for the oil line/capillary tubes.

quote: Originally posted by Owen: I made a plastic facing to replace the heater control panel and mounted oil pressure, fuel pressure, and next my voltmeter when it comes in. Owen So where did you put the heater controls? You chucked them, didn't you! Up here in Canada that isn't much of a option!

I wanted a 2-5/8 autometer temp and oil gauge but I ended up buying a trio pac for the same price (oil, volt, temp) I installed the temp and oil gauges but for the moment I still have the stock fuel/volt gauge in the dash. I plan to replace it with a boost guage, but then the question is where to put the volt/fuel guage... Here is my solution, I realized that the three hole bracket that came with the tri pac has three screw holes (two of which line up perfectly with the screws under the glove box door) So all I need to do is drill one hole in the bracket to be able to hang it under the glove box. At first I thought it would be in the way but it seems to be well out of the way of the passenger's knees. Of course this means that I have three holes to fill. My plan is to use the voltmeter that came with the trio pac and get a autometer fuel guage as well as a oil temp guage.

Been a while since I read up on that stuff, but off hand it sounds like maybe the BCDD (boost controlled deceleration device) it is a valve under the trottle body that allows more air to enter the intake during deceleration. Can't help you with the mileage problem. 8mpg is terrible, did you check for leaks?

How much do you charge for the 1st generation DP?

Hmmm.. there are a few things you might want to consider. The 83 engine has flattop pistons while the 79 will have dished pistons (assuming they are both original) If you are looking to build horsepower later on I would rebuild the 83 engine. You could maybe put the 79 head on the 83 block for some added compression. I don't remember off hand which is which, but nissan heads come with either square or round exhaust ports. This means that you'll have to make sure you have the proper exhaust manifold or header for the head you are using. Also the 83 head should have a temperature sensor by the #5 spark plug and I don't think the 79 has one. Something to think about in a swap, because the computer takes reading from that sensor. (the 79 sensor should be under the thermostat) The gear ratio of the 79 tranny should be better for off the line power in 1st and 2nd, the same for 3rd and 4th, and not quite as tall a 5th gear. Check it out for yourself at: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ Don't worry about the missing distributor, the one you have will work just fine. Just watch out for that temperature switch thing on the heads!

Well, I can honestly say that I've seen worse. I'd love to show you guys some pictures of some cars around here, but I agree with everyone else, if you can find a better car get one! If you plan on taking it to a bodyshop (assuming you can find a bodyman willing to do the job) it'll no doubt cost you more than buying a better car.

Oh, one more thing.. whatever you do DO NOT use the stock fuel pump from your 280z!

A 240/260, or a Webber intake will bolt on no sweat.

Yeah, I was starting to think that everyone had forgotten what a carb was! I believe there is still something to be said for keeping things simple.

Dude, you wanna run this on pump gas? I don't think you want to use a E31 head on a F54 block, you'll get too much compression (somewhere around 11:1) It'll bolt on no problem but you'd be better off with a E88 or a N47 head (that would give you 9.5 or 10) I'm not exactly sure on those figures but go to http://www.ideal-z.com/ and they have a download called Lengine. That will tell you all the specs of whatever combo you can dream up. If you do end up using a earlier head with the smaller valves then I'd pull all the valves from the 83 engine and have them put in the other head. (but you'll need new valve seats)

I don't know for sure on the years but I do know that it will be within a 81-84 body style.

I had a problem like that with my 79zx. I thought it was a problem with the hydraulic system too but in my case it wasn't (I bled the system many times but the problem would always come back) Look at your clutch pedal, there should be a sort of linkage that pivots from the pedal arm to the clutch master cylinder. Pull up on the pedal and watch the linkage, make sure that the pedal is coming all the way back up. Mine would stick once in a while, and if it wasn't getting a "full stroke" it wouldn't get the pressure to release the clutch. Hope that helps!

you should see some (squared off) notches on the camshaft, put a big pair of vise grips there and stuff a rag between the vise grip and the head/valve cover gasket surface. Then turn the cam till the grips are up tight against the head and then loosen the bolt.

My car is a 76 280z..

"It was incredible how fast the boost went from vac to full boost when I would floor it! the engine doesn't sound like it is working very hard..and I proved it when I had the 4.11 diff in there..the 3.7 also.. I could not reach max boost in the lower gears 1-3 the 3.54 diff made all the difference in the world....it was strange to see the car get faster as I decreased the ratio..If I had a 3.36 R200 I would have tried it too!! hehehe The motor really likes to be under load." Thank you for confirming that ZR8ED.. I asked a similar question but I don't believe anyone answered me. I was thinking of putting a 4.11 in my 76zt but I guess I'll stick with the 3.54! The more load you put on the engine the more the turbo likes it! [ October 25, 2001: Message edited by: GrayZee ]

Oh and about the pics.. when I get the turbo engine in there I'll post them for everybody, but don't hold your breath.. it could take awhile. Someone cut me off and I smashed up the nose of the car so that has gotta be fixed. Upon inspecting the damage we saw that it is starting to rust under the frame where the crossmember bolts on. So basically the engine, crossmember and at that point.. why not the whole front end, have gotta come out! Might as well renew all the bushings, paint under the hood, and spray some undercoating.. Replace the old engine with the turbo.. do some wiring.. I also gotta replace the bumpers with some 240 bumpers that Drax sent me.. and I still haven't done anthing to the engine I bought from the wreckers in April! *Sigh* I think I feel a headache coming on.. Can you say.. "WINTER PROJECT"?

quote: Originally posted by FTSzero: Sounds great. If you can I'd like to see pics as soon as you get it done. About how much money did you think this all cost you? Well like I said, I haven't actually put it all together yet. I still have my NA engine in the car. How much did it cost? well here in Canada I beleive it is about $80 for the filter? and the plumbing from the 300zx was given to me. To put a system on your 83zx I would grab that little elbow piece from a wrecker with all the clamps and I believe there is a boot on it as well, buy yourself a k&n cone filter and your set. [ October 25, 2001: Message edited by: GrayZee ]