GrayZee

I came across a simple easy and cheap way to convert a L6 Z (turbo or NA) to a K&N cone, first get your hands on the plastic air intake tubes from a 1st generation NA 300zx the small "elbow" piece is a perfect fit for the rubber on the front of the AFM on a L28 and then the K&N filter can be attatched to the other end in front of the rad. (of course you'll have to plug up the "T's" that branch out from that part) What I am gonna do however is use the long tube.. I am going to connect it to the rubber boot of the air intake side of my L28t (between the AFM and the turbo) That air tube from the 300zx is the right length, diameter and shape to run up to the opening in the rad cradle and take a 90 degree turn on other side of the rad.. there I will mount my AFM (need to make a bracket for that) Then the factory rubber that connects the turbo AFM to that air cleaner I'll use to connect a K&N cone filter. No, I haven't actually hooked it all up yet but I have placed them out and it all seems to measure up and fit in place just fine. It actually looks like it was made for it! I hope I explained all that well enough for anyone that is interested. If I didn't let me know and I'll try and explain it better.. (right now I am tired and ready for bed so I might not have been clear)

Does anybody know the phone number for america's most wanted?

I've owned a few Zcars and I always seem to buy the "fixer uppers" At first I spend a small fourtune on them but after they are repaired and brought back up to snuff. They are quite reliable. Of course there is always the stereo upgrades, cosmetics, more horsepower, handling upgrades, ect. that will drive up the costs!

Just a quick side question.. how do you plan on controlling the 4N71B? it is computer controlled is it not?

Thank you for pointing out that problem Clint. Would you happen to know if the engine itself will bolt right in? I assume that the transmission will bolt up no prob?

OH come on people! after three days NOBODY has any thoughts on this subject?

Yeah the 81-84maxima distributor will work. If I remember right, one wire goes to the -coil terminal and the other wire to the +terminal. However the later model distributors have a plug at the bottom of the module, you don't need it, but I'm not sure what will happen if you leave it un-connected. Although I know that if later you can get your hands on a earlier module, it'll fit on the newer distributor.

Ok I already got my hands full and I shouldn't even think it but.. JUST CURIOUS.. anyone know how hard it would be to put a 300turbo (84 I think)in a 87 Pathfinder V6? I'm fixing up the Pathfinder for winter, but I do know where to get my hands on a 300zx turbo engine real cheap..

According to the info given at: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ those diffs would be 3.70's but if it were a R180 it would be a 3.36 but I would check for sure by taking off the diff cover and look for numbers stamped on the side of the crown gear (divide the bigger # by the smaller one) That'll give you the ratio.

can't be any worse than the non-AC blower? Actually the blower is probably the same but the switch and resistors are different.

Well I went back to the wrecking yard to get my AC and I ran out of time before I could get everything but I did manage to get the box that houses the evaporator, blower, and the accumulator. I didn't get the housing that contains the heater section though. I'm thinking that the AC section will just fit in front of the heater (my car seems to have a empty housing sitting between the heater and the dash vents) I also noticed that the models with AC use vacuum to control the vents and switches. I like a more simplistic setup. So I hope that the evaporator housing fits in front of the heater assembly no problem and I'll just wire up the electrical to run the compressor myself (turn it to vent and there'll be cold air coming though right? (I hope) I did take the blower though because I noticed it has 4speeds instead of 3 Can anyone tell me if this housing swap will work, or do I need to go back?

Yes I've always thought that low gears were not all that great with a turbo because of the limited experience I've had with turbos (I drove my friend's dodge 2.5 turbo and I found that it seemed to accelerate on the highway in 5th gear just as fast as if you had downshifted into 4th.. (in 4th it reved up higher, but in 5th the turbo seemed to kick in harder) but on the other hand why does the 200sx turbo have 4.11 gears? The reason I ask is because I recently located a 4.11 ratio for my Z but I'm gonna be converting to a L28t. Is it worth it to go to the 4.11? or would it just be a waste? (I have 3.54 with a 83 5spd 2.8 N/A now and it is a dog off the line)

Ok I was at the wrecking yard today and they have a 75z with factory air, Well it would be awesome to stick that in my 76z! My question is this.. What exactly do I need from this car to make this swap? I understand AC systems quite well and I'm not really concerned too much with the components under the hood but under the dash concerns me.. Is the entire heating venting system different? Different blower, heater core perhaps? Tell me what I need to be taking from this car other than the evaporator. Also do Z's use a valve or capillary tubes to control the freon? Like I said I'm not really concerned about the under hood stuff as I already have a couple 280zx compressors, condensers, ect laying around and I can always wire up relays and stuff aferwards. I am planning on going back tomorrow so a swift reply would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!

I'm not sure if that is your problem, but it is possible. There is a vacuum line at the rear of your transmission, between the hose and the tranny is a small metal canister called a modulator valve. If the valve is faulty it can allow ATF to be sucked up into the intake manifold a burned. It should be a fairly easy job to replace the modulator though.

I'm not much of a photographer (I don't even own a camera) but I'll see if I can get my hands on my buddies digital camera. I took a few pictures of my Z with it before, however that was just after the car was painted (and about two days before the mirrors went on)

I have power 83zx mirrors on my 76 I used them because they seemed to work better than any of the other mirrors out there because most of them have a flat mounting surface. I didn't want the stock mirror because they are only available on the drivers side (unless you look overseas) They look ok, although they seem to lean outward a little too much. That is the type of thing you'll only notice if you look really closely at.

I've got a idea for a AWD setup in a Z but it involves using a GM V6 and a very hard to get transmision(probably like a holy grail, or a hen's tooth!)... Use a powertrain from a Pontiac 6000 AWD. You'd have to figure a way to use FWD steering knuckles (for the CV axles) and then run a drive shaft to the rear axle (that should be the hard part right guys? ) Of course I don't know what kind of gear ratio would match a AWD 6000?? Also I'm sure a 3.1 Zcar wouldn't be enuf power for most of you boys.. (maybe a 3.4 or 3.8V6 would bolt up to that tranny??) add a blower or turbo and I'm sure it would have enuf power to get out of a V8Z's way! What do you guys think of that idea? "build it and they will come"

After reading this post I couldn't resist, I went out and had a looksy under my (84) Maxima and I seemed to have found a hen's tooth! (a bolt on caliper bracket) So it seems that some magical year yet to be determined, would seem to be... yet to be determined! It could also have something to do with the fact that my car is a Canadian model though?? I specifically bought a 84 because it is the last year of the L24 engine yet the only one with a 4spd automatic with O/D Anyway, back to the brake stuff, how much can the early Z brakes really be improved apon? I've heard comments in the past about how the "brakes in a Zcar suck" but I have stock brakes and I can easily send my passenger through the windshield if they aren't ready for it! I am all for having more stopping power though, just wondering how much there is to be gained.

I didn't know you had a Nissan connection Richard! (This is in Canada?) I haven't even gotten around to looking into a rebuild yet. I just got my custom made ZXT engine stand (Lets you run the engine right on the stand) but I haven't even tried to fire it up yet. Can you tell me how much you paid for rings, bearings and gaskets?

I drive a Yamaha Virago, and I have experienced that a great deal of HD riders will stick their nose up at it (and me)because it isn't "made in the usa" and I find that to be a big joke (especially seeing that I live in Canada) They seem to think that if it ain't a Harley, it ain't a bike! Ignorance breeds only more ignorance.. I've rode a couple Harleys and I'll stick with the jap bikes thank you. I wonder if these people understand the history behind this prejuduce? It goes back to the fiftys when bikers really got started (and WW2 fresh in everybodys mind) Ever wonder why a guy on a British Triumph will always be accepted by a group of HD riders? but certainly never a jap bike, or a German made BMW for that matter! Could it possibly be issues from a war that was fought over half a century ago? Or is it because they are not threatened by the British bike because it is the only thing more crude than a HD? Ok so this is my humorous way of looking at it, and I really don't mean to offend anyone. I personally don't mind debate, as long as it remains a intelligent one and people don't start getting upset about it.

Other than grabbing all stuff that runs the engine.. (fuel pump, wiring harness AFM, ect.) On a zxt you would find CV style halfshafts (you'd need a adapter to use them) turbo cars also came with 15" wheels rather than the 14" Also collapsable spare (if you are concerned about weight)

I had a 73 240z a few years ago that had the corner valence parts from a 280z, so I imagine as long as you have all the nessasary parts... (grill, valence, bumper,signal lites)no problem!

Funny I was just talking to a buddy about doing something like that.. No doubt it works awesome for holding the car! However it is a "parking" brake, but it is also a "emergency" brake. If you have the hydraulics fail, you have no mechanical backup?

Wow, that's awesome! Love to see the pics (and a little more info on the system you are running) You are building the car of the future, today!

Maybe that tool loaner program that Canadian Tire has would include breaker bars?