GrayZee

Thanks for the quick reply! Ok you set my mind at ease. I can't wait to do the swap. Looking forward to the improved throttle response and powerband not to mention the gas mileage! First I have to get the ecu re-programmed as I am using a 89 NA ecu. I was told that the timing advance on a NA ecu would be way too aggressive for a turbo engine.

This may be a stupid question but if you swapped pins 108 and 16 because they are reversed on the z31 and you needed a (-) trigger to run the fuel pump relay that much I can understand, but from following the wiring harnesses it looks like the air regulator uses a ignition sourced feed (+) and is triggered by a (-) pulse from the Ecu on both the 280zx and 300zx harnesses therefore wouldn't the air regulator not work if you wired it up this way? Wouldn't that just feed a (+) pulse to a (+) feed wire?

I'm gonna be going to the z31 ecu shortly and yes you can use the stock injectors. If you use 370+cc injectors you should re-program your computer. From what I understand the computer can also be "tweaked" to perform better even if you are still running stock injectors. The best ecu's to run are the 87-89 units. After I get my walbro fuel pump working I'm gonna slap in some 420cc injectors.

No, I haven't done anything more to it yet as I'm still waiting for the fuel pump I ordered. I live in Canada and sometimes ordering parts from the U.S. is a real PITA. I want to have the pump mounted in the sending unit to make sure I have the correct mounting height. Once that is figured out we'll install some sort of baffle system and weld the top plate to the tank. I'll keep you posted.

That's cool about the 300zxtt fuel pump being so powerful and having the baffles built in. I had no idea. However like I said, I went to autometer gauges and liked the GM idea because I could get a sending unit calibrated to funtion with a with a standard autometer ohm reading (0-90ohms) Mind you, I have no idea what kind of ohm reading you'd get from the nissan 300zxtt sending unit. Maybe it's a good match? I dunno? Another concern was the cost. I'm betting that a brand new nissan pump is VERYYY expensive! The pump I got was $209 canadian dollars and the sending unit was just under $100CND, my guess is that the Nissan pump would be easily more than double the cost. The Walbro/Holley 255 liter per hour pump will be more than enough fuel for anything that I'm gonna do with my car.

Hmm.. that's interesting, maybe the old 280's never did prime the fuel lines? If that's true it's a crappy design if you ask me. I would definatly re-wire the system like the 280zx's if that is the case.

I had similar problems with my 76 280z. The fuel pump was always funny about priming, especially if it had been sitting for a long time. I sometimes would have to crawl under there with a motorcycle battery and some really small cables to "jump start" the fuel pump. Once the engine was running it would be fine unless the car sat for several days. I always assumed that something was wrong with the fuel pump relay but I never did get around to changing it. Instead I did a turbo swap, used the zxt relay and never had a problem since. The original fuel pump relay is located under the dash above where the hood release cable is. Not a very easy thing to remove. If I had to fix that problem now, I think I would just find out which wire from the ECU triggers the relay and wire up a new relay with a feed wire coming from the battery (with a fuse) and straight under the car along the brake lines to the fuel pump. With a ground wire running back up to the battery.

I found this on the net, crazy stuff.. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=1107178&perpage=40&pagenumber=1

I was thinking about maybe making a access panel in the hatch but first I'll see how it lines up in the car vs. where exactly the hole would have to be. As for the baffles the 240z tank only has one baffle plate running across the center of the tank, so what I plan to do is get a piece of 4"or 5" pipe in a really thin gauge and weld it to the bottom of the tank so that in surrounds the pump inlet. The bottom of the tank is tapered in a V shape anyway so if I place it flush to the bottom and weld it there should still be a opening at the bottom, perhaps too big of a opening but I can always fill it using a filler rod (tig weld)

What do you guys think of my tank? http://members.shaw.ca/icecube/Ztank/ I cut the top off of a 240z tank, got a GM fuel sending unit from the local parts store and welded on a lazer cut flange so the pump assembly could be bolted to the tank. I'm not finished with the job yet as I'm stalled out waiting for a new fuel pump. I'm gonna be using a Holley #12-914 it's a 255LPH forced induction application pump designed for use with a Buick Regal Grand National. I figure that should solve my fuel starvation problems (especially when going around corners) Not only that, I swapped out my original gauges for Autometer ones. So rather than going with the typical Ford style 73-12ohm fuel level gauge and running resistors to get a good reading, I picked up a GM style 0-90ohm gauge to match the GM sending unit. Thus solving two problems at the same time (hopefully everthing will work out)

wow, looks nice Drax! it's sure come a long way from when I saw it wayyyy back in (when was that?) 2001??

As you might have seen in a earlier post, I'm putting a z31 turbo engine in my 87 pathfinder. I pulled the turbo engine and harness, borrowed a haynes manual from a buddy but there really aren't any good wiring diagrams explaining where to tap the injection harness to the main harness. The 280zx haynes manual has a awesome diagram, but the 300zx one really bites. If anyone can tell me info on this harness it would be much appreciated. Also, the injection harness plugs into a electronic box mounted underneath the battery tray.. Can anyone tell me what that box is?

Ok, that makes sense, thanks for the reply man.

Ok, if the PCV valve is at the bottom of the intake what is that thing on the top under the throttle rail? It's connected to the tree of hoses that lead to the AAC, air switch and Jpipe. I'm gonna start taking unesessary stuff off but I don't know what the that thing is.. Looks like a extra PCV valve to me, can someone explain it's pupose please?

I have a 280z with the original NA clutch and so far so good, I've lauched the car (ended up spinning the tires all the way through 1st gear) Clutch held up fine. I have a turbo flywheel ready for when it does go however.

znow white, check your PM's as for the pilot bushing you can get one at any local parts store for about $2

nah, I didn't think you were being negative, I realise that you gotta weigh out out how difficult the task will be and you were just trying to point out things that I might not have considered. As for the KA manifold yes it was made by a buddy of mine here locally. Check out the DP he made for my Z http://members.shaw.ca/icecube/DPclose.jpg http://members.shaw.ca/icecube/DPside.jpg

Thanks Kenny, I dunno why I but a z32 twin never even occured to me! btw slownrusty I appreciate you pointing out the possible problems, as for the fabrication skills I think I'll be relying alot on the guy who made this custom turbo exhaust manifold for a 240sx http://members.shaw.ca/icecube/KAturbo.jpg

Ok, I took some pics of my DP. Sorry I didn't adjust the pixels on the camera cuz the pics are over a MB anyway, here's the links... http://members.shaw.ca/icecube/DPclose.jpg http://members.shaw.ca/icecube/DPside.jpg

When you grabbed the injection harness, did you get the two relays that were plugged into it? (efi and fuel pump relays) There are also three plugs on the injection harness that form the link to the main harness. It might be a idea to cut the opposing sides of those plugs off the main harness to give you something to work with without having to cut into the injection harness. You said you wanted to cut out the emmision crap so I dunno if you want to take the VCM (vacuum control module) it controls the EGR (emmision crap) but it also runs the AAC (idle control) Alot of people don't run them but just a thought. If you have a oil cooler I assume that the zx was a automatic. You'll have to remove the spacer from the end of the crankshaft and install a pilot bushing before you put on a standard flywheel.

Yeah the member you are refering to is "warrenp" I emailed him a few times for some info on the subject. The main problem is the exhaust crossover pipe that goes around the top of the tranny. Warren solved that by installing a 3" lift kit and doing some slight hammering to the firwall. The steering shaft problem was solved by using a spacer between the steering box and the frame. He told me that his engine is installed and everything, but he's not too sure about wiring up the new injection harness so it's been sitting for a while. I aready did a l28et swap in to my 76z so the wiring problem shouldn't be a big concern for me. I'll email him my wiring info once I've figured it all out. (if he still needs it) Originally I was thinking of solving the clearance problems the same way Warren did but now I thinking of trying to make some custom manifolds and have the crossover pipe come around the front of the engine as there seems to be lots of room for that in the pathfinder. Who knows? maybe I'll even try to get my hands on some smaller turbos and make a twin setup? Nissan made a pulsar 1.5 with a turbo I believe? What other cars would have a turbo on about a 1500cc engine?

I just bought a 84 300zx turbo parts car (engine's going into my 87 pathfinder) but I also wanted to use some of the parts to do a 5bolt conversion on my 76 280z. (it has completely stock suspension and brakes) I understand that the 300zx front hubs will fit the 280 with some sort of seal modification? What do you do at that point with the brakes? do I have to use the 300 rotors with the 280 calipers? or do I need to use the 300 calipers? Could someone clear this up for me please? Also, what about the rears? I know I'll have to re-drill the flanges and install new studs then use a spacer to bring the offset out, but I guess it's a mandatory rear disc swap at that point? can/should I use the 300 rear discs? what's better? a maxima bracket/280zx caliper (I can get these parts) or is the 240sx caliper kit a better bet?

I got a really good deal on a rusty old 84 300zx turbo, gonna take the engine and swap it into my 87pathfinder. I know it won't just bolt right in but a few mods and I think it'll happen. I figure I'll need to make a new left engine mount, and possibly make some custom exhaust manifolds but I'll keep you guys posted if anyone is interested.

I have a 3" SS downpipe with 45 degree bends it immediatly starts out with a 2.5" to 3inch "cone" then a short straight run before the first 45. It's installed on a 76z and it's a REALLY tight fit but still acceptable. If I have time tomorrow I'll post a pic.

C'mon! NOBODY remembers the pic I'm talking about??