twistex

yeh I see .. I built this motor 8 years ago got alot of the machining I got done through friends at machine shops.. i built the whole motor for 2500! friend ground the cams, and my head is based off the rebello head with 181 intake valve and 150 exhaust. this motor has been basically brought back from sitting for over 8 years. I have 3140 miles on the motor before I stoped driving it with fuel injection. so anyways I basically used the ld block for the taller deck to fit the longer rods in.

the ld28 block has thicker walls .. plus i sleeved mine incase i ever screw up a sleeve i can just put a new one in! diesel blocks are built bullet proof i hear. see most people run turbo block .. but can only run the 5.75 240z rods .. the ld28 block is .25 taller then the turbo block. so i can run a 6 inch rod

well see i have a fidanza alum flywheel 9 lbs i think but right now i have like a 11 lb or 13 lb lightend flywheel. car isnt fully tuned yet .. i have a centerforce clutch on there right now with a 280zx trany from a 83. well see i may end up just putting a rb25det into this z who knows. plus i have 2 other cams that are bigger that the one in it right now. just a mild on is it right now for when i use to have fuel injection on it. that manifold is a mikuni style yes, that i port matched to the 1.5 intake ports on head.. i uploaded a bigger longer video on video.gooles site .. they have to aprove it before i can get the link to post. i will keep you all informed!

yeh man .. sounds nice .. i had a full walk around video of car as it was idling but to hard to get it to upload to these free file places! anyways yeh i cant wait to take it out on the road! i need coilovers first!

well finally put up a video of my car reving up a little bit. the motor has triple sk racing 45mm carbs, big cam, big valves, header, knifedge crank, lightend flywheel, long rods ka pistons 90mm , this engine can see 8k np! hope you enjoy. link here ! http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-2382048404444900926&q=240z The original video was like 150 meg avi i wish i could put the whole video but i couldnt get streetfire to work right !

I just put a set of 45mm sk racing carbs on my 3.2 liter last night and fired it up this morning. runs great.. getting them sync'd together seems to be the big hastle .. havnt been able to get it on the road yet im also doing some suspenion work. i wana bring it to the dyno also so i can fine tune it. I could see daily driving sidedrafts mikuni sk or webers. I use to daily drive my 510 and 1200 with both mikuni and weber sidedrafts on ka24de twin cam motors no problem. Put it this way if somone gave me the option to have efi or a heater in my z i would probably pick a heater ! hahaha

not to change subject but i was going to attempt a 240sx full suspension swap all the way around on my 240z. i was going to measure the width on the framrails from both cars to see if i could actually get a 240sx xmember to bolt it and place a rb motor in the car and modify my steeing shaft with u joints to get the 240sx power steering and everything to bre funtional. also wanted to do the 240sx rear subframe. well ok .. i know you could make a 240z have nice big brakes and all but i figured getting coilovers all the way around for 240sx suspension would be easier .. also 5 lug conversions. z32 brakes and so on. well anyone ever attempted the front suspension conversion ?

yeh i wana see some numbers .. still i havnt found anyone who runs the ld28 block and crank combo like i did! you can run the longer rod and its safer to bore. im running 45mm sk racing carbs on mine. mine sees 8k no problem. i need to make it down to the dyno! these motors love to rev when you have a light flywheel, balanced and knife edged crank. one of the fastest reving engines i have ever seen.

just build your own 3.2 ld28 block and crank <--- get knife edged and balanced, 6 inch rods, l20b front cover, and 1mm over ka pistons. well and the oil relocation ****, and mods to the block, but yeh ! badass motor.

i ment i need to know what to jumper on the pcb board to make the pin 24 work with the negative coil.

ok im tryin to get my megasquirt up and running. i been reading to test board with the tester you have to jump x11 to x whatever but then it says to undo it and jumper x11 to spr4 so the - coil signal will work. anyone have a easier way of explainin how to get it to work ? im using the black dizzy module dist. using megasquirt for fuel only, not spark. thanks

personally i would presure wash the whole engine bay to see where the suff is leaking. could just be as simple as the valve cover gasket. If the head gasket is not blown why replace it ? if you do i never had problem with felpro, but im using a hks multi layer coper gasket. for bore size issues. might as well do thermostat flush coolent , change oil , trany fluid the whole 9 yards. The headbolts you can get from a parts store i believe, but i have never had any personal issues with headbolts being bad.. they may strech. some people go get the turbo headbolts from a zxt from the junkyards because there stronger. you can get a straight edge and put it across the clean surface of your head and use a feeler gauge to see if your head is warped. anymore then 4 thousandths and i would get it decked. people will have different opinions on this. buy a manual also i use chilton before but i tend never to look at them. the felpro intake and ex gasket have big ports so for instance i dont have to hog out teh gasket to match my head and intake wich is nice.. anyways you should get some info from me and other posts. good luck

nawi think i will keep the zip ties LOL .. j.k .. yeh well i heard that if you dont soft mount with rubber the chasis are known to flex and you can crack or brakes the radiators ? i doubt that will happen anytime soon. problem with tig welding is i dont have a tig welder. im currently in tig welding class and its funny cause i was just learnin how to weld alum last night .. my weld came out pretty nice ! thanks for input.

ok well i read about the arizona z radiator, the jtr one. personally i sen the jtr its cool it fits perfect in between teh stock frame rails. dist inside to inside of frame rail is 25.50 inches .. jtr radiator is 25.25 anyways its like 140 then another 60 for the mount kit. so 200 bucks for direct bolt in radiator. well i wanted to be different and gamble a little bit. i ordered a 18.5 tall 22 wide raditor all alum tig welded from afco. anyways pics are just showing it where i want it held by zip ties lol. anyways it is for a gm i belive but inlet and outlet are how i wanted it. i will keep you posted. if anyone has one of these installed let me know how you mounted. up for suggestions. thanks front Inside Top Top Front anyways there we go. I also need to get a fan maybee a push and a pull electric not sure yet.

adam .. ok i used the hole in firewall that the ball joint stock linkage went through for the cable. drilled 2 holes 1 top 1 bottome and bolted it to the firewall. then i used the 240z pedal. to use the 240z pedal you must remove it. take the ball joint off it. drill a hole big enough for the cable to fit through where the ball use to sit on the pedal. then if you notice you must bed the area you drilled hole at the right angle so when you gas it it will pull cable straight back. then you adjust the pedal stoper on your floorpan so you dont like screw up your tb. oh btw after you put the acell cable in the hole you drilled in the pedal you must somehow attach somthing to cable to keep it in place so when you throttle it will actually pull and open throttle body. what i used was this little tiny sleave with thread inside that a little bolt screws into .. in center of the sleave is a hole big enough for cable. adjust and tighten. i wish i could have taken pics before i installed everything.. it would be much much much easier with pics i explained the best i could.

here are the pictures . 240sx throttle cable mounted to firewall the modified 240sx throttle shaft and linkage. The Engine shot 3.2 ld28 block and crank.

ok sounds good .. i would rather have direct port anyways i was just curious. and i realize that nos aint flamable its when heat is aplied and when it breaks down. anyways. also i wonder if they make injectors that would work with z manifold that have the nos built in to flow threw the injector. anyone seen those ? well .. anyways my car isnt even running right now anyways so well see.

i was thinking of doing NOS but i hear that if your intake manifold isn't designed to flow fuel and just air that if you run a wet shot into your intake at the tb that it could possibly puddle up and cause an exsplosion. thats if you dont run direct port to each cyl. anyone have any comments or seen how othe people have done wet shots or dry shots before the tb or at the tb?

evildky just get a hose reducer for the bigger end .. unless the tight end is like seriously way way to tight! its a little rubber sleve that slides into the end of hose .. gives it a smaller inner diameter

i used 240sx cable and tb and modified the linkage shaft to make it shorter and ground my intake cyl 1 runner a little to let everything clear. i used the stock 240z pedal bye drilling out the joint ball and bending the top sideway and pus the cable throught that and fastend cable there and adjusted at the tb with a bracket i made.. i will shoot some pics.

when i hook up my tps it dont get to the ecu .. i traced the signal wire to ecu and it works .. so im guessing i built my megasquirt wrong. i get a signal at the tps but not to my ecu .. gets to the end of ecu plug but not into ecu .. when im in tuning software also i have the tach signal wire hooked up to the neg on coil .. but i read you have to connect like xg1 and xg2 to make theat work right or somthing. i dont know anyone have ideas

well when i turn on key my injetors all click .. and everything and im able to login to my ecu with my laptop using megatune or megasquirt software and says conn ected but when i set constants to whateve ri think is right for 6 cyl .. when i try to start it it fires for a sec then dies .. its weird .. well i dont have my tps hooked up or my o2 sensor .. i just wana see if my ecu works. anyone know if tps and o2 being disconnected would keep it from starting ? im going to hook up tps tomarrow and weld a o2 bung on my header .. also anyone know what kinda things i should put in my constants for a 3.2 inline 6 with turbo injectors ?

oh i already finished it took my 5 1/2 hours total time well maybee faster next time .. how can i test without that testing thing ? i was thinking to ground and add power and i seen a light blink .. then maybee serial into it ? and see if i can access it with a megasquirt application ? anyone know .. thanks

well i ordered the kit from them cause i was trying to save money! well nothing bad to say about them i got it in mail really fast and packaged nice and everything. only downside is no instrustions .. they tell you where to look so i looked around anyways on the circuit board it shows how its supose to be installed and then on packaging they give you heights and whatnot. what im getting at is i wish i would have just paid the extra $100 for a complete tested assembled unit lol .. oh well i guess i learned my lession i didnt realize how much soldering there is. im about 1/4 way done i spent about 2 hours on it so far. anyone else build your own 2.2 ? if so any usefull websites beside megasquirt.info and the other few ?

well i guess i will run stock dizzy with mechanical advance .. i normally cap off the vacume advance and set timing to 10 - 12 idle and 30 to 36 full advance .. any suggestions .. also if i run durbo dist i can controll spark for say rev limit ? also can you controll timing advance with the turbo dist and megasquirt ? well i think the stock dizzy would be easier especially since i got on on motor .. man i can find turbo dist anyware!