twistex

Nice swap. I currently in the process of doing the same swap. One thing I noticed when I dropped motor in place and bolted it up is that the crank is not center in the car. If you look at it from front the pulley and whole motor is more towards the passenger side. This is the same in the pictures you took of your swap. Is there a reason for this ? I always mocked up and made mounts with the motor center. Please fill me in if this is how its suppose to be. Thanks Rich

Sorry I ment -10 an fitting not -6. also yeh i understand the pan part! thats what i wanted to do and extend the pickup tube. This guy wants to do a rb25det in future and because the pickup tubes are discontinued now he didn't want me to modify the pickup tube. I told him i could make him another one later if he does rb25 but yeh. this job was a nightmare from hell.

Hi, the mod worked perfectly. I cranked it a couple of times with cas unpluged. Then I hooked up the cas it fires up and looking into valve cover cap i could see oil whipping off the cam lob. I was going to drill block 2 times and run external line incase you need to change your oil pump in future you wouldn't have to weld another -6 line to it. btw i never want to go through all this trouble again unelss its for a rb26.

Took matters into my own hands. Figured I will share what i did. This seems to be the best way I could think of. May be more work but I think it will be reliable enough. Then the -10 oil line will come out side of block pulling through the oil pickup and run along the block with oil hose to the oil pump that I pulled the freeze plug deal out of and welded a -10 fitting to.

EDIT topic is 200zr I have a rb20det from a awd skyline. I have a rwd rb20det 5 speed behind it. I tried to install the z31 200zr rear sump oil pan and pickup tube to find out that the pickup tube location is different. The passage on the side of block for oil does not go far enought to the other pickup tube location. That means a external oil line would need to be ran and the other pickup tube location would have to be drilled. has anyone ran into this problem ? thanks Rich

I'm looking for something thicker. does the engine vibration transfer to chassis though the studs?

I have done this with 240sx motor mounts. use gloves some spit and some 3m window poly works like a dream lol.

I have been on the lookout for a hockey puck style mount. Basically a round polyurethane mount that has a stuff on each side center. I have found Volvo mounts that would work but no one makes an aftermarket style. Energy suspension/prothane will not do such a thing. If anyone know a aftermarket mount or somewhere to purchase somthing like this please let me know. Mount need to be roughly 1.75 to 2.25 wide and 2 to 3 inch tall. Thanks here is a example of a volvo motor mount. and these mounts will work for my application but are way to soft.

i get rb clips local for 1200.. even to ship would cost 300 to 400 .. so 2100 is over priced. LS1 is the way to go

I have done sr20det, rb20det, rb25det, l28et , l30et, l30e, l32e, ls1, 350sbc, 7mgte swaps in 240 260 and 280z's. The turbo swaps were always fun because you can turn up boost tune it and get that like feeling of acceleration. The 350 sbc was fun but not practical for the person they ended up selling it because they said the fumes were to bad lol. The rb people seemed to like there cars and loved the smooth sounds and revs over the l28e or et. The sr20det I did was nice .. alot of room to work with and basically made it a mid engine car. The rb/sr conversions made it easy to use 240sx dash and clusters with these engines to have a modern speed sensor and tach. Water temp as well as cel were able to be used as well. Ls1 was one of my favs because of the instant trq it produced andthe smile it put on my face when i first rolled on the throttle. Got to love the 6 speed and decent gas milege. i ono i fee like im taking to much BYE.

my intake manifold had a shaft that went across with linkage that went to each carb. i welded a tb pully from a ka or sr tb and made a bracket to hold a 240sx/sentra or of right length. drilled 2 holes in firewall, bolted it up and moded the pedal to hold the end of cable.

i want one to put my 3.2 liter stroker in .. so it wil be smog exempt in cali u can have the crank I already got 3 of em lol.

I will have to agree it is a nice feeling to know you have accomplished something. After you complete something like this your next wiring nightmare will not so much be one! Everyone you do from here on out will be so much easier.. things you will see and notice.. its crazy. The engine harness of a motor is not that complicated if you know the few things about it and how the computer and sensors work. I have wired ka24e de sr20de det s13 s14 rb20 rb25 rb26 ls1 lt1 ls6 you name it and everything is pretty close as far as the basic things. constant 12v, switched 12v, start signal, injector power, o2 sensor and idle air motor power etc. Some people are just outright scared of wiring and state that the car will melt down if they touch it. I remember about 10 year ago when I was going to hook up an electric fan in my datsun 510. I hooked ground to battery .. well back then i didn't know you could just hook it to chassis because the chassis is grounded.. the power wire inside cabin into a switch and from switch to the positive side of the battery! WOW ... I soon learned after that a simple relay would do me so much better and well that switch for my fan would have had a happier life and wouldn't have been so hot with all that current flowing through it. Glad to see peoples wiring success stories.

sorry but if you search on here people have posted plenty of threads that talk about what turbo you can run. from what I remember borg warner made some turbos you can get and holset if your lucky off a dodge diesel.

schmucks lol .. anyways yeah I have run into that issue. What they see in there little computer of wisdom is intake being the intake gasket and the exhaust gasket they see is actually the exhaust manifold downpipe flange gasket. The 3 bolt deal. I tell them NO the intake and exhaust are on the same side!! It's one gasket not two. I tell them to pull the gasket and wallaahh

well i found out some bad news. I ran the part number on the side of his "420cc bosch" injectors. 0 280 150 036 !!!! well those are actually 380cc injectors. Well he has the jwt 420cc cobra maf package! I'm guessing he bought the wrong injectors or were sent the wrong ones. being 40cc of make a huge difference ? When I get it all back up and running im going to set timing, base fuel pressure at 36psi and for every psi of boost 1 psi fuel pressure. Obviously I need to get some 420cc injectors in mean while. I was thinking the 430cc supra injectors but I believe you need a custom rail for those.

see i had already thought about that. Then when you are at wot your tps voltage will not read as high from what i have noticed. Wouldn't that cause an issue ?

yes yes true. This car has been through way to many hands.. the whole car is like a mystery.

Yes you are completely correct! I did take some time out on the search feature to read some of your posts about basing on head gasket company's and most time its just the installer not cleaning or prepping this correctly or just bad tuning. Now that I think about it I think I heard detonation.. but you know what I'm thinking.. jwt ecu blah blah blah should be fine with these injectors and maf yada yada yada. I will put this all back together and turn the hks manual boost controller completely down so its at 7psi and im going to go dyno it and see the afr. I called jwt btw and asked them if there any updates for my tune and he said there has been 2 updates. Mainly because the fuel has changed since 2000 ? You think it would be worth sending the chip in for them to re tune ? maybe send the dyno sheet back with the 28 pin chip from ecu and pay them $100 big ones. The funny part is ever since this customer has had this car from day 1 in 1999 in a 280zx chassis it has never been intercooled and he said he was running 18 psi. Blew first motor on drive home from l.a to bay area cali. This is where his nightmare started lol. So I figured wow he has the bigger injectors, the cobra maf, the 300zx ecu tuned from jwt, now a intercooler thats cooling the air it should be fine at 15. Obviously not. Thanks for your input but Your 100 percent on the detonation obviously. I know 76 fuel has to suck balls because every time I would pump 76 gasoline 91 oct into my sr20det it would run so bad!

first thing I noticed was the 3 bolt style N/A downpipe flange gasket on a l28et gasket set ?

interesting.. well now that i think about it your correct. I know on a sr20det the idle air tube runs under intake mani and couples itself to a tube on the cold pipe going into throttle body. How should i hook it up ? I know that when tb is completely closed the tps is set at like .45 or so. And only way to get enough air into the intake manifold is using a idle air type deal.. that comes from the intercooled air that has already been metered by the maf. Should I weld a little tube coming off my cold pipe at throttle body and hook it up there ?

Well let me add to this.. I'm hoping it wasn't detonation that cause this head gasket failure . Once I do get this car up and running again I'm sure going to check base timing and toss it on dyno and check out the afr and tell customer that 12psi for now until then.

well.. I have a customers car thats equipped with a 3.0 with forged pistons and all that jazz. Well I installed a front mount, hks bov, 3" exhaust " took off the flowmaster lol." lsd install, electric fan, removed a/c and clutch fan whatever. The 60mm ka throttle body has a hole drilled in it to make it idle im guessing ? They had the idle air motor deal capped off so I hooked it up to the intake tube on turbo. Idles great now. Anyways he has a hybrid type t3 on it and a external turbonetics waste gate. Boost with flowmaster on was about 8psi when I got the car. After all the crap I did to it.. it was holding about 11 or 12. He calls me and says when he first got the car he was running 18 psi. I told him well .. I would rather see it on a dyno before I turn up the boost. He tells me to turn it up to 15. I turn it up to 14 and wow it blew the head gasket so bad compression was shooting out the side of the head between block on turbo side. Pulled spark plugs and did compression test and it was shooting water out of the 2nd and 3rd cyl across my shop! Anyways what it all boils down to is why would someone run a fel-pro? Now this is suppose to be a rebello motor built in 2000. 3.0 with forged pistons.. well I don't see a hks gasket under this head! I think he got jacked from the old shop he took it to and got charged 5500 for a rebuilt crap motor! Other things I noticed while taking the head off was on the exhaust side the head bolts that travel through the cam towers had 2 washers under the turbo head bolts but all others had 1 and one of the cam towers had 1 .. thinking .. would dave do this ? also the 12mm head cam tower bolts all are nissan except one looks like a ace or osh hardware bolt... would dave do this ? Also the p90a head was converted to solid lifter and has a billet cam in side that says hks on it . This car came equipped with a 7th hks style injector but was later swapped out for a jwt 300zx computer, 450cc injectors, cobra maf. well I'm looking into some head gasket choices and well only gaskets I can seem to locate are the nismo .60 mm head gaskets 1mm and 2mm are no longer getting sold. What are people doing lately for headgaskets ?

Instead of starting a new thread I thought I would bring this one back from the dead. You all may know me from putting a 3.2 in my 240sx.. yes yes yes I'm already hating the 45mm side drafts on it. hmm do I waist my time with the fuel injection ? Or do I keep letting my girlfriend tell me my 3.2 is a POS because of my poorly tuned side drafts. I try to tell her they bog but thats because I'm going for top end. Shes use to EFI and well yes.. I'm use to efi since I spoiled myself with ka24de and e injected datsun 510's and ls1 powered 240sx's. I really would like to keep this 3.2 in my car because I don't want to let it sit in my shop and not get any use. I will later swap this into a 79 2dr 810. Anyways lets get back on track here. Today I went to the yard and got myself a 1987 N/A Z31 Engine harness, ecu, maf, tps, o2 sensor, coil, cas wheel, injectors. I also have 280zxt dist and oil pump shaft. My plan is to rewire the z31 harness to adapt it to fit my l-series with a efi non egr manifold i have with ka 60mm throttle body. From the looks of the z31 harness it gets its power and has relays for efi right next to the battery tray on the z31. Does anyone have any input or doubt that this will not work ? I figured because my motor is a 3.2 that a z31 setup would get me close enough to drive around for a bit until I could tune ecu and upgrade maf and all that. I'm sure the 280zxt harness would have been a better option! I cant seem to find any that haven't been cut or destroyed. I know this may not give me the ultimate power and all that I just want to get the motor running nice and smooth and figure things out later. thanks.

As Far as the engine shaking badly is probably due to the fact the carb's are not synced properly.I would also not turn out those adjustment screws 2.5 that is to much. From what I have read and noticed on my own is that if you have to turn them more then 2 turns to get an idle its to lean of a idle jet. If you only have like 1 turn out to idle its to rich. I would try turning them out 1.5. Back out all the throttle plates out and start over just opening each one a little bit and make sure when you press gas pedal they all open at same time and evenly. You should be able to play with it while someone is starting it to get it to idle. I use a air flow sync tool that lets me sync them pretty good. Also I would pop the covers off and check the floats. One time I to got a clean set of side drafts and my engine wouldn't run correctly. I took the tops off to notice that one of the carb's float was installed upside down! If you know your getting fuel into the carb's, I would also clean out all the jets and such. Good Luck.