Gareth. J.

Nice build so far. I have an almost identical oil pan, so far I have put 8.3 Litres into it and oil level is still under the low mark. Do you know the recommended oil capacity?

Thanks Randy, I'll post up results but it may be a while yet. Hehe.

Just an update, this won't fit a 240z with the standard crossbrace. So looks like I'll be going a custom made brace similar to R200 finned cover mod. I have a late model 240z with the curved moustache bar.

Yeah spot on Randy, I have a wide band air fuel meter installed already and I think it would've been a nightmare without it. I can't wait for the unique idle rattle and induction roar! The current carbs are 42mm Keihin cv's from a honda blackbird, initial jet sizes were around 160ish, it ran but with no real guts. After nine jet changes and drilled out slides, I finally settled on 220mains. The FCR's are a whole different ball game though and infinitely adjustable. Fingers crossed they are as easy to tune. I was actually thinking of removing the accelerator pump plunger rods for tuning, this should give me a more accurate view of the 'real' fuel mix, then reconnect them when it gets close. what do you think, have you heard of people doing this before? Cheers, Gareth.

Will do, thanks again for all the help gents.

Thanks one and all, you chaps are a wealth of knowledge. I'm not running an oil cooler yet and not entirely sure if I need one. I only do club sprint track days which usually see no more than 15 laps in a session. Also I just use the stock main bolts so shouldn't have any problems with clearance. If I understand this correctly 8 quarts will put me at the high mark on the dip stick, which will be above the windage tray when the engine hasn't run, then when the engine is running it'll have about 1 quart in the gallaries, filter etc. This will put me at 7 quarts in the sump which will mean the oil level is on the low mark and thats below the windage tray.

Thanks Tony.

Thanks John. Probably a stupid question but can I use the stock oil dip stick in this pan, and will I get the correct oil level in the pan using the standard high/low markings on the dip stick?

Hi guys, this is a pan I got VERY cheap from yahoo auctions japan a few weeks ago. It's never been used, was in storage and has tiny bits of surface rust on the inside. It looks similar to the pan above, does anyone know who makes these and what the oil capacity will be? Can I use my standard dip stick too? P.S. Sorry for the almighty thread revival Thanks, Gareth.

Thanks, John. Seems this guy has burnt customers before, with his attitude and non existent customer service I'm not surprised. Be warned! http://reviews.ebay.com/SCAM-WOLF-CREEK-RACING-ALERT?ugid=10000000000988862

Hey Guys, After fitting the RTZ diff mount with urethane bush I have noticed a clearance problem. With the car on stands, the suspension at full droop.... the sway bar is touching the diff pinion to prop shaft flange this wasn't happening with the ols solid mount. BTW it's a standard sway bar facing backwards. Will this be an issue? I do have a fair bit of pitch on track under heavy breaking and initial turn in. How do others with RTZ diff mount go?

I found a few other FCR41 setups with similar cubic capacity to my worked L29 running on average 185mains, 45 or 48 pilots, 200 main air, 100 pilot air, 2 turns on mix screw and the needle on the third clip. I have adjustable pilot air screws to help with tuning. This will probably be a good starting point that will run fairly well but won't have huge top end I suspect. Time will tell, stay tuned. Some pics of the setup so far... I had to buy them as two sets of four, then strip down to individual carb bodies and reassemble in the required spacing.

Does anyone know if I will need to mod the rear cross brace to clear finned cover?

It is brand new, so I would've expected a smooth surface. I specifically purchased this plain type as it is pictured on their website and also had plugs, it's not shown as the 'Perrin' type. I also asked for plain cast aluminium and instead received a gold powdercoated one. It's all little things that add up to make a small straight swap over to $50-100 exercise on top of original price. I would've expected some quality control on their behalf. When you look at the order Vs. what was actually sent you have to question what they did get right? At least it came to the right address! Lol. End of rant Do you guys have any recommendations for the sealant type? Would an RTV high temp be sufficient? Thanks for your help so far, Gareth.

Hey guys. I bought a new R180 finned diff cover from Wolf Creek Racing. When it arrived I noticed it looked a little rough, upon further inspection there's several issues needing attention and they have been unable/unwilling to give me solution to other than 'return it to us, pay for shipping and we'll waive the 15% restocking fee' WTF! Anyhow back to the topic at hand, the bottom edge and two lower bolt holes have what looks to be pitting or casting imperfections in them. I'm worried about the quality of the cast aluminium and weather it will hold up on my racecar or crack or leak and ruin my exspensive torsen LSD. They also didn't supply the drain/fill plugs clearly shown in the picture on their site. Thanks in advance, Gareth.

Hey guys, I'm going to be replacing my Keihin CV CBR1100XX carbs with new Keihin FCR41 carbs. I have had to get two sets of four which I will modify to become six. Just wondering if anyone has any knowledge on a good place to start with jetting sizes? Has anyone done it, seems to be quite a few in japan but nowhere else. I have an L28 over bored 1.5mm, 10:1 comp ratio, P90 head heavily worked with high lift cam, Stainless headers, Msd6al-2 and I'll make a custom manifold with 40mm I.D. pipe. Thanks, Gareth.

White Z's certainly do look the best. Here's my 73 Fairlady Z

Thanks, Not too bad for DIY carbs. I was running triple Dellortos, the bike carbs have way more torque down low, great throttle response, top end and all round driveability than the old setup did. I need some work done to the P90 head to see how they really go, atm it's an original F54/P90, 72deg cam, with extractors... Haven't been on dyno but it's reasonably quick, funny thing is I always seem to want more power. The linkages are great after the first balance it has been set and forget, bit of fidling with 9 changes in jet sizes. They are from 1999 Honda blackbird, which was the fastest production bike in the world when released. Hopefully some off that speed is in my Z now

It was a little time consuming to get it sorted, but they run like a dream and start instantly usind the original choke cable.

Hey Guys, I'm a newby from Australia. I have six 42mm Kiehin bike carbs on my L28 240z, I chopped up an old su manifold and welded 40mm aluminium tube to it on a spare cylinder head to get the angles correct. They have been on for 2yrs without needing to be balanced at all, knife edged shafts from the factory 42mm all the way through. Was fairly easy and cheap, around $500 aus all up.