Gareth. J.

Nice, I think the simple gauge face will look good in the dash. I feel your pain with any under dash work. Here's mine, It's a 432 copy. It's modern internals to cope with MSD6AL-2 ignition and a new 10K dial printed onto original face plate, all installed in the stock housing.

Here's my LD28 water pump and the modified timing cover to allow it to fit. I just used the new gasket that came with the pump as a template on the timing cover.

I had the same thing happen to me, My freshly rebuilt motor with deisel pump was one lap into the first track day and I used exactly the same method as you. I had done many months of road driving before the track day with no issues. I refitted another plug at the track to enable me to get home. Afterwards I ran a bead of JB Weld around all the plugs similar style to your picture above, no issues since. I applied it with an angled syringe to allow easier access under the headers.

There's many available from Japan. I got my Type 'A' spoiler landed from Japan for around $350 Aus IIRC. I have a track car that is still road registered and is driven on the road from time to time, the problem for me is height. The Gnose sticks out much further than stock, so you have lower clearance further from the front wheels which creates an ever decreasing gap when going up driveways or inclines. The spoilers look awesome as long as your car sits at a lowish height. The Type 'A' spoiler when fitted doesn't hang any lower than the very bottom of the Gnose, but it is another 150-200mm further foward than the lowest point, so the gap goes down again. I actually had to raise my font ride height from 100mm to 140mm just to get enough cleance for the Gnose on road without the spoiler fitted. I don't use the Type 'A' spoiler on the road for this very reason, but most Australian roads are crap. Type A pictured below. I believe brian at ZCCJDM has something similar to the type B style.

+1 Looks great

Well, I had no luck. The ZCCJDM standard tow hook won't fit the Gnose I have. It appears as if the turn/park signals are around 50mm closer together than the standard front end, long story short the tow hook hits the back of the turn park signal. I also have an aluminuim boxed out intake area so this will require much more thought.

Yeah, I had both of these from when I ran the standard front. Thinking I may just modify it, cutting the loop off the end and welding a straight piece on that comes out horizontally. Will put up some pics when I'm done.

Does anyone have pics of their tow hooks for a Gnose?

I also used these pads in my hilux front calipers, carried out the same welding mod too. Good track pad options are limited for these here in Australia. Here's a comparison pic between the hilux and mazda pads

Nice, interior looks great! What are the specs on this?

I had a very similar noise on my car when I over tensioned the belt on my tired alternator. Try backing off the alternator tension to see if it changes. I wouldn't have thought there'd be any noise from the tensioner? Liking this build!

Thanks gents. The system has stainless headers with twin 60mm secondary's that goes in a single 3" all the way to the back, then two short 60mm pipes into the can. First time I've done my own exhaust. The muffler/rear can is made by 'Reinhard' in Japan, all hand tig and the welds are beautiful. I only purchased the rear muffler as the whole system was beyond my budget. It's basically the same style as the fujitsubo but in twin 60 instead of twin 50. Sounds great with the FCR's and goes hard! Some of my you tube vids http://m.youtube.com/user/riceburner46

It's finished, with all new seals, badges and complete with 3" mandrel exhaust into twin 60mm stainless rear can.

Wow, now thats a nice ride! Lots to like about this car. What are the specs on it? Cheers, Gareth

Mmmmm Shiny! Whats the oil filter/adapter you have?

Here's some Iphone pics of my road going track car. All DIY, should hopefully be finished in a few more weeks. Can't wait to drive it again, it's been off the road for 18 months.

Here's my engine bay with the old blackbird setup and now the current FCR41's. DIY L29 with PMC worked P90 head.

The best test would be trying to fit it into an L series timing cover, wouldn't it? Looked identical to my Nissan atsugi LD28 pump.

Are you sure the Ebay type are actually the Diesel pumps? I purchased two from a US seller who assured me they were LD type only to find they were stock gas style pumps. I'm unfamiliar with that brand as I'm in australia, are they a good brand? The pump I got from Nissan Japan was Atsugi, but I could buy four of yours for the price of one Atsugi LD28 pump! Lol. Looks like these could be worth a try, thanks for posting the info!

I also got one sent from Japan to my local Nissan dealer using the part number listed on this forum. Had to pay before they would place the order and it was in my hands two weeks later. Not cheap though!

It's all helpful information, thanks. Current stacks are the standard Keihin radiused type 50mm long, maybe ill just keep those. I have never dialed in the cam properly (74deg works grind with high lift) so that could also be a factor with the Stand off. I should look into that before I make any drastic changes, I'll be getting a new oxy sensor this week for the air/fuel meter, this should help to get it pretty close jetting wise.

Thanks Leon. I said choke which was the wrong term, the actual wording was more linear flow with less turbulence. Basically I thought it would work like this... When the throttle is opened low-mid way on the FCR's the air coming in hits the slide, drops vertically to go under the slide and then continues on. With conventional butterflies the air would seem to have a straighter, smoother path at low-mid throttle. Thats my very simple logic, seems like I have been fooled by the snake oil I already bought two of those stacks cheaply, I might give them a try anyway to see if they get rid of the 'stand off' I can see at around 2-3,000rpm.

Got these babies on and running, engine runs quite nicely. My oxy sensor is dead so fine tuning will have to wait, plug color looks spot on! Check out the video's in the members video section.

Here's the new manifold, with the carbs test fitted and plenty of clearance all round. I have a question for the velocity stack guru's.... I have come across a 'power now' stack (see pic below). The velocity stack is fitted with a horizontal plate across the centre, when the flatslide is open on low to half throttle the air is only drawn straight throught the lower section. This is meant to promote higher velocity,less turbulence and give better driveabilty. I guess it's acting like a choke at part throttle, at full throttle it has no effect. It claims to increase power/torque in the low to mid range rpm. My shift point is 7200 so I figure thats low-mid range. The theory behind these seems to make sense but I'm wondering what you guys think? Thought I'd keep it all on one thread. Also to correct I have adjustable main air screws and have just fitted adjustable idle mix screws for east tuning. Thanks, Gareth.