jimbo5670

ok, to anwser your questions 1) the car has not ran well sence i pulled the old l24, although it has good compression accross the boards, and burns no oil, currently is the best i have ever had it run with MS 2) the TPS is a 240sx one rigged to the stock 50mm throttle body, it goes from 0 - about 91 or so, my gas pedal needs some adjusting 3) at idle the timing sits at 15-16 deg advance, the dizzy still has a mechanical advance so itll do 19-20 at WOT and 4k rpm, then drop back down when i let off, -by the way, the car shakes like my teeth are going to fall out at 1200, and then smooths out after 1700 4) the plug wires are crap, dono, picked em up at advance auto for like 20-25$, didnt think they made a difference? the plugs are ngk-whatevertheheck they recommend for l28et's 5) the story behind the oil shaft change is after i failed miserably at MSnS i decided to simplify things for the time being, pulled the 82' dizzy and oil shaft, lined the keyway up with the keyway in the 72' shaft and then put that dizzy/crane cams xr700 module in, messed with it till it read 15 deg advance, and by process of elimination figured out the firing order 6) the coil is the 240z one, actually i had not considered that till right now, it stays cool enough, and i ditched the ballist resister, she makes a nice big spark, but dono if that is bad or not, the xr700 has no programability, so i have no clue about the dwell, i assumed that it worked well on the old motor, ignoriance says it should work well in this case too, hah 7)the fuel system is this 240z tank stock feed --> 3/8 fuel line --> walbro 255 inline fuel pump --> generic fuel inj filter --> stock rails and injectors --> ebay special fuel pressure regulator, option for rising rate, but disconnected ATM, reading 32 lbs currently --> 3/8 fuel line --> return though one of the top vent lines there you have it, all the rigs nessasary to keep the swap cheap/screw everything up, haha one other thing, someone was mentioning that you need to ground the MS on the same wire as some sensor, or the injectors at the same place as the megasquirt, can anyone shed some light on this? thanks for reading the long ramble, matt

ok, its version 2.2, no ms n spark, spark is ran by the distributor and the crane module i had mentioned i changed it to simultaneous injector staging and got the o2 up to high for actvation, put it on the road and gave it gas, still noooooo power what-so-ever then i took the fuel map from moby's faq, tried it again, still no power checked the timing, reading 15 at idle, should be enough to get moving, or could it be reading wrong? and i have the accel numbers from moby's post, are they pertinate? thanks guys, matt

The setup 82' l28et stock turbo stock boost stock injectors 32 lbs of fuel pressure with a walbro 255 the ignition is a crane cams xr700 with the oilshaft and distributor from a 72' l24 no o2 sensor as of yet the symptoms no power stumbles reallll bad (almost stalls) when you give it some throttle pops when you rev it my .msq http://putstuff.putfile.com/57516/872258 if anyone can help, it would be awsume, i miss driving my z!! thanks, matt

alright, thats the plan when i go back home for some weekend hopefully soon.

but rich enough that the car would barely run and start at 33 psi of fuel pressure?

Thank god for this board, the car FINALLY runs, the day before I had to go back to school of course, hah. Running is a term I am taking rather liberally though, it seems to be wayyyyyy rich, and I was trying to figure out why. Here is what I am running. 72 240z 82 L28ET MS 2.2 running fuel only The tune from the Moby FAQ Stock turbo Stock boost No I/C yet Stock injectors No resisters on the INJ grounds Timing is set for 10degrees at idle, and coming up to 13 at 3000 rpm, not an ideal situation I know, but it is only a temporary solution The symptoms I am getting are Popping under acceleration The car has “no balls†Hard as s*** to start Thanks, Matt

im having a similar problem, it is bewildering

i have a megasquirt v 2.2 running fuel only with the normal firmware, and it was working, from what i could gather. I then tried to hook up a maniforl air temp sensor to it, and next time i turned it on, nothin showed on the laptop, saying something like do you want to work offline. I have no idea what happened, any ideas on how to get it working again would be greatly approciated. thanks, matt

Built up 2 L28's by the time you were 17??!! My hat is off to you man, im 19, and still struggling with my L28et and MS swap.

never mind, no plusewith now, WTF?!?! so, who wants to buy a megasquirt?

yeah, with power from the battery, and no resisters on. When i hook up the resisters, no pulsewith

ok, i ran power strait to the battery, still got nothing, then i bypassed the resisters, that got me the injectors to start, but im afraid to run open current like that, or am i just being overly worried? and secondly it still didnt start, could i have toasted the injectors? P.S. Thought i smelled a bit of ozone when i did that Thanks, Matt

Ok, i am running a l28et, megasquirted, the timing was way out so i set it today. Megasquirt v2.2, and i had the car running last time I was home, but now when i crank, it says i have no plusewith or duty cycle. Things i have checked - Air temp and water temp are both working - Fuel to the rails (not that it should matter) - Power to injectors, but it is doing something strange, each plug, both sides are showing up on my test light when the 'squirt is on, but the motor is not cranking - the tuning is set up exactly the same as moby had put in his guide - Has tach signal So someone please help, its been a frustrating pain in the a##, and i just want to get it to run. Thanks, Matt

Yeah, thats the price on DIYautotune.com as well, not a bad deal when you compair it to something like SDS

got em, thanks, im guessing 5.6 ohm is close enough -matt

I've searched numerous stores, including radio smack, and called a bunch of places for the 6ohm 25watt resistors for the l28et injectors. I was wondering if you guys happen to have where i could pick them up online. thanks, matt

alright, ive decided to have another crack at it, and was wondering what about the stock ignitor on the coil,is there any way i can use that eather in conjection with the HEI or independently using something else?

alright, before i start to get frustrated and really screw things up, anyone in the south jersey area willing to give a bit of there time to help, 100 bucks if you can get it to fire. i just cant figure out what the problem is, and i just want to get this project moving again. thanks, matt

i still can't get any spark, and i have no idea why, ive ran though the connections a dozen times and cant find anything. megatuneSS is showing signal, but im getting nothing

ok, i had it grounded at the bottom, so i should run those 1k resisters inline with the tach and fidle wires, correct? or are they T connected with a 12v?

the diagram looks like i am taking a 12v from the battery, running a 1k resister, then t connecting it to the megasquirt trigger line, or does that represent something else, or is it ran inline and there is no 12v feed?

i have a 72 240z that is getting a 82 or 83 l28et and have decided to go the megasquirt route. Im tring to get it to run on the ground before I pull the old motor from the car. My question involves the bare minimum to get spark from running the 4 pin HEI, the 82 or 83 coil and dist. what i have tried is to hook it up according to the FAQ diagram without the step down things i have the... red strait to the battery (12v) white directly to the tach wire on the 2.2 MS unit (pin 24) green bent off to the side black grounded to the intake manifold on the HEI i had... Fidle (pin 30) right to G on the HEI W on HEI grounded and B and C to + and - on the coil cranked it and no spark from the coil, at all anyone that can think of anything that im doing wrong, pleaseee help thanks, matt

alright, i have been doing a 82/83 (not sure what year, but i know its not an 81) turbo swap into my 240. I have read the swap guide a bunch of times and there is still a few questions that elude me. The swap guide says there is a 6 plug ignition harness bung comming from right near the ecu for the 81. Im guessing that the newer harnesses have eight, so what goes where? http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/17415162595.jpg&s=x2 one other thing is the igniter on the coil plugs into that two prong connector nearthe ecu, or does the power from the coil come from somewhere else? thanks, matt

Is a 280zx afm the same as the 280zxt one,and if not, is their i can make it work for that application on the cheap? Thanks, Matt

so there should be no problems throwing 200-250 horses at that? The reason im dead set on this is i already have the clutch, and am on a budget. matt