78zstyle
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Posts posted by 78zstyle
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This thread is seriously making me consider going with a white/black theme.
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Pulled the trigger on a rebuilt 4L60E.
Can anyone show me pictures of what shifter they are using?
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The rear end issues make me happier I'm going automatic. I can't imagine what its like to have to worry about breaking your half shafts all the time
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Man, at that price theres almost no reason to go autometer.
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Changing the thermostat won't fix the vapor locking issue, as it happens when the engine is not running, therefor no coolant is flowing. The issue happens when the engine is off and sits for a bit.
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Where in TX are you? I might be interested in a straight trade.
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Power steering is beneficial either way. Adding a V8 doesn't increase steering effort that much(especially aluminum motors).
Others have added electric power steering and loved it.
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Anyways, as this thread is directed towards the OP's problem.
Both having the fuel prime and injector fan will either fix it, or at least help.
Forgot to mention, if possible use a heat shield between your exhaust and intake manifolds. Ive also heard of people wrapping their fuel rails.
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His problem is occurring now, in the middle of summer. Not the middle of winter.
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Lots of interesting factoids listed there. But on my essentially stock EFI system, with N42/N42/N47 (intake/head/block) engine, and all the factory heat shields, new Nissan 180 degree thermostat (opened at 185 on the stove), new radiator, temperature needle rock-steady at a hair over center; the fuel rail priming and purging (new cool fuel run through it while waiting for fuel tank bubbles to stop) does not have any effect. It just doesn't do anything. The fan bandaid (fandaid?) has immediate and consistent effect. If I turn the fan on when I leave the car, it doesn't matter when I get back, 5, 10, 15, 20 minutes, doesn't matter. Get in, no priming, start engine, drive away. Just like a modern car.
The only way it could get better, for my situation, is if I could find a decent automatic timer for a reasonable price. The hundreds of Asia-made turbo timer options look interesting but seem way overpriced for what they are.
That's my anecdote and I'm sticking to it. Priming doesn't work, fan on injectors does.
That's the problem with theory and guys on the internet saying "Oh this should work" when you have practical evidence of what works and what doesn't,
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Picked a rebuilt 95 corvette 4L60e with zero miles on it. Also got a new wiring harness as the one I was given was one from a B body and had all this fuse block non sense on it.
Still need some odds and ends, but its coming together!
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You don't. This is covered over and over...
The ZX's used a three second fuel pump prime to refill the rail and combat hot restart issues.
Run a 160 thermostat in the summer to keep the blast furnace of the radiator only blowing 170-180 F air over your engine, and prime the fuel rail on restart before cranking and watch your summer heat soak problems go away entirely.
If I can drive across the desert southwest towing an 800# trailer without hot restart problems in Mid June in 120F+ ambient s, 91 should be child's play!
Personally, the fuel pump prime thing did nothing for me.
Others have fitted the injector fan with reported success, you could try that OP.
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To clarify: I need it for an S30.
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Looking for JTR mounts. Let me know what you have.
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That would be..
Ahem.
Unique.
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If you pull it yourself from lkq its about $200 (They have half off days once a month as well). I've done it many times at both the Houston LKQ upull locations. If your buying prepulled, preidentified, and packaged from LKQ of course its going to be expensive. If you go out and pull yourself its dirt cheap.
Ah didn't realize thats how it worked. Ill look more into this.
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Price is right but shipping would be too expensive.
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Doesn't appear to be an aftermarket BMC. These caps are at least stock.
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In Houston you can find T5 transmissions all day everyday at the upull yards. Have your tried your local LKQ? They usually have quite a few old fbodies at their yards.
They are asking 1,500 for used transmissions.
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Good Morning Folks,
I recently acquired a mostly stock rebuilt LT1 (Mahle pistons, stock everything else) that I plan to drop into my '71 240z with stock ECU.
Performance wise, my plan is just to have a rather fun car that can hold it's own, I'm not looking to necessarily be the fastest thing around. I do have plans to hit up the 1/8 and 1/4 mile strip, but I'm not trying to be very competitive.
With that said, I can not afford a T56, so my options are: 4L60E, 700r4 and a WC-T5. I'm having trouble sourcing a WC-T5 locally, but I see 4L60E's and 700r4's to be plentiful. The only automatic V8 z I've been in was Domz's LS1/4l60E and it seemed to be plenty quick. I've driven manual's all my life for my cars, so I'm weary about going to an automatic (although from what I understand, it will be easier on my rearend, which is important for me)
So let me cut to the chase: Guys with automatics who aren't dedicated track cars, are you happy with your choice? Does it feel like you've kind of ruined the "sports car" feel with an auto?
Thanks for your input.
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Wonderful! Those are great looking cars in my opinion. With the added power they turn into monsters.
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Thanks for the information, And the warning.
Where are you located in Texas? If you are close to Dallas I might be of some assistance.
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Hey Mike, whatever decision you make is up to you.
Either way, it's been entertaining watching you drive, your car is cool and you are a superb driver.
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The AFM is sensitive to vacuum leaks, your car will not run properly with them. You can tape up the elbow (I did) and that should hold fine. As far as eliminating vacuum lines, I wouldn't. They all go somewhere and serve a purpose (on stock ecu).
Now that I answered your question, I would recommend to you to improve your grammar. I don't mean to be condescending but it's taken seriously on this forum.
Fuel Tank setups
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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How much did you pay for that tank? Thats a work of art.