Nigel
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Posts posted by Nigel
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Sorry to hear about your bad fortunes! I hope things turn around for you.
I'm running 17" rims, so I have lots of clearance.
Nigel
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FYI, Classic Datsun Motorsports has a mold for this hood vent, and is ready to start production. Pricing should be available soon. Contact CDM if you're interested. I'll post any updates I hear about. There's also a thread at www.classiczcars.com.
Can't wait!
Nigel
'73 240Zt
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There are three versions of the Toyota caliper. The 4 cylinder trucks have vented and non-vented rotor versions, but the pads are identical. There is also a larger caliper found on 6 cylinder trucks that is available for a vented rotor only, and the pads are not interchangeable with the 4 cylinder trucks. I believe you only have coolers available for the 6 cylinder truck calipers? I e-mailed you a few years back about making a cooler for the 4 cylinder truck calipers and you said there were no plans to make them. Has this changed? I, of course, have the 4 cylinder truck vented rotor calipers.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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There have been many, many discussions about this topic over the years, and was just covered again recently. So, you should be able to find plenty of info if you search. To summarize, the stock feed line size is ok, but the return is too small. Either use the gas tank evap. line running to the front of the car, or run a new return. A sump will work pretty well on the bottom of the tank (that's what I have), but the ideal solution would be a surge tank fed by a low pressure feeder pump, with the high pressure pump fed from the surge tank.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I have an RT mount in my '73 240Z L28 Turbo. It fit with no problems. I did not use the stock lower mount (complete waste of time IMHO). All I did was to install the bolts from the bottom up, with no washers under the bolt heads, and no washers or spacers between the poly mount brackets and the diff. I did notched the poly bushing for the correct pre-load. My crossmember looks just like the one in the picture above, and I did not have to notch the crossmember. The bolts heads have never hit the crossmember under deceleration. I've had it in the car for several years now.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Ignoring all the naysayers, I put a cat in my Z 7 years ago (sorry, I couldn't find any good pictures of the location). I have no regrets doing it. No, I don't have before and after emissions test. However, I also have no complaints about exhaust fumes in the car, and everyone who rides in it comments on how civilized it is. That could just be because my Z is fuel injected, and I've tuned it pretty well, and the previous exhaust system was rather leaky. But, even if it does nothing, for $100 and a couple of horsepower, it's such a tiny investment, that it was worth it to try. And despite road racing, and drag racing, and some tuning mishaps, I've yet to melt it.
A friend of mine had a cat put on his Z with triple Webbers, and he swears that it made all the difference in the world in his Z. I'd have to agree that it doesn't smell like a refinery in his car now. Another friend tried a cat in his Z with twin SU's, but I don't think he had as much luck.
Theory isn't always everything. Try one out and see if it works for you. Again, it's such a small investment, that you don't have much to loose if it doesn't work, and others have had success with them.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Later cats (OBD2 timeframe) do more things. But early bricks are very limited in their scope of cleanup. The reason they are 'effective' at stoich is that NOx is at it's minimum near that point.
I don't think this is correct. Every source that I've read indicates that NOx is formed at high combustion temperatures, and these occur at stoich. Hence, the introduction of the EGR valve, to inject a small amount of inert exhaust gas into the combustion chamber to lower combustion temperatures, and reduce NOx. Unfortunately, this also reduces engine efficiency.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Wigenout-s30 - I am stealing your one side only cut out. It keeps the clean lines of the hood and still adds venting for the engine bay.
Not sure if you realize that that is a rare Datsun Competition Hood Scoop he has on his car, not just a stock hood with a vent cut in the side:
http://zhome.com/History/ComHood.htm
I wish somebody would reproduce them! I'd buy one in an instant.
Hey J. Soileau... look up two posts from yours. I don't think Drax is going to be happy with you
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Have you seen this...
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/31011-my-240sx-rear-irs-swap-into-my-240z/
Only covers the rear suspension though. BTW, the picture links on the first 3 pages are dead.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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The only bad thing about these is they aren't closed loop.
Anyone running Megasquirt can accomplish the same with about $40 in parts. I've seen people run second injector channels (on like AEMs) to accomplish the same thing as well.
Actually, it is closed loop, with a temperature compensated pressure sensor. That's pretty good for an EBC that's less than half the cost of an AEM Tru Boost EBC, which isn't closed loop.
Nigel
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Hey! So somebody else is finally using one of these EBC's! I'm glad to hear my suggested mods worked out for you. I never got around to trying them.
My EBC is still working great. Every now and then it will switch boost levels when I start the car, but I haven't had any other issues.
I'm just seeing your e-mail now. I'm still not getting e-mail updates for this thread, but I do for all the others I'm subscribed to. Haven't figured out why yet. You're right, the HDI instructions don't clearly show that the bottom port of an external wastegate needs to be connected to a boost source (your picture #2). But otherwise, it's correct. You can also use the other external wastegate hookup you have shown (pic #3), but the exhaust pressure could potentially force the wastegate open I guess.
Nigel
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yes I searched!! I will be puttin a l28et in a 240z or 260z soon, would I run fuel lines and an inline fuel pump and be ok just to get it running? or how would I do this? because I know the 240z is carb but im not sure about the 260z thanks.
Where and what were you searching for? There have been countless discussions on fuel system mods needed to run FI in 240Z's.
That being said, at the very least, you will need a larger return line of at least 5/16", and if you ever plan on tracking the car, I wouldn't waste my time on the 280Z tank. With a high flow pump, it'll be sucking air on hard corners with less than half a tank. There are lots of discussions on better alternatives (sumps, surge tanks, in-tank pumps, custom tanks, fuel cells). If you're just looking for something temporary to get the car driveable, use a 90deg fitting off of the drain on the bottom of the tank as the supply, and use the original feed as the return with a new, bigger feed line.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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clearance issue where? if its fender related no problem mines cutout now just trying to set up my wheel/tire combo. my rear fender has been trimmed to fit 325/50r15 yes 28" tire. but i have a correct backspace rim.
and thanks but yes I am fully aware that 285/40 is taller than the 275/40 and yes i am fully aware that 295/35 is shorter in diameter as it is after only a 25.1" tire.
ideally of course I should match it with 255/40 and 295/35
or 275/40 with 315/35
but i wanted to see if 275 can fit up front and if 295/35 can fit outback. without rubbing the suspension stuff.
FYI, the 9.5†width that these rims are available in is less than the recommended minimum width for a 295 tire.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I dont think that would be true, most if not all the parts store I called dont ask for the model, they ask if its turbo or not. Any other suggestions? What is the diameter of the correct rotor I should be using of 84 300zx
From Chilton Manual
'84 - '86 300ZX Front Rotors
Base Model - 9.84" (250mm) dia.
GL, GL-L - 10.79" (274) dia.
Nigel
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Those are probably base model Z31 rotors. IIRC, you need the GL/GLL rotors. You definitely should not use them like that!
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Nigel, the URL brings up an Australian site. Do you have to order from them or can this be purchased in North America / Canada? Thanks for the information.
I'm not aware of any North American distributors. They do ship internationally though. I bought one of their DIY kits (I'm an electronics tech) about 5 years ago and it's been working fine. A lot of other wideband products have come on the market since then. There may be better options now, but I'm happy with the Tech Edge product.
Nigel
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i had SDS on a previous engine. If i still had it and that option became available i would have upgraded in a second. Data logging when tuning is a must in my book!!! you would have to have a wide band in put to make it work right.
I have the datalogging chip. It's pretty limited. It only records the AFR (providing you have an AFR meter - preferably wideband) on the RPM map. But it can be handy for doing some quick tuning without a laptop. Keep in mind that because it only records on the RPM map, if you have a turbocharged engine, you won't know if the RPM or Manifold pressure map needs to be changed while building boost. Once you're at a steady boost level, you will know if it's the RPM map that needs adjusting.
For more detailed datalogging, I got a Techedge Wideband 02 meter which can log up to six channels. I just tapped into the SDS signals I wanted to monitor (RPM, manifold pressure, throttle position, and air temp so far). This made all the difference in the wold.
http://wbo2.com/3a1/default.htm
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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i took my turbo off yesterday (280zxt 1981) and three metal things came off. the Big one, is the main manifold to turbo gasket, but can you name these two? i think they might be a type of washer, im not sure where they go, or if i even have to use them again, help me out.
They're locking tabs to keep the nuts from coming loose. You bend the tabs over against the nuts once the nuts are tight.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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The Z store sells this kit that replaces the stock rubber mount with polyurethane. http://www.thezstore.../PSDC15/23-4188
I have these in the rear of my Z right now, and I'm not happy with them. The hole that the strut rod goes though in the center of the large bushing has deformed, and the bushing will no longer hold it's position. This happened very quickly after installation. I think it maintains maybe a 1/2 degree.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I think the drivetrain forum would have been more appropriate for this topic, but regardless...
I looked up the bore diameter for a 240SX slave, and it doesn't appear to be any different from any other Z slave cylinder at 3/4". Are you sure there's a difference? I did a S14 transmission conversion for my L28, and the clutch hardware for the S14 didn't look any different than what I was using for the L28. The arm, throwout bearing and sleeve were all identical. S14 transmission didn't come with a slave though, so I couldn't do a direct comparison. But I'd really be surprised if there's any difference.
How do you know that your clutch master cylinder is not shot, or maybe there's just air in the line?
Nigel
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The way that system works is crazy. I would make it so the flow from the boost would be at a 90° angle, with the path to the waste gate. Instead of the path to the boost dial.
then where would yuou have flow from the dial?
Yeah, I also can't follow your explanation. Can you elaborate?
Nigel
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Sounds like a missing reaction disk. There's a sticky on it...
Nigel
'73 240ZT
SHAVING THE FLYWHEEL
in Drivetrain
Posted
I have a 240mm flywheel. It's been shaved down to around 17lbs. I guess they could have gone lighter, but it's held up for 9 years so far.
Nigel
'73 240ZT