Nigel
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Posts posted by Nigel
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The wide part should be towards the front. I had no problem distinguishing between the left and right flares for the front, but I found that it was really difficult to tell the difference between the left and right side rear flares when just holding them in front of me. However, when I tried both flares on the same side of the car, with them properly clamped in place, it quickly became obvious which side was which.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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ok guys all done today, but I am still confused on one thing??? What type of flaring will I'll be doing to connect my new lines to those two little fittings that are included with the Wilwood proportioning Valve by looking inside the fittings they are both inverted flare's, so the big question now is do I again make a double flare's just like the rest of the lines to connect to these fittings?
Yes, use double flares just like in that video link I posted.
Nigel
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Ok guys according to Dave at AZC the original 240z proportioning valve should not be remove...
Why not?
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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An industrial Z!
Very creative, and far, far better executed than many of the attempts I've seen at custom body work.
Nigel
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My Greddy controller seems to max out at 16psi - I think it's got a 2 bar sensor. I wonder if this unit can control a higher boost level....
The half way point on the Hi Boost knob is 15psi with the stock 280ZX internal wastegate actuator, so if the adjustment is linear, then in theory it should be able to go to at least 30 psi (I believe the pressure sensor has a range up to 50psi). But like sq-creations indicated, it has a lot to do with the wastegate actuator.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Pretty sure it will clear. The ID on these wheels has got to be pretty big. I don't think the calipers are that large.
It's not interference with the ID of the rims that's a concern, because as I already pointed out, these calipers will fit within the diameter of a 14" rim. Interference with the hub and spokes is what you have to watch out for. If I have time this weekend, I'll see if I can take some meaningful measurements so somebody with the bigger calipers can determine if they'll clear.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I did a quick search and didn't see the answer. . I have a set of 17X9 & 9.5 on back order and want to go with the toyota brake upgrade (prefer the vented upgrade) will these brakes fit without spacers? anyone running this setup? thanks
I have the Toyota caliper and vented rotor setup in the pictures below. The Rota 17x9's clear those calipers with no problems. The stock 14" steel rims (seen in the pictures) even cleared the calipers.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Ok i found this video on Youtube...
That video only shows how to do a single flare. Brake lines require a double flare (the flare is folded back in on itself). You want to find instructions specific to making this type of flare, such as this...
http://
Make sure you do a bunch of trial flares so that your very comfortable with the procedure, otherwise you're going to be fighting with lots of leaks.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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OK, I found it. As I suspected, ATP Turbo sells it:
Unfortunately, it only comes in a T25 housing
That sucks!
Maybe if enough people ask, ATP will make a T3 version. Or, does anybody know of another vendor who makes a T3 version?
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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They must not work to bad if they are producing and selling turbine housings with the flange on it.
Where did you find that? I saw a similar piece in the book Maximum Boost, that looked like the picture jacob80 posted, but it was actually cast, and not welded. I think this is a brilliant idea, but I could never find a vendor. Having an external wastegate flange cast into the turbine housing would really simplify installation and I think flow very well, possibly even better than what one could come up with for a custom header. A lot of the custom manifolds I've seen have the external wastegate plumbing doing 180 deg turns from the direction of flow because of a lack of space. My only concern is will it clear the intake on an L28?
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I mounted my adjustable proportioning valve in the same location as the stock valve on '73 and later Z's, which is right on the firewall, next to the brake booster (NOT at the rear of the car like so many people mistakenly claim!). You can see mine in the picture below. It's a little more involved to install an adj. prop valve in '73 and later Z's because the valve uses pressure to the front, right caliper to modulate pressure to the rear brakes. So, you can't just gut the valve, you have to remove it and then splice the gap that now exists in the front brake line (I just made a whole new line). The adj. valve can go in the gap in the rear line.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Nigel any updates? getting ready to order one of these.
Evan
Sorry for the delay in posting. I didn't get an e-mail notice about your last post. As for updates, I can't think of much new to report. I'm still really happy with the controller, and have absolutely no regrets about buying it. I got in one track day at the Mosport Driver Development road course before I put the car away for the winter. The boost controller worked like a charm. No weird behaviour or hiccups. The only issue I've run into is that the double sided tape isn't holding the controller in place under the dash, so I'm going to have fab up some kind of bracket. I didn't get around to wiring up a remote boost level switch that I talked about in my original post, but I hope to get something wired up before the car goes back on the road this year. I might also wire in an on/off switch for the controller so that I can have "stock" boost in addition to the two adjustable levels. I've found it handy on a few occasions to have the controller off (like letting friends run the 1/4 mile), but it's a pain having to grope around under the dash in order to disconnect the harness.
Nigel
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Thanks for the clarification Nigel. It is starting to make sense, I think? What's confusing is the diagrams in the FSM I have for the 1972 model shows a very short push rod on the master-vac/booster and a deep throated MC? One of the diagrams has to be wrong. It makes sense that the earlier models had a very shallow throated MC.
I just downloaded the brake section from a 73 FSM and the master-vac diagrams shows the push rod is longer, but the push rod adjustment instructions are the same as the 72 FSM, which can't be done with the longer push rod???
I also looked at the 81 280ZX FSM and the push rod length spec is 9.5mm to 10.5mm. My rebuilt 280ZX MC has a 9.8mm throat?
The MC part numbers I mentioned were from Victory British and Black Dragon. They show the 72-78 model years as using the same MC.
I guess I will just adjust it so I have about 0.5mm to 1.0mm gap and see how it works? I really want to adjust it once and be done. I think the main thing is to adjust the push rod length such that you have some sort of gap between the push rod and piston so that the MC piston can fully retract, but not too big of gap to give you a soft pedal.
I've never compared the specifications given between the FSM's and there may be more differences and/or similarities between the years than I'm aware of. I recall that when I did my friend's '71 Z, I ended up measuring the depth of the MC and then adjusting the pushrod accordingly to leave a bit of a gap. It's worked find for about 6 years now.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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It seems that very few people are aware that '73 240Z's have the same braking system as the 280Z. So they read the service manuals and assume all 240Z's are the same, or worse, that all Z's are the same, which leads to all sorts of confusion. 1973 and later Z's have a longer brake booster pushrod nose (length from the tip of the pushrod to the hex) than earlier Zs, as is seen in the picture IdahoZ posted. It's a little hard to see the nose of the pushrod on the 240Z drawing, but it's significantly shorter than what you can see on the 280Z drawing, or the picture at the beginning of this thread, which is of the longer pushrod. The pushrod is longer because the MC on '73 and later Zs have a deeper bore where the pushrod makes contact with the MC piston. Earlier 240Z MC's have a much shallower bore, and consequently, a shorter pushrod nose. Therefore, a 280ZX master cylinder will bolt up to a '73 or later Z without requiring much if any adjustment to the push rod (my '73 didn't need any adjustment to the pushrod). If you put a later MC on an early 240Z booster with the short pushrod nose, you need to unthread the pushrod almost all the way to get the right length. That doesn't leave the pushrod with many threads holding it in, so a much safer solution is to to swap out the pushrod with the later long-nosed version (this is what I did for a friend with a '71 Z). Then, use the dimensions for the 280Z to set the proper length.
I looked at both the Technical Service Manual (TSM) I have for my 1972 240Z and the one for a 280Z and the adjustment measurements are different? I find this puzzling, since the MC part number for both the 240Z and the 280Z are the same. Why would the gap between the end of the push rod and the MC piston be different?
What year of 240Z MC did you look the part number up for? If it was a '73 240, then it will have the same PN as a 280. If it was from an earlier 240, where did you look up the part number? If it was from an aftermarket book, then they may have just lumped all the Z's together, assuming they are all the same.
Nigel
'73 240Z
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There's a lower alternator bracket that's bolted to the block. There are two bolts that secure the alternator to the bracket. One goes in from the front, and the other from the back. You can see this bracket from the front in the picture below. It's at the left edge of the picture, next to the oil pump. You can see the front bolt hole. The bolts are M8x1.25. The length should be easy enough to figure out.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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$500 wow that's a lot of $$ just for a piece of pipe.
$500 for 6 hours of labour plus materials sounds about right to me.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I'm just waiting on a shipping quote to Canada before I commit.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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There are some really good dual purpose track day tyres around now ie tyres that are reasonably OK for everyday use but which will perform well on a race track without getting shredded. Providing the pressure is upped to ~40psi.
There is a Dunlop Direzza of some sort, Kumho KU36, Federal 595RSR to name a few. Fairly sure Tirerack list the first two.
The Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 and the Kumho Ecsta XS (KU36) were both listed in that Car and Driver article that I linked to earlier. The Dunlop was 1st, and the Kumho was third.
Nigel
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Best racing in the world!
I love how the direction of the steering wheel appears to have no correlation to the direction of the car.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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205 40 17's are 1.5" smaller in diameter than the oem tire. It always looks silly to me when a car has tires with an undersized diameter. Plus, a smaller diameter tire will run hotter and have a lower traction limit. Not to mention that the speedometer will be off.
A 205 50 17's would be a more appropriate size. 225 45 17's and 255 40 17's will also maintain the stock diameter.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Car and Driver did a comprehensive comparison of 9 performance tires last year.
I'm going to be getting the 2nd place Hankook Ventus V12 Evo's. Their overall performance is close enough to the first place Dunlop Direzza's, but for significantly less money. I had the Falken Azenis RT-615 tires before, and I'd have to agree with the assessment in the article. They performed well in the dry, but tended to lock up easy under breaking, and were just plain frightening on wet roads.
It's amusing to note that the Ling Long's dry autocross time was worse than the top three tires in the wet!!!
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Stay away from Showcars...
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113366&highlight=showcar
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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You will most likly need a different (longer) collar due to a shorter pp. Was said here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=157779&highlight=pressure+throwout+bearing.
So Lazyeye, you were already warned a month ago, numerous times, by several other people that the throwout bearing sleeve (collar) has to match the pressure plate, and you still haven't checked it?
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Nigel,
1. The hydraulics worked before I replaced the clutch.
2. I didn't change the sleeve, I removed the old bearing and put a new one on.
And so, what would you conclude from that?
MSA ZG Flare orientation
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
Sorry, I don't want to threadjack, but what size tires do you have on the rear, and have you had any rubbing issues?
Nigel
'73 240ZT