Nigel
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Posts posted by Nigel
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I hooked up the old T connector from the F and N wires from the old alternator to the S and L leads on the CS144 alternator. The S lead now has a constant 12v and the L is on a switched 12v which is what it should be AFAIK.
That's what I did.
I have a 100 ohm resistor inline on the "L" wire per some instructions from another guide, but now I've noticed that the little red light on the dash doesn't light up or does just faintly. Is that an actually light bulb or is it just an LED? Nigel, should I leave the resistor in? I put it in because there was one in the harness KTM used in this post (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135557&highlight=cs144) but I just went to the scrap yard and cut out the connector instead of buying one from NAPA for $20.Some means of limiting the current going into the charging circuit is required, which can be accomplished with either a light bulb OR a resistor. Both are not required, so you can eliminate the resistor.
So is the battery holding a charge now?
Nigel
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I came out this morning and the battery was nearly dead, like it's been slowly drained. I didn't notice any of the lights or anything having been left on.
The thing is, I have disconnected the alternator from the battery (I ran a 4ga wire directly from the alt to the battery), the wiring harness from the alternator, and short of disconnecting the ground from the alternator, it is effectively out of the electrical look (at least positive-wise, it is still bolted in, thus grounded).
I'm about to pull my hair out over this.
Please help. :/
I'm confused. Did the battery discharge overnight with the alternator disconnected? In either case, I don't think a diode is going to solve that problem. The diode is typically to prevent the engine from continuing to run after the ignition is shut off
Also
Nigel
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There are simpler designs out there, but this was the first structural welding I've done, so I made it extra beefy.
It looks like it's bent in this picture, but it's just an illusion...
Test fit...
It turned out to be a handy place to mount the fuel pump and pre-filter. The pump is almost level with the bottom of the tank to help with fuel pick up.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Those threads say the early 280Z tank will fit into the 240Z.
Honestly though it might be a better idea to set up a surge tank and call it a day with your 240Z tank, might save you some money and a headache. I've never done one though.
*edit*
Found this one too:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=97211&highlight=240Z+efi+fuel+tank+280Z
Interesting...
Hey! Somebody actually used the search function, found something I wrote, and quoted it. It's nice to know I don't post stuff here for nothing!
Badjuju, don't waste your time with the '75 tank. It's not worth it. While it does fit in the space, it's not a "bolt-in" swap, and you'll gain very little in the process. As flatblack280 said, go with a surge tank (probably best idea for your horsepower goals), or some of the other options that have been documented here. I've had good luck with the sump welded on the bottom of my tank, but I've only run it down to 3 gallons so far. At least it's far better than the 280 tank I had before.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Does that kit use the brake switch as a shut off too?
Yes, and if you have a manual transmission, it senses a sudden rise in RPM to know when the clutch has been push in.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I'd be a little worried about the strength of that ready made kit if the guy can force it closed with his hand how will it support an open bonnet.
How else would you close it if not by hand?
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Don't bother with trying to retrofit the ZX system. Just get the Audiovox CCS-100 cruise control kit. It's a universal kit that comes with pretty much everything you need for the installation. It's especially simple to install if you have a manual transmission. It'll just run off of the tach signal. I've installed these kits in three cars, the first being my 240Z 6 years ago, and it's worked flawlessly ever since.
http://www.amazon.com/Audiovox-CCS100-Universal-Vacuum-Control/dp/B00029WQTW
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I saw that car under construction back in October when the Ontario Z Car Club toured LMC. I can't believe it's finished already! Of course, when you can afford to have a whole team build a car, things tend to go much faster. I remember some one mentioning the price tag, and while I forget the actual number, I do know it was some ungodly, obscene amount. One look at the car and it was obvious why though.
There was also a Mustang Shelby with a fascinating independent rear suspension setup.
Before anyone asks, I forgot to bring my camera, so I don't have any pictures.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I switched to a 280Z tach with a resistor in-line with the coil signal. I don't remember the exact resistor value, but I believe it was around 2.2K Ohm? That might be easier that trying to figure out the tach adapter.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I'd be in for sure if it didn't look so rectangular when viewed from the back.
I'd like to see the ends taper in for a more trapezoidal shape.
(this kind of shape, but not this extreme)
It looks great from the other angles I've seen so far though...
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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that shifter is from an 81-83 zx na 5 speed.
Strange, that doesn't look like the shift lever I had in my '82 5 speed. That one looks more like the one that came out of my original 4 speed.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Did you look in the Ignition and Electrical sub-forum?
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135557
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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When people are swapping modern engines with EFI into S30s where are they mounting the ECUs? I know that with 280Zs most mount them in the driver side kick panel wheer the stock ECU went. The is one of the things about the 280Z I hate. I want clear access to the dead pedal, and with a 280Z the ECU always seems to be in the way.
I mounted my SDS ECU on the driver's side kick panel, and I've never once hit it with my foot. The old Z ECU's are big and bulky, and they put covers over them on top of that. But with a nice, thin, anodized aluminum case, there's plenty of room, and it looks cool too.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I'm 6'7" tall, 220lbs, with a 38" inseam. There are only two Z's that I can drive, and they are the 240Z, of which I own one, and the Z31. Strangely, even though it's based on the same platform as the 240Z, I run into problems in the 280Z because I can't fit my knee between the door handle and the steering wheel when I try to operate the clutch.
As for the rest of the Z line-up... forget it! I've sat in all of them, and most of them I couldn't drive even if you put a gun to my head. I'd need a triple-jointed leg to get my foot on the gas pedal. It was a real let-down when I finally got a chance to sit in a 370Z. It's the first new Z that I could afford, and would actually want to own, but again, I don't think I could drive it to save my life. And yet, if you park a 240Z next to a 370Z, the 370 looks massive by comparison. I'm sure some of it has to do with safety, like TonyD says, but part of it also has to do with the styling department and the fact that they just don't take into account the 5% of the population that are at the far ends of the scale.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I think roostmonkey had a run of mounts that had the hole in the wrong place. I know mine has the hole in the wrong place, even though I haven't installed the diff yet. Not a big deal to drill another hole.
Mine went in with no problems.
I really don't think the bottom mount is needed. The ES mount has an interlock feature, so it's not going to come apart, and the amount of torque that the diff gets while decelerating is quite a bit less than when accelerating, so in my opinion the stock mount is just dead weight with the RT mount.I agree. Here's a cut-away shot of the ES mount:
I've run mine for two years now with just the ES mount and I've not had any problems. It hardly flexes at all in any direction. Retaining the stock lower mount just needlessly complicates the installation. The driveshaft bolts are the worst, and without that lower mount in the way, it's a snap to get them in and out now.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I wondered what you meant when you said you had "the front diff crossmember modified." Nice idea. But why don't you just get an RT Diff Mount? It'll work on a '71 Z, and it has a proven design. You don't need to mount the diff to crossmember at all with it.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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A friend of mine has a '71 Z and he's using an AZC mustache bar with no problems. The rear mounting bolts for the mustache bar are in the same location regardless of the year of Z. All you should have to do is turn the front diff rubber mount around 180 deg and everything should line up. This is covered in Jon's sticky!
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116207
Nigel '73 240ZT
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ok are the injectors suppose to start clicking once you turn on the key????
What do you mean by "turn on the key?" Do you mean you're turning the key to the ignition on position? Or are you actually cranking the engine? If you're just turning it to the on position, are you expecting it to spray fuel without the engine actually rotating?
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Here are some pictures of my installation. Great product Jerry!
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I posted about that modification too! As I wrote in this thread, by going to the turn buckle design you elminate the need to trim the alternator tabs since you are mounting the adjustment arm in the front.
Oh yeah! I forgot about that. Your post is what sent me off to Home Depot in the first place. Great idea. I really like the extruded aluminum version I found at the Home Depot near me. It looks way more expensive than it really is. Maybe I'll get it anodized some day. I'm not sure if all the Home Depot's carry the same ones. How do you like the spacer I had made up? It takes care of that misalignment issue. You need a longer bolt though. I think I used a 90mm M8?
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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I posted the CS144 output in the thread that KTM refers to in the beginning of this one. Here it is again:
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115550
To summarize, the CS144 puts out 95 amps at 2000 alternator RPM. The stock Z alternator and crank pulley ratio works out to close to 2:1, so if you use those parts on the CS144, you can get close to the 2000 alternator RPM at 1000 RPM engine idle. I installed the CS144 in my Z at the beginning of this year, and this was the first time since adding the EFI system, 17 Amp rad fan and other electrical options that I never once noticed the alternator struggling to keep up.
Here's some pictures of my install:
Mechanical assembly order:
Electrical components:
Below is the fully assembled alternator waiting for installation. Note the upper adjustable arm. This is a an extruded aluminum turnbuckle that I got from Home Depot for around $3! The eye's have 5/16" thread, and I picked up a reverse thread jam nut at a local fastener supply store so that I could have jam nuts on both ends (probably overkill). I had a buddy make up a 1/4" spacer to correct for the offset where the arm bolts to the timing cover and to make up the difference in diameter between the eye (1/2") and the bolt (8mm). You could just use some washers to correct for the offset.
Below is my modified lower bracket as per HizandHerz writeup. Rather than drill it out for a 10mm clearance hole, I drilled and tapped it with a 10mm thread. But I found that it was difficult to hold the alternator and get the bolt started without cross-threading it. So I ended up just drilling it out and using an extra long bolt and a nut.
Here's the final install (ignore the wire and terminal colours. They don't relate to 0 and 12V):
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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just wondered, how did this setup work out for you? I have a 83zxt and have problems with misfire on boost. I think the problem may be spark related.
My alternater is near dead and want to replace it. This upgrade, might solve my problem.
kenny.
Unless you're planning on doing some welding, or you have a monster car stereo, a regular 140 amp CS144 will be more than enough. The IDLE output alone of the CS144 is 20+ amps more than the MAXIMUM output of the OEM 280ZX alternator!
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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My ultimate 240SX Transmission swap guide (is it possible to sticky a link to this, because I don't want to recreate the whole thing here on Hybridz):
click the picture
Nigel
'73 240ZT
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Click the picture below for a link to my very detailed writeup of the KA five speed swap. This is for an S30, but there should be little if anything that's different.
Nigel
'73 240ZT
As I wrote in this thread, by going to the turn buckle design you elminate the need to trim the alternator tabs since you are mounting the adjustment arm in the front.
Clutch Won't Disengage (new clutch, Fidanza flywheel)
in Drivetrain
Posted
First question: Did the hydraulics work before you replaced the clutch? If so, then they should function fine with the new clutch, and adjusting everything will just cause yourself more problems.
Second question: Are you sure you have the correct throwout bearing sleeve? They come in different lengths (at least 3), and if your original is too short, the clutch will never fully disengage.
Nigel
'73 240ZT