Nigel
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Posts posted by Nigel
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Few things.
First, 18 gauge wire is not the problem. If it was, they would not use that small of wire to wire cars from the factory.
There's probably 10+ feet of wire to the pump, and it's bundled with other wires, so 18AWG is marginal in that situation already. The factory pump was a low pressure feeder pump that likely only drew a few amps. Yes, 12AWG is overkill, but it's better than being undersized.
The problem is clearly heat related - and related to the heat of the fuel, as it gets hotter and hotter being pumped through the system. The pump is lubricated and cooled by the fuel - and when the fuel gets hot - there's a problem.
hard daily with 16 intercooled psi. Air intake is underhood above the factory AC compressor. I know IAT's are probably a little hot -- not helping the situation any - but it is what it is....
And Nigel - many thanks to you for the 240SX tranny swap writeup!! I have one in this car, and in my racecar - and I have been completely pleased with the performance of them! Followed your Motortopia writeup to a T - worked like a champ!!
How much fuel is in the tank when this happens? When the volume gets low, with a high output pump like that, you're recirculating the entire tank volume in a matter of minutes. As you mentioned, the fuel picks up heat from the engine bay with each circulation and gets hotter and hotter. I've installed a fuel pump speed controller in my Z to vary the pump speed based on demand (Professional Products Fuel on Demand, but I think it may have been discontinued).
Glad to hear the SX swap worked out for you!
Nigel
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That pump pulls around 10A, and the stock wire is what... 18AWG, which is good for maybe 5A max. So, yes to running 12AWG wire to the pump. Also, you may need to lower the pump. Hi pressure pumps don't like to pull fuel and will run harder to do so. What's your fuel tank setup?
Nigel
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added fuse holders for the lines running through the dropping resistors.
Can you explain this in more detail?
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Glad to see there's continuing interest in the kit! Looks like I could have easily done a bigger run. For those that missed out on the first round, I would like to do more. However, at this time I'm making no promises as to when that will be. I'm going to be swamped with my real job for the next 4 weeks, I'm rewiring a friend's engine bay following that, plus I need to get my own Z running.
I'll post here or start a new thread when I'm ready to go again. Should be much faster turn around next time as I've got all the logistics worked out now.
BTW, if someone can't wait for a rear disk conversion, I have a brand new NLA Modern Motorsports Xtreme 13" rear kit for sale. It's well designed, but despite the 13" rotor has no more (actually less, IIRC) brake torque than the Lincoln caliper with Mustang rotor. It is lighter though. The kit sold new for $1225. I picked it up for $800 + shipping. I just want to make my money back, so I'm asking $800 + shipping. Fits 17" rims and some 16". It's been test fit but the calipers and lines have never had fluid in them.
There's a picture here:
http://www.ontariozcar.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=3633&d=1366986315
Nigel
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The manual is complete!
Rear Brake Kit Installation Instructions R00.pdf
Looks like 280zcar is off to a good start without it. However, there are some important details in it, such as how to route the brake hose, so be sure to give it a thorough read. I've tried to make it as comprehensive as possible, but don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions.
Nigel
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I see some of you have received your kits already. Great news!
I'm working hard on getting the manual completed and I'll do my best to have it posted tomorrow.
Nigel
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Looking at the turbo supplement for the 1981 Turbo ZX, available an xenons130.com, it looks like the turbo coolant is fed from the hose at the back of the lower rad hose inlet, that also attaches to the heater core, and then returned to the thermostat housing below the thermostat.
L28ET's were oil cooled only. I don't believe they added water cooling until the Z31?
Correct feed will be from heater core line. I would normally run the return into the heater core return line but I've read about the cooling issues in the back of the head and plumbing more boiling coolant back there would be counter productive.
I was just looking for a quick solution since my T stat housing is non ZX and has a lack of ports to plumb into. Looks like I have a new scavenger hunt on my hands finding the T stat unit from a ZX. Thanks for your input, the last thing I want to do is rush some of these last details.
The heater core feed is from the back of the head, and the return goes to the fitting on the lower rad hose inlet to the water pump. I've run my turbo coolant source from the lower thermostat housing, through the turbo and into the heater core return to the the water pump. I've run it like that for over 10 years. No overheating issues.
Nigel
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Did you get my message?
Tom
Got it! Replied. Zilvia_gt, got yours too. I'll try to reply this evening.
Nigel
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It's been a very hectic past few days, but kits have shipped for everyone I've requested payment from. Hopefully they all arrive without incident.
Zilvia_gt and braid11, message me with your mailing address so I can get a shipping quote for you, and I'll get your kits out asap, once I receive payment.
I'm putting the finishing touches on the manual and should have that out soon.
Nigel
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Great, don't want you to be out any money, just charge me whatever the cable and shipping costs plus whatever profit you want for sorting it out. It was good that you helped me get the kit sorted quickly so I could get it fitted along with the other work I was carrying out.
I see your brake lines are different now, did you make much of a change from the version I have? I need to double check my clearances front and rear when I'm home next, ran out of time to check properly last time I was home. Pretty sure my lines were fine though.
It drives me crazy when I get in on what's claimed to be a good deal, only to find they've dropped the price even further a few months later! I don't want to do that to my customers.
When I was sourcing brake lines for your kit, the only manufacturers I could find were US based. For the production run, I just happened to find a local manufacturer that I actually had a contact at. He let me borrow fittings and brake hose to experiment with hose routing, which I spent considerable time doing. But in the end, I pretty much came back to the same configuration I supplied to you. The only real difference is that I added the spring guard for some extra protection, since it added very little to the cost. Beyond that, they're both made to the same DOT specifications.
Nigel
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$15 PRICE DROP!
After reviewing my production costs, I've decided that in addition to including the centering rings at no extra charge, I'm also going to drop the kit price by $15. So, the kits are now $310 for the first 10, and $335 thereafter. I'm serious about this kit having a future, so I'd like to make the pricing as competitive as possible. I'd like to drop the price more, but paypal fees will eat a few dollars, and I would like to make some profit after all the work that has gone into this
Regardless, I am certain that for a rear disk conversion that includes a functioning parking brake, you will find nothing better than this conversion without spending well over $1000!
KyleG, since you've already paid cash, I'll refund you the $15 when I mail you the fasteners.
EF Ian, if I (hopefully) do another production run, I'll cut you a bit of a deal on a cable. Can't do much though, because I barely broken even with your kit, being a one-off run.
Nigel
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Picking up packing material tomorrow. Shipping to begin this week. Watch your inbox for a payment request.
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Can I still get in on this current group buy. I just saw the thread now and I am very interested. Thanks
Unfortunately, I'm all sold out. I had some extras made up, but they've already been claimed.
I hope to do this again in the future, but I can't promise how soon that will be. I'd like to have some feedback from the current group first. If I do this again, hopefully it'll go a little faster now that I have all of the logistics worked out.
Nigel
Discount Price
1. 280zcar (w/ centering ring)
2. takayuki (w/ centering ring)
3. KyleG (w/ centering ring)
4. Ryan Merrill (w/ centering ring)
5. calpoly-z (w/ centering ring)
6. pchermit (w/ centering ring)
7. xxjoeyxxeb (w/ centering ring)
8. Leon (w/ centering ring)
9. Whitehead Performance (w/ centering ring)
10. SoC MATADOR (w/ centering ring)
Full Price
11. Zedfoot (w/ centering ring)
12. Dave W (w/ centering ring)
13. Edmarc A (w/ centering ring)
14. Zilvia_gt (w/ centering ring)
15. braid11 (w/ centering ring)
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Got the tabs sanded off and dropped the brackets off at the anodizer tonight. Thankfully, they're open until midnight.
Here's a sneak peek at the brackets before anodizing...
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Rings are done. I'm picking them up this weekend. Brake hoses should be finished by the end of the week. Last thing to do is have the brackets anodized. However, first I need to sand a small tab off of each piece that is a result of the water jet cutting process. Working 12+ hour days at the moment, but I hope to find the time tomorrow evening so I can drop the parts off at the anodizer by Thursday. Looks like I could have everything on hand early next week.
Nigel
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Good news. Earlier this week, I found a machinist willing to make the rings for $5/piece plus material. That's way better than the $20/piece plus material from the first shop I got a quote from. Their labour rate must be $200+/hour! They must have found out that I work in the nuclear industry and assumed I'd think rates like that were normal.
Brake cables arrived this past Monday. Hoses should be ready soon. Last thing to do is send the aluminum bits out for anodizing. I just have to belt sand a small tab of of each of them that is a left over from the waterjet cutting.
As a thank you to all of you for your patience, I'm going to include the centring rings free of charge
Nigel
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I have no way of knowing. I provided measurements earlier in this thread to check caliper clearance. I suspect 15's will fit up to 4" back spacing. With more back spacing than that, clearance to the banjo bolt head becomes an issue.Will these work with 15x7 0 offset konig rewinds?
Nigel
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Rotor to LCA interference seems to be a common issue with big brake kits.
I've seen a number of issues with aftermarket brake kits in general. I suspect this has to do with parts being designed with the car in the air and the wheels off the ground. Callipers, rotors, hoses, parking brake cables may all clear when the suspension is at full droop, but it often appears that little or no consideration is given to what happens as the suspension travels through it's full range of motion. I've seen brake hoses fail from being too short for full suspension compression! That's why when I designed my rear brake kit, I went to the trouble of pulling the spring from the strut and spent hours and hours checking everything through the full range of motion.
Nigel
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Unfortunately the S30's brake design with the rotor mounted to the backside of the hub doesn't allow for a simple spacer to move things out.
The hat can be machined down to offset the rotor outboard and then spacers added to the calliper to compensate. The only limitation is calliper to wheel spoke clearance.
Nigel
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Great thread !...what im trying to understand is TTT is saying there lower control arm doesnt need to be trimmed with there big brake kit but it does with arizona z car brake kit ?....they both have 1.25inch rotors so how can it work with there kit at TTT and not Daves ?
It's not the rotor width that's the issue, it's how much inboard it's offset. To simplify the caliper bracket, the AZC rotor is offset inboard to keep it centred in the caliper. This moves the rotor closer to the control arm.
Nigel
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Nigel, never saw that thread and didn't know you missed some events because of it. I see where the info is on AZC site but the problem is I bought my brake kit 8 years ago from Dave and just purchased the LCA few weeks ago. If my car was running I could have ruined a set of rotors like others have.
Guess we all live and learn BUT there should be a note on the TTT site or something in the package when you get the parts in the mail. If someone isn't looking for the rotors to be close and the car is in the air installed then we know what the outcome is. Hopefully this thread and the one you posted here will help the next person.
I don't think TTT can really be held responsible for an issue with AZC's design though? TTT can't possibly take into account every possible variation from every other competitors product. It's a risk we take when we start mixing aftermarket parts from different vendors. What pissed me off is that the AZC kit didn't even work with stock control arms and there definitely was insufficient warning about that!
But yes, live and learn. I'm tired of learning the hard way though.
Nigel
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I guess, I will need to snap another picture that shows the ball joint dust boot almost touching the rotor. The picture I have up has two issues that hides the problem: The wheel is turned fully locked to the right and the boot you see isn't what came on the ball joints - I changed it. I believe I have less than 1/4" clearance between the rotor face and dust boot on the ball joint. The concern is it catching fire like the picture posted above. Some serious track time, I can see some heat transfer going on there from rotor to boot.
Ball joint concern, is it being mounted on the bottom face of the arm rather than on the top face like oem ball joints are installed. Why not rely on the flange of the ball joint then relying on the bolts when it is mounted under the arm?
No disagreement about the dust boot. BTW, I'm talking about clearance to the AZC rotor with stock LCA's, not to a stock brake rotor.
Most of the ball joint force will be horizontal, so the ball joint bolts are going to be primarily under shear load in either case (top or bottom mount). I don't believe there will be much in the way of vertical force.
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There's a guy in our club (Ontario Z Car) who just made over 600 Hp on a 3.1l L28 with a triple Mikuni blow-through setup. No EFI. I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see the dyno sheet. So it can be done. I don't have many details beyond that though.
Nigel
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The TTT LCA's are not the issue. The AZC brake rotors don't clear stock LCA's either. There's a thread on here about that...
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/63280-azc-wilwood-rotor-damage/?hl=+azc%20+brakes%20+nigel
My rotors were ruined just backing out of my garage. I was livid!
The clearance between the rotor and the ball joint boot is no different with stock LCA's either.
Not quite following what the concern is about the ball joint vs bolt strength?
Nigel
28psi at fuel rail causing issue?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
To expand on NewZed's reply,
Base regulator pressure (no vacuum line attached) is ~36 psi
Idle vacuum is likely around 16 in/mercury = -8 psi
36 - 8 = 28psi
Nigel