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HybridZ

J__

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Posts posted by J__

  1. if ur goin to replace the tierod also then the sledgehammer way works well. but if not, u MIGHT run a risk of messing it up with a sledge hammer. up here in canada we can borrow automotive tools from canadian tire. whne you borrow it, u pay the full price of the tool. then when u return it, they give u all the money back = free use of tools. not bad eh. :D i went to ca tire and borrowed their balljoint tierod puller. pretty much looks like a jaw like clamp and a long bolt in the middle. u just anchor the clamp and turn the bolt. the bolt slowly presses the tierod out. it wont budge until eventually u hear a loud gunshot and get the crap scared outta u. then voila. done. no damage, no sweat, and no broken bones or suspension parts. takes like 30 seconds. i would invest the time to go find the proper tools.

  2. ok im about to ask a couple of stupid questions lol. im in the process of putting my car back together, do i need to press the ball joints and tierods back into the knuckle with a press? or do i just put it in by hand and tighten the nut until it cant be tightened anymore?

     

    2nd question is for the bump stops, i have the hyper flex ones from the bushing kit, its tapered at one end, im goin to cut them a bit to allow more travel. but can i put the bumpstops in upsidedown? the tapered end should point down towards the ground i assume. but the flat end doesnt allow the bump stop to sit flush at the top because the inside of the spring upper seat is curved. if i bottom the car the bumpstop will get pushed into the seat the the curved edge will rub and destroy the bump stop. im pretty sure thats how the old ones broke apart. from looking at one of the remains, the top of the bump stop corroded away from rubbing against the top of the seat becuase it was flat and the seat was curved. i drew a picture to show it better... did it at 4:40 am freehand so it's not straight and looks like crap lol dont laugh

     

    #1 is the bump stop pointing down like it should, but the flat end doesnt sit flush with the curved upper spring seat so the sides rub the bump stop and eventually it'll probably discintegrate.

    #2 is turning the bump stop upside down so it sits properly

     

    bumpstop.jpg

  3. ?? you want to do a bmw headlight conversion onto a Z? they wont fit unless you do a complete front end revamp.... that would make the Z look HORRIBLE! if u just want to swap over the round chrome part, whats the point? 1, they are different size and 2, u can get "crystal clear" 7" ones already on ebay and other places that fit the Z directly. these bmw lights dont have projectors so there's no real need to do the conversion, unless u want to put in the whole headlight... then.... uh.... NO DONT DOOO IT!!!! :cry:

  4. im doin the 4x4 front and disk brake conversion in the back. im wondering if the dust plates in the front are required? wats the advantages of having them on/off. i can imagine having them on would protect againts degris or mud from getting at the vents.... but having them off would save some weight (uh...) and provide better cooling. but then again with the backspacing on my new wheels i have plenty of cooling.... lol

     

    brakes03.jpg

     

     

    i want to keep the dust shield off but since the rotor actually sticks out that much, susceptable to oncoming road debris (as opposed to the "protect" rotors protect by the wheel on rims with more backspacing), is it better to keep the dust shield on?? tia

  5. to prevent rust etc etc. i've decided to go with herculiner but the idea of using marine paint popped in my head. ive tried to search but havent found a member that used marine paint. boats and ferries are in salt water 24/7 and the paint seem to last very well. anyone have experience or tried using it intead of undercoating to prevent rust/corosion etc etc? tia

  6. dayz: yea i love photography, i'll be taking the z out for a shoot for sure once im done with it. reason i don twant undercoating is i'll be daily driving the sucker, lots of rain and stuff up here. if it chips from rocks (its soft) then the water'll get stuck underneath =( i wanted something hard so bedliner was suggested by many members it seems.

     

    matsonjb: thnx! awesome, i'll order from em. how much is 1 qt? i need a can thats like 954ml one of those small ones. is that a qt? or is 1 qt spray can size

     

     

     

    i didnt use zero-rust or por15. i just sprayed primer, then brushed on som plasti-kote no rust paint. yea my autobody buddy thats helping me with the project told me to brush on the paint to save some money. cost me $15cdn for a can that lasted both the wheel wells and underbelly with more than half can left to spare. but the thing is the damn paint is so thick now haha. its like a layer of laquer over the wheel wells... is that bad? a thick layer of top coat? i dont want to strip it again =*(

     

     

     

    edit: how many quarts of herculiner do i need for 2 wheel wells and both undersides of the floor pans?

  7. ok so for my wheel wells and under carriage i stripped off the old undercoating, repaired some rust, applied primer, then paint, and now im goin to apply a bedliner. i did some searches here and on classiczcars, ppl have suggested herculiner as a great product. i went to the local lordco but they dont carry it. neither does canadian tire. but lordco does have a product called Gator Guard 2. similiar product as herculiner. claims to be the top 3 sprayable bedliners and has the dominion sure seal ltd. anyone have experience with gator guard? is it comparable or up to par with herculiner? thnx

     

    edit: it's epoxy based (not sure what herculiner is) there is also another one called Hippo Liner only diff is that it's urethane based. is epoxy better than urethane?

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