mxgsfmdpx
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Posts posted by mxgsfmdpx
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Also, did you use the lizzard skin as the undercoating? Or what did you use for that? It looks great! Thanks.
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any closeup pics of the lizard skin finish?
I would like to see this as well. Also curious as to how well it works for sound deadening. Seriously considering this!
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A teaser shot of it just after paint... I had this surprise picture on my phone when I got home from work just now.
So sick! Following your build closely. Thanks for sharing!
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I've heard plenty of tall tales about buried speedos and a '71 260ZX turbo stock from the factory. Seems as if people either have bad memories or time has warped them a bit. My stock answer that seems to make people happy and move on is 'Yeah, they're fun cars, aren't they?'
lol. I've learned to just roll with a nice "stock" phrase as well. Something along the lines of "Yeah these cars are a lot of fun, okay ttyl!" haha.
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I swear people used to drive so much faster then we do now...
I have had several people tell me about how much they miss their "old z" Probably about 10-15 people in the month that I've owned it.
2 guys from my work who used to have S30's told me about how they used to drive 140 MPH down the highways in them?!?!?!? Ridiculous.
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OH SNAP!!!!
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Those look so sick! Can't wait to see more photos.
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Call me dumb, but what exactly is a "headpipe" ?
This is the "middle section" of the exhaust which includes the X or H pipe. Basically from the headers to where it will bolt up to the remaining pipes/mufflers/tips. Does that help explain it?
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My first Z was my 1990 300ZX. Purchased in January of 2003, sold in April of 2005...
My second Z was my 2003 350Z. Purchased in May of 2005., sold in May of 2007...
My current and never to be sold Z is my 1972 240Z. LS1/T56 in the works...
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My Excel spreadsheet at work covers the costs for pretty much everything. This also includes ME doing all the labor, including body work and paint...
Body work/paint
Interior work
LS1 Build
T56 Build
R200 Diff Build
JCI Motor/Tranny Mounts
AZ Z Car Suspension/Brakes/Diff Mount
Fuel System
Tuning
There are MANY details involved for each part of the build. I HIGHLY suggest you do A TON more research. Not to be mean, but you obviously have not researched this like I did for a couple years before diving into the project. Research, save your money, and start the build when you have the knowledge and funds to get it done.
My total build budget right now is right at $27,000.
Thanks.
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I think the 3" exhaust is for single exhaust systems like on 4th Gen F-Bodies.
There are several reasons for the 2.5" headpipes. First is of course ground clearence. The second is because of the location of the cutouts is being planned to be placed just after where the header collectors end and the headpipes begin. So because of that, anytime you'd be racing logic says the cutouts would be open, bypassing the rest of the exhaust anyway.
The cutouts themselves will be 3", the reduced down to 2.5". As far as H or X pipe, that has yet to be decided until the header prototype is completed and I begin to mock up the headpipe prototype.
Sounds good.
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Still interested, and the timeframe works for me. I'm hoping to add a moderate cam to my LS3, so I was really hoping to get the larger 1 7/8" primaries. Is it a fitment the reason to go 1 3/4"?
Keep the updates coming!
1 3/4 primaries is actually more than enough needed to run a pretty aggressive cam. Check out LS1tech and view the thread "the recipe to 500 rwph NA" Great info there.
You should be more concerned about the piping diameter going down to 2.5 inches instead of 3 inches. For the LS1 motors with aggressive heads and cam, a full 3 inch exhaust with either an X or H pipe is highly recommended.
Cable, is the 2.5 inch piping all we can do? 3 inches would provide optimum performance gained from the custom long tubes. Also these will be an X pipe correct?
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Cable, that pricing is awesome! I assume both the headers and the headpipes will come with all the necessary hardware and gaskets needed for install? Can't wait t see the prototypes installed on your car. Please also provide pictures of the headpipes installed so we can see the bends and how it routes. Thanks!
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they look really nice. Here is a real question we will all have LS1 240z or variants. How much power do we really need? We are not done building the car up yet and its not drivable. Stock is 340bhp, some mods, cam, intake, shorty header, tunner are pretty basic. I think that will make easy 450bhp? It depends on the setup. 0-60 in 4sec or less? 1/4 mile in 11.5? Something like that. Now we have long headers to gain how much more hp?
It's all about your engine build. See my above posts.
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Oh well - That time frame won't work for me... I would need a set in no more than 30 days... The price sounds good, but I will say that I have my doubts about the 3" collector clearance - will be curious to see how you are able to figure that out... Also with the larger primaries, there might be other clearance challenges. Finally, I'd like to see the ground clearance - My Z is being built (almost done) to be my daily driver...
Also, for the discussions related to increased performance and "max gains" - in order for that to be achieved, in my experience that means that they are designed with a specific cam, intake, rocker ratio, primary length and collector all designed together... otherwise you see marginal gains - my comments about the increased drone from running larger pipes vs. the increased power are still valid within that context. The explanations given by mxgsfmdpx were valid, but that "maximization" in my experience is only achieved with all the other components working in unison...
100% correct.
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Swapping in a narrowed 8.8 is doable, but I wouldn't call it the easiest, cheapest, or quickest way of building a bullet-proof rear end
Do some searching on swapping in an r-200 diff and building it up with CV axles and your choice of LSD unit.
I really can't be of much help with your other questions / concerns since I don't know, well, anything about the coyote engine, but it sure sounds like a great and unique project!
The other cool part about using an R200 diff is there are a couple manufacturers who sell everything you need to get it to bolt up to the Z, aka no fabrication on your end.
Also JCI, (John's Cars/Broken Kitty) sells a driveshaft that goes from the T56 to the R200 Diff.
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Well for all the headaches that 3" pipes create to gain a small amount of hp it ain't worth it. Plus I don't care what anyone says - 30 years experience tells me that 3" pipes are louder than 2.5" 99.99% of the time.
If you make 1.5" into 2.5" I'm interested
You can still run 2.5 inch pipes after the collector, all the way back.. The 3 inch collector (if it will fit) is important for getting the best flow and most power out of the headers...
As the piston reaches the top of the exhaust stroke, it dwells as the crankshaft sweeps across the top of its stroke. This is where valve overlap occurs. Before the piston reaches Top Dead Center, the intake valve begins to open. The trick is to design the exhaust system so that the exhaust pulse leaves behind a pressure drop or vacuum to take advantage of the valve overlap. If successful, the combustion chamber will exchange residual exhaust gases for a fresh air/fuel mixture before the piston has any real effect on the intake charge.
To design a successful exhaust system or tuned header, the tube size and length are selected based on a list of engine specifications (specifications Cable has posted through his research of the LS1 motor) and application characteristics. The tube size controls the speed of the exhaust pulse, too big or small and the velocity (energy) is lost. The tube length and collector diameter is all about timing the pulse to synchronize with the cam in a specific RPM range.
We want to be able to run certain cams/heads to make certain power levels, which are not usable with stock exhaust manifolds, or the current "shorty" headers applied into the Z's with LS1's.
Again, the research has been done for the LS1 motors, and the diameters of each part of the headers being designed are to perfect spec.
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I agree! There is limited room plus the 1 7/8 into 3" would be loud given the limited room for mufflers. Not sure if the bump in size would be worth the drone in the passenger compartment. Also, the gain in hp vs 1 1/2 into 2 1/2 would be negligible IMHO
The point of long tube, large diameter headers is for making power. If you research LS1 tech, the specs that Cable posted are EXACTLY what are recommended for making the most power and torque out of an NA LS1 motor. It has been researched for years and the information is available if you seek it.
As far as the "loudness", sound quality is all personal preference. A good set of mufflers goes a long way, also pipe design, and how the exhaust exits the car. Simply having a larger diameter pipe does NOT mean it will always be louder, and absolutely does NOT mean it will drone more.
If you don't want a loud open exhaust, you WILL NOT make as much power. I'm sorry, but that is the truth. Again, it has been researched and proven via years of LS1 study and trial. With smaller diameter and less free flowing shorty headers, you cannot build the cam and valve train on the LS1 motor as radical as you can with the long tube design, again, long tubes are for making POWER.
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I was just under the car and did some measuring. I am using a LS1 and T56. all with the JCI mounting. if the collector is 3" it would have to be reduced to 2.5 since there is not enough room under the transmission mount.
Are you talking about the piping after the collector being reduced, or the collector itself? A lot of the big power LS1 guys (CFB) will run a 3 inch collector, and then 2.5 inch piping all the way back to the muffler(s)anyway.
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Cable, you have about 10 confirmed (pending details) already. Might want to think about bumping up the first batch from 5 to 10, if not even more... Just food for thought. Thanks again!
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Cable, sounds awesome! I would buy a set of long tubes for sure. This way I can build my LS1 to the specs I really want. The exhaust pipe diameters are perfect, and mimic what all the LS1 builders suggest for headers, and are the sizes recommended on LS1tech for making 500WHP out of an NA LS1. Thanks!
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I am running factory hoses that I modified. The lower hose I just shortened. The upper hose I cut a section of the center of the hose and spliced back together using an aluminum coupler (1.5" diameter) with a 1/8" pipe fitting for my steam vent. I got mine iff eBay for $10 shipped.
Awesome! Thanks.
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I should note that I am running a Lincoln Mark VIII electric fan that I picked up off eBay for $50 shipped with my JTR radiator kit.
Does the factory LS1 Coolant hose that runs from the thermostat to the radiator work, or does it have to be customized?
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Just do a search of showcars and read the horror stories. If you want metal flares do a search for Modded VW bug flares.
I am okay with having fiberglass front fenders with flares already in them, those I can find and they just bolt in. It's the rears that are causing concern. I'd rather weld in a replacement metal rear fender with flares, then try and blend in a fiberglass piece to the metal.
Forum etiquette, HBZ style.
in Non Tech Board
Posted
I read the information provided from this site long before I joined. I joined once I actually purchased my 240Z. This forum is full of information if you just search and read. I see some of the "new" topics started and shake my head since I have read probably well over half the content on this forum. You can learn pretty much everything by simply searching and reading the different sub forums.
With that being said, I think it wouldn't hurt if people tried to be more helpful... Instead of saying, "search" and "this has been discussed blah blah amount of times" help guide them to a thread that discusses their question. If you took the time to respond negatively, you can take the time to respond helpfully.