Nismo180

By the time you get the multiple ECUs, and wiring harnesses you need bought, installed, and working together you'd probably be better off just buying a GT-R and putting a 240Z shell over the top of it.

OMG I finally found them! I had seen all your videos up to I think 9 and lost the website where I found them all. I <3 your Z and will probably be making an insignificantly and tiny donation soon oh yeah color: silver off the Z-tune skylines IMO

Don't see how you could acuse my statement as being supossed truth taken from the internet, it's hard to argue that in an all things being equal, enviroment, the longer engine would protrude further forward. Besides, I noticed he was talking about RB20 swapping it so he would still have the I/C piping and other turbo accesories out front that your I6 car lacks. Besides that in the example your using for how between the two different engines the weight balance is near identical the setup wasn't optimized in the SR20 car. If your main goal was indeed preserving overhanging weight why in the world is the Intercooler all the way out in front? My radiator in my 240sx sits roughly 3inches from the front of the crank pulley, just enough room to squeeze a fan in, and the I/C sits directly in front of that. I've moved a 20lb radiator back 9 inches, and a near 30lb I/C back more than a foot, not to mention saved a number of pounds in the I/C pipping and spool up time in the lower volume of intercooler piping. If those strategies had been used in your example a different result would have occured undoubtedly. What I'm getting at is that it is indeed dependant of setup and where you put everything, but if you have a 2 foot long 400lb motor, and a 3foot long 500lb motor and have no plans of cutting the firewall that 3foot long motor will have more weight closer to the front of the car than the 2footer, period. The SR can be mounted further back than a motor that is longer than it. Yes, if you throw a bunch of weight out front it'll change the balance/distribution. But, as far as the basics of it, I was correct.

Perfect chance for you to do that N/A 12k RPM RB26 build I've been dreaming of!

RB26Dett has the front diff inside the oil pan. Transfer case is part of the transmission. RB25 oil pan and transmission(both bolt right up) and it's just like a RWD setup. Just need to get your driveline right.

RB20 has a T25 non-ball bearing turbo out of the box. Good for about 260-280 at the flywheel. The first big problem your going to run into going with a bigger turbo is the fact that there aren't many, if any, aftermarket manifolds for the engine, which means your best shot is a stock fitting internally wastegated turbo. Lucky for you there are plenty of them! GT28RS the infamous disco potato these days they are reasonably priced available everywhere and on that motor will spool just before you decide to put your foot into it. Yout looking at 320whp for a cap on that one. Then there is the Potato 2 the GT2871R little bit bigger everything with better technology in the bearings looks to spool damn near as well as the potato but has been proven to get 400 to the ground in .86 form. The smaller A/R version spools a little better but 360 is about the best I've heard. Then you can look at GT-RS from HKS 400-450 to the ground. The GT30 series will almost bolt right on, there are plenty of options. Just remember your going to need a better MAF and injectors too if you want a bigger turbo. The stock ones all top out around the 230whp mark.