Daemione

cool . . . not quite what I imagined, but you've got the later style bumpers. 79-80 non-integrated style might be easier to trim? Hard to tell. What front lip is that? Nah, I don't agree. Just looks different than the bulbous stock bumpers, and that's all we're used to without totally covering them up with other kits.

Sure do! I buy a car because I want to drive it every day, and not suffer driving something else while I wish I was driving it. If I ever find the reasonably priced, non-molested, manual transmission equipped '88-91 325ix I've been wanting forever, I'll use that instead.

Thanks for the update - I've been keeping an eye on this thread, as I'll be due for a rotor & pad replacement in the near future. Fitting under a set of 16's is great, although I've been using my stock 14's as winter wheels. :/

Thanks, I'll take another look at it. Is it spring loaded? Got the horn to work a few times today, but it's still not consistent.

Every time I pull my steering wheel (been fixing/refinishing my dashboard), my horn stops working after I reinstall it, but eventually starts working again after a few months. I can't find anything specific on it in the service manual. However it looks like there's a contact that glides around the hub surface. As far as I can tell it's still making contact, but horn function is intermittent at best. Is there a trick to getting to work again right away? I haven't had much luck, and I need it to pass an inspection in the near future . . . Thanks!

I'd love to see some decent pictures of an installed Xenon urethane air dam . . . It's up on eBay all the time, MSA has it here. Or the one with brake ducts here - I'm pretty sure they're the Xenon ones. But the pictures on MSA's site don't help much, and neither do the few others I can find online. They're all either at a crappy angle, poor lighting, or totally unpainted & the hood up at the same time.

meh, double post. No way to delete a post on this forum?

Mine's a '79 - I haven't taken them apart before, so I don't know how much they really compress. But any amount of push in would take some cutting to make the covers fit right. Took a couple pictures, and painted in a couple rough lines for what would need to be trimmed/chopped. I've looked at a lot of pictures of shaved rear ends, google image search brings up a lot of results. Using the terms "shaved" and "ass" brings up quite a few more. But I don't think I like it on a 280zx - and it's a lot more work than I want to put into it. Frankly, I've got bigger fish to fry, so I'm looking for something relatively quick to do as it's getting ready for bodywork & paint by the end of the summer. The bumper supports are all rusty, so they need to come off anyway to be sandblasted & painted, and I want to use some back-to-black on the covers, they're very faded.

Um, did you read my post? That's exactly what I want to do. But if I compress the shocks all the way, I'm pretty sure the covers are going to need some significant trimming to fit right. Just wanted to check in & see if anyone's done it before on a ZX.

I dunno, it'd take more than half a foot off the length of the vehicle, which I'd consider dramatic. The stock bumpers sticking out so far is a huge eyesore, although I guess they're handy for resting bags of groceries. I'm trying to remember the last time I hit anything (or was hit by someone) at less than 5 mph. At least half a million miles of driving, it's never happened. And I'm pretty sure that at 33 years old, the original bumper shocks are totally seized anyways.

I've looked around quite a bit, and haven't found anyone who's really tried this on an s130. Basically, I like the styling of the s30 a lot more than the s130. I like everything else about the s130 more than the s30 . . . especially the price and availability of non-molested rust free examples. Styling wise, a big problem (in my mind) the ZX has lies in the bumpers. Has anyone taken the stock bumper dampers, compressed them (like you'd need to do for some bodykits), and just remounted the stock bumpers & covers? It'd take some careful fab work with a cut-off wheel to trim off the rubber not needed anymore, but other than that it doesn't look like it'd be that involved. And potentially the chance to make a dramatic difference in the overall proportions of the car. Thoughts?

Great, thanks for the input. Have any of you put the carpet back in without it? How badly does it affect fitment by not having it in there?

So I've recently pulled most of the interior out of my '79 2-seater. The plan is to track down some water leakage, add sound deadening & insulation, replace all the carpet, and refurb/replace the all the interior panels. In poking around, it looks like the entire metal box/cage area behind the seats will unscrew & come right out. I'm talking about the frame that the cubbies are mounted into, and that the stock speakers screw into. Anyone have any experience in doing this - I want to make sure I'm not impacting something important by removing the whole thing. I'm thinking I could either carpet over where it used to be & enjoy the little bit of extra interior volume & marginal weight reduction, or fab up a simplified version of it that would hold a small amp & subwoofer. I guess my main concern (without having pulled it yet) is what it's role is on body stiffness - or if it's possibly some sort of safety buffer between occupants & the fuel tank.

Hi! I'm looking to replace the under-dash door chime on my s130. The one I've got now is goes bonkers every time I make a right hand turn. While amusing at first, the novelty is wearing off.

Sort of an old thread - but I'll chime in & support the Cipher seats. I got a set of the CPA1019's. They're very nice quality, and appear to be comfortable & supportive in all the right places. What I would NOT recommend are their brackets. They outsource them to a company called Wedge Engineering, and the ones I got were terribly designed (less than 3 threads holding the seat onto the bracket), and badly fitting. e.g. on the passenger seat there was 4+ inches of extra room on the inside, but I couldn't close the door because the bolster stuck out so much on the outside. I'm still fudging through designing some brackets of my own, but it's slow going with the limited amount of spare time I have.