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Posts posted by Ed260Z
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Sounds like you've done just about everything you need to do. You probably won't need the roll bar to stiffed the chassis, but it wouldn't hurt. If you decide to get a bar make sure it's a weld in piece, a bolt out won't do much for you.
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Whatever, you're wrong, and if you ever try to stick your keys into my Z again i'll make sure its the last thing you do.
Hey Q have you fiqured out what you plan on doing? From your post I can tell your starting to get aggrivated.
Just my suggestion here, so don't get to mad. Put the manifold back on Ebay, I sure you'll get more for it now since it looks so sweet. And for now go back to your original plan of using all the stock turbo components. Would porting the stock exhaust manifold help at all?
I'm still in the process of building my swap, in my head, and I've noticed that all of the new manifold that I've seen push the turbo(s) out too far. What I realy liked about that one is that the turbo is mounted on the bottom. I preffer a tight mounting set up.
There comes a time when you just need to stop . Step back and let it go. Get the car running, and then find a setup that you like. Besides I'm looking forward to some more write ups on your swap. So lets get going.
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I've done a Maxima rear caliper with 280ZX rear disk on my 260Z with no porblems. I'll be doing the front Toyo swap in the very near future, and will be upgrading to an early 280ZX master. I'm assuming the the Max and 240SX cali sould be about the same, so maybe you have another issue beside the prop. valve.
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Hi Forrest' date='
What are your intentions for the E-brake?
Cheers, Ari[/quote']
That's the only thing I don't like about the Wilwood rear brakes, No mech E-Brake. I've heard some stories about the line locks failing, and peoples cars rolling in to the street.
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Well' date=' appart from seperating the axle.
It turns out that my energy suspension kit didnt come with those bushings.. So I'll just do what you said.[/quote']
What bushing's are you missing? I got the master kit from Summit, and it had everything but the front swaybar bushings.
Be prepared to have a whole lot of fun with the spindle pins!
The springs will drop your car alot. Here is a shot of mine to give you a preview.
It also helps to use a drift pin, and lots of grease when your trying to reassemble the LCA to the strut.
Have fun.
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I think that there is also a difference in the # of coils. The Stock coils have 11 turns, while the Tokico are 8.
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C’mon guys… Are you building Show cars or great handling sports cars?
You guys seem hell bent on trying to fix what AIN’T broke and letting the front suspension remain with all of its issues....
I'm not building a show car' date=' but I do want to update the car as much as possiable. And the front of the S30 deffinately has more issues than the rear. But I haven't seen any modifications that I really like yet enough to open a disscusion about them. I've seen the Corvette IRS and the S13/S14 IRS mod done on the S30. Of the 2 I liked the 240SX the most. Why? Because I always heard that the 240SX was a great handling car. But there are a lot of open questions as too whether or not this swap is an "upgrade".
And johnc asked one of the most important questions yet.
A simple question:
Does anyone know where the roll and instant centers are on the 240SX rear suspension?
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There are a few system you can buy that will do that for you. But if you ever plan on useing this car on the street I would keep the booster for a lot of reason. I can live with no power steering, but no power assist brakes. A race course is a controlled environment, the street isn't.
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I got my Tokkico HP struts and springs off Ebay at a great price. The combo cost me less than getting the just the stuts from MSA. But I'm not that happy with the springs. It dropped the car to low for my taste. The front cross member is only 3" off the ground!!
I hear a lot of good things about the guys @ AZ, and they use this forum. Same with MM.
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I'd put a spacer on the turbo and have it stick up out of the hood a litle. but that's jsut me. maybe I'll do it if i got with an rb
Not to diss, but why would you want the turbo to stick out the hood? If you did that I'd get a nice coffe can to use as a muffler!
Anybody want some RICE.
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I believe some of the EARLY 73's are different from the Later Ones. The best way is to pretty much just get under the darn car and look.
I've had more than a few Z's over the years, 72-78 models. The 72 had the early mount. And my 73 had the later style mount. I can't remember what month it was built, so I can say for sure if an early 73 had an early mount. BUt Datsun was good at makeing mid year changes. At most the early mount was around for the first 3 1/2 yrs, and the later was out for at least 5 1/12 yrs.
I think the best meathod of mounting the RB tranny to the S30 is to make a new mounting point in the Z's tunnel. My plan is to use the mounting tabs of the Skyline, and weld them into the Z.
Based on the pics that I've seen the GTS tranny mounts at least 3" behind the S30's. That ,IMO, is a lot of pressure to put on 30+yr old welds, and the mounting tabs. It seems to me that that would be a definate weak point in the swap. I would rather see a "swap kit" that includes a weld in tranny mount, that would properly locate the mounting point in the S30 tunnel. Since all of the S30 tunnels are the same it would be the only way to make a "universal" mount.
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all that work with a race car and he's not using a 26?
not dissing the 25 i may put one in my Z but this guy's going all lot with a 25
The pics aren't showing right now, but I'm pretty sure it is a RB26DETT. And the guy says he took the motor out of a GTR.
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.............I understand he wanted to verify the carbs were actually too lean (pulling the choke made the car run better) and to find out at what RPM so we could get to the jetting or go back to his old round top SUs..........
If there is a choice I would change back to the SU's. It apparent that he is still new to Auto Mechanics, and the Webers can be a real bear (Even to the experienced guys) to work on. The only way to learn is to have some fun, and sense of accomplishment from what you did. I'm not saying that after a week or 2 reading about, and playing with, the SU's you'll be an expert. But it will be much easier to get the SU's close to the right settings.
I'm not saying to get get proffesional help when you need it. And it does take me longer to do the work in my driveway than if it was done in a shop. But that can be a good thing since I take my time and make sure it's done right. (I'm not getting paid by the job)
To answer the question on this thread; I would say that the answer is a big NO!!!!!!
But that's not to say that the shop won't try and take advantage. As a joke I once told someone (Names will be with held to protect the innocent) that the car needed it's Flux Capasitor Relay Coil replace, and that it would run about $800, but I would see if could be done for less. And to my amazement I was asked if could be done the same day. When they came back @ 5:30 to get the car they where ready to write me the check. If I wanted to be a complete SOB-JO I could have taken their money, and they would have thanked me for it. The moral is if it doesn't sound right, or you think you heard it in a movie, do some homework and don't be taken in.
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The name of the co. that I was thinking about is Lokar, but they don't make what you need. I found this by surfing the web, and I think that this is what you are talking about.
http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/master_cylinder_systems.html
It's designed to fit between the frame rails of a body on frame set up. But if yor doing a full cage I'm sure that you can make it work.
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Back in the day I was a mechanic (Just long enough to rack up a $50K Snap-On bill) at a Mom & Pop place that worked on every make and model car that would come through door. The owner was good at trying to find info on the older cars that came in so that he wouldn't be talking out his A$$, but there where still situation that you still couldn't keep the customer happy. The moral of this story is that the big chain shops are not set up, or have the info, to work on these old cars. And most of their Techs are green peas that where born in the late 80's.
Lucky for your the Z is a fairly easy car to work on, all you really need are a few work shop manuals, and forums like this one. The best part is you don't need to know how to work on all the other cars out there, you can "specialize" in your Z.
Not to mention all the money you will save if you do most of your own work. For instence I was feeling a little lazy a few months back and after re-doing my entire suspesion I needed an allignment. I never replaced the outer tie rod ends since I didn't want to mess with that with out a machine, and I told them to do it for me. They had the balls to tell me $175 per side plus $50 for the allignment. I mean come on it's a 15 min job. ($350!!!!!!!) I said forget it and did it my self. If I had to pay a shop to do all the work I've done so far I would have spent nearly 5 times as much!!!!!!!! I would rather buy more parts for my car than pay someone who probably knows less about the car than I do.
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The only sujestion I have would be to call Modern Motorsports, and get the correct lines. They are not that expensive, and the brakeing system is the last thing I'd want to "Jerry Rigg".
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Link no workie....
The link was in my first post. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=96050
He did a good write up on his swap.
I see that this post has turned into a IRS suggestion box for some reason. But many have said that the S13/S14 IRS is a compromise, of ride comfort and performance, so are these others. And I would assume that the level of fabrication required to make these other systems work maybe more inlvolved that the Nissan. True a Double Wishbone IRS would be ideal, but this was not indended to be a suggestion box. I wanted to discuss the merrits, and drawbacks of doing this type of swap.
Since I'm about a year or so away before I start to actually modify my IRS I could allways open up another thread on doing a Toyota, Corvette, Mazda, Jag, ect...................... The possiabilities are almost endless, with enogh imagination.
With that said I realy appreciate everyones comments and suggestions, but can we keep it on the subject.
Thanks,
Ed:twisted:
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I'm also hoping to recover some of my cost by selling the some of the Stock Z parts that I have. Like the SU carbs ect.....
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That will depend on if you have a early or late 260Z.
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I know I wish they made these in 16" but they need a monster order before they make them.
If you want 16" rims in this style you'll need to go with Panasport.
But be prepared to $pend a lot more for these bad boys.
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I know it cost a lot of money to do an rb swap' date=' but you don't have to have an unlimited amount of money. A 20k budget is still a budget. I don't like the fact that when someone wants to "budget" an rb swap people make statement's like "well if you want to do it on a budget you can't afford it."
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I hear you on that one! Excluding the car, I don't see why I can't do my swap for around $6-7K. This would be keeping the RB mostly stock. After the motor is in I can start to "tweak" every thing else out. And when I'm ready for more power I'll do what needs to be done in stages. (And by ready I mean $$$$$$$)
I know that in the end I would have spend around $25K, including the car, to do everything that I want to do. But that doesn't mean that I need $25K in my bank right now. I figure that with my work schedule, and family time, it will take around 2 years to get it all done. Of course I would love to take 3 months off of work, and does this swap full time, but I just don't got it like that.
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You'll need 225/50's if you want to keep the stock tire height. I don't think you will have a great selection of tires with a 215 size. And all the 215's I found where more $$$ than the 225's.
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245 would be way to wide for a 7" rim. They would buldge out to much. I would stick with a 225 if you want a wider tire than a 205.
sub frame connectors....i searched
in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Posted