palauoriginal
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Posts posted by palauoriginal
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This site helped me a ton. http://www.xenons130.com/
its a total of 5 of 7 wires that need to be spliced in iirc
I also have a documented l28et swap on my blog.
v
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Took a vid without the silencer.
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"ebay (RS speed) 3 inch. It was actually quite huge but its pretty quiet and pretty decent looking. I'm happy with it."
Looks like they have a motorcycle style restrictor installed in the end of the muffler.
its a in-muffler silencer. It came with it installed it comes out if you remove the bolt. I haven't removed it yet.
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ebay (RS speed) 3 inch. It was actually quite huge but its pretty quiet and pretty decent looking. I'm happy with it.
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A nice day to stretch her legs..
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wrap header and downpipe and use a turbo blanket.
check out this subaru thread in which they test engine temperatures with an infared
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no im looking for the L-piping coming from the turbo that goes to oil pan.
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Hello, I'm looking for a stock t3 turbo oil drain. Thanks!
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AZC uses inverted shocks. Meaning, adjusting the front shock settings can be a pain.
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The car had been running prior to the swap so the original transistor ignition is probably fine. Honestly, I am trying to document the conversion and do a write up about it so others can use it if their ICM fails... but unfortunately I am running into difficulties, heh. I set up the conversion so it can be easily converted back to the original transistor ignition.
I may have damaged the module, I'll pick up a replacement one and test it when i get the chance. Luckily, I have a daily.
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I picked up an running l28et a couple months ago for $1000. It had upgraded injectors, harness,ecu,flywheel, afm, 300zx turbo and a rebuilt head.
The price seemed fair to me.
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Tony, I didn't. I figured it was probably very similar though.
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And, by "HEI is grounded by a wire" you mean the mounting hole with the wide ferrule is grounded. That's the important one, I believe.
I have the HEi module attached to an aluminum mounting/cooling plate underneath the coil/coil bracket. For one of the mounting holes on the HEI module, there is a metal area that comes out of the plastic. I figured that was the grounding area so I wired a wire to the chassis.
What do you mean by B/W wire has a constant 12V? Not affected by ignition switch position? ..... I only needed the black white wire, which in my case was an ignition, not a constant.
Have you checked voltages at each terminal? With key on and while cranking?
Also, I found that I had a hard time starting the car when I had the red and green wires backwards.
It was a switched 12v activated when it is "on" position(black/white). There is another wire that provides 12v (blue wire) for an ignition boost.
So, I just got back from work. I disconnected my old module. Tried it. No Start. Switched my R and G wires and Tried it. No start.
I am getting 11.9 ish volts from the b/w wire when key is "on".
Maybe its the coil or I messed up/recieved a damaged HEI module.
Thank you for responding!
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Hello,
I am installing an HEI on a 1975 Datsun 280z(CA) non-turbo. There is not that much information on the exact subject but I took a look at some diagrams and it isn't that hard to grasp. The problem is that apparently I wired something wrong because my car isn't starting. Maybe its just something small that I'm missing.
Anyways, here are some diagrams of the process I took.
This is the stock setup.
Here is the set up i am using with the HEI module installed. Excuse the nasty MS paint.
I have the outputs from my distributor connected, Red to W on the HEI and Green to G on the HEI. B on the HEI is connected to the (+) side of the coil and C on the HEI is connected to the (-) side of the coil. The HEI is grounded with a wire.
The (-) side of the coil has two wires connected to it.
- The C connection
- The blue wire for tach signal and ecu pulse.
The (+) side of the coil has 4 wires connected to it.
- The B connection
- The stock condenser
- The B/W wire with constant 12v
- The black and blue wire with 12v on ignition
I'm using an accel super stock coil that I've had for some time now. I am getting random sparks on ignition on and no spark while cranking.
Any input is appreciated.
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I know ebay accord springs fit on the Z, I cut them as well. I didn't know the rates but they were progressive and I threw them on. I about 2.5 inches lower. They go for like $50. I was pretty low but the ride was horrible as you would expect from cut springs.
I eventually got coilovers. Now everything is x1000 better.
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I am also looking for a turbo coolant feed atm.
anyone have some pics?
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Looking good! the black and chrome is menacing. cant wait for more pics
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A z with coilovers and welded diff can drift pretty well. You can see when the car is about to spin because he runs out of steering angle but he has good car control and keeps it sliding.
The car has a ford 302 swap btw.
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Not everybody likes them,plus they look much better on a wide body Z.I`ll stick with it for now.
I like them! a widebody would definitely make it look better but a whale tail is awesome either way.
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Nice, I enjoyed it.
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Hester_prynne, Car looks great! what size are those wheels?
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azc have ones that are built with integrated shorter steering arms
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Here's a quick photoshoot with my cousins truck.
I added rear zg fenders, excuse my retarded pose and dirty car.
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there is also performance options in Oakland
http://www.performanceoptions.net/
I've heard some iffy things about Blacktrax
New Toy: V6 Chevette
in Non Tech Board
Posted
Just picked up a new toy. Came with a Bucik 3.8 v6 swap, a t50 5 speed, and a monza posi-trac rear end. All it needs is some TLC, suspension, brakes, and a new paint job. It has so a lot a low end grunt so its a lot of fun for now ( burnout machine
) .
Just thought I'd share.