MusPuppis
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Posts posted by MusPuppis
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I wonder how the dual projectors would look on a stock 240.. Hm.
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God that car is nice.
Your website is one of the motivating factors in my Z build, hehe.
Congrats man, get more videos when that sucker is on the road.
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Scary car.. Very scary. Next to the Z the RX7's are some of my favorites (all gens). That ones a monster.
Oh,
Some folks enjoy doing the work themselves. If you have experience and know what you'r doing I dont see any reason you'd have to take it to a shop to have it done, unless you didnt have the time.
Dont get me wrong, the shop could turn the car around alot faster than an individual could, but for one ****-ton more money. And you lose the satisfaction of knowing you did the work, not your wallet. If the person is skilled, patient and has the finances theres no reason they cant accomplish the same level of quality that a shop could. Of course, alot of poeple arent patient or skilled and that doesnt stop them - when it probably should. Myself being a fine example.
NOthing wrong with taking your car to someone to have the work done - but dont knock those of us who enjoy doing it ourselves. Theres some DIY's here that put alot of profesional shop work to shame.
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Its not as bad as you'd think if you pay attention.
Jeff really doesnt drool for no reason.. So learning when hes gonna drool is what makes the difference, lol. If he comes in from outside - be ready. If he goes to get a drink - be ready. If he eats - be ready. If he gets excited or starts playing - be ready.
Its all about reflexes and preperation. I have drool clothes stored around the house in various spots so no matter where it happens I can head it off before he shakes. When he does he'll shoot drool EVERYWHERE. Walls, floor, ceiling.. Nothing is safe. And whenever I take him somewhere I bring several rags with me.
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4 banger out of a CRX HF.
64hp and even less torque but its so fuel efficient it makes its own gas. Put in enough to start the engine and your fine forever. Drain the tank every 5,000 miles or so and fill up your other vehicles, lol.
Seriously though, A chevy 6 could be interesting but I think theres better options available that would give better results with roughly the same investment in money and time.
Comes down to personal preference though. Do whatever you want to do.
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Thanks for the compliments.
I tied Jeff to an iron railing once so I could get the hose and such out to bathe him. He got nervous when he couldnt see me and freaked out when the leash pulled taught.. He reared back two good times before the leash snapped.. Before it gave way though he managed to bend the hell out of the railing. If the leash hadnt broken I think he would have pulled the anchors out of the concrete and ripped the whole thing down, lol.
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Quick pic.. I got a decent shot of Jeff jumping. Couldnt get one with him at full extension, but this is close. Thats me grinning like an idiot behind him by the way.
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Np man, anything I can do to help.
Your dryer plug is the standard 3 prong type right? Some older ones are 4 prong. 2 Hots, a ground and nuetral. If thats the case, just ignore the nuetral its not used on the compressor.
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Damn, looks like that engine was supposed to be in there all along. Ya know.. the SR20 is one the best looking little 4 bangers I've seen. MGB would kick *** as a DD, hehe.
I do agree though.. Not so sure why it was posted on a site aimted at classic motorsports. Would be about the same as coming here and posting your all-stock and original Z with a large disclaimer about how you hate engine swaps and despise anything not vintage, yadda yadda.
And Hoov,
I think one of the greatest things you can do to older cars is update their technology. Take a great old car like a Z or MGB and update it with the technology we have these days. They come out (if dont right of course) faster, safer and better looking.
I'm an old soul though.. Modern design annoys me. Nothing (to me) has the personality that was so prevelant 30-100 years ago. Modern technology fascinates me though.. We've come a long way with function, if not so much form.
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Thanks for that! Your Fairlady should be rocking the streets soon too!
We can only hope, lol. A year.. Maybe more.
Really though, those mounts kick ***. I want to go RB so damn badly it hurts.. Who knows.. If money makes itself available I may be ordering a set from ya =]
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Ok, I drew up a quick diagram for ya.. I dunno when/if my camera is coming back today.
That is based on using 10/3 wire. The Green wire should be used as the ground, while the white and black wires should be used as the hot leads. Its also good practice to mark the white wire with black or red tape at both ends to signify its being used as a hot lead. In 115v the white wire is used as a nuetral - so just marking that it is carrying power is helpful.
If you're using one of the little pre-built dealies from Lowes, the middle wire is ground, the other two are positive. Doesnt matter which of the positives goes to which terminal on the compressor.
The little compressor diagram is about as close I could make it to what it actually looks like. You'll see 4 terminals on the left side of it. Two will have wires going to the compressor motor - two will be empty. Your hot wires hook to the empty ones. On the right you'll see a little screw directly on the base of the wiring platform. Theres your ground, =]
If anything I said wasnt clear let me know. I'm not the best at explaining things. I'll try to elaborate further if required.
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Np, I dont have my camera here atm, but it should be by this afternoon. I'll take some pics for ya.
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I think it's a bit too flashy for an old Z.
/Agreed.
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all you need to do is get in ol' Blue and comandeer a tow job around the block
Back when I first got my Z, before I got rid of it for many years, it was down and I was depressed as hell I couldnt drive it. Didnt know what was wrong, etc.. and a friend said "I'll take you for a ride man, c'mon" We went outside, I got in the Z, he got in an 89 Mazda 323, got behind me and pushed me around the neighborhood for like 20 minutes. It was some funny shyte.. but it really did perk me right up.
Good your sticking with it man very good. I wish ya the best of luck.
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I used an air chisel to cut out my tray and will be welding in new material. Rust was worse than i thought..
I'll be hitting the whole area with Epoxy primer when Im done as well.
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That looks great man. Excellent work.
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How much for the headlight buckets?
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Bruce beat the **** outa Chuckles on the set of that movie they did together.
Go go gadget owned.
Bruce > Chuckles.
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I cant answer with any direct certainty but I've seen one crank bolt come off in my lifetime and what a site that was. It came off a 302 a friend had dropped into his 67 Mustang. It popped off at about 5k RPM and the pulley came off with it.
Thankfully no one was killed - but god damn.. The carnage was extensive.
The culprit? The bolt was improperly tightened. Its possible your bolt was improperly tightened at some point and when put back on originally, was somehow or another improperly put on again.. and thus failed.
Other possible options: (these are just hypothetical.. others more knowledgeable than myself would confirm their validity or point at me whisper "moron").
1. Over tightened? Is it possible this could stress the threads on the bolt or shaft, there-by loosening the bolt enough so that it doest really tighten down like it should.
2. The balancer is bad. On 302's the balancer is a two part design that can fail over time, causing the balancer to slip a little. Throws the balance off and makes it one bitch bastard of a job to time the engine, heh. I've not taken a look at the l28et's crank pulley, so I dont know if its designed that way or not. If it was bad its possible (maybe, heh) that added vibration worked the bolt loose over time?
3. Cross threaded in some way?
4. Really weird bad luck?
Sorry I cant be more exact.. thats just what comes to mind. I'm sure those far more knowledgable than myself can shed some more light on your problem.
recipie of life's little last luxuries turned slightly excessive,If my last breath is taken in the presence of excess eden-esque existence, consider this life well lived.
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you guys would be surprised how many people try and sell z's like that at this kind of price
No kidding. About a year ago, before I got my Z back a friend of mine called me and said his neighbor had a Z he was selling. Complete car, minus the entire drive train, rear end and all. I asked him to take a look for me (he had moved recently and was about 130 miles away) and told him what to look for and get as much info as he could about the car and a price. I figured, hell, if its reasonable maybe I'll try to pick it up!
Well, he calls back, gives me the info. 76 280z. Battery tray looks good. Pans and floor rails are toast. Rear hatch landing is showing signs but doesnt look like it needs to be replaced. paint appears to be original and in very bad shape. One door is bent to hell and wont close, dash is completely trashed, seats are bleh, rest of the interior is decent, but showing its age. Suspension seemed ok, glass was good. No title. Who knows how many hands it had passed through. All-in-all a semi decent car to buy as a shell to restore - which is what I had in mind. Not ideal. If the price is right (I was thinking 500-700$) I might pick it up.
Asking price? 2000$! Yay! The guy said the Z was so rare the shell was actually worth 5-6k (haha) but he needed to get rid of it ASAP.
I also deal with DSM's on occasion 'cause a friend of mine has some bizarre love affair with em (dont get me wrong.. good cars, but I dont see the basis for an obsession..) and the prices people ask for them and their parts are completely rediculous. 90-93 Bone stock, mediocre shape 160k AWD Turbo cars and poeple are asking close to 5k for some of em.
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Nice, 1100$, one picture and not one lick of a description about the integrity of the parts of the car we cant see. Strange, I dont see it selling.
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Wow, thats fantastic. Bravo, good speech, well thought out ideals, excellent idea. Very articulate.
Welp, since I'm a white devil and not fit to live because I spend all my waking hours doing everything I possibly can to kill everyone else who isnt white, I'm gonna heartily agree with Kambaboobo Kalalashala or whatever.
In an attempt to set an example I will go exterminate myself.
*sigh*
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I'm slowly stripping my engine bay to bare to metal. The paint was well atrophied and failing fast, so I didnt think it safe to just knock it down and paint over.. I also dont know paints ability to absorb oils and the like over time.. So, bare metal it is.
I've been using aircraft stripper (Cheaper stuff you can get from Advanced/Pep Boys/Whatever) then going back over it with scrapers, the wiping it off with a rag, then attacking it with a wire wheel. Its slow going but I'm almost done and *should* finish today.
Here are my questions:
1. On the firewall only, the fenders dont seem to have it, is a light grey coating on the metal itself. The stripper wont touch it. My wire wheel wont do much to it either. It takes a *alot* if pressure to get the wheel to bite through it. The coating is incredibly think but tough as nails. I tried to take a picture but my camera sucks and wont really pick it up. So.. What is this stuff and what will it hurt if I dont take it all off? Will an epoxy primer adhere to it? I'm taking a guess that its some kind of etching primer maybe? I'm gonna beat the hell out of it regardless. I did a search and found Racer X's engine bay stripping method. I'm just curious as to the how this coating will effect the paint job if I cant get it all off.
2. Any suggestions on getting in to those extremely hard to reach areas? Like under the battery tray, the corners around the front brace, etc? Some of it I can do by hand, but alot of it I cant. The battery tray is the part I'm most worried about. It has some rust on it thats damn close to being bad enough to start pitting the metal.
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For that reason I agree with Tim. Enforce the laws that are there, leave the hobbyists alone and crack down on people trying to skirt the law. And if you don't like the law then the appropriate response is to try to change it.
This is my take on the situation. Like I said, if I could be shown CONCRETE PROOF that occasionally spraying is causing real damage - then I wouldnt be happy about it, but I'd set the gun down and just get over it.
I totally agree about backyard shops and the like.. They should be dealt with, but the hobbyists out there that paints one car a year, for himself or for a close friend should be left the hell alone.
It's been a while .. the GTO
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
So so nice.
Curious.. About how much time do you think you have (man hours.. Well, woman hours, lol) just converting the body? Not counting interior work, wiring, or making it run.