datz280

I have done the online schools. I can't remember the websites or who put them on. As I recall there are only a few that are aproved. I liked them because All you needed to do was pass a chapter test from the DMV book. I went to the DMV picked up a book and took all the tests open note style. I have not done the classes so I can not compare.

I just did this swap. If you buy the complete kit from summit all you need will be provided (parts 53-56). I can not tell what the one part you referenced is. But I did not need anything extra. I did not have a hard time removing the spindle pin. I used a large bolt with the same diameter and lightly tapped with a mallet. It was slow going but the did come out. I also soaked with penetrating oil overnight. I did have a very hard time with the mettle sleeves. I cut a slit in each one but was unable to remove them. I resorted to having a shop press them out. One thing others do that I did not was to have a shop drill a hole to insert a Zirk fitting so that you can lube the bushings in the future. When you install the bushings be sure to freeze them overnight. When I did it it was hot out and the last two had warmed up. I would suggest bringing them outside two at a time. Also while you have all the parts off put a coat of paint on them. Follow the outline on Blues Tech Tips from AtlanticZ as well as the microfiche. Also be sure to bag everything. I thought this would take me a long three day weekend. But ended up being 4-5 weekends working for half days. By the time I returned I was glad I had labeled freezer bags. I installed the urethane bushings, Tokico’s, and Arizona Z Car springs. The rear is much stiffer, the front still bounces like a trampoline.

Thanks guys. When I do the swap I will look at running the MSnS in a spot where it will not raise susspisions. Perhaps in the stock computer location, if it will fit. Also, unfortunatly from what I understand the exemption from smog testing in california has been stopped at 75. "Unjust laws exist: shall we be content to obey them, or shall we endeavor to amend them, and obey them until we have succeeded, or shall we transgress them at once?" I vote for transgression at once!!!

I have a 77 and live in clifornia. I am thinking of swapping in a l28et over the summer. I dont think smog certificating and going to a referee will be to hard (famous last words). I am also thinking of using a MegaSquirt n Spark system for the FI and spark. i searched but could not find a deffinate answer. Will I using an aftermarket system like MSnS cause me to fail Cali. Smog?

Two of my favorite zcar colors are the original 920 gold and 918 orange. I do like some of the metallic blues; otherwise I prefer the solid bold colors. One color I have noticed lately is on the Nissan Extera and is a solid burnt orange.

I went to smog my 77 280z today and failed. All emissions were ok but I failed due to my EGR not receiving vacuum from the Back Pressure Transducer. When I looked at the BPT the little stainless line that runs from its bottom to the exhaust manifold is completely sheared off, causing my EGR to not receive any vacuum. I removed the BPT and am now trying to remove the stainless steel line. Does anyone know how to remove this line? I turn a nut that attaches it to the exhaust manifold but after a point it just spins. I would like to remove this line to clean it and weld it back to the BPT. If this does not work does anyone know where I could find a replacement BPT and stainless tubing to fix the issue?

I am going to start “collecting†parts for a suspension re-build this coming July. I am looking at Tokico shocks (HP or Illumina) with either Arizona Z Car (180f 200r) or Top End Performance springs ( 182f 205r). This will be for a back road weekend driver. I have not seen any positive feedback about TEP. Mainly customer service and shipping times. BUT the TEP springs are selling for 149 while the AZC springs are 198. Saving $49 is appealing to me as I’m on a budget. Or am I to cheap and should spend the extra 50 and support a reputable site. Mike

Thank you both for your offers. I was able to finally remove the old broken TVV. I also ordered the part from NAPA before seeing your posts. I will post to let you know how it goes with the repair. Mike

I have a broken Thermal vacuum valve from my 1977 280. Calling the local auto parts and no one caries or can order the part. Does anyone know of a different year Nissan that has a tvv that will work? I need this part to get vacuum to the BPT and EGR to pass smog in California. I was thinking that if I can not find the valve would it be possible to T off of another vacuum line to get vacuum to the EGR. I only need to get the EGR working to pass smog and I do not think a smog station will look to see where the EGR is getting vacuum from, only that it is. Thanks, Mike EDIT: It appears that the Thermo Vacuum Valve is also called a Ported Vacuum Switch. Napa auto parts has two different styles for the 77. This is the one I think I need. http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=CRB&PartNumber=229056&Description=Ported+Vacuum+Switch its temp range is 112-118.

just saw this in another post. checking injector function "You can test if the injectors are working but just running a 9v current through them. you should be able to hear a clicking noise everyttime you run current through them" AK-Z.

I have this same problem on my 77 280. It sounds as if it is only in the #5 and/or#6 cyl. I have done a valve adj and it helped a little. Also ran some seafoam through the intake manifold. Again this helped but did not solve the under 3K miss rough idle. I have cleaned and checked the injector connections and spark plugs. How would someone clean injectors at home? Remove and use a cleaning solution? If it is a sticking valve how would someone fix a stuck valve if this is the case? Remove head and clean? I think I saw a link earlier that was written on how to clean valves and guides without removing the head, it involved inserting cord into the cylinder and tapping on the valve on top when loose. Ill search for it and post the link in this thread. Also if it helps i checked for a vacume leak, my guage read 13 steady. I remember on anoter site that this is an indication of a stuck valve.

After some more searching the only thing I could find was on Zcar.com it seems that the na z31 swaps directly into the na 280 and the turbo z31 swaps directly into the turbo 280. can anyone confirm this. Mike

Does anyone know how to identify the impedance and flow of early Datsun/Nissan injectors. I found one thread after searching for a while http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=81750&highlight=nippon but it did not help much. At the local pick and pull there is an early maxima (I6 n47 head) and an 88 maxima marked 200sx se v6 on rear (vg30de?). The first has green injectors, the second yellow. Will these fit a 77 280z. Also I could not serch and find the sizes of the throttle bodies. Will either work? Mike

I’m fairly new to dasuns as well. I just posted above you. I would look at what you want/need. How much do you have to spend? It sounds like a full interior is needed: carpet kit, seats, door panels, and headliner. Also paint. How much rust is there? Rust repair can get expensive/old quick. Also do a compression test and see if all the cylinders are close to being the same (I don’t know what they should be). Take it to a shop and have them put it on a lift and get a good look underneath as well. You cant go to wrong for $2,000 though.

Well I just bought a 77 280z (my first). Very little rust, some on lip of rear hatch, little on R front hood body, no rust on undercarriage, floor pans, or rails. New chrome rims. Price was right and I have had an unhealthy infatuation with Datsuns for years. It now sits proudly in my driveway for all to see The car is rough on the inside and needs seats, dash-cap, seals, and has a dull single stage paint job done years ago. Original color is yellow and re-spray was yellow. The suspension is old and probably original to the car. My question: There is considerable oil leakage through either the head gasket or valve cover gasket. I am planning on removing the head and replacing the head, intake, exhaust, and valve cover gaskets. Searching older post shows many people do not like FelPro. What is a decent alternative to FelPro to use as a replacement. I do not have the money for a metal gasket? Also several post reveal that it is a good idea to replace the head studs. Is there a stud kit other than the ARP kit? Some have suggested having the head checked for warpage? Is this necessary and what is an average cost (I don’t want to be taken if I get this done)? What is a good manual that will have the basic procedures for maintenance outlined for me? Specifically how to perform a valve adjustment. If given the steps (and some pictures) I am confident enough to perform most maintenance and upgrades Mike