datz280

Looking for an alternator from a 280zx or 280zxt. Shipping to 94553 Mike Turbodatsun280z@gmail.com

Josh thanks for the info, I will PM you my wife's cell number and you can talk to her about these low prices and how I should just go for it, JK. I am actually really lucky my wife loves the Z as much as I do. In all seriousness thanks for the write-up on the whole assembly and the clutch recommendation Mike

Ok, Good to know. How will the smaller diameter of my old non turbo flywheel affect the operation on the new turbo engine?

I was searching the forums and I think this is the info I needed. I am putting a turbo block into my 77 280. The turbo block came out of an automatic. It looks like I need to get the larger 2+2 or turbo flywheel, clutch, throwout bering. OR? can I use the smaller flywheel off my N/A and old clutch and throwout bering? Will the smaller size work with the turbo block if the whole old assembly is used?

it was cleaned and hot tanked before machining. It is my understanding that the cleaning with soap and water is to get rid of any cutting oil used or shavings left behind.

I have my block back from the machine shop and was reading the How to books. It is recommended to clean the block with a soap and water. My concern is using water to flush the oil galleys and making sure it is all out upon assembly, I don't want my block to rust. I will use WD40 to disperse the water from the block and bores. I guess I am asking for some reassurance that this is what everyone does with their blocks when they receive them from a machine shop. Mike

You should not have problems with tailpipe emissions. But in Calif. you need to pass a visual as well. As I understand the rules anything that alters the air or fuel that was not there stock will cause a person to fail.

I also have a 77 that will need to pass smog. I don't have my swap done yet. When I mount an intercooler I was thinking of keeping the stock J pipe and swapping it in for the smog test. At that point the intercoler is there just for looks.

when I ordered the set I filled out a Ross spec sheet with all of the measurements and asked for a custom set of 6. I told the guy at Summit that 902 was quite a lot and I had recalled a price more in the 600 range. He told me that was the price for a custom set. Thats why I thought if I asked for a stock +1 mm 83 N/A flattop it would be cheaper. I'm still unsure on the forged vs cast issue but the savings would afford me MSnS and some other goodies.

I just got a quote from Summit Racing for a set of forged pistons with pins and rings $902.00!!! I was shocked. After searching the forums it looked like a little over a year ago they were around 600. I am going to call and ask for a quote on a set of stock 83 N/A pistons (no dish) and see what I get. If it is still near the one grand mark I am going to look at ITM cast pistons ($275). This leads me to my question. I understand that forged will take some more detonation, but how much more? If the price of forged is prohibited how much of a cost benefit tradeoff will I have with cast. I plan on in the future running a Holset, intercoller, and ~14psi. Thanks Mike

Thanks guys, I was weary of having my shop straighten the rod. I think I will go with a set of used and pick the best 6 of 12. My shop is going to check, size, balance, and peen them

while disassembling my engine one of the pistons had a skewed wipe pattern. I was told if my rod is bent I could straighten it. Is this advisable on a street driven boosted engine? Arizona Z Car has rods for about $60. If I was to buy a new rod would I need to buy a set? Also if I have custom pistons on stock 280 rods will this be a problem? Thank you, Mike

Ok, I am getting ready to order some forged pistons from ROSS. I have the measurements and was checking what was as measured vs. the Engine Design utility and there are some variances. Currently I am refreshing the engine with a +1mm overbore. I will be putting it into my 280. Future goals are to run a holset, intercooler, increased fuel delivery, and MegaSquirt. I am building a weekend road car. I found my rod lenth 130.530 and the design utility is 130.2 My rods are +.3 My block height is 207.899 and the design utility is 207.85 a difference of +.049 my head CC is 54 instead of 53.6 and my gasket height as measured off the old one is 1.27 not 1.25 I have never ordered pistons before and do not know how much of a variance in my measurements is acceptable. If it helps I can lay out all the measurements I gathered. Also I used a formula to find piston height above the block (I did not measure before disassembly) and found +.10 which seems to be about average. The head and block will be surfaced and have checked out to be sound. Thank you, Mike

head and block will be checked for straightness and both decked to provide a clean new surface. My desire to use a MHG came from recalling that others were staying away from composite gaskets. Re-searching it seems that using the composite brands are ok and they are letting go when you run lean and detonate or from a matting surface that is uneven or warped.

I am building a turbo engine for my 77. I am going to go .040 over and use forged pistons. I am thinking a good cr would be around 8.5 for off boost performance and still enable me to up boost later. I will be using MSnS to tune. While I am tuning it sounds like the advice is to use a stock head gasket (1.25 mm) and if you detonate it is the part that lets go. After I have the tune down I would like to go to a MHG. The 1mm is expensive and hard to find. If I use the 2mm then the CR would drop to around 8.0. What are your opinions on this, or should I just go with a 2mm MHG to start and be careful with the tuning? Mike

I may be wrong but i remember hearing that it was because making biodiesel was oil refining.

I just replaced my steering coupler. What a chore!! Follow the AtlanticZ tech tips. I wanted to let others know that the placement of the small and large sleves were off. If you are doing this check them with the old part. After a half hour of things not working I rotated each sleve one hole and it fit in much better.

I found mine using http://www.car-part.com/ for $400 in SF.

Hello all, I have just brought home an 82 turbo to put in my 77 . I am looking for a shop in the SF bay area to do a rebuild. All I am looking for is a basic rebuild, someone who will check the cylinder bores, flatness of the head and block, and make sure the crank is straight and give it a polish. The only upgrade to the internals I am looking for is shot peening the rods, instilling forged pistons, and balancing the rotating assembly and reassemble with ARP hardware. The only place that would talk to me was Rebello. Labor was going to be in the $800 range. I would need to supply the bearings, pistons, head gasket, etc. My goal is to upgrade the fuel rail and injectors, use the hy35 holset, and mega squirt and spark. In the future I would plan on changing the cam to the Isky some people are using. I have not seen any posts recommending a machine shop (I saw the body shop referral list) Any recommendations on a shop that you know of or have used that is clean and competent in the area would be appreciated. Mike

What do you guys think is this "the best" forum rule or what?

I was reading A quick FI and ignition 280zxt to S30 turbo swap guide and was wondering do you need to use the wiring harnes from the turbo engine or can you use the 280z harnes if it is still in working order? If I need a turbo harnes would the painless kit work?

Thank you all, I think I will go with the HKS and ARP studs.

I have read about the use of the HKS 1mm head gasket and also o-ringing the block. Are these two procedures mutually exclusive? If they are it seems more people are using the HKS.

I didnt think of the steering lock I will see if this solves the problem tomorrow. the castle nut was replaced by a nylon lock nut on the knuckle. Yup the steering lock was what it was. I don't know why I dindn't think of it.

I have been replacing the shocks, springs, and bushings on my 77. I have nearly completed the front and have run into a problem. My steering is stuck and I can not turn my steering wheel or assembly by hand. I have added the bump steer spacers and have not tightened the tie rod. When I try to tighten the nylon nut on top of the tie rod the thread spins with it. Any suggestions on why my steering is binding and how to tighten the nylon tie rod nut would be appreciated.