CarolinaTZ

My Shadow is not hinged but has stainless ribs down the sides that slide between the glass and weatherstrip. Cool design that requires no drilling of the hatch. Don't know if this helps or adds confusion. Joe

Hi, I'm in need of 1 (maybe 2) Rota RB 16x8 in +4 offset....in gold with polished lip. The curb won! Thanks, Joe

Yes, still looking.......PM sent and email too but it came back undeliverable. Thanks

Hi...I'm looking for a driver's side oem rear view mirror - from 74 - 78 - the plastic one - in good condition. I can paypal. Thanks, Joe

Just wondering how this turned out...thanks!

Hi, Looking for a late 260/280 oem radio w/ nice faceplate and connectors intact. Thanks and Merry Christmas

Hi, Can someone with an 11/74 260Z tell me the correct owner's manual for your car... Based on the month/year and part no. on the back cover. It will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Great...thanks!

Thanks guys....this thread has been helpful. I want to order the Vogtland springs for a late 260Z/280Z from Brandcarparts. I assume the photo on their website is incorrect (smaller at one end and progressive wound). http://brandcarparts.com/1975-1978-nissan-datsun-280z-vogtland-lowering-springs-kit-1-25-drop.html The picture on this ebay listing looks correct (no taper and linear wound). http://www.ebay.com/itm/VOGTLAND-GERMAN-LOWERING-SPRINGS-fits-NISSAN-DATSUN-260Z-280Z-1975-to-77-1978-/400786161518?fits=Make%3ADatsun%7CModel%3A260Z&hash=item5d50b77f6e:g:-uQAAOSwDN1UNiMy&vxp=mtr Are these the ones Brandcarparts send even though their web picture is different? Can any of you 280Z Vogtland spring owners confirm? Also, I plan to buy struts.....would Tokico Illuminas be worth the added cost as opposed to HPs?

Yes, pretty clear. I found the answer and shared it. Not uppity. Just the facts.

Read my first post....I didn't say the timing indicator is missing. It's there, where it was factory installed. I said I doubt the factory made a mistake but, I was spit-balling because it was a highly transitional time for the S30. Anyway, I got my answer. A friend of mine was a Datsun tech in the 70s and later a Nissan master tech. He said the dealer installed AC kit came with a 2-row pulley to replace the non-AC 2-row pulley, which had a narrower groove since it only drove the air pump. Do you see where this is going? The kit supplied pulley (the one I have) was the same as the factory AC pulley, meaning the timing mark would now be on the right side of the motor. That also meant the timing indicator needed to be swapped to the right side as well. He said these installs were hard to hack, but the $5/hour installers would sometimes leave off the final step of moving the timing indicator to the other side since a timing check was not a part of the AC install. Satisfies my curiosity! It runs well and I'll leave everything as is and make a new timing mark in the same location as a non-AC pulley when I have the valve cover off....maybe this fall. Or put a timing indicator on the passenger side. Right now I'm just enjoying driving this survivor time machine with it's cold AC, oh, and the sound of the nos Pacesetter vertical tips I just installed....reminds me of the 70s.

Thanks for the input, guys. I don't mind some disassembly to add loctite. I only have 263 red on hand...my concern is that if I ever had to take it apart, it would back the studs out of the diff cover. Do y'all agree? If i'm wrong, I'll just use the red. Otherwise, I'll get some 243 blue or 290 green....I may lean towards the green since it's hold is similar to blue with the added benefit of not having to disassemble.

Yes, I plan to put loctite on them the next time I'm under there. After being in so many that clunked, I was convinced they all did it without the upper style mount. That would be a design flaw. But that's not the case. As long as everything is tight, the design works fine on a stock powered car. I'm just excited I don't have to alter the stock diff setup on my 260Z that I want to keep original. As far as the RT setup...I'm not saying it's not an improvement....it is. I'm using one on my 72 turbo car w/ 3.90 clsd.

was simply loose nuts where the diff attaches to the mustache bar. My 260Z has 63,000 miles and had a horrible clunk unless I synchronized the throttle/clutch/shifter with surgical timing. I did searches and most of the topics pointed to the so-called "flawed" design of the diff setup on the S30. I was convinced I needed to install the RT front diff mount. I started with a floor jack under the nose of the diff....I expected to see a lot of lift and a deteriorated front mount. The front of the diff lifted probably 1/4" before it started to lift the car and the bushing mount looked new. To my surprise, when I reluctantly crawled under the car with a torque wrench to hit all the fasteners around the diff/suspension, there was some loose hardware.....and this car has not been driven hard. I almost forgot about it 'til the next time I drove the car. Wow! The clunk was gone! Yeah, I can feel the normal backlash but, instead of clunking it is quietly absorbed by the "springy" metal parts and bushings. I'm pretty sure the diff was rotating and the studs were wracking in the mustache bar holes. Checking for loose fasteners should be the first thing to do....and some of the message threads said to do that first. But overwhelmingly the threads immediately addressed the front mount issue......and the fact that I convinced myself a low mileage car would not have any loose hardware.....not true. If you have a clunk, check your fasteners.....you may be pleasantly surprised.

That sounds like a plan, beermanpete. I'll do that when I have the valve cover off. It runs fairly well.....I think most of my drivability issues are coming from my Weber DGVs. I have a set of sealed shaft bearings I plan to install when I rebuild the carbs....and then hopefully can get "all" dialed in. Thanks guys.