Kennymonster

Got the 155 main / 170 air combo in today, took care of the transition problem for high load @ 3rd / 4th gear The smaller air corrector seems to have done the trick, mains kick in lot earlier and the 'lean spike' doesn't go past 12, at WOT it's at 11.2 to 11.3 under 4th gear pull to 6000.

^Aghhh I noticed that occasionally, where the top of the carbs would be glistening slightly (I'm assuming from the gasoline). How does one 'block off' the chokes? Take the choke hat off and just put a fat nut on there?

He likes it ;p Yeahh about my jetting, I'm still trying couple of different set ups and haven't kept up on here: The 145 main / 190 air set up was ok for colder runs / low gears (1st to 3rd) shifting at redline, but I ran into issues under load with the transition leaning out. I went to 150 / 180, transition was lot happier and low gear AFR was around 11.5. The real test is 4th gear pull from 2.5k and up in my opinion, on a flat surface, to simulate a dyno run in 1:1 ratio. At 150 / 170, transition is just about right where it should be without any lean spikes, but 4th gear pull is right at 12 AFR (evening run) I have 155 mains on the way, I think the 155 main / 170 air will be right on the money at 11.5 ish in 4th with early main transition, with give or take little bit on either side. *Mildsquare, I tried 160 mains for the hell of it and it kept me in 10's and sometimes 9's in offboost setting with 62.5 pilots, it ran ok but it's filthy rich. Def need some sort of wideband/measurement for this game, don't risk it!

Sure, I can do that. Waiting on front wheel spacers to arrive, so probably will mess with the front cambers pretty soon.

My buddy that helped me put all this together got it at an industrial metal supply place, as far as I know they're a pretty common at any decent metal/hardware places.

Sorry for the late reply on the review guys, I guess better late than never. Basically ended up doing exactly what I had hoped/planned, used stock hats / tokico illuminas / Arizona Z springs (stock diameter). Looking at the stock ebay images, I think some people were concerned about not having enough adjustment space for the camber. This shouldn't be an issue, as you can see on the underside, you can move the plate to different bolt positions, and use the top side slit for finer adjustment. The only issue is.. the pillow bearing slot was too large, at least for my set up. I forgot the exact measurement on it but it's close to a 1/2" diameter. The strut nut / bearing that came with fits the camber plate fine, but they were also too large to fit my strut top thread (tried this on my buddy's T3 kit as well, same result) I ended up using a spacer to make sure the strut fits nice and snug to the bearing, and ended up reusing the existing nut to secure. Also ground out the flared lip on the stock hat, so it sits flush to the camber plate. Fit just fine: Lower the car about 1.5 inch without cutting up the car, got to keep my strut braces front and rear, pretty happy with the results. Not to mention having some camber adjustment abilities now.

^Will do, I want to get them in before Zcon which is just in couple weeks, I'll post a before/after ride height. Not looking for any camber adjustment on mine.

Just ordered couple sets, this is perfect for me as I'm looking to lower it another inch or two, without affecting suspension geometry. Currently on Tokico Illuminas/arizona racing springs.

I'm using stock mikuni needle/seat set up but not sure about the webers. That jetting is almost identical to my setup so something else is going on, does the power cut out immediately/misfire when the AFR spikes? Or does it gradually go up with the powerband? What psi is that holley pump rated, flow/psi are two different issues. If it's a sudden event make sure the carbs are sealed/holding the air pressure, I had a similar issue when the jet chamber cover wasn't sealing tight (due to a stripped bolt), you'd probably see gasoline around that though. Got mine dialed in today pretty much, the 145 mains landed me mid 11's as expected, 190 air still, 62.5 pilots. I also regapped my NGK 7's from .040 to .035 and it solved the transition lean/misfire I was having. As far as I know I'm golden.. still have a slight gasoline leak on #1 carb though, not a lot but it glistens, looks like it's coming from the starter/rotating unit but not sure. Keep us posted.

What's the current jetting specs? IMO 3 to 5 psi shouldn't spike anything to 19+afr unless you're really far off on jetting, I'm suspecting fuel starvation of some sort? Didn't really audit your specs but how's your fuel pump + regulator set up? (Hopefully boost referenced regulator with 1:1 rising per psi) I think the biggest challenge I had to address on this whole thing; 1. keeping the float bowls full, 2. keeping the carbs properly sealed under pressure

Just stupid and not being attentive on my part - I've been staring at the wideband/rev limiter too long (located on the right side of the steering), and the boost gauge sits on the left. What was funny was it still held about 13 afr for a while at 16+ lbs with the efi pump + mallory 3 port regulator, felt like a million bucks, finally glanced to my left on one of the runs and the boost gauge was pegged ;p

Nice to see another owner venturing down this path.. thread subscribed. I've been working 'quietly' on my setup as well, don't want to thread jack so I'll keep it short for now. Running the dreaded cartech set up with 44 Mikunis (hopefully Steve won't get overly excited seeing this ), as per Tony's advice I was moments away from cutting out an aluminum panel to alter the airflow via modulator rings, but the leaning issue I had was actually attributed to boost spikes in the wastegate which has been addressed. At just a hair fatter than my NA jettings, currently on 150 main / 190 air / 62.5 pilots, I'm holding steady 11 AFR in 4th. I'll actually need to drop down to 145 main so I can see something closer to 11.5 ~ 12 AFR. Wastegate is set at 9 lb, current status is pretty close to being 'done' as far as tuning goes, I'll post a comprehensive setup info thread soon enough, 'ts definitely been a learning experience.

^Can't get a hold of you for some reason.... anyone else?

I have a '72 240z, and I'm looking for vinyl/leather trim that goes over the entire rear shock towers. Both sides, doesn't have to be in perfect condition but acceptable to reuse. PM preferred.

Local deal PENDING

Looking to restore back to a stock set up, need black leather seats in decent condition, no shipping involved for obvious reasons. I have a set of Bomz reclining racing seats with 4 pt harness up for trade, pics and info below: I'm located in San Diego, email khs84@earthlink.net http://eautotuning.com/bomz-racing-seat-black-blue.aspx

Here are the updates for those who search similar problems in the future. Got the Z back today, here's the culprit and final verdict. Lack of spark issue: the MSD box was indeed shorted out, along with the voltage regulator on the alternator (280z type.) Apparently the current set up had an internal regulator inside the alternator AND an external regulator somewhere along the harness as well. One of them is now bypassed. What a pain in the ass, it runs good now though.

Update: I left the negative terminal unhooked overnight on my new battery (mainly because the coil gets superheated), after failing to find the culprit yesterday. Today I hook it back up, the battery is almost near dead. I've ran out of time officially since the week's started, I'm now looking into getting it towed to my knowledgeable z mechanic. I will update when the situation is resolved, thanks for all the feedback guys.

Bear with me guys, just got a s30 after owning a z32 for several years. I got very familiar with the VG platform, but have never worked on a carburetor vehicle before. Quick summary: - Ran fine as of 2 weeks ago, just had carbs tuned by a mechanic. - It sat for a week, few days ago I drove it around the block a few times to get used to the 6 puck clutch. I noticed a major stumbling/hesitation under load. - Yesterday, I had planned to get the timing checked and carbs retuned to address the stumbling hesitation, couldn't get the motor to start. Realized the battery had gone dead. Flooded it in the process of trying to get it going so I can limp to the shop, didn't happen. - Put in a new battery(25-DL), it cranks fine, now it won't spark. Another look see and saw that the ignition coil has been leaking oil.... must've been for few days. It was overly hot to touch. The vehicle is a 240z with L28 and MSD ignition system. Ok.. so I replaced the coil (with a non MSD brand if that matters), cleaned the plugs. Nothing. Distributor spins, rotor is clean, just not getting any spark from the coil. + and - cables on the coil has power, the main cable from coil to distributor has none. I honestly don't understand what could've gone wrong between swapping batteries, but the coil's been leaking for a while maybe that killed the module? I'm not sure where to go at this point since I think I covered the basics, anything more extensive is foreign territory to me. edit: The new ign coil also gets overly hot to touch, can't rest your hand on it for more than a sec. I cleaned all the grounding wires.

Are your rotas in silver or hyper black? They look gorgeous.

^Thank bud. It's been a few days since my first email, hopefully he's still getting to it

Awesome, I hope I can get my hands on a set real soon. I should probably make a new member thread but just picked up a 240 with glassed flares, and sure could use the negative offset!

Do you mean you placed the order recently after the group buy, and were able to get them? KIMCOSMIC@JUNO.COM is the email correct?