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Len

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Posts posted by Len

  1. It sounds like your liening tward an intercooler.You say I can use an intercooler off a Plymonth Conquest or a starion? Hmmm... I didn't know they were interchangable; I just thought a compatable intercooler was a $1,000.00 bill. Something like $130 at a salvage and then piping and mounting brackets for around $200 that can be a possibility. I guess the real question is where would I find someone who could fabracate the piping and hookups?

    Wow I didn't realize just around 9 PSI of boost would add that much HP (40 or so)above original 180hp stock!!This is an eye opener I've got a LT-1 engine I planed to put in an old 240 Z to add 285 HP But just tweaking on this turbo could get some serious hp with not as much hassel for now!

    Thank you for waking me up!

  2. When thumbing thru my motorsport parts book. I always end up in preformance section. I have a 1983 280 ZX turbo no mods I was thinking to improve preformance. Buying;

    adjustable boost control kit #10-2136 for $94.95

    they say my original boost gauge isn't to accurate so I would need to buy a Autometer Boost Gauge #50-5258 for $57.95 and mount for $24.95

    I don't want to increase the boost so must to need a big buck intercooler. So maybe going up to 9 lbs. boost which I think would mean I would need to buy a Adjustable pop-off valve with yellow spring 6-12 psi #10-2132 for $99.95

    Would I increase my preformance very much this way? without stressing out my engine to much (daily driver)? Am I overlooking anything else I might need? What do you guys think about this idea?

  3. I bought a set of KYB Shocks for my 1983 280ZXT the front cost $$96.55 for the front pair.They had five adjustments; used a little screwdriver thingy to change adjustments (called "Select-a-ride"). The rear are not adjustable called "Gas-a-just" cost $122.87 pair. Installed they ride pretty firm I usally ride on softest setting. They are great on corners. I bought them at a parts house called Kerr Automotive Imports In OKC (you may have one in Texas) I could not find any adjustable shocks on the internet at a reasonable price.

    Hope this helps

    Len

  4. Possibly a good argument if ticketed in California and possibly also in Hawaii.

    First be sure and keep a straight face;

    Tell the judge at that particular time when you traveled thru the red light; you were having an out of body experience discussing the problems of our overburdened legal sysum(that was to stroke the judge). Then show the judge from the photo that if you look real closely you will make out hanging judge parker(who by the way wanted to say Hi and to thank you; your honor for all the good work you have done over the years!).

    Therefore since I was talking to Hanging Judge Parker who died over 80 years ago. There is just no way that I could have been existing at that intersection at the time said picture was taken. Further in the past alot of my outer body experiences do show up on photos at intersections. But If anybody ever tried to make contact with my car they would find they would travel right thru me with no damage....Therefore there was not any chance of collision or damage if anyone hit me during said experience. So I am no threat to traffic or society!......Hmmm!

    ( I'm sorry guys I just had a serious knee operation and this codene is messing with me!)

    P.S please don't be offended with beginning statement concerning Calif. or Hawaii. It is only that We don't have them thar photo machines here in OK. We don't even have a front licence...I did notice a guy at one intersection with cardboard and a felt pen perhaps he is tracing all the cars that run the red lights to give to police at a later date. Or maybe He just had a work for food sign.

  5. Guys foam insulation for cars or anything for that matter is OK as long as its stationary. When you start driving it around. The chance that you may stress it (like for use to add for stiffness)may cause it to sooner or later break up. I have heard more than once in my young 46 years. Don't put foam in cars!!!!!!Besides causing leaks when (notice I say when)it breaks up you will discover rattles where you never had any before!

    Just my opinion.

    Len

  6. I remember reading on a website that over the years the oil in the clutch fan eventually leaks out or gets old (on 83 like 18 years old!). They mentioned that you could remove the clutch, unbolt the halves clean it out and reinstall with 90wt. oil. That might be an option for you. Although the fan on a Z does make alot of noise. I eventually took off my fan on my 83 280zxt and installed an electric for about $119. that Quieted the engine down a bit, along with increasing the hp a bit!

  7. Question;

    I finally fired up my 78 280Z. It had been sitting for about 5 years. After getting out all the gremlins over the past week, there is one still lurking somewhere. When I take her for a test drive she runs fine (misses a bit at idle I believe due to injectors cleaning themselves out). But when I go over 4000 rpm she just quits (a backfire sometimes) just dies until I go back down to around 3500rpm. I exchanged two throttle control boxes thinking that might be it.

    No luck, same thing. I even replaced coil. No luck.

    Any ideas; do you think it could be my air flow meter?

  8. Well guys mystery solved it was the Air Flow Meter.... I switched with another one. The car runs kinda ratty but it seems to have a top end without cutting out. I guess I need to dial in the Air flow meter to get the quirks out.

    Thanks for the ideas... The timing was 10 degrees before tdc so it checked out OK.

  9. Tim

    I did replace the coil with another one of one of my junkers. It still does the same thing (I hope both coils aren't bad). Aaaaa to be rich and have money to buy new parts so I would know for sure if the part I'm replacing isn't also bad.....I wondering if it could be that electronic ignition little black box by passinger side by fuze box. In the meantime I'm going to buy a fuel press gauge and timing light....

  10. New wires and plugs. "idle valve" if you mean "throttle valve switch" I changed that twice from switches off of my junkers out back (but even those two may be bad?). Injectors I wouldn't think all of them would just cut out together all at once at 4000rpm. Timing hmmm.. I don't have a timing light but I guess I need to get one but once again the car runs real strong up to 4000 then its like someone turns off the ingnition at 4000 then turns it back on at 3500.

    When I first started breathing life into this 280 last week I drained gas from tank, added new gas, turned on just the pump to flush new gas into lines up to fuel rail then put on new filter. I then thought the fuel pump wasen't pumping as strong so I replaced it with another one off a junker. I guess I need to buy a fuel pressure gauge to know for sure I'm getting my 36lbs. worth...I also filled up with about 15 gallons of fuel. Maybe I may have crack in fuel pickup inside tank or in hoses to pump. But I wouldn't think the cutting out would be so consistent if that were the case.

  11. randy77zt when you say oem harness you mean the original wiring harness that came with the car? and what you are doing is omitting all the sensors not needed (like the fuel tank, exaust etc.)Now I understand about "optispark" that's the distributor behind the waterpump at front of engine. Are you working with a 96 ecm also? are you keeping your "optispark" distributor? I know what you mean about the sensors I've got two armloads of wiring! What is sds electronic fuel injection? I know this is just one step; talking to street and preformance they mentioned when I have planned on putting Lt-1 in the El Camino I would have problems with the air cond compressor (lower pass side) fitting because of X member. In the Z I figure I will also have problems fit wise. At least I won't neet that Cat converter on drivers side right after header. I can possibly buy hugger headers so Lt-1 will fit easier. along with figuring out the mods on the pulleys on serpentine belt that you mentioned.

  12. DavyZ I already bought the car 2 weeks ago, I registered it with the DMV 2 weeks ago. Last week when I received my title back from the DMV (with the black tag)& saw 1972 240Z on the title; that was when I called the guy I bought it off of and he said It went thru the auto auction 5 years ago when he bought it. I really have no other options except to do what I'm doing. I even talked with a police friend. He said you can't find the real owner if there is one without correct serial #. If it was a nice car; then things would be alot different but he saw the Z (called it a pile of junk which kinda offended me and my loyalty to any z)and said its not worth the effort. Who knows someone may have owned both cars at one time and one was wreaked and he swaped parts to make one good car (like I did on my 280ZXT) and changed serial # so he didn't have to pay as much to tag it each year. Who knows

  13. BLKMGK Who are the folks that are making the Lt-1 Edit? If It needs a wiring harness then I can bite the bullet on the cost of a harness if it will solve my problem and increase the extra power strangled by the smog devices. What is "Opti-spark" and what happened with your car to cost you $450 from GM? Also I remember reading about your trials and tribulations concerning headers. What brand did you finally come up with that will work for my situation?

  14. DavyZ Yes I do feel good about this. I hear what your saying but you should see the car. The engine has been canibalized. It is worth only or less than the amount I paid which is about $400 Maybe about 15 years ago it may have been worth something, but time has taken its toll if it had been stolen years ago and if the guy could see what his car turned out to be I feel he would agree! Also how would you find the original owner without the original serial number? Remember even the Department of motor vechicles don't have a clue!

  15. I had the 280/240 registered in my name 2 weeks ago when I purchased it. That's what surprised me when I saw the title; I talked with the man I bought it from. He said he bought it at the auto auction 5 years ago & thought at first he bought a 240z. But after examining it closely found it was a 280 (he has his dealers licence and about 40 Z cars, I bought three). Everything went fine for me at the tag office. With regards to the ECM. A while back when I first bought the LT-1. I at first planned on installing it in a 78 El Camino (until I saw the light!). I called around to Street & Performance out of Mena Arkansas, to Mark Campbell. If I remember right he pretty much said that my computer wouldn't work (off the 96 firebird #16214399/16230131 86BSDSK152631090 ) with their wiring harness. My ECM wouldn't allow me to put in their chip they burn to put into the ECM. I needed a ECM out of a earlier car 92 or 93 vette (#16159278) or a 94/95 camaro(#16188051). The other option was to trace out all the wiring using the service manual. So I purchased the service manual thinking I would save around $450 for wiring harness and $150 for a computer chip along with buying another ECM from an older car for $150. THAT WAS FOR THE 78 EL CAMINO. NOW with the older 240 not requiring smog control, hopefully my prayers are answered! Being able to NOT use all that smog stuff. Except it still sounds like; from you guys that I would still need to buy a wiring harness from painless, is that right? Also would I need to buy a different ECM or can I use my old one?

  16. I have a 96 Lt-1 out of a Firebird with a T-56 tranny. I bought a 78 280Z (now this is where it gets interesting). The 78 280z is regestered as a 1972 240z (it has 240z serial numbers!) All I can think is that years ago maybe it was stolen and serial # changed. Its doesn't run parts stolen off engine etc.I paid $400 for it. My question is since it is regestered as a 72 240z when I install the Lt-1 into it I don't have to bother with all the smog controls on the engine/exaust etc. right? But if I take off all the smog control can I make the Lt-1 run correctly. Or will I have problems making the ECM work?

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