HakosukaJD

Silly me. Problem fixed. I pulled the engine and made a number of wiring repairs (prior to the no spark condition). The repairs were sound. The problem was that I believed because I had rebuilt the wiring surrounding the ignition system using heavier gauge and more modern connectors, I thought it would eliminate the need for a grounding strap from the dizzy to the battery (or grounding plate....using cover plate for mech fuel pump point). Not so much. After reading someone else blog regarding a no-spark condition repaired by a ground strap directly to dizzy, thought I'd give it a try. Car fires right up. Thanks for all the other ideas anyway....more information is always good in TSing future problems bound to occur....

Unfortunately, its not. Haven't had time to try to tear everything down...was hoping for a bit narrowed search from forum help. It will probably end up being a project over Christmas break. Also unfortunately, my transister unit (Ultra) is a Japanese Domestic model, so I have no diagrams or info on how to troubleshoot using a voltmeter....

All, Been through the search...maybe I'm not covering the right string or maybe I just need more clarification... Took the engine out to get it cleaned up and to clean up the wiring a bit. I was extremely careful about marking all leads and terminals. When I put it back together, all the electrical works fine....with the sole exception of the ignition system (most important part...figures) I'm getting a no spark condition. Here's the rundown.... L28 running an Ultra Transistor Ignition Module, stock dizzy (didn't take it off the block when I pulled the engine.), MB2 Coil. No spark condition tested with a timing light, and then plug pulled and touched to ground while cranking. I get nothin. At first glance, the coil appears to be fine (.7 Ohms across the primary, 5kOhms across the Secondary) When I turn the key to the "on" position, I'm only getting 9V at the + Coil Terminal (to battery ground), and I'm getting .5V to the - coil terminal to ground. When I remove the power lead from the coil, it reads 12.X (whatever battery is reading at the time). Should I be seeing this drop? Am I "leaking" voltage somewhere? I haven't found any bad/shorted/melted/overheated wiring traced back to the Transistor module and/or the switched power solenoid. Anything additional or in particular I should be looking at or measuring?

Never use that stuff....just too dangerous. When I was administering a lab course at a local community college, we would show a video during the shop safety introduction (not sure where it came from) of a tire shop mechanic using a tire machine to remove a fix-a-flat tire without venting it first (presumably to save time). It almost killed him. The propellant in those cans (as is the case with most aerosols) is quite explosive.... Fix-a-flat, I believe has changed their propellent to a non-explosive one (although the internal pressure of the cans are still pretty high). Not sure of what other brands to trust. I would rather avoid it altogether....

Did you guys have any issues with CARB when you went to register your cars? I initially received my registration....was driving to and from work for a couple months. Then they came back and wanted me to go to one of the big CARB stations (FRESNO maybe?) to have it tested and stickered. Did they do this to you?

LOL...Been there....I had the same problem on the streets in Enoshima (Japanese beach village) in Aug. Wife was none too happy being in a car with no A/C, in 95+ degree weather, ugly humidity, no air movement as we were stuck in traffic....with the heat on high to keep the car from overheating......

I'd say its worth it merely for the accomplishment of doing something... I would probably go with the dash heater idea....except I would hard wire it with a switch/relay. The computer fan idea isn't bad either and wouldn't require a relay for hardwiring safely. I know I have a bunch of 80's, but I probably have a few 120mil comp fans in a box somewhere if you want them....

Further amplification... The comb switch feed handling the turn signal is only about 130mV. Should this be a full 12V, 10V, what? Or is the voltage through the turn signal switch only a signal voltage? EDIT: Obviously the switch is knackered. When I short the feed to the left rear, right rear signal lines, they operate just fine. Now I need to figure out how to take this switch apart.....

At my wits end. The car is a '71 Skyline (very close to the S30Z, although the combination is only turn signals and high beam flash) Lights and permanent high beams are on a separate stalk. Symptoms are thus..... Hazards are fine in all cases. Right turn signal - works fine up front, but no flashing from the rear. If I'm stepping on the brake peddle, activating the turn signal will cause the brake light to go completely out (no flashing...just out). Voltage measurements at the connectors gives me an alternating 0V to 12V. Tried to measure wire resistance with the car off as I move the switch to different positions and it keeps saying out of range. Left Turn signal - the relay will engage initially and irregularly activate about three times before it stops. Turn signal indicator in the dash won't light....front AND rear signals don't work. Activating the switch makes the brake light go out. Measurements at the connectors give me a voltage alterating between 0V and 100mV. What am I looking for?!

Timing looks to be 12deg at idle, 34 deg at 3k RPM. I finally managed to get my RPM logging working now....had to set it by engine RPM rather than using soundcard output. Ever since I hooked up the ground on the LM-1 to the block ground, the RPMs at idle have come up by about 100. Here's a spot of my LM-1 Datalogging A/F spikes come right as I shift, no surprise there. The really odd one is where the A/F goes to 20:1 right in the middle of a WOT run (misfire?) What do you think?

Anybody know what size pins fit in those holes? Can I use wood dowels? Or do I need to go with steel? Can I buy these pins? I pulled my steering wheel off yesterday and sure enough, no pins.... (but I have the holes where they belong). Just need to know where I can get these things......

The hesitation isn't too bad. The issue is this. I'm getting 9.4 mpg. ...it sucks in and of itself.....but I'm also paying close to 4 bucks a gallon. Do I have a fuel leak? Or is this a result of running at 12.5:1 all the time....?

Running Triple Solex PHH44's, 225air, 175fuel, 50 pumps, and 60pilots (yeah...I've heard....should be between 40-45) on what I believe is a stock L28. but... Very mild stumble when going on the mains and after about 20mins of running (from cold), A/F is hovering right around 14.6. At WOT, its around 12.5 (via Innotech W/B). When its cold, A/F idling is around 11.8-12.4..... Gas mileage sucks. I have 1.5 turns on the idle screws, engine idling at about 900RPM. I don't mind the stumble...it is VERY slight....but the mileage is in the neighborhood of 10mpg.... Will dropping to 45's on the pilots help out here? With mid 14's at idle after it warms up, will it go too lean? Also...anyone have any luck getting the LM-2 RPM kit to work right? I went with a hard wire setup on the main unit, ground the LM-2 to the same place as the main unit and am sensing off the coil with a 50k pot to adjust the input voltage..... can't get a clean signal.... I've asked on the innotech site as well....might get a faster answer here....

I've been up to KEW a few times....it's where I get most of my stuff (that is...the stuff that isn't rebadged american stuff). They have very pretty glass cases with all of this stuff on display....including their "SPL-A" package....7800.00 US bottom end....3.2L with an 85mm throw, forged/balanced rods and pistons all layed out pretty....

I tried the grease trick first....didn't work Puller....didn't work. I finally broke out a sharp chisel, knocked out a portion of the bushing and cleaned it out. Not suggested as it is difficult to not scratch the crank seat and its a pain to make sure you get all the brass chunks out (as they are stuck in their good with grease).