RTz
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Posts posted by RTz
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I'm curious how carbon builds when no gas is near the TB? Just air. Is this due to gases flowing back from the injectors? Doesn't make sense to me.
Not gas. Oil vapor from the PCV=carbon build-up.
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Dang!... may very own 'monument'
Good Job.
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So who makes a proven, reliable intake at a resonable price?
Your third request doesn't fit the first two
There are aftermarket manifold/throttle manufactures that produce proven, reliable intakes... but not cheap. TWM and Electromotive are the first two to come to mind (they may even be the same?).
Lonewolf offers one at a fair price, but I don't know how PROVEN it is. Maybe do a search?
I'm in the process of building a couple that I expect to work well, but they will NOT be cheap.
There are others. None that meet all three of your requirements (that I'm aware of). If you find me mistaken, please post your findings.
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The problem I've run into is finding a system readily compatible with a MoTec ECU.
Sounds like you already have a Motec box in hand?
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Mr Insanity,
Food for thought...
A coil is only as good as its controller. In this case its the EDIS module itself.
A coil has many attributes. For example, primary current, saturation rate, dicharge rate, voltage, current, etc, etc.
I have every reason to believe Ford factored their coil pack into the design of the module. I expect it to be fairly well optimized for THAT coil pack.
People I trust tell me that one of the most difficult things in designing a module is factoring in the dwell. Dwell can easily be calculated at a steady rpm. What happens when the engine is accelerated or decelerated? The module cannot go back in time and ‘start over’. There are several strategies to deal with this. Some I understand. Some I don’t.
What happens when you install a different coil pack on EDIS? If its qualities are different, particularly charge/discharge rate, you could easily find yourself a step back.... and not even know it.
Without proper test equipment and experience its a crap shoot.
**However**
As I mentioned previously, I used a Dodge coil pack once. One of the goals of the project was to see just HOW forgiving EDIS could be. I deliberately did the following to my 510...
Along with the Dodge coil, I installed an EDIS6 VR sensor on an EDIS4 system, with custom cut teeth that are ENTIRELY different then any factory teeth (see below), and not one trace of shielding!
Outwardly, the system ran fine. It was a noticeable improvement over the factory electronic ignition, both in performance and fuel economy.
**But**
Did I get lucky? How much performance had I lost, if any? Who knows such things?
Without proper testing its impossible to know.
I will say this.... a properly installed EDIS system, with matched components, should work pretty well on most applications. No need to change it.
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If you're after performance, none of the stock manifolds are optimal.
Ponder this... with a quality valve job, including porting the surrounding area (bowl, unshrouding, etc) the valve could theoretically flow 80% (or thereabouts) its area. An N42's port area is only 53%!
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Thanks RonTyler
I think what i meant to say is do i haveto run coil "packs" or can i run compeltely seperate coils. If so how would i achieve this
Pete covered that in his last post... second paragraph.
and is there any good documents on Coil On Plug setups
There is a never ending combination of parts that will work tegether... some better than others. I have never seen an "all in one" source. Spend some time with Google and you'll find enough to keep you busy for a LONG time.
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The TB is cooled because blipping the throttle can overheat the throttle plate...
You're all wrong... JohnC is right
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Any modern inductive coil will work with EDIS.
Pete,
I've only checked a couple makes of OE coil packs for primary resistance (Dodge and Ford). Have you had opportunity to check other makes?
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This thread has progressed to the point that I think this needs to be mentioned. The primary drawback of dual-post coils is that it puts the spark plugs in series. This means their polarity is opposite each other. See Below...
Courtesy Wolf...
This has been hashed out here...
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114147
However, I agree with Pete... for 99% of applications its perfectly adequate. The weaker spark is still more than sufficient most of the time... I know of people running over 20psi on dual post coils.
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Is there any reason not to use these after-market coils? Anyone know anything about them?
I've never used an Accel coil. Technically, it should work just fine.
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The burnout looks suspiciously like Tenyk Rd.
Stop by sometime?!?!?!
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So i take it that if i wanted to run individual coils i would need wolf 3d?
Wolf is a good choice. However, its not the only choice. MS will run COP (coil-on-plug) but it isn't well documented (last I checked). Motec, Autronic, Haltech, and several others will as well.
Take i would still use this "ford" system if i could use aftermarket coils instead of the stock one
I'm having trouble reading you. Are you saying running EDIS with a different brand of coil pack? If so, it is a possibility. I once ran a Dodge coil pack on an EDIS system. It would take some research on your part but I believe its an option.
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Not sure if this fits under this forum but what is the weight of a 78 280z minus the bumpers and hood and bumper shocks roughly
My bone stock '78, with exception of slightly lighter wheels and A/C, weighs 2700 flat (dry).
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I assume by plastic covers you are talking about the red things the corvettes use. Definitely won't be using those since the won't exactly work in my application. Here it is with the coil packs removed to prevent damage.
PERFECT... thats it! Kudos.
I see what you mean in the link... I think, from a performance perspective, the longer wires are negligible... but definitely distracting.
I like your plan... build an attractive coil plate and you should be 'there'.
Maybe replace the oil fill with a low profile cap as well?
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Man, you do nice work. I love such a clean look.
Thank you!
The aluminum mounting plate gave me a good idea for dressing up my LS2 motor. Everything else on the motor is shiny aluminum. I think an alumimum plate will complement the engine soo much better than a black piece of steel.
So I take it your running your LS2 without the plastic covers? That would be something I’d like to see. The covers look good but EVERYONE uses them... I think you’d have something unique if you could fancy things up enough to run without’em.
FWIW, MSD and Edlebrock are the only two who make an inginition box for the carbed LS motors, and my guess is they rebadge the same box. Hopefully the box won't let me down.
My experiences with MSD have all been analog... their digital stuff could be a different story. I should have qualified that earlier.
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Engine is being built to take 25psi boost so it sounds like CDI to be sure. Mercury outboard coils?
Richard,
I’ve heard the Mercury CDI coils are pretty good... I have no first hand experience so take it with a grain of salt.
Have you looked into J&S Safeguard? John’s website isn’t that impressive... its mostly just an introduction, so don’t let that turn you off. In a nut shell, he builds some of the finest ignitors in the biz. and couples them to a ‘smart’ knock system. Its capable of detecting which cylinders are knocking, and optimizing timing on an INDIVIDUAL basis. So you end up with a quasi-custom timing map for EACH cylinder.
He makes 2,3 and 4 channel systems, and has adapted a 3 channel system to a VG30DE (becoming wasted spark). I have spoken to John about installing two 3 channel systems... he said that application would work very well. To my knowledge, his stuff is all inductive.
As I understand it, about half of the Formula 1 cars run CD and the other half inductive. I’m not trying to start a debate. Just trying to make the point that they both CAN work. I hate to see you spend all that money on a system when inductive could get the job done.
If the system is designed to work well together, I don’t see the problem with inductive. Thats just my opinion... I could be wrong
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gjc5500,
Glad we could help
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Pete beat me to it... I'm also of the opinion that 500HP is do-able on the stock ignition. Its been done many times. Do you have reason to believe they won't be up to the task or are you just covering your backside?
I understand there are a lot of variables but it may take more than 18psi to get to 500. Lum is getting pretty close to 400hp at 15psi.
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Thanks Pete.
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How are they for a CDI system? My engine is a VG30DET so no distributor, probably will use a M&W six channel module, see http://www.mwignitions.com/cdi2.htm
Richard,
These coils have a built in ignitor. So, as far as I know, there is no way to make them work with a CDI box. Also, I'd be surprised if they were any better than the OE coils you already have.
Pete, Do you know any way to make that work?
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I can and do have data that tells me a spoiler is worth a large chunk of time even at autox speeds. And that's all I'm sharing
A-mod is proof of that. I was at Bremerton a few years back for a National Tour. One of the multi-time champs was there (sorry, can't remember his name). Unbelievably fast.
Why is the Throttle Body Water Cooled?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Not following you. The PCV system pulls crank-case vapors into the intake manifold (with manifold vacuum) via the PCV valve. The PCV valve is plumbed into the bottom, central portion of a stock manifold.