kcelectronics
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Posts posted by kcelectronics
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SWEET!!!!!! love the color, what wheels will you be running?
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Well car is painted (see sig) looks perfect great color. Will post more pictures when I have access to faster internet. This color makes the 2+2 so much better!
Hope to have it home and being assembled this week.
Need Pictures!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
:D:D:D:D:D:D I have to see it??? -
Found this on the Australian Ebay what more is there to say?
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No motor at the moment, hence the large wheel gaps:
Nice:mparty:
What type of Motor will it have?
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I will say it. That car is hideous! Ugly as hell! What a waste!
hey, anyone know where I can get 2+2 interior parts? dragon says 79+ 2+2 parts but not 78!
Maybe in the 70's it was "COOL" but now it just looks "UGLY" dont forget in the 70's they thought lots of things looked good??????? and we cant forget DISCO (we all wish we could)
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HiOn a negative note I can confirm that a 280ZX power rack WILL NOT fit in a 260,
the only thing that my have worked was to use the 280 Xmember, but I shy'd away from upsetting the geometry.Enjoy the piccy's.
Nige
I used a Subaru rack in my 2+2?
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...both look good in my opinion
But since we all drive 2+2's, I guess we'll all be driving our 2+2's in hell as well! HAHA
Yes they both look good, See you all in Hell. LOL:icon6:
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I have been thinking and I don't think that it is a colour issue.
From this angle or from the front, any 2+2 looks really nice,
However when you take a direct side on shot like this
It looks too long (out of proportion). I think that it is more the photography angles rather than the colours.
Just my 2cents.
I bought the 2+2 for this reason! I think it looks better than the Coupe ( before I get All the HATE mail, IT'S JUST MY OPINION!!!!) and I know I will got to hell for this but the coupe is too short for me? The 2+2 looks sleeker when compared to the coupe.
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great piece of info lookin for this aswell.
One question i have is whhere can i get the entire RB30 FSM, as well.. when torquing to spec like these, does one usually use the median as a baseline? i figure they dont give you exact specs due to the fact that some tools may be calibrated in a different way, so would working with the middle of the range be ideal here?
what's everyones thoughts on that? because a race engine builder assured me that going closer to the lower end is better if u want a "spinny" engine.
:/
The range is used because of all the variables involved, (friction on there threads, under the bolt /nut head, stretch of the bolt/stud etc.)
By using the lower end of the range wont "free up" the engine and allow it to spin easier? That is caused by the bearing clearances, A lot of old school builders used to run loose clearances for this purpose and to allow more oil flow which helps bearing cooling.
The best way to accurately measure the correct tension is by bolt "stretch" but the Torque method is usually used, but some FSM's now use the No. Of Degrees of twist on a Angle torque wrench check these links.
http://www.ferret.com.au/articles/cf/0c0203cf.asp
http://news.thomasnet.com/fullstory/484855/2196
I have ALWAYS used the higher limit when I assemble an engine. using a regular type Torque wrench
Also if "race engine builder assured me" uses lower torque settings to build loose "race" engines I would go somewhere else!! (just my 2 cents worth)
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About how much did you have to remove?
Not that much, I will taks some pictures for you to look at OK
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HI Devil-Z,
Its actually a coupe rear spoiler which is slightly modified to fit.
The underside of ends needed to be sanded to suit the shape of the top rear 1/4 panels.
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LOL!!!
Sorry KCE but you know I had to say it. FWIW, if you look at any of my other posts referencing Aussie enginuity, you'll see I have tremendous respect for you guys.
I'll post a pic of my '72 bright red and white Cadillac convertible later. It has ostrich skin seats with rattlesnake trim and a beautiful huge set of Texas longhorns instead of a front bumper. You can laugh all you want at my classy ride if it makes you feel any better. Fair enough?
Later Yall!
Mike (pronounced Mahk)
Hi Mike,
No offence taken, I was just ashamed that this "Thing" lives here! LOL:burnout:
I suppose it takes all sorts! and without things like this to laugh/puke at it would be a boring world? (then again maybe not), this is the sort of thing I have seen in some Asian countries not too far from us here "Down Under" so I suppose it may be an Imported taste in "Style" (sic)
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It's an Aussie car... what do you expect?
Hold on there Tex i'm an Aussie,and all I can say is WTF and this is the first time I have EVER seen crap like this over here! Also I can't believe the starting price! AU$3000, I think they forgot the decimal point.
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Skillet.
I`ve been doing graphic and industrial design since 1989. Currently I work for JADA Toys (www.jadatoys.com). We are going to release a 1/24 240Z diecast model based on my car. I prepared a few wallpapers for the occasion. The ones I posted here were just two of them.
Here`s another one. If you have any questions please ask, I`d be happy to answer.
ERIC
is this the modle car based on your Z?
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HI
You need to align both the doors first, and then work forward fitting the fenders next! The hinges are moveable, but with the fenders ON it’s a bit cramped, and you may need to pull the fender forward to give you the correct gaps?
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That is exactly what I did to EFI MT first 240Z and it was the best thing I ever did for daily driveability
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There is not much pollution stuff on the intake manifold most of the plumbing is for the EFI, PC, Brake Booster va lines for the A/Con. And the Trans modulator. And if its your daily driver why mess with it? You won't save anything by ripping it out?
There are also water pipes there for the Cold enrichment valve (like an efi choke)
So for a daily driver you would best leave it?
Is this motor currently in a 2.4 skyline?
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What do you intend using the engine for?
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I dont know what the rate is in the USA but you drop about $5,000~$10,000 just driving your New car out of the dealers show room, and it just goes down hill from there. So it will cost you one way or the other. You will never get your money back, so you may as well enjoy yourself, no matter what car you own/love.
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Just to let you know I bought a Ford 302 years ago that had literally only been driven to church on Sunday, by an old lady and it had sat for over 12 months.
The first time I drove it on the freeway it left a blue smoke haze behind, I also thought that I would need to rebuild the engine (45,000 original miles) but after driving it hard for a few weeks, the smoke gradually stopped and the engine ran for another 200,000 without missing a beat?
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I've never seen a ZX rack but the 240 rack can be dissassembled and reassembled to make it RHD just by rearranging the parts. Maybe the ZX rack is the same way?
How do you reverse the rack? the pinion needs to be under the rack, but when the whole assembly is turned over, the pinion is on top which reverses the steering so when you turn the steering wheel right the rack goes left?
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If you flip the rack over, you reverse the rack/steering direction!!!!
:D:D:D:D:D:D I have to see it???
the only thing that my have worked was to use the 280 Xmember, but I shy'd away from upsetting the geometry.
:confused:
2+2 Owners
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
If my memory is still working LOL the quarter-windows don't have actual hinges, they have thin spring steel attachments that use very short flat head screws to attach to the "T" shaped bracket that closes the door opening where the door rubber fits (where the front of the 1/4 windows attach}
Hope I have explained it well enough???