trippintl0

yeah, if you can find the clips off of a supra that aren't broken, just cut those off. also, i think that although the cressida has similar dohc inline 6, it uses different clips. i just finally found 6 plugs from a supra turbo the other day that weren't broken! (got the 440cc injectors, too!). Actually, i don't know for sure, but the non-turbo supra injector clips might work too. btw, on my car, i used the stock z injector o-rings for the pintle caps. the supra ones are too big, if a recall correctly. i have pallnet fuel rail, so i didn't try to use any hold-down...in fact i never even considered it? do you guys know if this could be a problem, not using the hold downs?

go ahead and get a wbo2 sensor.

i used to snap valve cover bolts all the time until I realized how small they were, then I stopped tightening them so tight. But yeah, I've had a few other things just break on me, but hey, the car is almost 30 years old, so it's not doing too bad.

get under there near the moon thing, loosen the jam nut, and tighten the other nut to pull the whole thing tighter (you might need a backup wrench on the tiny little bolt - be careful, because I snapped mine in half the other day), then get in car, check it, once it's good, go back under and tighten the jam nut so it won't loosen.. I think nuts are 10mm, the wrench flats on the bolt are even smaller.

hmmm...simple solution - buy some tools, go to the junkyard, get a tranny for $75-100, get some fluid for $10-20, get some kind of manual for $20, swap it in....!!! sounds like fun to me! i agree with the guy who said not to modify your daily driver. leave the daily driver stock, and modify the other one a lot.

Hey how's it going. So I have this 1980 280zx. The car used to drive perfectly straight. But after snapping a couple of tension rods and the resulting stress on the unibody, I guess it has done some damage. There is a section right where the engine / steering crossmember bolts to the frame, where the frame is deformed about an inch (pulled away from strut housing sheetmetal). Also, the front support under radiator (where tension rod mounts bolt to) is looking deformed. The alignment is all screwy. Caster is like 2.4 on one side and 2.8 on the other. Camber is like -1.00 on one side and +1.00 on the other. The car is driveable, but pulls to the left. Because of this alignment, car handles nice when turning one direction, but feels like it is going to lose control when turning the other way (like on a long freeway curve). So here's the question. I'm looking for opinions. I like this car, but I realize that it might not be worth fixing it. I think I could weld in new metal, but I don't think I could align the new metal straight enough. Would it be worth having a frame shop straighten it, and then I could reinforce it with new metal (or let them do it)? Or in your opinion, should I just wait until I find a cheap Z that doesn't run, but good frame, and swap everything over? (I prefer 280zx since it's daily driver and I like stock aerodynamics) Sorry for the long post...I'm a little stressed...opinions???

"Can you just save you settings, and then load your msq file back in with the high res code" Yes that's basically what I did - it loads in fine, none of my settings got screwed up (that I know of!) although there were like 4 or 5 warnings.

Many people reported having to lean out their maps a bit. Personally I leaned out the idle some. Then I drove it around for a while on AutoTune, but I don't really recall if it changed much. (It seemed to drive fine).

OK, not really High-Def, but High-Resolution MSnS Extra. I was just reading on the new msnsextra website ( http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=18741&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 ) when I heard about Hi-Res MSnS-Extra code. It sacrifices the Pulse-Width Modulation (for use with low-impedance injectors) in favor of much higher resolution of the injector pulse widths (thousandth of a ms rather than tenth). After reading about it this morning, I decided I wanted it. Since I had previously wired up my injectors with butt-crimp connectors, I figured I needed to replace the wiring anyways. So I got my soldering gun & heat shrink and wired up the old 280zx dropping-resistors (I was previously using the Flyback board and PWM to control the low-imp. toyota supra 440cc injectors). Recalibrated new code with EasyTherm, and loaded it up. The results? WOW! This code is sweet. I had been having a problem of a rough idle that like to wander up and down. That's all gone now. Idle is sooo smooth, it's lovely. Other people also mentioned that their WideBand O2 Sensor doesn't fluctuate as much - I didn't really notice this, but I don't look at the o2 sensor much anyways, so who knows.. Anyways, if you are running MS1 with MSnS-Extra, I recommend the hi-res code!

I ordered my MS1 v3.0 + wiring harness from RS AutoSport and had no problems at all. He also responded to an email pretty quickly when I had a question. I ordered the LC-1 Wideband O2 sensor from DIYAutoTune for $200. No problems with it either. I recommend either of them.

two of those extra wires to the transmission are probably the neutral/park start switch. It is a switch that is only grounded when the automatic tranny is in park or neutral. Since you have a manual, these two wires can be permanently connected together. (or if you mess with inhibitor relay, like you said, that probably took care of it, too!) looking good btw

not to hijack, but i sent an email as well, a few days ago, about the possibililty of adjustable 280zx t/c rods... (while searching i found a post from 2004 where you said you had some sitting on a shelf!!) just wondering if this was still available or possible to be made.. thanks!

you drove the car like that? whoaaa.... that car is definitely not worth repairing (in my opinion), unless maybe for educational purposes.

ok on second thought, i looked again, and it says that for HEI module to control dwell, invert output should NOT be checked. see this pic (ignore the fact that it is also a VR pickup using a second HEI module, and look at the bottom module that drives the coil):

Well, i know it says to have the output inverted for the external modules. but strangely enough, mine only works when it is NOT inverted. The way I have it (not-inverted), my car idles fine, runs pretty well, even up to high rpms. It does have occasional 'misses' during idle. When I set spark output to inverted, (and adjust timing compensation) the car will idle erraticly - up to 1200 then down to 600 and so forth. it still revs up OK, but when driving, i can smell LOTS of gas in the exhaust fumes, whereas with the ouput not-inverted, exhaust seems to smell OK...? With spark output not-inverted, i keep the dwell settings on "Fixed Duty-75%" although it seems to run just the same on 50%. With output Inverted, I set the dwell settings to 50% (like it says to), but the car still wasn't running well at all.

you know, i'm using the autozone HEI module, with stock 280zx coil (can't remember if it is turbo or non-turbo). I haven't really had any problems, and I've driven for hours without it dying or anything, for the last 3 months, but I wonder if I could improve it by using a better quality HEI and a 300zx coil? BTW, is that 300zx non-turbo or turbo coil? or does it matter? also, I originally had the same issue with the VB921 running great for a few minutes, then getting weaker and weaker and eventually dying. I decided to just go with HEI at the time.

i know this might seem stupid - but is it possible that the ignition rotor in the distributor is like right on the edge of the terminal on the distributor cap, so that when it advances (or retards) enough, it jumps to the next spark plug wire?

well, the only thing is that the holes where it bolts to the control arm are different than the z. so (i think) to use the one for the z, i'd have to remove the 'hockey' piece that bolts to the arm, and replace it with either my stock tension rod (cut and threaded) or make my own 'hockey' piece.

Hello, I recently took my car to the alignment shoip and caster is way off, so I'm trying to get adjustable tension rods. Of course nobody makes any for the S130, so I'm looking at making my own. I was planning on using rod ends to replace the bushings, then a hex shaped tube that's threaded inside for adjustments, then cutting off stock rod and threading the end of it. First, does this sound OK, and second, does this tube look like it will be strong enough for the tension rod: http://www.midwestcontrol.com/buy.php?item=1760 I searched and found chassisshop.com, but they seem to only have tube or solid bar that you weld to a threaded adaptor (which would probably be better, just more work and more expensive). Of course, I don't want my rod to bend or break while I'm driving. This is a street car, but sometimes driven hard in isolated areas. Any comments?

ohh i see! If it's rear, then that means there should be 4 of them, correct?

ohhh, I see now, the rubber or urethane bushings install INTO the plastic bushings through the adjustable piece.....duh!! I was thinking to myself,, those plastic bushings look pretty thin, wouldn't allow for much deflection! hehe... on the zx, the control arm wouldn't allow that piece to be inserted in, that's why I couldn't picture it in my mind! here's some more pics of the mystery part: and

Cool, i'll probably keep the solid diff mount for my 280zx!! Man, too bad I don't have the strut rod to go with those mounts!!

Hello, I picked up a bunch of parts from a guy who was supposedly going to build a performance 240z. BUT, there were parts from other cars mixed in as well. Anyways, I have a 280zx, so I don't want this stuff, so I'm planning on putting it on EBay. I've been searching for the last hour or so trying to find pictures of what I THINK this stuff is for, but none seem to match exactly. This looks like a solid differential mount to me, but it only has 1 angled side, whereas MSA's picture shows 2 angled sides. Also, MSA's is steel, and this one is aluminum (I think - non-magnetic, lightweight). I couldn't find any pics of this thing, so I don't have a clue what it is for. It looks like it belongs with the above piece. I know these are some kind of adjustable bushing thing, but I don't know if it is for front, rear, 240z, 280z, etc. Does it look like it is missing a bushing or something, or is it ready to install like this? This last one looks like it could be used to replace a tension rod bushing or maybe to attach a custom control arm to, or it might just be a universal joint? I have no clue: Thanks so much for taking a look at this - any help would be appreciated!

yes, in the ms installation guide (megasquirt.info) it explains how to set PWM and everything for high or low impedance injectors.

well, he he, it turns out the plugs were pretty much fouled out. too much running rich. i reflashed my code anyways, and downloaded the newest version of megatune. hopefully i can use autotune to help me get this thing running better. it's still running crappy compared to how it was before the alarm and all that.