DuoWing

I figured I was probably good to go, but is there any reason why there's so many different posts and guides telling you to have the distributor shaft inline with the distributor mounting holes? Even in the older FSM with the 11:25 positioning, the picture still looks pretty similar.

After a long time of not touching this thing I'm trying to get back to it and actually get this car running well. While I prepare to get my MS setup installed I saw a post by Chickenman about phasing the distributor rotor so I decided I should do that as I build my harness. I've never had an issue with being able to set and adjust timing with a light and a distributor, but I figured I should check the alignment of the shaft. This is an 83' Turbo motor. It was pulled apart and freshened up when swapped into my 76' Z. So I'm trying to figure out what the actual positioning of the distributor shaft is when the motor is at TDC. I've seen so many posts, different things being said for the alignment, etc. I have the timing mark lined up with 0* TDC, I've verified the cam lobes for cylinder 1 are both pointed up. FSM: My Shaft: I saw another post by Chickenman which had a picture looking just like mine. I'm thinking I'm fine since my shaft matches the drawing in the FSM, but I figured I'll ask here and see what the consensus is.

Was the temp sensor replaced by you or the previous owner? Also was it the temperature sensor or the temperature sender for the temp gauge itself? This sounds really similar to the temp sensor being bad. Also I'm not sure if the 280z did it, but I know with the ZX up over a certain speed or it might be RPM the car goes into open loop where it reverts to just using the ecu programmed fuel maps and doesn't really use the sensors. Years ago my turbo ZX was running awful, but if I really got on it or on the freeway when you're cruising at over 65 (3-speed auto)/higher RPMs I'd suddenly notice the car ran really good. As soon as I went back under it started running rough. Reading through the FSM I found out about it using closed loop under lower RPM and open loop at higher.

This thread sounds exactly like what I need. Especially considering you can even buy one of these civic driers for about $10. The only concern I have is, would this be too small of an amount for a surge tank, or it really shouldn't matter?

I'm considering the Phantom 200. I like the placement, but how do you ensure that the pump stays in the fuel in that location, or is it adjustable in such a way that the filter and pump can be vertical even when the bracket is horizontal? Nevermind, I didn't realize this was a later 280Z tank. I've never seen one, and didn't realize the sender is actually on top.

So I ordered the T3 Rear Lower Control Arms to put on my 280z forever project. Anyway I got them installed loosely, and I didn't tighten down the bolt and nut because the car is currently not going anywhere, but I see how I have a lot of space between the rod ends and the mounting point at the bottom of the strut. Is there an additional bushing that goes here, or do I just install the washers/shims in this space? If I'm installing the shims, does anyone have the order I should put the shims to end up with stock alignment?

I've been searching around trying to determine what to use for my front suspension. I was thinking of going the stock style T3 control arm and t/c rod, but this set does come out a bit cheaper. I would like to track my car a little at some point, but primarily would just be street driving. Would there be any reason to go for the stock style ones over the gtx2 set?

This is something I'd definitely be interested in. So with this you would just need the brackets, the calipers, and to re-drill/bore out the rotors?

I'm looking to do the conversion to the Z31 Turbo CVs and I wanted to see if anyone has a set of the companion flanges and CVs for sale. Let me know. PM or e-mail: duowing@gmail.com Thanks.

Yeah, at first I was looking at it from a savings stand point. Then I put more attention to it and realized I wouldn't be saving that much overall. I was looking at this vs. say the billet stub axles and the wolf creek cv kit. So they'd come close in price, but almost be better to just go this route as so many more advantages in the end.

I've been searching around and trying to find some information. I tried e-mailing T3, but perhapsperhaps I wasn't saying what I wanted to properly. Would it be possible to take portions of the kit and do essentially the CV, later wheel bearing, hub, and brake conversion while maintaining the original long nose R200? From what I understand is that as long as you swap a LSD intended for an open diff 240sx you end up with the same spline count as the S30. So I would assume you could also grab those axles. I guess you'd still be looking at a pricey conversion, but you'd be able to maintain the stock driveshaft, moustache bar, etc and switch to coilovers while moving away from the stub axles. Is there anything about this that I'm missing or that might not make this work?

As asked is your pump mounted in the stock location? These pumps almost need to be mounted low enough to be gravity fed by the tank otherwise they will sooner or later start complaining. Do you have a filter between tank and pump? This can cause the pump to complain. One big thing that I've found through JeffP's posts and my own experiences is that using the stock wiring and stock relay is not advisable. Any aftermarket pump needs to be pretty much upgraded to bigger wiring. Using the stock wiring I was experiencing a very hot relay and a 1v drop from relay to pump once warm. Part of what I did was get one of those 70amp relays they use for the electric cooling fans and upgrade to 10 gauge wiring.

I'm still looking for one of these if anyone happens to have one for sale

Akira, sent you a PM

I came across this thread and I figured instead of start another, I'll throw in that I'm looking for one of these as well. I'm looking for second/middle pinion flange in the above pic to mate the diff to the driveshaft in my 76'