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jersey280

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About jersey280

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    Mahwah, NJ
  1. Most were too loose, I cant say by how much, i just corrected. The bucking/stumbling is more accurate description then "rough". Ive read small things like pedal adjustment/replacement and throttle linkage repair or replacement may help, yet I feel its more deep the these adjustments.
  2. Appreciate all of the great ideas. I had originally adjusted the valve lash. Drove the car about 70miles. Then issues had arouse on the trip home (loss of power, backfiring out exhaust). I checked valves again, appeared to be slightly off. I adjusted again to cold setting of .008/.010 and started her up again. I was able to eliminate the intake backfire by advancing timing to about 13BTC. Took her for a spirited drive, no issues. Car just seems to have a rough low rpm driveability, bad boy wants me to pedal down. Wondering what would have caused the valves to go out of spec so quickly?
  3. Zhoob, I checked with a screw driver down the plug hold and it definitely feels to be TDC. I also used the photo graph attached to verify. Is it possible my injector connectors got swapped? how can i verify? edit: couple days ago I also adjusted all valves to spec, which werent off by much.
  4. Newzed, i believe i am doing this correctly. See attached photos verifiying. It all looks squared away to me? Timing mark on crank at 0 to verify TDC Sproket hole 1 Oblong ridge lines with V perfectly
  5. Thanks Newzed, ill take a look at it tommorow and check back in.
  6. Hey guys, I'm nearing my wits end with my car (76 280z with a 78 engine n42head n42block). The P.O seems to have deleted all of the emissions and most of the vacuum lines (egr, pcv, bcdd all blocked off). I am having this issue now where i have back firing from the intake at idle (dozen or so per minute) and after warm backfiring out the exhaust and loss of power while on the road. Additionally, the car seems to start at a very high idle. The fuel system is all custom cell with -AN set up (pressure great), valves adjusted to spec, injectors rebuilt with new gaskets, pintels, screens ect, Vacuum was checked and rechecked including with carb cleaner trick. Timing checked, temp senor replaced, all connectors replaced with new, all new plugs wires cap and rotor, new coil with internal regulator (external resistor bypassed), AFM checked for any possible signs of wear or anything, shows nothing looks great. TPS looks good, engages when suppose to. I am obsessive and have done tons of research and I cant seem to figure this out. Can anyone save this Z from being driven into a lake due to frustration? Thanks!
  7. JHM- Thanks for the response. It appears that the safety switch feeds from the front and rear master. It then has 2 lines for the front and 1 for the rears. Is there some sort of bridge you used to connect the 2 fronts to feed to the single proportioning valve? SleeperZ- I agree, the safer the better. I assumed the brake gauge light was inside the cluster that I have removed? Which would cause me to no longer be able to read the signal it produces. Additionally, we are driving tin cans which weren't designed to be on the roads today (for example: federal speed limits were 55 in 1973, the advent of airbags and crumble zone technologies) they really don't get any more unsafe then they already are.
  8. Hey guys, Own a 76 280z with the brake safety switch block that is leaking (the thing under the booster that looks like a proportioning valve). I have replaced all of my gauges with a modern style and have no need of the indicator light that would be displayed by the safety switch. Has anyone ever deleted the switch? Does it cause proportioning issues? If you did any tips or ideas on how to rerun the lines? Thanks!
  9. Hey guys, I own a 76 280z and recently purchased a intellitronix fuel gauge. The gauge only reads the following ranges. 73 to 10 ohms 0 to 90 ohms 10 to 180 ohms (or 0 to 30) And 240 to 33 ohms From my research, it appears that our stock fuel sending unit is 90ohms empty 10ohms full. The closest range appears to be 73 to 10. Will that give me close to an accurate reading or is there a sender I can use with the stock tank to make this work? any ideas would be great thanks!
  10. Hey guys, 1978 280z L28E. Whenever I turn the key to any position forward the fuel pump runs constantly. Isn't it suppose to prime for a few seconds and then stop prior to turning the car over? Appears to be a replaced fuel pump by P.O looks relatively new. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys
  11. Hey guys, Just replaced all of my bulbs with LED bulbs in my 78 280z. All work fine except my rear hazards. My front LED turn signal bulbs blink fine for turn or hazard mode. As soon as I remove and replace both original halogen rear bulbs, they turn solid and no longer flash. I can replace one rear with an LED and another with a halogen and they blink. It appears the old style rear bulbs are causing something to happen that the new LED's are not. Any idea what is going on? Appreciate it!
  12. Thanks for the reply. Issue is, car never did it for years, now it does. It definetly doesnt sound like something that it should do either. It sounds just like a rapid fire clicking for about 1.5 seconds then goes away. Very odd.
  13. Hey guys, I have a 76 280z with stock L28. When I turn the ignition over to run, as to engage the fuel pump, everything works fine. Pump turns on, car will start and run smoothly. If I engage the fuel pump and let the car sit before actually turning the motor over, a clicking noise comes from the area of the injectors. It can only be described as a "electronic click" that lasts about 1.5 seconds. It does not sound healthy, almost like a electrical short. I disconnected all injectors and tried again, noise gone. I then individually plugged the injectors in one by one, and each one of the "clicked" one by one. Anyone have any experience with this? I can only assume this isn't good. Thanks!
  14. Based on my "investigation" the only 2 issues ive located so far were the blown bulb (which i removed) and the hack job marker light (cut it). I suppose my question is, in an attempt to limit possibilities, would either of those two things ive done potentially cause a short? Does a bulb need to be in place to complete a circuit on this car? Thanks
  15. Hey guys, Have a 1976 280Z. Every time I turn on my headlights, I can visually watch fuse number 8 (top right fuse) blow. The headlights themselves do work, along with my brake lights and hazard lights. What doesn't work is my running lights/side marker or blinkers. I've inspected and cleaned every single bulb socket and checked for frayed wires. Additionally, a few months ago I rebuilt combination switch which worked perfectly.I only identified two possible issues, one being a blown passenger side rear running light, which I've removed. The passenger side marker light appeared to have a old splice job on it so I removed it temporarily. I'm not sure if the one blown buld and the removed side marker would cause a short in the system? Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
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