EMWHYR0HEN

Get yourself a factory service manual. You'll have access to all the emissions/vacuum diagrams as well as wiring diagrams. I had to remove some unused wires and reconfigure the looms to get everything to fit right. For reference, here's all that I removed. Does the HR use a serpentine belt? if not just remove the PS/AC and find a smaller belt.

It would probably be easier and more cost effective to just make a Y pipe from scratch.

Thanks for the shout out. You doing great work! keep it up I would consider making the exhaust collector more into a "V" shape rather than a "U". You'd be surprised how well the VQ responds to exhaust tweaks like that.

Glad to hear you got it cranking. I know the feeling of trying to rush and get the engine started. Have a few car buddies come over and go over your work and make sure all is good. It's really easy to miss a few things sometimes.

Congrats Cameron. Where are the vids?!

No issues in 2+ years now. I would buy another unit.

I just got done redoing my rear struts after installing TTT camber plates. I lost about 1.5 inches of ride height after the install. I had to add a section to the strut, lengthen the spacer under the strut, and raise the spring perch. It was quite a bit of work, but must be done if you want the right ride height with proper shock damping.

I'm running a return style with an aeromotive regulator. I joined the rails using AN to barb fittings then standard rubber fuel line to a "Y" fitting. The fuel rail diameter is small so TIG weld it for sure. I guess you could do it with a MIG, but it wouldn't be as tight and precise.

I'm sorry, but that's just silly.

I think the Mckinny mount set is a bit overpriced. You made the right move making your own especially since you know how to weld. However, I think you can get a stronger structure out of the mounts if you boxed the lateral parts, even with thinner material. Nice work so far

Good call. That's fast for a canyon rd. I would try to get familiar with the road like you would for a race track. Youtube, google maps, Thomas guide, pre- running, etc. Just curious does it take long to get your tires up to temp?

We're assuming slower speed turns so less roll. Therefore, increasing positive camber might be helpful. If you're comfortable how the car handles now I wouldn't make any drastic changes. Maybe play with ride height, and track width to get the car to rotate more. Good luck.

What you want to do is increase the amount of torque applied at the rear wheels. You can do that by trying a more aggressive pad material, increasing rotor diameter, or increasing the force of the caliper.

Warm up the engine from a cold startup and make sure your thermostat is opening and your fans are working/ turning on at the right temp. Find the highest point in the cooling system to bleed out all the air. Sometimes it also helps to jack up the front of the car and blast the heater while your adding water and bleeding the system. Generally if i'm trying to bring water temps down a bit I like to lean out the coolant and add more distilled water and water wetter.

Anyone have any other tire recommendations? I'm finding Good info but might be biased because of sponsors, etc. To be more specific i'm trying to find out what kind of wear and # of heat cycles are expected from a light S30 and sticky tires.