BRAAP

Woldson, Thank you for your input. I’m going to try Pete’s advice and solder a ground wire from the Serial connector outer shield to a DB-37 ground pin. I’ll update after the mod…

Ok, I did some more playing around with the “reset” issue tonight. I was able to narrow this issue down even further, but I still have absolutely no clue as to why the resets are taking place…. Here is the brief version of what I found this evening. In a nut shell, as long as the outer metal shield that surrounds the Serial connector is grounded to body ground, there are NO resets and the engine runs. Now here is the interesting part of this That metal shield surrounding the serial connector isn’t grounded or connected to anything on the MS board, and as far as I understand, it shouldn’t be, i.e. it is built correctly, so what gives???? Why does that outer band surrounding my Serial port need to be grounded to the body? Here are the details…. With JUST the serial cable connected to the MS controller, nothing on the other end, if I take the other end of the serial cable and hold it so that the outer metal shell is touching a “body ground”, (Serial cable grounded to a body screw circled in green), NO RESETS and the engine runs great!!! As soon as I take it off the body ground, the engine dies, and goes through multiple resets, but as long as I hold the metal portion of the serial cable end on a suitable body ground, everything is OK, NO resets…. In an effort o see if it something with the board or serial connector on the MS board is amiss, I disassembled the MS controller and all the solder joints look terrific. (RS Auto Sport built this MS controller and I am very pleased with the build quality and the customer service right after the purchase, though neither Rodney or Steve have replied to my last two E-mails in regards to questions concerning this issue… Hmmmm) I then reconnected the MS to the car, without the end cap of the MS controller that surrounds the serial connector, fired up the engine and it was gong through the reset again, even without the Serial cable connected. I then connected the serial cable, touched the other end to body ground and it ran great with no resets. My guess is that previous to my disassembling the MS controller, the outer shield was grounding to the car body through the MS controller end cap. It seems that I could fix this issue if I was to ground that outer shield to “body ground” in some fashion. At this time, it appears that would cure this reset issue, BUT, I shouldn’t have to do that, right? It has to be coming from somewhere else because if it is the serial connector needing to be grounded, I couldn’t be the first guy to stumble across this. Maybe it is something else causing this in the first place? ARRGGHHH…. These pics show the serial connector and the surrounding metal shield is highlighted in purple. FWIW, During an ohm check to verify continuity between the serial pins and the solder joints, (that checked out A-OK by the way), I found that the outer metal shield is not electrically connected to any portion of the MS board or any grounds (pin 19 on the DB-37) or any of the serial connector pins.

Thank you. The GM one wire alternator was relocated to the drivers side of the engine do to clearance issue with the radiator I wanted to use. Here you can see the relocated alternator…

Yes, that is a .520” lift cam that we offer, ground by Rebello. That cam is for a Hybrid member, (Silent), and is going in custom N-47 that we are building for his radical stroker street Z. He has been talking about Nitrous as well… I might be installing that same grind into our race car over the winter as well. It would make for a nice mild-moderate race cam.

Ed, Here are some pics of the DIS ignition components on this car. Pic one is of the Chrysler coil pack mounted on the passenger strut tower, and you can just make out the EDIS module itself in the top right corner under the fender bolted to the fender gusset. Pic 2 is of the EDIS module tucked under that fender. Pic 3 and 4 show the OE damper machined down with a Escort 36-1 wheel attached and the VR mounting bracket where the alternator used to reside. There is a 14” cooling fan on the car. It is mounted in front of the radiator on the core support, approx ½ inch off the radiator as a pusher. As long as the car is moving through the air, even at really slow speeds, the temp gauge never rises above 180 degrees, it has no issues with cooling, so fan placement or efficiency was of no concern. It is only to move a little air while sitting in the pits on hot days.

Mario, Yeah, that does sort of make sense, possibly an issue with the serial connector in the MS controller itself or its connection on the PCB board… I’ll look into that tomorrow…. FWIW It did have this reset issue since the first time it fired up, though it seems to have gotten worse since then. I just recently linked it to the serial cable being connected vs not connected. Thanks again, Paul

Pete, Timer interval is currently set at 100, (I played with Timer Intervals between 50 and 150, no change to the reset issue). Serial Data rate is 9600. As for the other stuff, bit rate, stop bits, where would I find that or are those just other terms for the serial baud rate? I was thinking Comm settings as well, till I played with just plugging in the serial cable by itself, no lap top or anything else on the other end of the serial cable, and with just the serial cable plugged into the MS controller all by itself, the resets were worse, to the point the engine wont even run on its own. At lest with the lap top on the other end of the serial cable, the engine will at least run on its own, and over a period of time, the resets start to subside, not completely, but the frequency at which they happen lessens considerably. Are there Comm settings within the MS controller itself that might be causing this conflict with the serial cable being plugged into the serial port of the MS controller? Sure I can still tune around this bug by making a run, data logging that run using our Innovate WB O-2 Data logger, (the data logger would monitor RPM and MAP from a separate map sensor), then shut the engine down all the while keeping MS powered up, alter the VE map based on the Innovate data log, plug the lap top and serial cable into the MS controller, burn the new settings to the MS controller, disconnect the Lap top and serial cable and then go out and make another run to see if my AFR is any closer to where I want it to be… It would be nice to tune “real time” and have the MS gauges at my disposal as well, i.e. be bale to leave the lap top plugged in to the SM controller while driving. That would save a butt load of time in tuning, that for sure. This “reset” issue is the ONLY bug I have with my MS system. Other than this I couldn’t be happier with the amount of control, tunabilty, features, etc. that this MS system offers. WOW! What an upgrade over the “dumb” OE L-jet derivative this system is.

Mario, Thanks for your input. I have not tried an inline power filter, though I had originally wanted to early on as I thought this reset issue was caused by my alternator or ign back feeding my MS power wire. I have since revised that thought based on the premise that when the serial cable is NOT connected to the MS controller, I can drive the car around all I want for as long as I want under all conditions, and MS will NOT reset, even once. It only resets with the serial cable plugged into the MS controller. My hunch maybe way off and if it is, please let me know. FWIW, I did burn in a revised “fuel” and “spark” VE map to the MS controller about an hour ago, then disconnected the lap top, fired up the car and put approx 10 miles on the car driving, approx 30 minutes worth of driving and idling, not one single reset. As soon as I plugged in the serial cable, it was resetting like crazy. A completely different serial cable gave the exact same results. I unplugged the serial cable and the car was back to running great, no hiccups other than some minor flat spots in the RPM range due to a fuel map that needs a bit more attention. Do you guys still think an inline power filter will change the resets caused by a serial cable being connected to MS? I personally hate just throwing money, parts, and time at an issue without knowing if there is even a chance that will fix it.

Moby, The later versions of MSnS-E, (025+), allow for direct Tach control and few other things that when coupled with the latest MT release on a V-3 board, make it quite a bit more user friendly and the latest MT is laid out more intuitively as far as menus go. Configurator does simplify the entire setting up and configuring of MT vs the old cut and paste, (ARRGHH…), but it definitely could be simplified LOTS more, i.e. the current configurator interface is still a bit barbaric compared to the rest of the MT interface we work with on our running engines. That is my take thus far….

Okie Dokie… One issue resolved, another just narrowed down….. Issue number 1, MT communicating with MSnS-E 029q… Like duh.. My bad. Thanks for reminding me to go back and read the instructions… In my 029 folder, I clicked on the “copyini” icon, then went back into the MtConfig, and Wa-La… 029q is an option to choose, so I chose it, clicked activate in the “file” menu, set my MAP sensor and also verified that MSnS-E was selected, plugged in the lap top to the MS Controller, turned on MS and the gauges light up, good communication, no errors… YEE HAAA…. I then made some more basic config changes like setting EDIS, turning off the o2, etc. Burned these settings to the MS controller, turned off MS, disconnected my laptop, rebooted the lap top, reconnected to the MS controller, turned it on and went through and verified that my changes did in deed stay burned to the MS controller, and yes they did. Then, I unplugged the Lap top, pushed in the Honda S-2000 start button and the engine fired right up and revs free. WOO HOO… Thank you guys… Issue #2, the RESET BUG!!!! This bug DID not go away. After much fiddling with “timer interval” under Communications/settings, and no changes, I just turned off the lap top but left it plugged in to the MS controller. No change, it still resets. I then disconnected the lap top from the serial cable but left the cable itself plugged into the MS controller. That made it worse! Unplug the serial cable from the MS controller and the engine runs GREAT, no resets whatsoever. I then grabbed a friends Serial cable, verified that the lap top communicated with MS through this different cable, (yes it did), and that cable acted exactly the same. In short, my MS controller does NOT like to have a serial cable connected with the engine running, especially if the serial cable isn’t connected to the lap top. Break down of issue number 2… With the lap top connected to the MS controller, the engine will start, barely, and run, again barely, on its own as MS will reset randomly and VERY frequent, approx 1-3 times per second for the first minute or so, and as time goes on with the engine running, the resets will happen less often the longer the engine runs. After approx 1-2 minutes of run time, MS will reset randomly once every 5-40 seconds or so, no pattern to the resets or how often, i.e. any throttle position, any RPM, any engine temp, etc, MS just resets once in while, sometimes a couple few times in row. With only the serial cable itself connected the MS controller, (i.e. the lap top is NOT connected), the engine will not run on its own, it will pop and sputter while cranking and the tach will jump up when it does fire which is maybe 10% of the time that it should. Unplug the serial cable and the engine runs GREAT, then plug the serial cable into the controller with the engine running, and it pops, sputters for a approx ½ a second and dies. This MS controller does NOT Like serial cables for some reason… What could cause this? Almost sounds like a grounding issue to me, maybe a ground connection in the MS controller for the serial connector?

Ok, Am I missing something in regards to configuring MT for MS-029q? You all know I’m currently running MS-I, V-3 built by RS Autosport controlling the fuel and spark on a N/A Datsun L-28 inline 6 cylinder with EDIS, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781. It was up and running and running pretty good with approx 2 hours driving time on it with MSnS-E 025 that was tuned with MT release 225 configged for MS-027. I have put off upgrading my firmware long enough so I got REAL brave tonight and burned 029q and re installed the latest MT-225 release… Couple of issues arose from this….…. Issue number 1) In an effort to get the latest and greatest version of MSnS-E and the latest and greatest MATCHING version of MT, I downloaded MSnS-E 029q and the latest MT225 (in the about file of this version of MT, it says written on Feb 5, 8:31, from what I understand this is supposed to be the latest). As I mentioned, I was using MT225 release configged for 027 for the previous MSnS set up. I wanted to have matching MSnS-E and MT so I wasn’t having to constantly click the “NO” button when MT would ask me to “Terminate now” because of a “possible conflict that could be terminal”, every time I hooked my lap top to the MS controller. Any how, after downloading and installing MT, I went into configurator, under MegaTune 225, clicked on the latest MSnS-E that is supported by this version of MT which is only 029c, (not 029q), then under Car1/settings/settings/CODE_VARIANT, I set it to MSNS_EXTRA as specified by Rodney at RS Autosport. When I connect to my MS controller, I still get the SAME error message except that it was expecting 029b, (though I did select 029c, not 029b?!?!?). I click on the “NO” button when asked to terminate now, (something I was trying to get away from in the first place)… Issue number 2) After clicking “NO” when asked to terminate now, I made my initial settings in “constants”, turned on EDIS in the code config and spark settings, activated my Tacho out put pin, and fired up the engine. With the Lap top connected to the MS controller, the engine wont run on its own. Tach just jumps from zero to what ever RPM it is trying to fire off at, and the engine only pops and sputters while under cranking all the while MS goes through “resets” at a rate approx 5 times each second, (My tach flips to ZERO and back with every reset)…..ARRGGHH!!! With the lap top disconnected from the MS controller, the engine will fire right up and rev up nicely even though I have made NO changes to either of the VE tables for fuel or spark and MS appears to not go through any resets, though it has only run for approx 2 minutes on and off with the new firmware . As soon as I plug in the lap top into the controller, even with the engine held at 5000 RPM, the tach goes to zero and the engine shuts off with nary a sputter. I can make changes to the MT and burn them to the controller, but it wont run with the laptop plugged into the controller. As a side note, when I was running 025 in this MS controller, MS would reset on a occasion with the lap top plugged in, mostly below 1500 RPM, but I could at least drive it around with the occasional reset happening and be able to tune on the fly and read the MT gauges. With the lap top disconnected, it would only give me a little bit of trouble below 1500 RPM, not so sure those were resets though. That was then, this is now. The engine will not run with the lap top hooked up and I’m not too excited about having to still bypass that “terminate now” error message…. … I need help guys…

Uhmm… Isn’t pornography illegal on this forum? As a Christian man, (who really needs a lot of help in his walk,) this picture is definitely border line pornographic, for any self respecting car guy…. C’mon guys, honestly.. How many of you could actually resist the temptation of shedding you’re clothes and rubbing against that power plant? I’ll be the first to admit that I couldn’t resist… (I’m going to hell now….)… I'll take two, thank you.....

Hmmm… with ALL that room in front of that V-6 engine, it looks as though there is enough room for at least an R-180 between the strut towers if not an R-200 if the power and traction was crazy enough to warrant an R-200 up front …. If there is not enough room in front of the engine between the front strut towers for a Datsun diff, I do know that the engine can be moved back at least 6 more inches with some fire wall mods that shouldn’t encroach to much on passenger footwell comfort. … The GMC Syclone and Typhoon have a nifty little transfer case for All Wheel Drive Applications… Hmmm. I’d bet the All Wheel Drive Chevy Astro van and GMC Safari uses a similar if not identical transfer case… Hmmmm..mmm…mm… and more Hmmm..hhmmmmm (did I just give away an idea that a few of us Oregon Z nuts have been bench racing about for years? Is there someone out there in need of an extreme Hybrid Z project high in WOW factor that just might read this thread?...) In all honesty, our theories of the all wheel drive Z is that it would make for an awesome rainy day stop light grand prix car, equaling the EVO’s and STI’s and then eclipsing them past 80 MPH. It most likely wouldn’t autocross as well as a nicely set up RWD Hybrid Z with any number of power options under the hood, but think of the WOW factor at the Datsun meets! Honestly, who has actually built an AWD Z? An AWD S30 definitely would get my attention even if it wasn’t as fast as it should be…. Ok, that seed has finally been planted.. lets see who waters it….

Wow there is a lot of room left up front. Hmmm… Stack two of those together, 8.6L 12 cylinder…. Hmmm….

Daniel, There is a chance that you are not experiencing detonation. The fact that you live a mile up, helps reduce your chances of detonation due to less air pressure, (i.e less natural boost). I’m going out on limb here. I’m going to touch on a few controversial topics here that should be covered with much more depth than this, but being as I don’t have the time to explain the physics behind all of this, and that I don’t want to hijack this thread any more than I already have, (yeah, sorry excuse right?). Either just take what I’m posting at face value or if you do have interest in these topics, I urge you to research them on your own. There is lots of good info out there. For example, I highly recommend anything written on these topics by David Vizard and Jeff Hartman. Their writings are backed up with years of practical experience. Dan Baldwin’s personal experience is similar to Daniels, which I would gather is due to Dan B.s more aggressive cam. In practice any how, a more aggressive cam tends to be less sensitive to detonation. It seems that a more aggressive cam tends to allow an engine to run more static compression before the onset of detonation than milder cams for some reason that I do not fully understand, but am trying to figure out. I do not subscribe to the dynamic compression theory as I will describe further down. My guess is that the L-series has elevated combustion temps beyond what would be considered normal, for one reason or another, and that is why they are so octane sensitive to begin with. Some say that that more aggressive cam profiles offer less dynamic compression. Yes, this is true, but ONLY at lower RPM’s. Conventional wisdom dictates that if a bigger cam allows the engine to make more torque at the torque peak as compared to a milder cammed equivalent, that torque increases is because of more cylinder pressure at that RPM, i.e. it is making more dynamic compression at that RPM, therefore more natural boost. If dynamic compression is the reason for the engines propensity for detonation, then a larger cam “should” be more susceptible to detonation especially at torque peak, based on the “pressure” theory. Hmmmm…. Then why isn’t Dan Baldwins engine detonating more than and OE cammed equivalent?... My theory is further down this post;… It is just that, Pauls theory, so don’t take it to the bank, just yet…. I probably should be a little more specific in my comment about flat tops with open chamber heads detonating. It is VERY common that this combination is prone to detonation, though there are a few cases of this combination running with no issues. The example that Dan Baldwin brought up, an OE cammed flat top L-28 with an N-47 head having to back off the timing by 8 degrees is the norm that we see. In practice, (but not according to the dynamic compression theory any how), A bigger cam tends to help, especially at the lower RPMs where cylinder pressures are less, i.e. less dynamic compression. The only explanation I can conjure is theoretical at this time, and that theory is the natural EGR that takes place with a more aggressive cam profile does help to cool the combustion temps so that pump gas wont ignite prior to the “desired” ignition event…. Also, during the valve overlap event, a larger cam profile allows more “cool” intake charge to flow through the chamber which would help to remove excess combustion temps. Again, this is just a theory at this time and I’m sure that this theory has been busted and there is more logical explanation out there. FWIW, the typical street engine is only 75-85% volumetric efficient. I.e. it only produces 75-85% the amount of torque that its actual displacement would allow if the cylinders were to fill 100%. NASCAR engine builders have been able to extract over 110% VE, (Volumetric Efficiency), without the aid of super chargers, Turbos, or Nitrous through strategic valve timing, intake design, and exhaust tuning, etc. They are achieving essentially un-natural super charging taking advantage of the Helmholtz principle. (This would be a post that I honestly don’t have time to write up this month… ) Ok, I’ll stop there. Sorry for going so far off topic with this thread.

Ah bummer. Sorry you couldn’t get EDIS to work right. We were able to get EDIS-6 to function on our N/A L-28 with MSnS-E and we LOVE it thus far. Good luck with your new ignition …

Moby, What is the best method to disable the O2? TIA,

This thread covers how to set up your valve train with an aftermarket cam, including how to determine correct lash pad thickness… Custom Cylinder head building.. What’s involved… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108398 Then, don’t forget this thread as well… Using a degree wheel to degree in your L-series cam… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111523 Here are some pics from that thread… Hope that helps… Paul

That spark plug is NOT a Bosch Platinum 4. It is a NGK spark bolt, part number BPR6EQ13, which is no longer in production. As for Platinum spark plugs, for older engines running older fuel systems, even the OE Hitachi L-jet, I prefer not to run Platinum plugs as they are finicky when it comes to consistent fuel mixtures. They work fine IF the mixture is perfect but will foul easily if the mixture isn’t perfect. The current crop of modern multi valve engines with their very sophisticated and consistent engine management systems seem to run the platinum’s just fine. Every time I post that picture of the MN-47 with the NGK multi-electrode plug in it, someone posts about how there is NO benefit to multi electrode spark plugs, so I’ll just cover that ahead of time... Multi ground electrode spark plugs do not offer ANY offer any performance gain over standard plugs IF the air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber can get to the spark in the first place. Also, for some unknown reason, a myth started about Multi-electrode plugs. That myth being that these multi electrode plugs are able to spark simultaneously from more than one electrode… NOT!!! They will “not” spark from more than one electrode at the same time. It will only spark between the center electrode and “one” of the ground electrodes during each spark event. Due to the flow of the air fuel mixture surrounding the spark plug, if there is chance the volatile air fuel mixture doesn’t make it between the ground and center electrode of any style spark plug, the mixture wont ignite, i.e. misfire. This is the reason I chose to run those plugs, for their unshrouded spark, i.e. the spark is more exposed to the combustion chamber. It can be argued as to whether or not my reasoning has any merit in regards to the L-series as there are plenty of L-series making HUGE power utilizing standard design spark bolts. The multi-electrode plugs do unshroud the spark itself, and in my mind, allows for a greater chance of that air fuel mixture to get in between the spark gap and become ignited. Did these plugs actually improve the performance? Dunno, I never did any back to back dyno testing. I don’t trust my butt dyno enough to say yes they helped or not they didn’t. FWIW, we just acquired a sample set of BRISK spark plugs and we will be performing some back to back dyno testing in our N/A L-28 powered race car. I have yet to find where BRISK plugs weren’t a benefit of some sort, other than the cost, and their design is rather unconventional, but they also claim the benefit of a less shrouded spark which means less misfires and more consistent and even combustion events. If we can measure or feel a gain with these new fangled plugs, we will be a dealer. Whew.. Now we return you to your regularly scheduled “E-88 converted to EFI”, thread…

Very cool. Looks a like a true grass roots bare bones approach to producing mass power. When it comes to building power, whether it be N/A or boosted, I really appreciate the “purpose built, non show”, approach. The pics of your build exemplify that quite well. No showy fancy dancy high dime parts, only what is needed to make big power. Big cylinder head ports, big intake manifold, big throttle valve, big turbo, big exhaust manifold, big injectors, etc. We are looking forward to reading some big power numbers and big trap speeds at the strip to match those big parts… FWIW, It wouldn’t surprise me if after your beast is all dialed in, and I mean totally dialed in, fuel and ignition, that you could make as much as 400 HP to the wheels, with over 450 lbs of torque…. The PINKS boys hit 390 HP at 21 pounds of boost and that was at only 4900 RPM!!! That much boost with the HP peak at 5500+ RPM is well over 400+ HP…… Keep us posted…

It runs and drives. I now have approx 2 hours time on the car with MS controlling the fuel and distributor-LESS spark on our N/A L-28 powered 240-Z race car. It currently runs as strong as it did with the triples before I sold the carbs, and there is still quite a bit of tuning left, (in all fairness, the triples were pretty far out of tune when I acquired the car. I’m sure if both were tuned to optimum, if there is a difference in performance, the nod would go towards the triples.) THE CAR… This car started life as a track day car. Now its life will be spent locally pulling “F” prepared SOLO-II duty with some track days thrown in for fun. The car is a ’73 240-Z powered by a mild L-28 that I personally machined, balanced, ported, and built some 6 years ago for my good friend Vern Littrel when he owned the car. Vern built the car and chassis. He put only 4 hours on the car at track days, got into street rods and let the Z sit for 5+ years. My wife heard through the grape vine that he was selling the Race Z, so behind my back, (the nerve of some women….) she bought the car for me as a surprise. All of our family and friends knew all along what she was up to, except me. She kept this secret for over 4 months. Any how, a little over a year ago, she surprised me with the car, (I am truly a BLESSED man…), and now I owe her BIG TIME!!!! The transmission is a late model ZX 5 speed, flywheel is one of my custom lightened 225 MM Z flywheels, clutch is a Center force II. The diff is a Suby 3.90 Limited Slip R-160. The car has a pseudo full cage, fire wall back. The front half will get caged sometime in the future. One weekend I decided to build a new dash for the car and the pic below is the result. It definitely could use some refinement, but it works. The dash is made from sheet stainless painted with black wrinkle paint and attached over the OE 240 dash skeleton. The starter is engaged by a brand new Honda S-2000 start button, all vitals are monitored via Autometer gauges, a Kirky driver seat keeps the driver in place at speed, a baja style fiberglass passenger seat is for whoever is brave enough to get in with me or my wife, whoever is driving at the time. Bumps are damped with Tokico 5 ways in sectioned struts, Ground control camber plates allow for some adjustment both front and rear, Ground control coil overs front and rear, Energy poly bushings through out the car. Future chassis development consists of the T/C rod bushings will be converted to Ball sockets attached to a Hiem located LCA, Tokicos will be swapped out in favor of Advance Design cartridges valved for much stiffer springs. Tires are Formula Atlantic road racing tires, 13”x10” up front and MONSTER 13”x13” out back! THE ENGINE… The engine is a mild L-28. Pistons are OE Flat tops, the rotating and reciprocating assy were balanced, ARP main studs hold the crank in the block, ARP rod bolts keep the rods attached to the crank, Hastings rings keep the pressure on top of the piston and oil below them, and a turbo oil pump keeps the whole mess well lubed. Top end is one of my custom Maxima N-47 heads, (i.e. lots of valve unshrouding and 1.73” intake valves installed). This super whiz bang head is held down to the block with ARP head studs and a mild Schneider .480” lift bump stick opens the valves. The engine ingests all of its air through an OE non-egr N-42 intake manifold cleaned up for aesthetics and port matched. The throttle valve is a 60mm butterfly and as I’m told, came from a Sentra SE-R. The spent gasses are expelled through a MSA 6-1 header, the rest of the exhaust is a single 2.25” exhaust exhaling the spent gasses. MEGA SQUIRT!!!!! Engine management consists of MS-I, v-3.0 built by RS-Autosport running MSnS-E 025 currently, (possibly getting upgraded to 029q2 in the near future). This is the part I like most. Spark is supplied to the plugs via Ford EDIS-6 from a Ford Exploder, coil pack is Dodge Intrepid, crank trigger is Ford Escort 36-1 wheel and VR sensor. NO MORE DISTRIBUTOR!!! My lap top provides complete timing control. At any engine vacuum and RPM point in the engine operating range, I can input the EXACT number of degrees I want the ignition timing to be and WA LA! I can even make these changes on the fly while the engine is running. As soon as I push the button, the timing is changed, that quick. No springs or weights to play with. Just a click of the touch pad and a whole new ignition timing curve of any shape or configuration I can conjure up is controlling the spark plugs. YEE HAAA…To keep the detonation demons away, AV gas in the form of 100 Low Lead is delivered to the air stream via 6 Chevy C-4 Corvette injectors. The manifold and fuel rail were machined in house to accept the modern O-ring style injectors. As mentioned above, this is a MILD N/A L-28. A great combination for a nice custom N/A L-28 powered street car. We are looking forward to installing one of our Rebello ground .520” lift cams this winter and we plan to modify the IR intake pictured below for EFI injectors, (it used to be a mechanical injection manifold for L-6 powered race boats). This intake and cam should compliment the car’s intended purpose with a little more authority than its current configuration. Details of the project during the MS conversion with more pics can be seen at… http://www.msruns.com/viewtopic.php?f=95&t=15436 Current MS set up… The car…. The dash.. The “EX” induction…. Current induction…. Next years induction….

Yeup. What Z-gad said… Some years ago we converted an E-88 and a couple of L-4 heads for EFI, but that was many moon ago. Requires machining the injector slots, drill and tap the 4 manifold mounting holes and it is ready for EFI. Now days, for the L-6 crowd any how, it is usually cheaper to just buy a used EFI head and bolt it on. In some instances, the EFI head is more desirable as well, i.e. combustion chamber shape and port config, depending on the pistons and the intended goals for that car…. For you L-24 guys, especially if performance is important to you, the late Maxima N-47 head is PERFECT!!! I do know that the ’81-84’ Maximas, (and yes, Nissan did produce the L-24E in ’84), had the right head, not sure about the earlier models… The MN-47 already has the all the mounting holes, has those nice flowing round exhaust ports, and hands down, THE best combustion chamber shape of ANY L-series 6 cylinder head cast. The only way to do better from a combustion chamber standpoint is to weld up your E-88 chamber, or an N-42, or Z N-47 chamber. Of course this is from an all out performance stand point. This pic is of one our custom MN-47 heads destined for a hot street L-28. For an L-24, we would not remove as much material from around the spark plug boss.