BRAAP

That spark plug is NOT a Bosch Platinum 4. It is a NGK spark bolt, part number BPR6EQ13, which is no longer in production. As for Platinum spark plugs, for older engines running older fuel systems, even the OE Hitachi L-jet, I prefer not to run Platinum plugs as they are finicky when it comes to consistent fuel mixtures. They work fine IF the mixture is perfect but will foul easily if the mixture isn’t perfect. The current crop of modern multi valve engines with their very sophisticated and consistent engine management systems seem to run the platinum’s just fine. Every time I post that picture of the MN-47 with the NGK multi-electrode plug in it, someone posts about how there is NO benefit to multi electrode spark plugs, so I’ll just cover that ahead of time... Multi ground electrode spark plugs do not offer ANY offer any performance gain over standard plugs IF the air fuel mixture in the combustion chamber can get to the spark in the first place. Also, for some unknown reason, a myth started about Multi-electrode plugs. That myth being that these multi electrode plugs are able to spark simultaneously from more than one electrode… NOT!!! They will “not” spark from more than one electrode at the same time. It will only spark between the center electrode and “one” of the ground electrodes during each spark event. Due to the flow of the air fuel mixture surrounding the spark plug, if there is chance the volatile air fuel mixture doesn’t make it between the ground and center electrode of any style spark plug, the mixture wont ignite, i.e. misfire. This is the reason I chose to run those plugs, for their unshrouded spark, i.e. the spark is more exposed to the combustion chamber. It can be argued as to whether or not my reasoning has any merit in regards to the L-series as there are plenty of L-series making HUGE power utilizing standard design spark bolts. The multi-electrode plugs do unshroud the spark itself, and in my mind, allows for a greater chance of that air fuel mixture to get in between the spark gap and become ignited. Did these plugs actually improve the performance? Dunno, I never did any back to back dyno testing. I don’t trust my butt dyno enough to say yes they helped or not they didn’t. FWIW, we just acquired a sample set of BRISK spark plugs and we will be performing some back to back dyno testing in our N/A L-28 powered race car. I have yet to find where BRISK plugs weren’t a benefit of some sort, other than the cost, and their design is rather unconventional, but they also claim the benefit of a less shrouded spark which means less misfires and more consistent and even combustion events. If we can measure or feel a gain with these new fangled plugs, we will be a dealer. Whew.. Now we return you to your regularly scheduled “E-88 converted to EFI”, thread…

Very cool. Looks a like a true grass roots bare bones approach to producing mass power. When it comes to building power, whether it be N/A or boosted, I really appreciate the “purpose built, non show”, approach. The pics of your build exemplify that quite well. No showy fancy dancy high dime parts, only what is needed to make big power. Big cylinder head ports, big intake manifold, big throttle valve, big turbo, big exhaust manifold, big injectors, etc. We are looking forward to reading some big power numbers and big trap speeds at the strip to match those big parts… FWIW, It wouldn’t surprise me if after your beast is all dialed in, and I mean totally dialed in, fuel and ignition, that you could make as much as 400 HP to the wheels, with over 450 lbs of torque…. The PINKS boys hit 390 HP at 21 pounds of boost and that was at only 4900 RPM!!! That much boost with the HP peak at 5500+ RPM is well over 400+ HP…… Keep us posted…

It runs and drives. I now have approx 2 hours time on the car with MS controlling the fuel and distributor-LESS spark on our N/A L-28 powered 240-Z race car. It currently runs as strong as it did with the triples before I sold the carbs, and there is still quite a bit of tuning left, (in all fairness, the triples were pretty far out of tune when I acquired the car. I’m sure if both were tuned to optimum, if there is a difference in performance, the nod would go towards the triples.) THE CAR… This car started life as a track day car. Now its life will be spent locally pulling “F” prepared SOLO-II duty with some track days thrown in for fun. The car is a ’73 240-Z powered by a mild L-28 that I personally machined, balanced, ported, and built some 6 years ago for my good friend Vern Littrel when he owned the car. Vern built the car and chassis. He put only 4 hours on the car at track days, got into street rods and let the Z sit for 5+ years. My wife heard through the grape vine that he was selling the Race Z, so behind my back, (the nerve of some women….) she bought the car for me as a surprise. All of our family and friends knew all along what she was up to, except me. She kept this secret for over 4 months. Any how, a little over a year ago, she surprised me with the car, (I am truly a BLESSED man…), and now I owe her BIG TIME!!!! The transmission is a late model ZX 5 speed, flywheel is one of my custom lightened 225 MM Z flywheels, clutch is a Center force II. The diff is a Suby 3.90 Limited Slip R-160. The car has a pseudo full cage, fire wall back. The front half will get caged sometime in the future. One weekend I decided to build a new dash for the car and the pic below is the result. It definitely could use some refinement, but it works. The dash is made from sheet stainless painted with black wrinkle paint and attached over the OE 240 dash skeleton. The starter is engaged by a brand new Honda S-2000 start button, all vitals are monitored via Autometer gauges, a Kirky driver seat keeps the driver in place at speed, a baja style fiberglass passenger seat is for whoever is brave enough to get in with me or my wife, whoever is driving at the time. Bumps are damped with Tokico 5 ways in sectioned struts, Ground control camber plates allow for some adjustment both front and rear, Ground control coil overs front and rear, Energy poly bushings through out the car. Future chassis development consists of the T/C rod bushings will be converted to Ball sockets attached to a Hiem located LCA, Tokicos will be swapped out in favor of Advance Design cartridges valved for much stiffer springs. Tires are Formula Atlantic road racing tires, 13”x10” up front and MONSTER 13”x13” out back! THE ENGINE… The engine is a mild L-28. Pistons are OE Flat tops, the rotating and reciprocating assy were balanced, ARP main studs hold the crank in the block, ARP rod bolts keep the rods attached to the crank, Hastings rings keep the pressure on top of the piston and oil below them, and a turbo oil pump keeps the whole mess well lubed. Top end is one of my custom Maxima N-47 heads, (i.e. lots of valve unshrouding and 1.73” intake valves installed). This super whiz bang head is held down to the block with ARP head studs and a mild Schneider .480” lift bump stick opens the valves. The engine ingests all of its air through an OE non-egr N-42 intake manifold cleaned up for aesthetics and port matched. The throttle valve is a 60mm butterfly and as I’m told, came from a Sentra SE-R. The spent gasses are expelled through a MSA 6-1 header, the rest of the exhaust is a single 2.25” exhaust exhaling the spent gasses. MEGA SQUIRT!!!!! Engine management consists of MS-I, v-3.0 built by RS-Autosport running MSnS-E 025 currently, (possibly getting upgraded to 029q2 in the near future). This is the part I like most. Spark is supplied to the plugs via Ford EDIS-6 from a Ford Exploder, coil pack is Dodge Intrepid, crank trigger is Ford Escort 36-1 wheel and VR sensor. NO MORE DISTRIBUTOR!!! My lap top provides complete timing control. At any engine vacuum and RPM point in the engine operating range, I can input the EXACT number of degrees I want the ignition timing to be and WA LA! I can even make these changes on the fly while the engine is running. As soon as I push the button, the timing is changed, that quick. No springs or weights to play with. Just a click of the touch pad and a whole new ignition timing curve of any shape or configuration I can conjure up is controlling the spark plugs. YEE HAAA…To keep the detonation demons away, AV gas in the form of 100 Low Lead is delivered to the air stream via 6 Chevy C-4 Corvette injectors. The manifold and fuel rail were machined in house to accept the modern O-ring style injectors. As mentioned above, this is a MILD N/A L-28. A great combination for a nice custom N/A L-28 powered street car. We are looking forward to installing one of our Rebello ground .520” lift cams this winter and we plan to modify the IR intake pictured below for EFI injectors, (it used to be a mechanical injection manifold for L-6 powered race boats). This intake and cam should compliment the car’s intended purpose with a little more authority than its current configuration. Details of the project during the MS conversion with more pics can be seen at… http://www.msruns.com/viewtopic.php?f=95&t=15436 Current MS set up… The car…. The dash.. The “EX” induction…. Current induction…. Next years induction….

Yeup. What Z-gad said… Some years ago we converted an E-88 and a couple of L-4 heads for EFI, but that was many moon ago. Requires machining the injector slots, drill and tap the 4 manifold mounting holes and it is ready for EFI. Now days, for the L-6 crowd any how, it is usually cheaper to just buy a used EFI head and bolt it on. In some instances, the EFI head is more desirable as well, i.e. combustion chamber shape and port config, depending on the pistons and the intended goals for that car…. For you L-24 guys, especially if performance is important to you, the late Maxima N-47 head is PERFECT!!! I do know that the ’81-84’ Maximas, (and yes, Nissan did produce the L-24E in ’84), had the right head, not sure about the earlier models… The MN-47 already has the all the mounting holes, has those nice flowing round exhaust ports, and hands down, THE best combustion chamber shape of ANY L-series 6 cylinder head cast. The only way to do better from a combustion chamber standpoint is to weld up your E-88 chamber, or an N-42, or Z N-47 chamber. Of course this is from an all out performance stand point. This pic is of one our custom MN-47 heads destined for a hot street L-28. For an L-24, we would not remove as much material from around the spark plug boss.

Thank you for your input Brad-Man. Your sport bike coil set up sounds like a great set up. Looking forward to hearing more about it as you progress.

Ok, that makes a little more sense. Thank you for clarifying. So you want to use your Optical trigger to run the EDIS ignition instead of the OE ford 36-1 and VR sensor, (for what its worth, EDIS uses a VR sensor, not “hall effect”. They are different). This is an intriguing concept. I’m not sure how the EDIS module would interpret that signal or if it even could. Below is a picture of the signal of an OE EDIS 36-1 and VR sensor captured on Ron’s Fluke “O” scope on our EDIS Test Bench. This picture captured the missing tooth as well. I do know that the EDIS module will still operate with a signal that is somewhat skewed from this signal, but I’m not sure how skewed the signal can be before the EDIS Module can’t interpret it anymore. I’m sure the optical signal doesn’t look like the VR signal pictured below, in fact, I would guess the optical signal would be more of a square wave, much like a hall effect signal. You might search the MS-EFI-EDIS forum to see if anyone has done any tinkering with optical triggers for EDIS. I personally would love to test optical triggers and “hall effect” triggers with EDIS on our Test bench, but we won’t have the time to run the Test Bench again till this winter.

Mack-daddy, How you doing buddy. You are on the right track in regards to tooth count in the dizzy. If you want your EDIS trigger to be in the DIZZY or even on the cam, it will need to be a 72-2 tooth wheel. As for using paint to fill in the gaps? If I understand your idea, you want to use “paint” to fill in the extra gaps in the 360 tooth wheel that you have currently so that EDIS will register 36-1 teeth for every crank revolution, (i.e. in the dizzy, 72-2 tooth count). Sorry, but that won’t work. The trigger is magnetic. Paint will not fool the EDIS module. You can take a 36-1 wheel and fill in all the gaps with paint, epoxy, fiber glass, or even aluminum, and the EDIS will still run just fine. In other words, the paint wont fool the EDIS module into thinking those gaps don’t exist. You will need a 72-2 wheel made of ferrous material if you want it in the dizzy or on the cam, or a 36-1 wheel made of ferrous material on the crank. We built a nice little EDIS test bench and posted all of test results with detailed pics thus far. If you haven’t seen it, you might read through it as it should help shed some light on the EDIS system as a whole and what it takes for it operate. That thread can be viewed here… http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=14920 Also, this thread started by Z-ya Pete, has some valuable info as well, if you haven’t seen it yet.. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781

It was nice show. Lots of great Z’s, 510’s and Roadsters.

Sorry for going so far off Hybrid topic here, but this topic is just way to cool… BOY HOWDY!!! I’ve seen that engine run in person at the P.R.I.M.E. shows here in Oregon over past few years. Ken is the same builder of the Blown V-8 with wine glasses picture below. Guys from all over the country attend the P.R.I.M.E. show to show off their scratch built miniature running engines. Everything from single cylinder hit and miss, Steam, to blown V-8’s and even home made Gas Turbines!!!. There is a an air cooled VW replica that even has that chirp sound when it runs, an Allison V-12, a few Radial engines, four cylinders, V-twins, and lots of single cylinders. Mostly these guys are retired machinists and they spend their days scratch building miniature engines. Everything from the pistons, cranks, cams, valves, even the valve springs they wind themselves. Most of them will tell you that the spark plugs and piston rings are the hardest parts to manufacture themselves. Most of them just by miniature NGK or Champion plugs. Also, piston rings are typically cast iron rings from Automatic transmissions. There is a very common 1” inch diameter ring available from Auto trannies, so most guys will build their pistons around those rings. Some of them even go so far as to cast their own blocks, pistons, intake manifolds EXACTLY replicating OE engines such as the SBC picture below, with its casting molds. Over the years of attending these shows, I’ve taken hundreds of pictures and some VHS video. Here are just a few of those pics …

The easiest way to describe the sound and firing pulse differences between the single plane and dual plane V-8 cranks is this. Think of the American V-8, (dual plane cranks), as “four” V-twin engines on one crankshaft. Now think of the single plane V-8 crank, (Ferrari), as “two” inline four cylinder engines on one crankshaft. Every notice how Harley V-twins and American V-8s sound similar? Also, for anyone that has ever heard a Ferrari V-8 or any other single plane cranked V-8, how it sounds much like a high strung four cylinder… The revised firing order that accompanies a single plane V-8 crank gives the engine a BRAAP exhaust note vs the dual plane crank RUMBLE. The physical design of the crank is such that when you look down along the crank from the nose, the dual plane crank, the rod pins make a “+” (the crank throws are on two separate planes), where as the single plane is a “-“, (all the crank pins and main journals are on the same plane), hence the terms “dual plane” and “single plane”. Also, the single plane crank carries with it the inherent annoying buzzyness that your typical inline four cylinder has. The larger the displacement, the more exaggerated this “buzziness” is. Has to do with 2nd, 3rd, or 4th order harmonics, I forget which, It’s been so long ago when I was researching single plane cranks for a personal V-8 project, (still want to build one…). I am not positive, but I’m pretty sure that a couple NASCAR teams even played with single plane cranks at some point in the mid to late 90’s. Benefits of the single plane crank at that level of performance is exhaust pulse tuning with out criss-crossing headers, i.e. standard style headers. Dual plane crank V-8’s can accomplish the same exhaust pulse tuning characteristics by using “180 degree” headers as used on the Ford GT-40 and I’ve even seen few Panteras running as well. These tend be very long primary tubes and depending on available real-estate under the bonnet can be quite ornate. The middle two cylinders of one bank pair up with the outer two cylinder of the opposing bank and vice versa. This made for some very intricate header designs as seen in the accompanying pictures. I’ve been wanting to build a SBC using a single plane crank since the mid ‘90’s for one of my Z cars. I’m willing to tolerate the added buzzyness just to get that exhaust note. I can appreciate the domestic V-8 rumble, I’ve owned and built a couple V-8s Z cars, but that rumble just doesn’t stir my soul the same way a 6 cylinder, 12 cylinder, single plane V-8 or even a VERY high revving four cylinder, (sport bikes), do. Every time I hear a 6 cylinder, V-12 or a flat crank V-8 fire up, it sends a chill up and down my spine. Even after all these years building and tuning L-series Z cars, even firing off our own L-28 race car gives me goose bumps. The exhaust note is intoxicating and befitting a “sports car” in the pure sense of the word. Not too mention, at the stop light grand-prix, the unsuspecting victim will think it is a just a wimpy little import engine with that silky smooth exhaust note… here are a couple articles with pictures touching on the 180 degree header design… http://home.alltel.net/bsprowl/Exhaust/180FEHeaders.htm http://www.ssheaders.com/header.htm Here are some 180 degree headers… BRAAAP….BRAAAAAAAAAAP….BRAAAaaaaaa…….

I just fired up my MSnS-EDIS controlled N/A L-28 race car last weekend. My impression so far is I will NEVER go back to distributors again!!! DIS compared to Dizzy ignitions systems is like EFI compared to Carbs. It could be argued that there is no noticeable performance gain with today’s high tech computerized engine management, but the ability to tune at pin point MAP and RPM bins without affecting the rest of the fuel or spark curve is something that can NOT be done with carbs or mechanical and vacuum advances in a dizzy. Also, when you make changes to the fuel curve or ignition curve with EFI and DIS, your hands don’t smell like GAS all night or end up covered in Grease AND, you can make the adjustments REAL time on the fly, Not have to get out and take a dizzy or carb apart to make adjustments. Ok, in my not so humble opinion, those are the BIG reasons why I prefer EDIS over dizzy ignition. Good luck, Details and pics of our MSnS-EDIS project can be seen at these links… http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=15436 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781 http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=14920

Ah, yes, I stand corrected. I apologize for muddying the waters. When locating TDC using the piston stop, you will need to rotate the engine backwards. Sorry about that Isk. The piston stop should have a hole through the middle of it to allow air to escape and enter the cylinder as the piston travels through its stroke with the valves closed. Also, remove the rest of the spark plugs and that will allow the engine to rotate easier as well, hopefully enough that it wont loosen your crank damper bolt. Also, you could remove all the rocker arms except for cylinder number one and that will take some of the resistance away while rotating the crank. Sorry for confusion and good luck with getting your dial indicator set up…

Isk, First off, there is no need to rotate your engine backwards and for degreeing the cam, you should NOT rotate the engine backwards. Rotating the engine backwards while degreeing your cam will not only loosen the crank bolt if it isn’t tight enough, but will totally change the cam timing in relation to the crankshaft as the tension side of the timing chain then becomes slack which essentially advances the cam giving you totally erroneous values. Just rotate the crankshaft clock wise for EACH and EVERY time that you need to rotate the crank. As mentioned in the “how to degree your cam” sticky here in the L-6 forum, always rotate the engine in the direction it rotates while running which just happens to be clockwise as viewed from the front. This will keep that bolt from coming loose and help keep the cam timing where it would be as if the engine was running, which is what we are checking right? Cam timing as the engine is running? As for which cam you might have? If you have a dial caliper or digital caliper handy, you can measure the cam lobe lift. This is how to do that. Measure the cam lobe across the nose, note that measurement, then measure the lobe across the base circle which will give the smallest measurement and make note of that. Now subtract the base circle measurement from the lobe measurement and that will be your “cam lobe lift”. Now take that “lobe lift” number and subtract your valve lash, (OE cams, it is .010” for intake and .012” for exhaust, aftermarket cams are different, but typically .008”-.010” is common). Now take this new number and multiply it by 1.5, which is what the rocker ratio is supposed to be for L-series engines, (it isn’t exactly 1.5, but 1.5 is close enough to give you an idea of what lift this cam will deliver). That will be your valve lift. If it is anywhere near the .477”-.483” range in your calculations, then you more than likely have the first cam you listed, or at least one with similar specs in regards to lift and duration. Hope this helps… Good luck

I am running AV-gas in the car, and no “audible” indication of any excess timing or compression… (at least that I can hear…) BTW, I spent about and hour on the back roads around our place last night tuning it some more. Runs pretty good, but still a long way off from ideal. The resets are VERY troublesome and at idle will kill the engine and flood it causing it to hydraulic lock when cranking for restart!! ARRGH!!! Scared the crap out of me the first time it happened. I though the timing chain broke or a rod let go when the starter just locked up about half way through a revolution. Any how, with the alternator disconnected, the MS still resets at RPMs below 1500, but not as severally. With the alternator hooked up and a capacitor on the alternator, it resets less often above 1500 than it did without the capacitor but it still resets HUGE below 1500 RPM, and only once in a great while above 2000 RPM. Any how, I will be ordering a line conditioner for the power wire for the MS controller. I’m told that will solve the MS “reset” issue.. See you guys at Canby..

BAD Paul… I couldn’t help myself. All day I had been day dreaming of inputting some new fuel and spark settings, so I came up with off the cuff ignition map and off the cuff fuel map for the car, wrote them down, and then inserted those settings, (see pics). We ”think” these injectors are 21 lb/hr, but not sure yet. WOW! What a diff a total guess at fuel and spark settings made. I grabbed Ron Tyler and made him get in the passenger seat and we headed out for a quick jaunt. The car now accelerates similar to how it did with the Triple Weber carbs, part throttle is still a bit sketchy, idle is little raw and the RESETS are really annoying. Any how, while out on this test drive, a brand new Mini Cooper drove by while we were going to make left hand turn and come back to the shop, and this little Mini was taunting us. I succumbed. (BAD Paul….) Ron reminded me that I only had some cheapo BFG Comp T/A’s on the Panasports (street tires for tuning MS on our rural back roads), and not the slicks, I just smiled and rowed the shifter. Mind you, if you’ve ever been out to our shop, it is a 4.5 mile trip up AND down tight twisty curves, 2 of them 180 degree hair pins, lots of 1st and 2nd gear turns, a couple 3rd gear straights and over 200 feet of elevation change. The poor little Mini tried and tried to get away, but no dice. (I don’t think he knew he was up against a race car). Even running a “guess” fuel map, we couldn’t use full throttle without running over that little Mini. We were playing a bit doing some drifting at almost full opposite lock on a few of the corners and still gaining on the Mini. There is LOTS more power left. Any how, if the RESETS can be fixed, this could prove to be a decently powerful N/A setup.

Ok guys, I can’t bite my tongue any longer Two degrees difference in exhaust valve duration won’t make SQUAT difference, as felt seat of the pants. Yes, it will make a difference that can be read on a dyno, but that difference will be SO small that even the most anal driver on this forum would NOT be able to feel the difference in the seat of his/her pants. If this were an engine for the IRL, NASCAR, or Top Fuel, then yes, maybe squabbling with the cam grinder over a measly 2 degrees duration would be justified, but not over a Datsun L-series cam? If someone is dead set on taking some national level championship with his L-series Z car and was spending tens of thousands of dollars on that car in an effort to build that car to a very specific level, then I would say go ahead and pitch a bitch, but for a hot street car or even a part time racer, 2 degrees duration isn’t going to cause you to loose the race. No ones driving skills on this forum are THAT good!!! Our driving skills have WAY more affect on the outcome of a race than a measly 2 degrees exhaust valve duration. As for this measly 2 degrees possibly being the PINKs cars power issue, HOSRE PUCKY!!! Their HP peak came in at 4900 RPM. The HP peak should be in at least by 5700 RPM, more like 6000-6500 RPM. That is a HUGE discrepancy and for the LAST TIME GUYS!!! If that discrepancy is cam timing related, it would be something like 10+ degrees off, or a “tooth” off on the timing gear, not a measly 2, 4, or even 8 degrees! There is something else causing their lack or RPM!!!! Now as for the overlap issue, (this is where the gripe “might” be justified), generally speaking, high performance Turbo cams are ground with wider lobe separation, i.e. less overlap. I haven’t ran the numbers on this particular cam and don’t have time this evening, but if memory serves, that ISkY cam “should” be ground on 114 LCA which is a “wide” lobe separation with little valve overlap, i.e. good cam in a Turbo application. Now if it is ground with 106-109 LCA, then it would make great “off boost” power and even reduce lag at the expense of top end “boosted” power. Being as the PINKs car has such a drastic discrepancy in where the peak HP is vs where it should’ve come in, I strongly believe there is something else wrong, i.e. ignition. I honestly feel the PINKs issue is ignition related. I just read here in the PINKs forum where their MSD ignition box is inoperative now and the car wont even run!!! I haven’t been present to see, hear, or tune that engine, but based solely on what I’ve read thus far, it definitely sounds like an ignition issue, NOT a cam issue! Next would be the fuel map because they could never get the mixture correct on the top end as the ignition wouldn’t light the darn fire in the first place!!! MSD products are excellent, WHEN they work. We at Rusch Motorsports will NOT sell or endorse MSD components because of their poor reliability. Functionally, MSD is great and we would love to offer their products but because of their poor dependability, we don't. I have seen many a MSD coil and 6A box fail in all sorts of ways leaving the driver stranded. It even happened on an episode of PINKS in the middle of a race for crying out loud… Ok, I’m now stepping off my soap box and going to bed. Good night guys,

My father, Ron Ruschman, is who originally built that RB 440 powered ’77 280-Z. He used a TF 727 trans with a manual shift body, welded R-200 diff, coil overs up front, custom double pass radiator, etc. etc. etc.. Mom told him he couldn’t keep the Big Block Z any more so I ended up with it and being as that is not my first choice for a hybrid Z, I sold it. Here are just a few pics of that Z while it was in my possession. I have TONS more including detail pics of the engine bay throughout the conversion process, (Dad would send them to me as he progressed.) I would be more than happy to burn them to a CD and mail them to you if you’ll E-mail me at braapZ350@hotmail.com with your mailing address. Here are some of those pics…. YEE HAAA…. Big Block Torque!!! Manul shift body, power brake in 2nd gear…

Cary, The rest of this week I REALLY need to stay focused on Customer projects and I REALLY want to take the car to the Datsun Canby event on Sunday. Being as it does start, idle and can move under its own power in its current state, (if it isn’t broke, don’t fix it, …yet..) I wont make any more changes to the state of tune till after the big Datsun Canby show on Sunday. As for making to race events, depending on how far I get with tuning, I am hoping to make the 5th, 6th, 7th and 8th EESCC events to use as shake down runs and would like to also make the Enduro Cross for more tuning and seat time, not ready to compete with it yet. A lot of “ifs” between now then. New firmware with no bugs, air cleaner, brake master cylinder, and coarse tuning of the fuel and spark maps… Fingers crossed….