BRAAP

Here is a picture of a 60mm TB bolted to custom non EGR N-42 intake. I flipped the throttle valve upside down and then carved on it so it would cosmetically match the intake manifold itself when bolted up. Hope this helps…

Yasin, Those rockers sold by MSA should be just fine. MSA buys their rockers from the same supplier that we use, and those “should” be actual Nissan rockers, even though they may not be “bagged” with Nissan part numbers, (though they might be). If they visually resemble Nissan Rockers, you are totally safe and should have no worries. If they resemble the wide and balky Ford Pinto style rockers, those are the bad ones. As for your wipe pattern, no need to adjust. The .170 will be just fine. Truth be told, based on your pics, you could even safely get away with .160, my public mentioning of .170 being the limit was conservative allowing for other factors such as wear, etc. You could theoretically go out to the very edge of the rocker, but that would be getting greedy for pretty much no gain and chance inducing unwanted valve train noise as well. In short, your .170 lash pads look just fine. HTH

You can purchase a pre assembled Mega Squirt already set up and configured for everything that you will need, i.e. Tacho output pin, EDIS ignition, and even control the electric cooling fan for the radiator. I purchased my Mega Squirt already assembled from RS Autosport and the craftsmanship is first rate, (solder joints look nicer than the OE Datsun EFI stuff). DIY Auto tune also offers fully assembled systems and everyone that I’ve talked to including my partner Ron Tyler who had DIY do some work on his Mega Squirt, have had nothing but praise for their craftsmanship and customer service. When digging for EDIS parts in the wrecking yard, from a Ford Exploder or Windstar with the V-6, you will need the “control module” and the “coil pack”. The control module will say EDIS-6 on it. This will be the EDIS-6 system which will work on pretty much any 6 cylinder engine, inline or V-6. (EDIS-4 for 4 cylinders, EDIS-8 for 8 cylinder engines.) From a Ford Escort, (4 cylinder, 1.9L, ) pull the damper and the VR sensor. That is what I used. You can use ANY 36-1 wheel from ANY Ford vehicle, just make sure you also get its matching VR sensor as the 36-1 crank trigger wheel and VR sensor ARE matched. For more details about this and other good tidbits of EDIS info I encourage you ALL to please read through our EDIS Test Bench thread linked below. LOTS of good technical information regarding the Ford EDIS ignition that will help anyone wanting use the Ford EDIS set up. There are also some great extended exposure pictures the EDIS system running on our test bench http://www.msextra.com/viewtopic.php?t=14920

As Veritech stated, the intake I first pictured, (gray one with the 60mm throttle valve as used on our race car), I did tap the holes and installed brass pipe plugs, ground them down, filled all divots and crevices with JB weld, then just painted the manifold with “Cast Blast” paint, color is cast Iron gray. (see the “in process” pics below). The intake pictured in the mid Engine Z project had all of its holes welded so that it could be ceramic coated. I am currently modifying another N-42 intake in the same manner for ceramic coating, but minus the throttle linkage towers and machined for O-ring injectors like our Race car intake.

Hmmm… Factory ’77 Z cars came with the N-47 head which has a round EXHAUST port WITH liners. As far as I am aware of, Nissan did not offer a round EXHAUST port L-6 head without the liners on production cars. Either you are looking at the intake ports of an N-42 head, (square EXHAUST ports), you just didn’t see the liner, (previous owner could of removed the liners, but not likely), or you have a VERY rare and exotic L-series cylinder head that requires you immediately remove that cylinder head, carefully package it up and ship it directly me here at Rusch Motorsports for further LONG TERM inspection, testing, and evaluation… If the latter, let me know I’ll give you our shipping address…

Drax, If you set up many cams, you may as well just purchase a complete set of the available lash pads as it will expedite cam set up time. If you don’t want to purchase all of them, then for starters, I would get.150-.220 which should get you by for 90% of the street and mild to moderate race cam set ups you will run across. If you need to set up a cam that needs thicker than .220, you can always just snip pieces of .010”, .020” and .030” feeler gauges/shim stock and just stuff those pieces between the lash pad and valve stem itself. Feeler gauges are pretty cheap, under $5 for set of Craftsman, or keep a sharp eye at garage sales.

Yasin, Sorry, there is no PM from you in my inbox. Try E-mailing me… braapZ350@hotmail.com

Please don’t be sorry for your questions. That is what this forum is all about. Asking questions and sharing our experiences so that others may benefit and build upon our experiences. For the EDIS to work with Mega Squirt you will need all the parts in the bottom pic I posted. 1) Control module. 2) 36-1 trigger wheel to mounted on the crank. 3) VR sensor to read the 36-1 wheel. 4) and the coil pack. Once you have acquired and installed those items, I “think” the programming portion within Mega squirt might be easier for the EDIS than it is for the Dizzy configuration, though I have no “actual” experience using a Dizzy with Mega Squirt on an L-series, so this is just my guess at this point….

We get our lash pads directly from Nissan/Nissan Motorsports. We use only genuine Nissan L-series rockers as well. The rockers we supply with our cam kits are brand new “NISSAN” Rockers. There are some aftermarket NON Nissan rockers that should be avoided at all cost. Those NON Nissan rockers look similar to the Ford Pinto style rockers and are garbage. They will wipe out a cam in very short order. I have spent many an hour on the phone with Dave Rebello of Rebello racing engines, and both he and I are on the same page in regards to L-series cams and rockers. We both agree that used NISSAN L-series rockers are just fine with new cams even if they are from a different engine, as long as the rockers are in good shape, i.e. no divots or noticeable visual wear. This only applies to NISSAN rockers, not aftermarket rockers. We both have seen some reground Nissan rockers that we would never run our engines, so beware of some reground rockers. If you plan to reuse used rockers, just buff the wiping surface and the tip surface and you are good to go. Dave even uses used rockers on his full tilt GT race engines and claims ZERO cam/rocker failures! No matter anyone else’s opinion on this subject, the fact that Dave Rebello uses used rockers on his full tilt GT race engines with ZERO failures should be testimony enough! As long as the wiping pattern is checked and there is adequate oil supply to the rocker-cam interface and the rocker wiping surface is in “good” condition, AND the cam is a known good quality core, (typically new Nissan cores or reground NISSAN cores fall into this category, aftermarket cams are hit and miss in regards to durability), you will have no troubles even with big lift cams using really stiff valve springs. FWIW, with all of our cam kits that we sell, we include brand new Nissan Rockers. For my own personal L-series, engines, I just dig through my used rocker stash, (just as Dave Rebello does for his GT race engines, so don’t throw away your old rockers. If they are in good shape, Dave Rebello and myself will take them off your hands…), but for our customers who purchase a cam with their custom Rusch Motorsports L-series cylinder head, we include brand new Nissan Rockers. For our cams, we use Rebello reground NISSAN cams for our cam kits. We use new rockers in our cam kits not because the “new” rockers are better, but because it gives the customer the piece of mind that their rockers are new. For some, that makes all the difference. Hope that helps, Paul Ruschman Rusch Motorsports

Okie dokie, just one more… This one, installed on my partners L-28ET with the engine set WAY back in the chassis, shown here in its raw aluminum stage just prior to getting ceramic coated.

Ditto what Pete said. I’m also sporting the 2nd option with NO distributor. MSnS-E, v-3.0 running a Ford EDIS module from an Exploder, coil pack from a Dodge Intrepid, VR sensor and 36-1 tooth wheel from an Escort… Runs great…

I couldn't of said it better, (or at least in fewer words.. LOL)

Yasin, Glad we were able to help out. The wipe pattern looks great. In looking at your margin on the back side of the rocker, the .170 pad is as far as I’d push the wipe pattern for a street engine. Just make sure and check that the rest of the rockers have similar patterns, and if they do not, just juggle lash pad thickness so that they all end up having similar wipe patterns. Take care, Paul Ruschman

So you “need” 10:1 comp ratio in your L-series eh? You are planning to run at least AV gas or race fuel right? Off the top of my head, I don’t know how much material needs to be shaved from the E-88 for a flat top piston L-24 to achieve that comp ratio, but if it ends up retaining its open chamber design, it will rattle like a Dodge Cummins even with 92 Octane premium. If you are planning to run race gas, then why not take full advantage of the fuels detonation resistance and run 12-13:1? If you are planning to run pump gas, do yourself a HUGE favor. What “little” power gain would be had by raising the comp ratio to 10.1, will be lost and even more power lost due to the amount of ignition timing you will have to back out to keep it from rattling. If the E-88 head is your only option with pump gas, leave the comp ratio alone where it is and spend your money on chamber reshaping, mild port work, mild cam, free flowing exhaust, lightened flywheel, quality ignition parts, etc. The Datsun L-series with open chamber heads or dished piston does NOT like even 9.5:1 on pump gas. Good luck, Paul Ruschman

Cam selection for multi valve engines is a little different than for a 2 valve design, well at least the lift and duration specs are different for a given power band on similar displacement 4v vs 2v designs. Sorry I couldn’t be of much help on this one… You might try the S-13/14 forums. There has to be an S-13/14 forum out there that has a few “honest” knowledgeable KA24DE guys on it?... Good luck…

Yasin, Sure did. It was nice talking with you again. Glad we could be of assistance.

JSM pretty much covered it. Any more angles than 3 is pretty much splitting hairs. Since every single head that goes through our shop gets multi angle seat work, we will only cut 3 angles if the customer request this, otherwise we try and give them 5 angles but sometimes the intake or exhaust seat may only get 4 angles, other variables at work for different applications dictates that. In the near future we will be offering radius seat work which offers the ideal seat geometry, but again, n a mild street engine on the dyno, the power gains will be negligible at best. The multi angle seat work is just one of those “attention to detail” items that most high end shops cover to give their customers every last bit of performance.

Yasin, Glad we could help. If you need anything else, just let us know.

Yeah, that is the back side. The back side is a little easier to mark yet harder to read once installed, i.e. be a contortionist bent around the front of the engine with the little mechanics mirror or from underneath the car using a little mechanics mirror. The front side would be easier to read, but is a little tougher to get the marks lined up and as close to each other as possible. I think Mortensen is alluding to the fact that marking the front would be a more ideal approach and I’d have to agree.

Uh,.. hmmm.. well.. “How do you set the timing without a timing light?” Sorry to be the bearer of bad news here but there is no real way to actually KNOW where your ignition timing will be within 10-15 degrees or so without using an actual timing light. You can get it within 10-20 degrees of the desired fire off point, but that is it. You may even get lucky and get it set right where you wanted it though the odds are not in your favor. Sorry. You need a timing light, even you have to borrow one. That is the only way to verify your ignition timing is ANYWHERE close to where it needs/you want it to be. Good luck

Pete, GREAT pics. Thanks. It sounds like your ground electrodes possibly got so hot they were essentially melting and depending on which way the ground electrode was facing, up or down, (plug index), dictated which way the ground electrode “fell” as it went elastic. If this is the case, you’ll need colder spark plugs. You should be running at least a 7 or an 8 heat range in NGK speak. If the ground electrodes did get so hot they were essentially melting, 2 heat ranges colder would be a good starting point. Of course, with a much colder plug, that means all the time the engine is running and you are NOT working the engine, the plugs will be carbon fouling as they won’t be in their heat range till you have been standing on it for period of time.

Oliver, In regards to “looking” for cracks the crank would need to come out any way, so in that case, just have a machine shop magnaflux it as the mag will detect cracks that we can’t see. Looking at your pics of the damper, there is a good chance that your crank is ok. It looks as though the rubber is just “starting” to fail, so the inertia ring should still be damping at least a little bit. Definitely swap it out for a known good one and if you install a used one, witness mark it. I just use a chisel to witness mark as it wont rub off. Good luck,

By using a thinner lash pad “AND” maintaining the recommended lash clearance, that will automatically raise the rocker pivot to achieve that same valve lash adjustment. I.e., to retain the same lash clearance at the cam, a thinner lash pad means a raised pivot, and vice versa.

Yes. It is smearing, (a downside of the Prussian blue, just make it a real thin coat or use a sharpie as Mortensen suggested), but there is so much Prussian blue on both side of the rocker that the smearing isn’t “covering up” any possible “over wipe”, if you will. Your wipe pattern is just fine, run it. You could cheat it back little bit, but you wouldn’t “feel” any gains that would come from it. In looking at those pics, it appears that you could safely go with a .020” thinner lash pad if you were inclined to cheat the rocker ratio.

If that engine is original, most likely the block has the dished pistons and if so, then keep the N-47. For an N/A application with the OE dished pistons, the standard Z car N-47, the N-42 or the E-88 are really your only options. The P-90 with those pistons gives you nothing in the way of performance unless you add boost as it will drop your compression ratio “below” 8:1. If long term performance enhancements are in your future including an engine rebuild, then I recommend you keep the P-90 and keep a sharp eye for a set of the European flat top pistons. HTH,