mossy74
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Posts posted by mossy74
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Good work, where about are you?
I'm in Melbourne
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I've just started doing some rust repairs on my 240z, I think I've got a bit of practising to do yet but I think its not too bad. I was thinking of doing my floor pans as well but I'm a bit scared to tackle something that big, any comments on my newbie welding?
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I'm after a 280zx NA dizzy with E12-80 module in good condition, to be posted to Melbourne Australia, I can pay with paypal.
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Sounds good, I'd be very interested, I will be running a mild 327 sbc though so I wonder if the halfshafts and diff will hold up. In saying that the PO ran the standard halfshafts and r180 for 18 years without a problem:confused:
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which end of the bumpstop do you cut down John?
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thanks grumpy!
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It would help a good deal to know the compression ratio, and the cars rear gear ratio, and any other info you can supply, those older 327 were quite varied and knowing the head casting numbers would also help!
If performance from the 327 sbc is the goal,In most cases ID strongly suggest a solid lifter flat tappet cam be sellected to take advantage of the engines potentialy high rpm power band, but unless I know the rear gear ratio and the cars intended use,that might not be a good idea.
Coludn't find out the compression ratio, I couldn't even find a casting number on the heads, the only number I found was on the block which was 3914660. I have seen some procomp aluminum heads on ebay here in oz but I'm not sure what the quality would be like compared to say the dart heads.
For the carb I was going to go with somthing like a holley 650, the diff ratio is 3.54 and its doubtful the car will see the track, I just want a powerful lumpy idle weekend car.
cheers
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Grumpy I've got a 327 SBC that was rebuilt about 10 years ago but has only done about 2000km's in that time so I'm not going with an engine rebuild at this time, to my knowledge the motor is standard but before I put the engine back in I wanted to put a performance cam in and some aluminum heads but not sure what to buy. When I do get to a full rebuild I'd be happy with 400hp max, it will be a weekend car only, I also have a rebuilt t5 with the heavy duty gearset so i imagine hp would be limited for the t5.
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Ok, looks like i will need a return line then, it was running a mechanical pump before I stripped the car down but since I am repositioning with a JTR kit I will be going with an electric pump, thanks.
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I'm restoring my SBC 240z at the moment and was looking at getting the brake and fuel lines restored and I noticed the fuel return line was cut and clamped off, is this normal?
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I'm restoring my SBC 240z at the moment and was looking at getting the brake and fuel lines restored and I noticed the fuel return line was cut and clamped off, is this normal?
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If i find brackets that are still welded on the car can they just be grinded off, I imagine they are still exactly the same bracket?
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I bought some calipers from a wrecker for my 280zx rear disc conversion but one caliper piston size is different from the other, can anyone tell me the piston size for a 280zx and a 280zx turbo, maybe i got one of each?
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There was a narrow window of production years for the maxima (82-83ish? maybe 84?) that had a bolt-on bracket for the rear disc brake caliper. IF that bracket is bolted on (not welded) then the bracket can be used to bolt rear discs from a 280ZX (82-83) directly onto the back of an S30 Zcar. I can't recall what the production date was on the ONE CAR i have found that actually had the bolt on ones, but i want to say it was an 83.
Thats about the only other bit I can think of.
I hear of a lot of peolpe finding these weld on brackets instead of the bolt on type, how come no one has used a cordless grinder to remove them?
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I checked the switch at the brake pedal and the two metal connectors that join the wires were not touching so problem solved
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Sorry its a 71 240z, I've checked all other lights and everything works and I've changed all the fuses.
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I can't seem to get my brake lights working, upon searching some threads some have said to clean the connector that grounds to the body behind the tailight panel, I can't find any wire that grounds to the body and another thread says to check the hazard switch wiring but I don't seem to have a hazard switch. This is an Australian car but I can't see there being many wiring differences.
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I was looking at making repoductions a little while ago but I didn't seem to get much interest here in Australia, I even found a brand new in box NOS heater panel but i didn't buy it, it sold for $775AUD!!!
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my 72 project has a badly rusted rear deck plate (very typical problem, as its already been mentioned) I've been looking for a while, and never found anyone that sells them new. Ended up finding a guy in San Jose, Rod's Datsuns, and he had cut one out a while ago since he knows its a very problematic area. cost me 120 for that plate, but its well worth it since I have no metal fabrication skills to make my own, and now finally I can finish it to send to the paint shop.
If any company had this part aftermarket they would have gotten my business a long time ago
The days of finding endless z cars in junk yards are nearing an end. Its good to know Tabco is interested in expanding their options for z cars
Is this the part your talking about?
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I searched but couldn't find a tutorial on replacing the rocker panel on the 240z, is there one floating about?
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thanks, I'll try that.
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I'm going to buy a quaife lsd for my R180 but I need to know what ID ring gear I have, I'm pretty clueless with this sort of stuff so is there an easy way to measure this?
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All sorted, thanks.
my rust repair patches
in Fabrication / Welding
Posted
I've started on some other areas and I've actually started to hold the spot longer and moving the puddle along, penetration is great and if I blow a hole its quite easy to fill it by moving the puddle across.