zcarcrazy

First off, it depends on how much you want to spend and how reliable/servicable you're expecting it to be. Personally, I would go with an electric pump, but if you're planning on saving a little on parts to offset the cost of having someone else complete the labor, then you may opt for the mechanical pump. Second, was there anything else that you are aware of? Finally, this statement is going to get you flamed. The forum is here for information, certainly. But, if you truly want help on a subject, you have to show the initiative to find the answers. Anyone who has spent any time on here will tell you that the search function is there for a reason. If you have questions about where to begin on your build of a 280Z, or if you want to know what parts and accessories to buy, you need to first read as much as you possibly can about other people's processes. Along the way you'll gain invaluable knowledge and determine a specific purpose for your build. As things stand right now, no one could answer your questions without a lot more information about what you're expecting from your end result. Good luck with your build, and search and read as much as you can. You may get frustrated some times when you're not able to find exactly what you think you're looking for, but you may also stumble on some info you weren't necessarily looking for.

Hey Vintage, I grabbed your base for the 280. I'm modifying it now. It's sort of addictive. Good job on the base, BTW. Veritech-z, you've got some amazing artwork. I'd really love to get into 3D, but I just don't have the time to devote to it. Great stuff. I'm sure in the 2 years since this thread started you've both gotten even better at your respective crafts. 19752802+2, those sketches remind me of a 3D concept that has been floating around for a while. I'd love to see what you come up with for the profile of the car. Wheels have always been the hardest thing for me to think up. I really like this thread. I'd love to see artwork from more of the members. I know we have some great artists, considering the creativity that many display in their abilities to create such incredible cars.

Hey, fellas. I've been on the forum for quite a while, and recently became curious about where some members were getting these "pixel cars" in their signatures. I have done some t-shirt artwork for my local club (Emerald City Z) and another semi-local club (Traingle Z). I know no one asked, but I thought I'd like to share a couple of my simple designs.

That is gorgeous! I absolutely love that color.

This may actually be better in a thread discussing the omition of the external voltage regulator, but my question actually comes from a link in this thread. So, I'm sorry if it seems like I'm off topic of the original posts. Has anyone tried the swap from the AtlanticZ write-up? See the "Click Here" link above. As I was reading through it, I noticed that he references ZCarCreations website for their procedure. The only problem I'm having is that they describe two different wiring modifications. I'm not sure if this is a typo - or some other form of mistake - or if there's a difference in the wiring of the canadian 280's, or if one of the descriptions is just wrong. They both agree that you tie the #1 & #5 wires together. They differ on the color, however. AtZ says #1 is blue. ZCC says that #1 is white/red. I can look at my wiring to figure that part out. It's after the #1 & #5 coupling that I get confused. AtZ goes on to say that you then join the #2 (white/red) wire to the #3 wire. ZCC states that you should join the #3 and #6 (white/blue) wires. Again, they almost agree completely. They agree that the #3 wire is yellow, and that it is one of the two wires to connect. Unfortunately, it starts to differ after that. Not only do they contradict each other about which wire to connect to the #3 wire, but they don’t even have the same color identification for the #2 and #6 wires. AtZ says #2 is white/red, as stated earlier. ZCC says it is just white. Then the #6 wire, according to AtZ is blue, whereas ZCC claims that his is white/blue. Again, the color of the wiring isn’t of as much importance to me as making sure that I’m connecting the appropriate wires to each other. I was merely pointing out the extent of the differences between the two write-ups. If anyone has any accurate info as to which set of instructions I should follow, or even which circuits I am trying to complete while eliminating the voltage regulator, I would love to hear it. I have the FSM, so I could trace out the wires to incorporate. I should also be able to determine which ones to disregard. Thanks for everyone’s time and assistance.

This is the most recent photo I have. It's going to be a while before I get to do much to the body.

It looks as though you have an excellent start to an awesome little Z. Congrats!

Don't forget the eastern NC guys - I don't know, I may be the only one up here. Just reading through and thought I'd chime in.

I know many guys have swapped the ZX distributor for their points type 240Z units. I've swapped one into my '77 280, but I'm still running the stock ECU & EFI. I'm having a problem with the car after driving for a mile or two. It acts as if it's flooding. The more I press the accelerator, the closer it gets to choking off. I was just wondering if the module on the side of the distributor could be mis-communicating with the ECU. Has anyone tried this particular setup?

I'm digging the Green Hornet. I was always under the impression that you could not remove the stock ignition module located on the passenger kick panel. I have the 6A with the solid state coil and tach adapter, but I've not gotten to install everything yet. To the best of my knowledge, which is quite limited, you should be fine using the Blaster 2 coil with your stock ignition.

Here are some pictures of my P90 head for those that are interested. Thanks, again, for looking.

Is it complete (cam, rockers, springs, valves, etc.)? Do you have any pics? Let me know what shipping would be to 27834. Thanks.

That's precisely why I bought it in the first place. However, it's my understanding that placing it on a short block with dished pistons will actually decrease my compression ratio, thus yielding less power. Please, correct me if I'm wrong. I just feel that I would have to invest more money into a tightly budgeted project than I'm able to right now, just to make this head work. Whereas, if I were able to trade for an N42, I would be able to just bolt on my existing components and ride. Thanks for your input.