specialk

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and guess that they don't have an emissions test for this vehicle, right?

no reason not to buy the engine as long as the price is right (and it doesn't burn oil and about a million other things) As far as the swap goes, anything will go in with enough time and money and you're going to have to search through the posts here before you can answer whether this engine is the one for you (hint: a small block chevy is probably the most common swap ever for Z cars) Remember though, YOU have to search. Posting too many questions like the above will have you running for an asbestos suit or simply going away because of the grief you'll get.

Detonation on 2 cylinders only?

Rather than build a vg33, why not a SBF or SBC? Probably 25% of the money and WAY more torque and horsepower (not to mention reliability and the ease of procuring parts in east armpit, north dakota!)

Mea Culpa, that is truly amazing - sorry 'bout dat dis

that's very pretty. it's a lot easier cleaning up a 'non-emissions' carbureted compartment than a z31 though

weight reduction - A/C - you don't need that in Oregon anyway

Seems a better idea (the 'other VG', that is). That's my leaning now.

My heads look like the mirror of the pistons (no surprise). The cylinder walls in all 6 cylinders look fantastic, but I'm so conflicted now I have 2 86na engines, each with manuals; the one you've seen here and another in the car, with a frozen cam. I also have an 87na with a toasted automatic. My plan was to take the 87 engine and stick it in the 86, and stick the engine you've seen here (and it's xmission) in the 87. Divest myself of the 87 and keep the 86 (I like it's looks more). Now, I'm thinking stick the 86 xmission in the 87 and work (over time) to get the frozen 86 engine running again. Yuck.

Thanks for the input (if you have a second, any input on the picture above?)

Anybody have experience with ebay seller partsdinosaur? He sells gasket kits for cheap and I'm wanting to get this thing running!

thanks very much!

I 'intimated' it, just by claiming I wasn't going to go through the whole engine, but I do appreciate the help One other query though: The haynes mentions "all the different lengths" of bolts in the lifter and head bolts. I found all the lift bolts to be the same length and only 2 lengths in the head bolts. Do you recollect if that is what you've found too? Oops, one more question: I see exhaust gaskets listed that appear to be for one port at a time. I assume I just buy six of them, is that correct?

Not for a car I don't expect to keep for too long. This is a daily beater that I just need to have run -- and not forever

Really cheap? Where? All the rebuild kits I see are multiple hundreds of dollars.

Anyway, I've already got both heads off and the back two pistons on the drivers side have debris marks on them. BIG debris marks. LOTS of BIG debris marks (OK, not exactly lots, maybe 20 per piston). Not like a bolt, but like the tip of a screwdriver fell into each of them and left a bunch of marks on the piston (and then exited the cylinder). This is a pain in the keester, but I'm going to leave that bit as is -- cause I'm sure not removing/replacing the pistons

I'm doing an engine swap into an 86NA and whilst going through the donor engine I removed the plugs to check compression (engine has sat for 2 years). Two plugs came out very quickly and when I try to reinsert them (or the compression tester) they stop too fast also. A normal plug takes approx. 10 turns from engagement of the threads until seated, these take less than three. Anyway, does anybody have any really good ideas for fixing these threads without removing the heads?

Given the choice of getting 500 STREETABLE horsepower from each engine, I'm picking the 350 every single time. I guarantee I can do it for 50% of the cost (and complexity) and, when I break down in east armpit, north dakota - I'll be able to find parts

typhoone, As far as getting HP, just do the math and compare a 3L six cylinder to a 5.7L 8 cylinder. If your only interest is HP, you'll be able to create it for far less money on the Chevy than the Nissan engine. Go to www.chevytalk.org and use the search function and type this exact phrase in (including the quotes): "I just want 500hp"

It's out! The drivetrain is sitting on the floor of my garage relaxing. I'll be yanking the drivetrain out of the 87 (trashed automatic) this weekend and replacing it with this bad boy. I have a couple more parts to get from the donor (pedals, brake and clutch MC, etc), but I'm essentially ready. Of course, I'll freshen up the t-belt, water pump and rear main seal though beforehand. Thanks for all the help (and) Wish me luck!

In our parlance, yes. In the Nissan FSM, no.

You know, on an American car/truck, the drive shaft goes between the transmission and the differential. On this car, that same item is called a propeller shaft (the drive shaft goes from the diffy to the wheel/rotor). Does that make any difference in any of the answers I'm getting?

Companion flange is the item attached to the differential (where the DS connects with those four bolts), correct? If they swap with relative ease, this is not a problem.

I feel your pain. That is NOT something I intend to do (but, then again, I've done swaps before and know (some) of what I can and cannot do).

Thanks for that info. I was wondering the same thing yesterday, but wasn't sure enough to risk it. I will need the DS when the manual goes into the 87, I'm assuming that it will just bolt up with those four fasteners, correct?