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specialk

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Everything posted by specialk

  1. IME 9/16 works well in place of a 14mm I thought so too, I was able to get one loosened, but the next one was just a little too tight and the fit was just a little too loose, it had me very concerned about rounding the edges Since I've got three cars total that I'll be doing this too (3 removals and 2 installs) I'm just gonna get the wrenches; it's better for my heart that way.
  2. Not out yet, I found out that the driveshaft uses 14mm bolts on the flange to the differential, and of the 50+ wrenches that I have, not one of them is 14mm -- much less 2, which is how many I really need Yeah, yeah, I said I had the DS out, I just couldn't fathom that there would be this problem. Hopefully I'll get there today with 2 new wrenches (as well as all the rest of the crap I've been toting around) and get it out late this afternoon or early this evening. Crap this sucks -- but, it's the pain we pay for a free drivetrain
  3. I'm (hopefully) minutes away from pulling the engine from an 86NA/5spd donor. I have 1 quick question that maybe I'll get lucky enough to get an answer to. Anyway, I've got nearly everything off the engine; wires, hoses, plenum; as well as the transmission. The exhaust is out of the way and the drive shaft has been dropped. If I raise just the front of the car, will there be sufficient clearance to slide the engine and tranny out as a unit?
  4. The turbo and N/A heads are the same. They use different pistons for CR mod's
  5. 1) Why use the Toyota xmission (besides cost)? 2) If Advance Adapters sells an adapter to mate to an SBC, then they surely must know where to get a flywheel/clutch kit that will work 3) The engine mounts posted look like they mount to the frame. I'm guessing you'll do a lot of fab to get it to work. Looks at Alf's pictures and read his description. That's a very good way to do the mounts. One suggestion I have been given is to build your mount mock-ups out of plexiglass. Visibility, cost and workability are three very good reasons why (Thanks GrumpyVette!). One other suggestion I would make (based upon nothing besides thought) would be to create a system that attaches to the front of the engine and mounts to the frame. That's how my old (62) chevy pickup did it and it works pretty well.
  6. chevy 283 - 400 ci engine are all the same external dimensions, so mounting won't be any different. As far as weight goes, I don't think there's much difference either (but of course I could be wrong)
  7. A question to ask yourself (honestly) is "what do I plan to do with this car?" If it's something that will get a lot of miles and be driven in a lot of traffic, you're better off building something that will run on 87 octane fuel, with good heads, good internals and a mild camshaft. But, if you're putting 350 hp already in a 2500+ lb car, I'm guessing this isn't a primary mode of transportation. In that case, step it up a notch. Get better heads, better internals and more cam. Chevy High Performance magazine has run article after article after article about what can be done with these engines. And they (for the most part) report pretty truthfully about the driveability issues too. Remember, build the engine you want as opposed to 'making due'. The costs up front are incremental if you do the former, but you'll pay for everything twice if the latter path is followed. Or, you'll never be happy with what you built and won't ever have the opportunity to build another one.
  8. the untilmate pinks car would be on nitrous or a turbo. just run it and each time you do turn the boost up or put bigger jets in. so you negoiate, add more, and win. screw them cry babies. they all sand bag anyway and the guys that actually do run there car all its got gets screwed in the end. How is your suggestion not sandbagging
  9. It's a common myth that water flowing too fast will not cool your engine well. Look at it this way, if 5 gallons goes through the radiator in 1 minute, cooling by 10 degrees, that same 5 gallons going through 30 seconds will cool 5 degrees. But, in one minute, it will have passed through twice (losing the other 5 degrees) for the same effective cooling rate. So, please banish that thought. To your other problem, if you can't get the t-stat to seal, there must be something wrong with: A) the intake manifold the water neck C) the thermostat Be sure that the first two are perfectly flat and (IIRC) that the t-stat fits down into the recessed area of the intake correctly.
  10. GV (et.al.) I went to Barnes and Noble last night and picked up the book/DVD. I watched the DVD through the first assembly, right up to installing the first piston with rings. My first impression is that this is really complete! It talks about each and every step along the way, truly everything to do after the engine is out of the vehicle. Thinks like 'hidden' water jacket plugs up to EXACTLY the sequence to use to torque the main caps (back 4 caps first, front cap after, including how to set the crank against the thrust bearing). There's a lot of information about machine work, showing exactly how each step is performed at the shop, letting the user know what they can and can't (as well as shouldn't) do themselves. There were only 1 or 2 special tools that are mentioned (specifically the cam bearing tool) and they tell you that because of expense you should just have the shop do it. Otherwise, there's not been one thing so far that almost all of us have in the garage. Tonight I'll watch the rest and post my opinions at that point.
  11. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598_cylinder_head_flow_bench_database/photo_11.html
  12. gv, I've seen that book in the store (borders, IIRC) and wondered if it was worth getting. Now that I know the answer, yippee! BTW, I bought the book which is a compilation of the Goodwrench Quest articles from CHP, it was (and is) fantastic! Thanks for that too.
  13. Better than a 70's - 80's truck, get a '96 - '01 w/a 350. This includes vortec heads and you'll be much happier starting there.
  14. 5K now (14 hours after OP) with another day to go. It's gonna go for a lot.
  15. If it were me (and I knew the qjet was good), that's what I would use. They're a kind of 'magical' carb when working correctly in that they are a 2 bbl when driving nicely and a 4 bbl when you get your foot in it
  16. In the extremely custom car world, these sorts of people are an unfortunate side effect. These folks do not have morals, they're just trying to find a way to unload their problems on someone else. The good news is that you can spread the word about these cheats and stop them from whacking other people in the future. Good luck, I hope you get everything going well in the VERY near future.
  17. I agree 100%. I would never sell a vehicle without disclosing all known problems to the buyer. However, remember what you're buying. A vehicle built from parts gathered together from numerous sources and then handbuilt by someone whom you have never met. Even you said, "ALWAYS have a reputible third party inspect a car if you can't inspect it personally."
  18. paz8, why should he 'go after' the seller? Buying a used car is caveat emptor, especially a specialty vehicle like this. It's his, he's got to fix it.
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