specialk

IIRC (check out z31.com to be sure) 2K rev limit is almost always MAF.

First off, very sorry to hear about your loss. I'm not much for participation in this board, so can't say that I've had dealings with him, but the loss of a family member is always tough. My condolences to you and your family. Second, if you post some information about the car, we can probably help. My son goes to school there, so I visit with some frequency, it might be a good way to get the word spread about the car. Again, sorry for your loss.

A total of 2? Yes. But, you already have one. Just replace the roller on the bracket attached to the firewall with a bellcrank, threaded rod from existing bellcrank to new bellcrank (use heim joints), and then threaded rod from new bellcrank to carb (again, using heim joints). See GV's picture.

You can sell a car on ebay for < $20? I don't know one way or the other, but if that's the case, I would be stunned. [edit] and, I can't even imagine the caliber of buyers I would get on craiglist for this variety of specialty vehicle [/edit]

You have a geometry problem. With X inches of pedal travel, you need Y inches of cable travel. In the post from grumpyvette, the first item he lists (the bellcrank) will almost certainly provide your solution, essentially 'multiplying' X by Z to give you Y. A little hint, replace the roller with the bellcrank, put the cable coming from the pedal in a hole close to the pivot and the cable from the bellcrank to the carb far from the pivot.

linkage is all internal. you won't know what's up until you get it off (the tranny) and take it apart. The good news is that the tranny's really aren't that hard to find. So, if it runs well and looks good (very little rust/denting/damage/etc) it's probably still worth it. You can check too (crawl underneath) and see if the problem is the clutch engagement/disengagement as this is a hydraulic clutch system (pretty easy to see look underneath on the passenger side just inside the back of the front tire. Look at the online feild service manual for the car (search here to find out where to download that from)

I looked and looked and looked and never really got an acceptable answer to the resistance wire questions. I put a serpentine system on an sbc, utilizing a generic wiring harness. The CS130 has S F L P connections, with the S being the big red wire and (IIRC) F & L being used for non-resistance/resistance respectively connections. Is that correct or do I need a 75 ohm/3 watt resistor in the L line?

Wander around on z31.com (and be sure the SEARCH a lot before you ask any questions!)

Congrats on therunning car and good luck getting it all dialed in. Not to be a killjoy, but all that has to make you wonder what other things are potential problems in the car.

Note that your cam is a 110 LSA and John suggests 106. Note that you're only talking 9 thousands of a second improvement to make your mark and (IIRC) every 100lbs can be 1 tenth of a second. At that area, assuming everything else you do is correct every time, eating a smaller meal or going to the bathroom before the race could be the difference Seriously though, if you can find 50 lbs (hood and/or passenger seat?) you should easily pass the number.

For $3500, I would look at the 350ci/330hp crate from gm performance parts (just because you'll get the warranty). As far as the 700r4, you can get a reasonably priced version (that will take pretty good HP) for ~$1500 (see bowtieoverdrives.com). As far as the rear end, I won't pretend to have a reasonable answer to that, I can only suggest more searching Good luck (and thanks for your service)

aha, I missed that subtle difference. then it would be fun.

Please allow me to ask the 'stupid' question: Why would you (or anyone else) want to be on PINKS? It seems to me that the only way to win is to sandbag (just like in real life) and still, if you make one little (itty bitty) mistake, your car is gone. So, why?

As a counterpoint to the 'how much is my time worth' I would contend that my free time is worth $0/hr. Why? Because this is a hobby where I'm not supposed to make money. If I wasn't doing this, I'd be doing something else that cost money. I could fish, hunt, m'cycle, golf, etc., etc., all of which cost money every time I do them (some of them more than others). To carry that a step farther, let's say I got a part time job to pay for the drivetrain. Let's say I get paid $10/hr. First off, I wouldn't have as much free time (which, as you will recall, is worth $50/hr). So, by working, I'm losing $40/hr. Yes, I'm being facetious, but it was fun. Anyway, I've thought about the PT job to pay for toys/hobbies and always decided that I'd rather wait, dicker, barter, etc. But, to each his/her own.

A very recent hot rod/chevy hi performance magazine had an article on exactly this. Go to www.primedia.com (IIRC) and search through their magazines for stories with 4L60, you should be able to find what you're looking for.

power valve sizing is based upon how much vacuum the engine draws at idle. Do a google search for the replacement information.

So, will it past visual at the smog station?

Stacy David (GearZ/Trucks) did a Miata/V8 swap this past weekend, I'd look for that to get suddenly popular Nice work on yours BTW, that's sweet!

If you have a bent valve, the cylinder with the bent valve will have very little (to no) compression. Get a compression tester (~$20 HF) and test it. If every one of them measures ~150psi (or more), you're good to go. It's an involved job, removal of the front timing covers and t-belt, intake plenum and manifold, as well as the head with the offending valve. Remove the bent valve, install a new valve, check for deflection (<8/1000") - if too much, new valve guide. At minimum the new valve must be lapped in, better to get a 3angle valve job. Installation is the reverse of disassembly

http://www.tvmadeez.com

Kevin, I've been to Plano Auto recently, just to talk, and they seemed pretty amenable, willing to advise and listen. Of course, I haven't hired them to do anything yet either I will keep your words in mind though.

You're cruel. You'd send him to z31.com and he can't find the dipstick? That's just not right.

The 700R4 has a hell of lot of requirements to correct installation and setup, are you sure you've completed them all? I only ask because it doesn't take very many FEET of incorrect setup for the transmission to eat itself. www.tvmadeez.com (IIRC)

I'm just a 'few' miles from you (Dallas) and would love to hear where there is any supply of these blocks for free. I'm not being facetious, I truly am interested. TIA

Just bear in mind Mike, the exhaust manifolds do have to come off when you do a HG, they don't when you do a swap