Randall

Wow its been a while since I have been on here. Still have the car and have done a lot to it since. I am currently making close to 400 plus hp with a flex fuel sensor. I removed the charcoal canister probably over 5 years ago to make room for A/C and intercooler piping when this thread was started and noticed that fuel would come out of the line that was left behind after the removal. I blocked it off shortly after and never had a problem since then. I have the tank out again just refreshing lines and was thinking of blocking the two lines on top of the tank off (one large one about 5/8 and the other is 5/16). I personally don't see the issue after going through the manual. It looks like the fuel cap is vented to allow fresh air in which would prevent a vacuum situation and at the same time I don't see an issue with building excess pressure in the tank. Although I suppose the real issue is when the tank is full and its hot outside causing fuel to work its way out of the filler cap. I'm guessing I have never noticed this since I typically only put about 5-7 gallons in and never fill the tank all the way. Mainly due to an incorrect hose being used for the large 5/8 hose (heater hose) detoriorating and causing partial clogs in my pre pump 100 micron filter. Still trying to decide what to do...

I know this thread is a little old but the same exact thing just happened to me. I could have sworn I put a new 71b bearing in when I did the 71c swap but I now have about 4000 miles on my build at 20psi and the other day I put my foot in it while in second and right as the boost came in boom went my countershaft bearing. Would it be worth boring for the larger countershaft?

Just thought I would add an update. I finally got to the dyno and I hit 15.8 PSI @ 3,100 rpm and it falls to about 14.7 PSI @ Redline (6,000 rpm) I made 300 HP @ 5,000 (falling off to 250 HP at redline) and 350 ft-lbs @ 3800 rpm (falling off to 225 at redline) I think a stage 3 or stage 5 would really be beneficial to gaining more power up top just not sure which one to choose. Either way I went I would tune to about 400 ft-lbs since that is what my clutch is rated at.

-Engine= L28ET 1mm over stock compression -Turbo= t3/to4E 50trim compressor, stock t3 turbine and housing -Exhaust system= MSA turbo downpipe (exhaust dumps at the transmission mount) -Boost= Max = 15.8, @Redline (6,000rpm) = 14.7, Full Boost @ 3,000-3,200rpm -ECU= MS2 v3 -Injectors= 440cc Supra -HP= 300HP @ 5000 rpm, 350Ft-Lbs @ 3800 rpm Dyno pull video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UYj2HGCaPKk

Just curious if you noticed a difference from 2 inch to 2.5 inch pipe. My goal is 350 who with my setup and I found an equation in korky bells book maximum boost that suggests 2 inch would be sufficient for about 400hp while keeping velocity high and lag low. 2.25 should be good for almost 500hp. I see a lot of people running 3 inch on here which is pretty much overkill for a l28et and also introduces plenty of lag.

Yeah that's what most people run with the l28 since that is how it was controlled mostly with the factory ecu. Here is a virtual dyno from a datalog in 3rd gear. https://www.dropbox.com/s/1vik76wwaymkywn/Dyno.png

I'm looking at maybe purchasing these. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/260z/rear-lower-control-arms-datsun-240z-260z-280z Does the front look OK or should I be these as well https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/front-lower-control-arms-240z-260z-280z

No just ordered an intercooler. I'm running megasquirt. Timing is 24 at idle ramping to 39 degrees at 3000rpm then dropping 1 degree per psi which would put me at 33 degrees at 6 psi

Here Are the measurements: LF/RF CAMBER -.7/-1.1 CASTER 2.8/3.5 TOE .06/.05 LR/RR CAMBER -1.3/-2.1 TOE .9/.38 Keep in mind I have replaced all bushings on front but have not got to the rear. Also lowered with tokico blue springs and kyb struts.

I just ran a 14.2 @ 101 mph @ 6psi last week. When I said I was running 10psi that's where my wastegate was set and the 10 psi would come in quick in first but not the following gears.

Having it checked in the morning will report back tomorrow on results.

I understand where your coming from but just don't have the time. Plus Firestone has a coupon at the moment for free alignment check and 79 bucks to fix alignment issues if needed.

Its the stock open diff 3.545 never been touched or at least that's how it looks.

Thanks I've done everything on this car from motor to body work. But self alignment probably wouldn't help considering there is no way to adjust the rear at all from the factory.I'll probably just take it to get aligned especially since I work over 70 hours a week now.

Sorry to bring this thread back to life but I just put flares on with 235s in the front and 255s in the back and when the road is dry it behaves fine even at 100 mph at the drag strip but as soon as its wet on the roads it stars wiggling around in the back over 60 mph or so. I've owned this car for 4 years and even ran 225s for a while but never had this problem until the 255s where put on.