Randall

no i took it off when i cleaned everything up and never put it back on...I plan on doing that sometime soon to see if the heat soak reduces.

Yeah I just got my MS2 v3 up and running and in a data log you can see random voltage spikes as high as 18 volts. And when cruising it will cut out at random (feels like a burn). Ive seen at least 5 different ways to fix this. Some say a cap to the transistor legs. Some say a cap on the H1 position (boot header). and now letitsnow says he used 4 or 5 caps all over the place. Ive seen more people solve their problem with just a 47uF on the H1 position or 47uF on the transistors. Think i may try the H1 mod first to see if it helps.

even though this an old topic i thought i would add to it... I just finished my turbo setup with MS2 and i mounted the GM sensor in the manifold where the cold start injector was previously. I was driving it around for the first time and had my datalogs to reference when i finally stopped the car. It was approximately 40F outside and after the car had warmed up even at WOT the air temp never went below 100F i find it hard to believe that on a 40 degree day that i would not see IAT temps below 100 degrees especially considering where my air filter is mounted.

So i found this... http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/100926-major-voltage-spikes-and-sags-with-megasquirt-ii-30/ looks like im not the only one with voltage spikes. Also i was just doing some reading and saw that people recommended a stage 3 turbine when using the larger 50, 57, and 60 trim compressors. My setup has the T04e with a 50 trim and im still rocking the stock T3 and stock turbine. I am only running stock boost but i have positive pressure just about 2800 and 7lbs of boost by 3000. So im not understanding why some people say the stage 3 is necessary for the larger wheels unless it becomes a problem at higher boost levels

Yeah I have it at 12.8 at 7lbs and I can't keep traction in first or second on brand new 195 tires. Time to upgrade to 225's all around. Only thing that is still buggy is megasquirt will cut out randomly and I believe that it is because I am getting random voltage spikes as high as 18v Also I have KnocksenseMS and when I enable knock retard in MS and go back and look at the logs it's pulling timing everywhere randomly and the knock light on the sensor unit does not even flash.

Hmm I have it running around there now but it doesn't feel like it did in the 12's

well finally got into it... the 3/8 fuel hose i bought from autozone to connect the fuel pump to the tank had an inside liner that was peeling off restricting flow. Put new hose in and if pulls hard at about a High 12 low 13 AFR. I am basically running Cygnus's tune unchanged except the idle as his was quite rich around idle. What is the consensus on the best AFR under boost for this motor? PS. need to get new tires on my 15x7 wheels. The 195's cant hold traction in first our second when in boost.

Well I got a vacuum gauge and some tees along with some clear fuel line. Car off pump running I'm getting 12 in of vacuum also there is a lot of air in the line.

It's mounted almost exactly like the stock pump from 76. Except it is a little above halfway on the tank and the pre filter hangs down to the bottom of the tank http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/96315-por-15-fuel-tank-repair-question/ I think this is what happened to my tank....

Yeah finally remote mounted my fuel pressure gauge so I could see it while driving. I get about 35 at idle and as the rpms go up the pressure just keeps dropping. Once it hits 20 the car leans out and won't drive. Tried two different fpr's and got the same result. Could this walbro 255 lph be a piece of junk out of the box? I pulled my tank and cleaned and coated it when I did my N/A weber motor build and that car would rev to 6 or 7 grand and still have plenty of fuel so I don't suspect blockage in the tank.

Here they are in a .zip format... I think the problem is the stock FPR im seeing about 20 psi at idle and when i blip the throttle sometimes it will actually drop. Going to get some hose so i can relocate my Fuel pressure gauge so that i can see it while driving. The pump is a new Walbro 255 with a 40 micron pre filter and 10 micron post. So its not dirt and i dont believe to be a bad pump although this pump does have a pretty loud wine to it. I tried adding fuel where it leans out with almost no improvement so that only leads me to believe that im not seeing good fuel pressure. DataLogs.zip

Here are some datalogs... First one get into third gear and floor it and let off when it it hits lean. Then i do the same in fourth. Next map is the same except i increased req_fuel just to see if it was a misfire or running lean. I can see in the second datalog that the req_fuel did help my afr's Also i have my wastegate tied open so the car is not seeing boost. DataLogs.rar

They are brand new bpr7es I believe whatever everyone recommends on here. I left them gapped at .35 which is what they came with. They look fine just a little rich. Motor seems to be breaking in fine with 19 to 20 inch of vacuum at idle and 23-24 on decell Right now I have the VR line to mega squirt ran the way the original lines were which means it runs next to the coil and next to the alternator Would it be better to run it up along with the injector lines or will the injectors be even noisier?

Got the timing stabilized by switching the input capture and it only runs with an offset between 0-10 offset. 45 works too but anything higher wont start. Now I'm getting random lean spikes all over the place with no rhyme or reason. I believe they are misfires dont know why it is cutting out

BTW if i set my timing and use a fixed advance when i rev the car it jumps up another 10 to 15 degrees

Well figured it out the LC-1 comes with 2 analog outs that are both pre loaded one is a narrowband voltage and the other is a wideband. So the gauge was seeing the wideband voltage and MS was seeing the narrowband but expecting wideband voltages. These outputs are programmable so i just set them both to wideband and everything is now good. Now onto the cars first datalog while driving. Still breaking it in so i did not go over 3000 rpm just kept varying the load around the neighborhood. I kept getting some random lean spikes using cygnus' maps with the advance locked at 20 (still not sure the timing setup is perfect so i just locked it at 20 for the first drive). Let me know what you think. 2013-02-23_01.23.19.rar

Yeah I've done everything calibrated ms for LC-1 all grounds for ms and lc1 go directly to the battery. LC-1 has 2 outputs one for their gauge and one for ms. I think the controller is possibly messed up cause I've gone through the wiring with a multimeter to check all connections.

What do you mean by LC-1 readings? The gauge? Because LC-1 goes to both the MS and Innovative Gauge. The gauge seems more accurate because when it is idling at its best the gauge shows around 13-14 and MS is showing like 10 or something ridiculously rich.

Just realized your actually running the same setup up as me almost. I have a link in my signature showing everything i have. Just got my car running if you have the lastest firmware on MS2 extra i could send you my tune to save you the trouble of copying cygnus's over.

you can still open his tune up in tunerstudio and then open up a separate tunerstudio window for your setup and export all of his maps then import them into your tune then just copy over all of his values for warmup and enrichment and magic it works. or for me it did.

I feel like an idiot... I was so frustrated last night and almost burned up my starter in the process. So I gave it a rest. This morning i cleaned up the distributor again and reset all of the air gaps. Set the motor to tdc, set plug wires back to stock. put in 0 degree offset in ms turned the key and it started right up and ran smooth. Then i just turned the distributor slightly to get the correct advance as my fixed timing was set to in megasquirt. Here is a video: Only problem left is i am getting different readings for my AFR in Megasquirt when compared to the LC-1 Gauge. All grounds are at the same place for both megasquirt, LC-1, and gauges.

I don't understand I have a 64 offset and my timing light matched what ms was commanding. Turned the car off and now it won't start I'm getting 10 on the crank when cranking. Finally get it started and I can't keep it running

See that is what i was thinking and it makes sense... I have been trying to do that from the beginning. Setting the trigger offset to 60 and fine tuning the distributor but i think i was so far off that it made it hard. So i tried 45 offset and bammmm the car runs awesome but could not turn the distributor to get the timing that megasquirt was commanding. but i got it close before my battery died. Today i will try switching back to 60 offset and getting the timing spot on. BTW i did not have enough advance with the 2 distributor set screws on the distributor so i rotated all my plug wires 1 place clockwise to get the advance i needed. I dont know if my math is right but on the cap there is 60 degrees between each plug wire. And the distributor slots have about 60 degrees combined 30 for advance 30 for retard. So in order to get a 60 degree angle/offset you would have to center the distributor and move all of the plugs clockwise 1.

Here is another data log. I believe MS was commanding around 30 degrees but i was seeing around 15 or so with the timing light. 2013-02-20_21.18.11.rar

yeah but i think my auto zone timing light is junk...finally borrowed my neighbors variable craftsman timing light and where mine said 5*ATDC this one is saying 10*BTDC so i finally get the car dialed in so that my timing matches what is commanded in megasquirt. Car idles great around 15-20 degrees but using the table is trying to call for 25 to 30 at around 1200 rpm