Randall

I just rebuilt a flat-top motor with p79 head. I currently have triple webbers installed and they are in need of a rebuild. So instead of rebuilding them I am thinking of selling and going megasquirt and maybe a turbo. Here is a list of everything that i can think of at the moment: intake manifold fuel rail injectors fuel pump fuel pressure regulator megasquirt wideband sensor If i go turbo what else will i need besides the turbo and turbo exhaust manifold? Will a turbo run fine on the 8.8:1 compression vs. the 8.3:1 of the turbo motors with dished pistons? Just trying to get a list together i will be purchasing everything on the list above plus a turbo from a guy on craigslist. The megasquirt and wideband and fuel pump will also be purchased separately.

i have a 280z with tokico springs and kyb shocks. The car came with 15 inch wheels and a 195/60-15. i wanted to put closer to the stock tire size so i had discount tire put 195/65's on the rear but i got to looking and it looks like i will have trouble fitting that size tire on the front. From what i have read i should be able to fit that tire if i roll the fenders? what does rolling the fenders entail? thanks

Thanks for all of the info i just got the radiator it was 30 percent blocked

Thanks for all of the info i just got the radiator it was 30 percent blocked

Should I worry about bottom end damage

I've never seen the gauge go over 3/4 but the last time I noticed it I was on the highway so I don't know how long the freeze plug was out

I hammered them in using a large socket till flush with block how else to do it?

I'm taking the radiator to be inspected and ordering an oem thermostat. I am going to pull freeze plugs and reinstall with sealant on passenger side of block. I am running a 13 lb cap. I will let u know when I get it started up again. I am going to put new oil and filter in also since I have driven it a 100 miles already. If something was damaged from the multiple overheats what would I be looking for? Would a compression test tell me what health the motor is in?

Heated it up on the stove to make sure it would open this was on the autozone thermostat. I then tried the one that was in the old motor before I pulled it (this one worked before I pulled the motor) and that didn't help either

I installed it the way the fsm had it pictured and the same way it was on my old motor so I doubt I installed it wrong. Btw I installed it spring down.

I just completely rebuilt the motor and there is no smoke or leaks starts up great and runs strong.

Hi, I recently rebuilt a 2.8 from a junkyard had a machine shop deglaze walls polish crank and check clearances. I put standard size rings and bearings back in and installed a rebuilt head. I put a new thermostat in and a radiator that I pulled from a junkyard that appeared to be in awesome condition. I installed the freeze plugs by hammering them in with a socket not using any sealant. Ok so now to the problem First drive it started to overheat top hose was cold bottom hose very hot. I checked the thermostat and it was opening up. Also I let it sit after that first drive and I came back out to find that the 2 nd to last plug on passenger side had popped out. Put a new one in and drove the car a couple of days without a thermostat just fine. Put the thermostat back in and tried another trip this time while driving the 2nd plug from the front popped out. So I pulled over and could have sworn I blew up my motor. What could be causing this? How will I know if I have damaged anything?

well i was going through the fsm today and read through installing the crank again and realized i forgot to align every thing by giving the end of the crank a good smack with a mallet. So i loosened all the bolts smacked it and tightened everything back down to 35 ft/lbs and i can now turn it with my hand.

I bought a 2.8 f54 block from a junkyard had it cleaned inspected, de-glazed and crankshaft polished. everything came back good so i ordered std bearings and rings and gaskets from zcarsource.com I just put the crankshaft in with the bearings/lube and torqued it down to 40 ft/lbs following the FSM. now to the problem... i went to spin the crank and i can only turn it by pushing on the counter weights? It should spin fairly easy right?

by the way the website i listed regrinds stock cams. Thats why i was going to use their cam cause i have heard of aftermarket cams that fail with very few miles.

Yeah because triple webers need 16 BTDC and the stock distributor is designed for 8 BTDC so i need to get the distributor recurved so im not at 40 something degrees on the highway. Who would i send my cam out too and how much would that cost?

Here are the 2 cams i would go with but not sure what would be best a stage 2 - http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/871 or a stage 3 - http://www.datsunstore.com/product_info.php/products_id/321 Keep in mind this will be my daily driver so im thinking stage 2 will probably be the best choice.

Thanks for the advice i think I will do just that one of my friends use to own a machine shop so i think ill grab the head and have him send it to his old shop to have it looked over and hopefully they will be able to clean it up. I need to have my distributor taken to a shop to adjust it cause im having timing issues with the triples. Its the later electronic ignition but it has not been modified to run 16 at idle. If i bump it up that high at idle i get a little pinging on the highway. Do you think there will be problems with a 10:1 compression ratio.

I recently purchased a 76 280z and after some research found that he had put in a 2.6 liter motor and installed triple webers. The head valve seats are deteriorating as they evidently have never been replaced with hardened seats. After a little research i want to take a N42 head and place it on a later 280zx motor with flattop pistons to raise the compression to about 10:1. I found a N42 head and a 280zx motor at the local junkyard and they sell parts really cheap probably less than 200 for the head and block. The N42 head they have does not have a valve cover and everything has rust all over it. My question is if the rust is too bad to polish off will everything except the intake valves, which were smaller in the 2.6 i believe, swap from the E88 to the N42 (cam, rockers, springs, etc...) If not could i also grab a 280zx head and use it to swap parts?

anyone?

Just wondering was looking around and there are 5 different spark plugs for the 240, 260, 280z and zx. What was the difference besides gaps in these spark plugs if anything? Reason i am asking is because i have a 76 280z currently with a 2.6 motor and a 280zx ignition with triple webers and i am trying to figure out what spark plug i should be running.

Ok just bought me a 280z and the webers were tuned for a stoker motor the guy bought them and put them on a stock l28 it runs pretty rich but mainly at idle...lots of backfiring during warm-up. so i finally got a chance to look at what was in them and here are the results... Chokes - 32 Main - 130 Emulsion - F11 Pump Jet? - 45 Air Jet - unknown, not sure where it is Idle Jet - 50F6 Sometimes i can floor it and launch from idle with no problems and sometimes it will get choked up and stutter for a split second. Not sure if the guy had the throttle plates set correctly but when i get a chance ill set them.

Yeah so far I have probably spent a good day of reading lol. How bad can it be?

I will be picking up a 76 280z from Austin this weekend. It is about 95% rebuilt just a couple of odds and ends still left. One thing i will need help on, that i have never worked with before, is the fact that it has Triple Webers on her. Also it is running rich because the guy had the carbs tuned for a stroker motor. If i had the money i would put the carbs on a stroker motor but i do not so i will need some advice on getting the carbs set up to run correctly on the stock l28. It also has 6-2-1 headers and a 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust all the way back. Im really excited about this vehicle and am excited about being apart of the community.