fcdrifter13

Ok we got it running perfect and for searching reasons Ill actually post the answer. We could here a hissing noising coming from one of the intakes so we took the upper off. Used a drivers license over the ports on the lower to confirm that we had a good seal. Started looking at the plenum gasket and found where the leak was, loaded it up with RTV and now it runs fine.

UGGGGGG, I hate rust, the more I dig into it the more I find, I got the old patch panels out today after a long hiatus of work due to a sinus infection that is going around. I did however get all of the old tar out of the interior and laid in some new seal sealer along all the edges I did not have to replace. Pics as usual.

Looking for a good drivers door glass for a 71z, or I may be interested in buying a complete door with or without interior panels.

Ok sorry I have not updated in awhile I have been very busy at work. I got all the bondo out of the rear quaters, everylast bit, and I now hate the stuff with a passion. I finally got rid of the hesitation on the stock l24, I replaced the cap, button, plugs, wires, starter, alt, set point, and set timing with no luck, then I read the SU forums on classicz and learned that the carbs have fluid in them, needless to say mine was out. Runs like a champ now, and the smoking is gone until about 6krpm. I do have a question though, when I got my starter put on the little solenoid went out on the fender so I replaced it with one from a ford and got it all wired up, and it went out again, so I had one of my friends come over to help me look into it and he found that I didnt even need that little noid, now bear with me on this I am a stickler for putting things back the wa I found them. When I got the car the starter was going out, it may or may not have been the original but it had a solenoid built onto the starter along with the one on the fender, well my friend bypassed the one on the fender and just made it work off the one on the starter itself. Is this right, or is it going to burn something up, the car starts fine and the starter doesnot stay running when the key is not in the start position. I also got the N! muffler I ordered in the mail along with some strait pieces and some mandrel U bends I am just waiting on the borla xr-1 I ordered to come in so I can get the exhaust done.

Ok we finally got the car to start but it will only rev to 2k, THe ECU is still flashing the same codes as above. Would a code 11 cause 12 and 13 aswell if the CAS was bad?

Ok I got everything measured up and everything seems fine. But I did find an axle that needs replacing it is a little loose.

Well I am going to measure eerything out today as sooon as I get of of work, I may be able to finish the drivers quater today aswell.

I know, I know more quarter pics but I am actually excited about it, it is not nearly as bad as what I thought we would uncover. The drivers side I should be able to patch the correct way instead aof HVAC sheet metal, and the passenger I am going to order from Black Dragon. The only reason I am not going to rebuild the passenger is because the PO let the bondo crack where it had been fixd and water got inside and ate at the metal and made it terribly thin, an issue I do not want to deal with don the road. I didnt get a shot of my hood but it is not salvageable to me, the from is bondo about 2in think and looks as though the car may have been in a front end collision because the fenders look to be new, along with the headlight buckets, and a painted grill. Also if you guys can tell me by those pics does the passengers side tire look as though it is closer to the front of the car than the drivers, my friend suspects a rear collision but I cannot find any seems in the mess of bondo that would suggest so.

I dont think I will be drifting the old datsun, dont wanna mess it up anymore than it already is.

I am understand the wiring the car will take, and on my old race cars the MS standalone really cleaned up alot of things but getting rid of alot of the useless extras that the government had installed. But for now mounting the stock ECU under the dash, or possibly extending the harness a couple of feet would allow it to be mounted behind the passenger seat. As far as the cleaning it has already started, hopefully it will turn out as well as miata, the same goes for the valve cover. I am going to go satin on the bay instead of matching it to w/e the body color is because I think it looks better, that and my 2 color choices are white or blue, and I hate cleaning a white engine bay :banghead: Sorry about the dust in the same hour or so we went on a spirited drive through the mountians and it was kinda dusty.

well here is the progress I have made today, I have got the interior stripped as best I could, left the drivers seat, and dash and column so I can still move it. Got some info on a 280zxt that is supposed to run so I am going to try and pick it up and go ahead and do the turbo swap instead of waiting for a bit, everything I need is there for it so it should take a day or so to get it done.

yep build date of 11 70, number 13724

I actually have the fuse cover and stuff, we took it off to check everything out before we put the battery in. I am not going to keep the BS interior, it looks ok in the pics but the majority of it is pretty rotted, and or painted black in the back for some reason. Trust me I am not getting rid of this car, I have been looking for far to long to let it go, it has a nice little pace in a storage unit that I can work on it in, and not work on it in and keep it out of the weather.

OK so if you read my last thread I mentioned I bought a z without a job and now work at wal-mart making what normal people make. With that said I took on a challenge, the Zs 40th anniversary which is in a couple of months and this thread is to help me get through it, and actually drive this $800 gem to Nashville for the big ole party. A little background story on how I got this jewel baby. When I was 16 I owned a white 71 240z, and as many of us were I was a dumbass and crushed the car. Yes CRUSHED a Z because I could not get it running and money was really tight and I thought that if I could get out of it at the crusher what I had in it I would be good. Then I started on the whole RX-7 kick and build a couple of cars and the like, and wrecked some good ones to, but in the back of my head I still wanted that old z back, and by the time I was 18 the search was really on for the right car at the right price, I passed on a couple of questionable cars, then money got tight again so I still looked but tried to trade my soul off for one. Fast forward to last Dec. Business was looking on the up and up and all so I started looking hardcore, then it happened my dealership had closed down and I was out of work but I still had plenty of play money saved back so I continued looking. Then the day came and I finally found one that I wanted, it needed pans and rockers and the motor was making some noise, but at the price of $2000 on the east coast for a z I was ready to jump in. Me and my friend are making arrangements to go pick up said car that was about 400 miles away one way and I get a phone call from a friend of mine attending Marshall University in Huntington WV and he tells me he passed a solid looking z but couldn't see if it was 240, 260, 280, or a ZX sitting behind a garage beside the river, I became ecstatic and we drove there just as fast as we could to look at something that may be a total waste of time. We get to Huntington and start looking for the place my friend described, and behind about 40 garages with nothing to be found. Then as we were about to call him back a primer grey thing with some round lights was sitting up in the air on a mound of dirt. Have you ever seen a 3/4ton ford drift a u-turn at a stop light and lay the black smoke, and tire smoke so bad you couldn't see a Ponderosa, well if you had been at that light when I saw that car you would have. We pull into the parking lot of what seems to be a antique car dealership and as fast as I could get the door opened on that POS I call a truck I was in the door playing 20 questions with whoever happened to be front of me or in shouting distance. They say it was F/S but it was not theirs, a friend of a friend had left it there and the car had been sitting for 9 months in that spot. I said that I didn't care and that I am very interested in the car, and I havn't even looked it yet. My buddy morgan finally makes it in the door and calms me down and says I should actually look at it before jumping in, what the hell does he know anyway right. We walk out side and there is about 8in of snow on the ground. And there it sits, the ground around the tires had eroded away and the car sat on a mound of dirt maybe 10ft from the rivers edge. We start to look over the car top to bottom, no exhaust, brakes are iffy, rockers are bad, tires dry rotted, and rear quarters are filled to the brim of bondo, and the doors are in need of replacing. We walk back inside and ask the price and the gentleman say $1000, and out of sheer hope I cut the price in half, and list off my reasons. We bartered for about 5mins when we both agreed upon $800 and I pick it up. Gladly accept and tell them I will be back in the morning to pick it up as soon as they open. The next day we gather up some tools a tow dolly, hoping the car will make it in one piece back to the house, and an extra set of hands. WE arrive at the dealership and hand over $800 on a car I am not even sure that runs, or will move under it own power and get to work. After alot of tinkering we notice that we cannot get any fuel from the tank so I crawl up under the car to investigate. To my disbelief a spark plug was inserted into the return line, and that the main supply which had been replaced with rubber was pinched on the ground, so we decide to start the car off of some extra air line I happen to have in my truck and a 5 gallon gas can, around mins go by and it is looking grim as the car is not hitting. I drive the diesel around to where the z is and pray that I do not get stuck as the snow is melting and the ground is getting soft. We hook the jumpers to the tired battery and let it sit for a min and try again and she hit, and stayed running. We checked the oil pressure and prayed that the gauges in the car were right, put some air in the tires and tried to move, and then no clutch, pop up the inspection cover and notice that there is no fluid in the reservoir put some in but cant bleed it, but luckly enough I had some pedal just off that. Pulled the car from it's resting place and pulled into the parking lot, and a very surprised looking PO stepped out and could not believe that we got it running. Hell it ran so well that if It had brakes I would have drove it home. Loaded the car up and brought her home. And this is what she looks like. And yes that drivers window is made of plexi. So now the fun begins, I have already fixed a major grounding issue, you know not having a ground at all. I am also getting ready to pull the tired old L24 and 4spd and put it away in storage because I sourced an entire 280zx that runs for $300 that has a good l28 swap that I am going rebuild to stock specs for now, and disc brake swap, and a couple other things, I am also looking for an l28et block so I can build my 3.1l tt motor throughout the next few years. Right now I am only worried about one thing, July 28th. That is the day the car needs to be on it's way to TN for the anniversary, that means new quarters, rockers exhaust, brakes, inspection, tags, tires, motor rebuild and alot of praying I can get it done. The real question is can I do it while still paying what bills I do have, and sustaining myself on a normal budget, this should be fun.

Alright we couldn't get it started so we ran the self diagnostic and this is what it showed: 11- CAS 12- MAF 13- ChTS 23- TPS which we tried to unplug 31 - AC/ Load (driver side of manifold) 41 Fuel Temp Sensor Now what we cant figure out is that the distributor was just replaced in July so why is it saying that the CAS is bad? Ive also read that if it displays both CAS and MAF then the CAS is the cuplret so once again its throwing me off there too. CHTS the wiring is bad. WE are completely at a loss of what to do.

Blue/yellow spark, plugs dont seem to be fouled ill check again right now, fuel pressure is good. THe cold start enrichment thing I have not heard of, where do I check this, I looked in the FSM and didnt see it but maybe I missed it somewhere.

Posting this for a friend specs 1986 fresh rebuild all stock removed the EGR doulbe and triple checked the timing and also changed the maf the thing that is bugging us is that it has to be something stupid simple because the problem seems to keep changing. The night that we put the motor in it started right up first crank but would not rev over 2k, i figured it was because we did not have the MAF piping all hooked up and we also adjusted the timing a bit with the same effect, so hooked all the piping up and still the same thing, so it lead us to believe that it was the MAF. We changed it out with a known good with the same result so we changed it back and now we have a no start situation with either MAF. Checked and replaced the wiring to the CHTS because we found that it was broken, still no start. No know that we are getting fuel and spark at the plugs, but it doesnt seem to be hitting but one or two times, then nothing for a few cranks then one or two times again. At this point and time my friend is highly pissed because his car will not run, which is understandable, but now I am starting to get pissed because for a week now all we can do is get it to spit a couple of times and have run out of ideas. This is what all else we have tried Unplugging the MAF to get it to start, nothing Unplugging the ALT signal wire because we have heard of stories of no starts with a bad alt, should we try unplugging the actual wire on the back as well? Resetting the ECU, nothing starting fluid, it started occasionally but not everytime. Right now the way the dizzy is set it actually slows the cranking down like it is hitting too soon and we have tried it in other positions with no avail just better cranking.

1985 RX-7 GSL-SE. End of discussion.

still not bad though I am pulling double duty on this topic, on here and on RX7club heres a link if you all wanna read up on anything i havnt said here. I have the sme name on here as there os yeah Im easy to find. http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=519232

Then you got me there. I know some but im no expert and im only 20 only so much I am aloud to know:shifty:

I would be pretty sure that the dyno run was for emissions. I would also like to comliment your cars in your sig. I owned a GTS a while back, and a 240z. Trying to get both of them back now.

There may be at least 5 stepping up to the plate, from what I have heard. J-garage may take a swing at it. But seeing how motorex only crash tested the r33 they will be hard pressed to seel. Every car that is imported must be crash test(at least 3 times) so that means 3 cars just for the crash, then 2 other cars have to go through emissions testing. And then a full report must be issued stating all of the results, and also stating what and why the car is being imported for. If it is for street use then they must go through even more emissions and the usual emsion equipent must be equiped. Also bumper supports, door supports, nd other things must be equipped to each car depending on the crash testing. now if it was just for race use, the process becomes a lil less complicated. The cars are only alowed on the track, and from what I understand, only allowed inside the country for a set amount of time. If I understood corectly, if the car is sold off then it is alowed to stay in the country for some reason. The list of things go on and on, but to many people they dont really care they just want the car, just to say yeah Ive got that. But the way motorex had priced there cars they were making a 200% profit off of every one they sold. Seeing how most Japanese cars have to go through a big test every three years I believe most owners just sell of the car and buy a newer one. So all the GTRs they are picking up are only like 20k USD, and seeing how the R34 was selling for like 90k you do the math. I forsee prices really being cut almost in half now because there is no monopoly. This will open up the market and we will be seeing more and more of them, and I am afraid alot more of them wrecked because some snot nosed teenager will have his mommy and daddy buy it for him. Oh dear lets just hope it dosnt end up like the AE86 thing, 10k for a stocker is just rediculous. Damn Initial D tax, drives me crazy.

Ah so this is why non of yoshis(of J-garage) skylines are being converted. I talk to him quite often about the subject of importing, and he always said that what motorex is pricing there cars at is just way way to much. Hopefully now things will change. BTW I am not one of these GTR horndogs. Just a guiy that has respect for a good car.

Hmm I thought they went until 02 in japan. Oh well like I said not to good with FDs.

well the FD(the RX-7 pictured) started production in 1993 (also the last fc verts were sold this year as overflow) and ended in 2002(in japan, went less here not sure of year). Hardly anyone sees one around here and I was lucky to own a shell a while back. Main probelms with this car was the stock twin setup as mentioned earlier, works good when it works. Most people will tell you that dropping a V8 in there is crude(it isnt) heavier(notmuch) and wil l dramatically affect the handling(wont). Its a tried and true swap. Please read up on the posted links for more info on this swap if you want. http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=449950 http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=68640 http://www.team140.com/faq/faq.php and for just wanting to ee what other owners are doing. http://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=16 And here are some basic terms used with the cars 1st gen though 3rd gen. Hope this helps some. And yes its not a typo the 2nd gen(fc) did have a type of a wheel steering(passive) AAS = Auto Adjusting suspension ACV = Air Control Valve AFM = Air Flow Meter (also see MAF) A-spec = North American Spec ATF = Automatic transmission fluid Auto = Automatic transmission AWS = Accelerated Warm-Up System BAC = Bypass Air Control CAS = Crank Angle Sensor CPU = Central Processing Unit (the Body computer) DEI = Dynamic Effect Intake (found on 84 and later 13B engines) DMM = Digital Multi-Meter (required for most electrical testing on cars) DTSS = Dynamic tracking suspension system (found on all 2nd gen RX-7s) ECU = Emissions Control Unit (also called Engine Control unit) EFI = Electronic Fuel Injection EGI = Electronic Gasoline Injection EMS = Engine Management System (aftermarket engine computer) FB = 1st gen RX-7 81-85 production FC = 2nd gen RX-7 86-92 production FC3C = 2nd gen RX-7 convertible FC3S = 2nd gen RX-7 Coupe FCD = Fuel Cut defender (aftermarket- used only on Turbos with modifed exhaust and stock ECU) FD = 3rd gen RX-7 FI = Fuel Injection FMIC = Front Mount Intercooler GS = Sporty Model (in CAN) GT = Sporty Model with Turbo GT Limited = fully loaded every option turbo model. GTU = Sporty model in 88, base model in 89-90 (in USA) GTUs = Sporty model in 89-90 (in USA) GX = Luxury Coupe model (in CAN) GXL = Top line Luxury non turbo model J-Spec = Japanese/NZ/AUS spec model LSD = Limited Slip Differential (sometimes incorrectly called Posi or Positraction which is GM's in-house brand name for their Limited Slip Differential) MAF = Mass Air Flow sensor MOP = Metering Oil Pump. Oil Metering Pump as called in the service manual. (also see OMP) NA = 1st gen Miata NA = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo N/A = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo NB = 2nd gen Miata OE = Original Equipment OEM = Original Equipment Manufacture OMP = Oil Metering pump PD = Pulsation Dampener PS = Power steering PW = Power windows SA = 1st gen RX-7 79-80 production Savanna = The name the 1st and 2nd gen RX-7 was sold under in Japan. SE = Base model in the USA in 87.5-88 Series 1 / S1 = 1979-1980 RX-7 models Series 2 / S2 = 1981-1983 RX-7 models Series 3 / S3 = 1984-1985 RX-7 models Series 4 / S4 = 1986-1988 RX-7 models Series 5 / S5 = 1989-1992 RX-7 models Series 6 / S6 = 1992-1995 RX-7 models Sport = 86-87 Sporty model (in USA also see GS) TB = Throttle Body TBM = Throttle body modification TID = Turbo Intake Duct TMIC = Top Mount InterCooler (factory style) TPS = Throttle position sensor TII = Turbo model (does not mean twin turbo) T2 = Turbo model (does not mean twin turbo) VDI = Variable Dynamic Intake WOT = Wide Open Throttle 6PI = 6 Port Induction the auxiliary ports, or the not so correct term - 5th/6th ports 13B = Normally aspirated/ Non turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine. 13BT = Turbo charged, 2 rotor, rotary engine 13B-RE = J-spec Cosmo twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine. 13B-REW = FD twin turbo, 2 rotor, rotary engine. 20B = J-spec Cosmo three rotor, rotary engine