threeZguy

I'm putting this info out for a friend of mine who sells Revolution Wheels. S & S Performance Motorsport is bringing in 15x7 classic 5 spoke wheels in 3 colors. Black/crome, Gunmetal/crome, Silver/crome. They also have 4 spokes and forged modular wheels as well. You can check them out if your interested at http://revolutionwheels.net/ If you have any questions, you can email or call the number listed on the website. ......Chris

I have an open center lift, which is great for doing everything. It sits about 3" off the floor when it is closed. Was nice being able to sit down while changing out the clutch and flywheel. Not sure what they go for now, paid $2000 delivered about 5 years ago. Best 2 grand I ever spent. http://www.bendpak.com/product_info.isg?products_id=764 Chris

Last few months I have been doing various upgrades to my car. (84 300zxt) Including a new amp, speakers and sub. I am getting feedback (loud pop) when I turn on/off the tuner and whenever I change functions on the tuner. I also get the the same popping noise when I use the headlights, turn signal, and so on. The only difference from how everything was wired up before, is running a ground from battery to a "T" , one side goes to a dist. block, the other to the amp. I tried ground to the chassis like the old amp was, still get the popping. Power and ground are both 4 guage wire.(Phoenix) Also the speakers wire go directly in the new amp and screwed down instead of having connectors on them like the old amp. Iv'e checked that RCA cables from the tuner and speaker wires are not near any power or ground wires. Old system: Pioneer 6200 tuner Boss 4 ch amp 4 Kappa 6.5 3-way Bazooka 8" sub New system: Pioneer 6200 tuner Soundstream Van Gogh VGA 500 4 ch amp Kappa 6.5 components up front Kappa 6.5 3-way in the rear 10" Basslink sub Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.......Chris

I live about 1/2 mile from Louis Joliet Mall, just past Canton Farm down Essington Rd. Let me know when your in the area next time. I'd really like to see your car in person. Chris

Thought this might be usefull if your looking for 100+ octane in the Chicago area. http://www.cruisintigersgto.com/for_members_fuel_finder.htm Chris

If you go to z31.com, click on Message board, click on the Search function right above the posts, put in IC or intercooler. There is plenty of info and pics on the site about IC's. Don't use the Power search, or the search function under the banner though, they don't work to well. Chris

This is the lift I have. http://www.bendpak.com/product_info.isg?products_id=764 Been using it about 3 years with no problems. At the time it was $2000 delivered. Uses ATF fluid also.........chris

Hi all, doing some remodeling at home, and decided to get a projector. I'm planning on putting it in the ceiling on a pulll down type mount. My dilema is trying to come up with something that would allow the "door" to come down and stay open, plus retract up and stay closed under its own power. I was first thinking about using drawer sliders, one mounted on each corner of my base that the projector will sit on, mount other end in the joists. I was looking at some of the "self closing" ones, but not sure if they will work in a vertical position. Any ideas on this, or something else out there that I might look into. thanks.........chris

Purchased a 77' 280 with triple SK Racing carbs. Will be using car mostly for autocrossing, some street. Right now it just has the K&N filters on them. thanks.......chris

I was looking for turbo stuff and came across this site, may be of some help. http://www.jgstools.com/turbo/

Lockjaw or Speeder, do you know what psi the WG opens at, and how high it will go? Looks like I need a dual port to get to my 20 psi goal. Thanks.......chris

I just used a SAWZALL. You can probably rent one for a few bucks if ya didn't want to buy one. But they are really versatile for cutting alot of things. .......chris

I purchased some 3 pc. wheels for my 84 300zxt from Compomotive about 2 1/2 years ago at about $400 a piece. The wheels came within a moderate time, but one of the caps had a pock mark, no allen wrench for the cap and NO LUG NUTS!! Called Brian, who I had placed order with and been talking to, said he would send out new cap, wrench and lug nuts Fedex the next day. After waiting a week 1/2, broke down and bought lug nuts myself. Meanwhile, talking with Brian, he's making excuses and says they went out USPS. Finally received lug nuts after 4 WEEKS, no wrench or cap tho. I sent an email to the UK office about their US distributor, no response. I didn't use their stickers for the caps, and have refused to tell anyone where I got the wheels from so no other business would be generated from me. On the other hand, I had Discount Tire get me some HRE's for my 80zx, and was treated better and saved a little money going thru them. I need some new rims for the 77' now, and will check with Discount Tire before I order some.........chris

I'm running SS lines on my 84zxt, plan to do the same to my 77' and I'm having an L6 being built that will be tapped to run SS lines for everything. I picked up just about all my fittings and lines from Ebay. Only bought brand new on both, cost about half of what Summit and Jegs charge. For the fuel rails, I just use the end covers on the hose. Russel has some hard line adapters to AN, but they are for 3/8 or 1/2 hard line. They use a crimp(compression ring), and are to big for the 5/16 hard lines. I've been running them for about 9 months with no problems. The 84' is my daily driver, all year round. .....chris

I can see why all the top speeds are estimated, they have to try and find fuel tank truck that can go 300 mph also. Don't think 3 gallons of gas is gonna get that thing very far.

I have and 84AE, T3/T4(60 AR. P-Trim) - 14 PSI , big Spearco, 3" turbo back SS exhaust, HKS SSBV,LSD, Corbeau seats, 6 pt's, SDS EIC to be istalled 20+ PSI then. Wutcha runnin. .....chris

Thanks Len, I'll give it try and let ya know what happens. I've been following Tech edge stuff for over a year, was even on their waiting list when they stopped production last May. Sent me an email when they started up again in August, but decided to hold off. Think I may go for the 1.5 unit for my 80'zx when its done.(this will be my Vette,Viper eater) Since my 84' is my daily driver, just wanted a system to get me in the "safe" range for everyday driving. Thats why the Dawes looked good. After I install the SDS, I'll be finished with going for more power on it. I also need to get my 77' finished so I can do some autocrossing in this summer. So many mouths to feed. (not including the wife and kids) ....chris

Len Did ya get the A/F for the Shadow, or is the O2 for the Shadow. I have mine grounded to a distribution block from the battery I ran into the cockpit. I will try directly to the battery like they suggest. I haven't had any detonation yet, that I'm aware of. No dyno yet, I was planning on that after I put the SDS in, but I may have just have "old" injectors, car has 170,000 miles on it. I have an extra "almost" new set of injectors that I may put in once I get the exhaust smell out of my 77' so I have something else to drive. Hate to keep driving the Suburban. (wife doesn't like me taking her "car" all the time) I image I've been pushing injectors a bit hard tho and that could be part of the problem I'm having now.(I've hit 90-100 psi myself while setting it up.) I also replaced my fpr, it was old any ways, but that wasn't the problem either. Whats really bugging me now is that the problem started after I did a bunch of things.(new clutch, A/F meter, put pos. & neg. distribution blocks in cockpit, few other things) Funny thing is the car seems to run okay when its dry and 30 degrees or below outside now, really acts up when its wet and warmer. Thats why I think I may an have an electrical issue. I really need to pull the plugs and see what they look like. But on the 84 300's, takes over 1 1/2 hours and have to take half of the top of the engine off to get to them. The temps here are supposed to be a little warmer next few days, so I'll try then. ......chris

Len I didn't have an A/F guage at the time. I have a Dawes now, but having some problems getting to work right. I think my voltage is dropping to low for the gauge to read right, or I have a wiring issue.(not grounded correctly)I needed the Pierburg to get above 10 psi. I was definitely maxing out the stock pump. FSM=factory service manual, which said that max fuel pressure was 65-70 psi for stock pump. The SDS EIC I bought is 2 480cc injectors and a controller that is good for an extra 160 hp up to 22 psi. I plan on running about 20 psi when I get it in. I'm not sure if I'll need the RRFPR once the EIC is installed, as the extra injectors should solve my fuel problem. We'll see. You can check it out. SDS EIC .....chris

Len When I first installed the T3/T4(.63 AR turbine .60 AR comp. P trim wheel, by the way) there was a definite improvement from 10 psi with stock turbo to 10 psi with the T3/T4 at 65 psi. I couldn't turn the RRFPR past that. So I called Corky Bell(since these are Cartech units) and he said I was maxing out the stock fuel pump.(FSM verified this) So I put an inline Pierburg fuel pump in and was able to bury my guage which goes to 100 psi.(not on purpose tho)At this point I was only able to get 14 psi boost before I started feeling the "surging" effect, even though I could get the fuel pressure above 80 psi, which I figured was my stock injectors maxing out. I ran like this for while till I starting having some problems with erratic idling and "missing" when at cruising speeds. Since it had been a while that a tuneup was done, thru in some new plugs(found some Denso Iridiums for $30 on Ebay) cap & rotor. First time I took it out I hit 15 psi boost with no surging, spooled alot quicker too. So now I think that plugs were holding me back on raising boost, and not fuel. During the interm I had purchased a SDS EIC to add more fuel.(still havn't installed till I get the idle & missing issue fixed)I havn't really had a chance to experiment if I can get higher than 15 psi with the stock injectors tho.(have 2 speeding tickets in 11 months, can't afford to get another one, at least for 1 more month) Funny thing is at WOT car has no problems. Plz excuse my babbling, hope this answered your questions. If not, let me know and I'll try not to be so long winded next time. .........chris

Oh yeah, one more thing. You have to have a fuel pressure gauge to able to tune it. Of course MSA didn't mention this when I spoke with them. I ended up getting the electric Auto Meter one that mounts in the the cockpit. $189.00(ouch), but I didn't want any fuel lines coming into the cockpit. Also I had to get an extra inline fuel pump, cuz the stock one only is good up to 65 psi, and the RRFPR is a 4:1, and I needed about 80 psi fp to get up the 14 psi I wanted. I've been running it for almost a year now with no problems. Hope this helps. ........chris

I put one on my 84t that has a T3/T4 cuz I was running out of fuel at about 9-10 psi with the stock injectors. With the RRFPR I am able to take it up to 13-14 psi now. Have to be careful when setting it up tho, I was able to get over 100 psi fuel pressure with it. This is on a stock motor. ......chris

I am currently running Dexron in my 84T. Ran gear oil 1st for about year, then switched to Redline for about a year. Out of the 3, I prefer the Dexron, cheaper on the wallet also. just my two cents. .......chris

take a look here, Smoothline. I spoke with someone about a year ago, and the prices were reasonable. I'm thinking of their fenders and hood, with the MS body kit for my 280. ........chris

Welcome to the (ZX) club, not enough of us it seems. Since this is your 1st Z, may I suggest that before you start building up the engine, you make sure the suspension,steering and brakes are up to the task. It's no fun going fast if ya can't turn or stop when ya need to. I have an 80'ZX in my harem also, which is going thru a "performance restoration" at this time. Like all the other Z's I've owned, the first thing I did was to check(and replace if needed) tie rods,ball joints, springs, shocks,(struts) and brake components. After that you can start on the motor. The best place to start is looking thru the pages in here.(L6 perfomance) It depends on if your going to want a turbo at some point, or stay with an "all motor" setup. These pages should help give you an idea which way you want to pursue, and what it will cost to get there. ....chris